Mazda 6 Forums banner

61 - 77 of 77 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
You want to get the most out of your car in every way possible...

Follow the manual. It's why they give you one.

For those that believe that any of us on this forum and I mean ANY of us know more than Mazda, you know, the folks that built our car, you're fooling yourself.
If I may ask, are you saying that I should not change my fluid for the transmission? If I remember it correctly, there is no indication of the interval when to change it. At least, in the page summary of PMS schedule.

Again if my interpretation is correct, then that means I don't have to change the fluid for its entire life.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
8,397 Posts
IMHO 50k miles is a good change interval for both MTX and ATX boxes.
/thread

And if anyone really thinks that transmission fluid is supposed to last the life of the transmission...

Well, you're right.

I hope you also enjoy rebuilding transmissions in your free time, or shelling out $3-5K for someone else to do it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
/thread

And if anyone really thinks that transmission fluid is supposed to last the life of the transmission...

Well, you're right.

I hope you also enjoy rebuilding transmissions in your free time, or shelling out $3-5K for someone else to do it...
I plan to replace the oil at 80,000 km, is that good enough? I'm running 30,000 km at the moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
603 Posts
I plan to replace the oil at 80,000 km, is that good enough? I'm running 30,000 km at the moment.


I would think that’s good, that’s roughly 50,000 miles or rather just under 50,000 miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
679 Posts
Too many shade tree mechanics.

I'll stick with the service manual.

Too bad there's no way to track those that do and those that don't attempt changing the fluid on their ATX's. I'd be willing to bet the ones changing will have more problems than those who don't and save themselves time and money along the way.

Talking the newer trans/following the manual.

At the end of the day it's your time and money and doing what you think is best will probably help you sleep better a night. Can't argue with that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Go talk to any pro mechanic that routinely works on cars with over 100,000 miles and ask their opinion. The manufacturer and dealer mechanics don't care since 100,000 is considered "life" since most rubes buy a new car every few years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,254 Posts
Guy appears to know what he's doing. Also find it interesting how "clean" the tranny was for 90k. Said it was his wife's car, so maybe not abused.

FWIW and in the spirit of additional datapoints and education.


Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
679 Posts
^^ Any and all points are good points. ^^

One of my very good buds has his own indy shop. He's been doing this his whole life and is def old school. Until I recently sold my transportation business he did all the maintenance. The 15 passenger Ford E350's had their trans flushed at 30K unless they ran a little over. I doubt none ever saw past 35K miles without being flushed. When it came to the fleet I was a maintenance fanatic.

The one thing he will admit to as hard as it may be is these newer tranny's AND fluids are far beyond what we've ever known or had in the past.

Kinda like comparing you first pager to your new smart phone.

I doubt seriously we'll still be driving this car when it hits 100K but if we do I know I won't be doing any fluid changes on the trans. At 100K I would probably consider servicing but if it doesn't need it then why?

Does anyone know when Mazda went to, started this lifetime fill? When did the maint. change from flushing every 30K (or whatever they suggested)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
I would think that’s good, that’s roughly 50,000 miles or rather just under 50,000 miles


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
One of the Mazda mechanics recommended that I replace the transmission fluid, unless I'll be selling the car after 5 years. However, I plan to keep the car for 20 years, just like our CR-V 98.


I know that without data, the mechanic's​ recommendation is just another opinion.

I also plan to have an oil test. The problem is, I don't know where it can be done in our place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,656 Posts
Guy appears to know what he's doing. Also find it interesting how "clean" the tranny was for 90k. Said it was his wife's car, so maybe not abused.

FWIW and in the spirit of additional datapoints and education.

https://youtu.be/WBZ1v7FPknI
It's obvious from the drained fluid's color that it was well beyond where it should have been changed.

It didn't look *that* much cleaner internally than my '02 Suburban -- which I did last summer, with ~60k miles on the fluid. The inside of the filter would have been interesting, had he cut it open. Oh, and yeah, there's a torque spec on the filter attaching bolts and he definitely should have looked it up, along with the valve body bolts. I don't know if these gearboxes have a habit of the valve body bolts loosening up over time but it's a very common problem in ATXs and retorquing them when the pan is off is a very good idea because if they do loosen up that will result in bypass, low line pressure and ultimately destroyed clutches. You *cannot* guess, however -- either stripping the body of the transmission or distorting the valve body is a great way to really screw things up.

In addition he mentioned that it idled "low" when in gear after he changed the fluid -- which also strongly implies that the fluid was pretty badly degraded.

If anything this showed the wisdom of a ~50k mile interval -- assuming you'd like to keep the vehicle beyond 100k miles and not wind up buying a transmission, that is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
It's obvious from the drained fluid's color that it was well beyond where it should have been changed....

...In addition he mentioned that it idled "low" when in gear after he changed the fluid -- which also strongly implies that the fluid was pretty badly degraded.
Neither of these items have occurred when I've serviced my A/T's (at 50,000 or less miles) and particularly the latter occurance of a reduced idle, which seems to me to be a pretty serious matter. Funny how changing the ATF would appear to have caused this change. Fluid properties, then, did change significantly with the fresh fluid.... and that was with no more than 3/8ths of the fluid volume having been refreshed (no torque converter drain plug). Draw your own conclusions...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
You want to get the most out of your car in every way possible...

Follow the manual. It's why they give you one.

For those that believe that any of us on this forum and I mean ANY of us know more than Mazda, you know, the folks that built our car, you're fooling yourself.
Well yes, and that's my doubt. The manual does not say that transmission fluid needs change, but it doesn't also explicitly say that it doesn't need change either! It seems that only some mazda dealers website are referring to some Mazda publication that you don't need to replace the fluid only for the skyactive cars (since 2014?). I do not know if it's actually Mazda's way to attract new customers! The other doubt is the definition of "lifetime", I thought was clear enough for me, but could be a fine print if it's just 60K

I just read the link you shared @drock666 and notice where it says the fluid doesn't need changed unless a major component or (my favorite part) when the entire transmission needs replaced keep in mind that a fluid change is significantly cheaper than a transmission and changing the fluid will make it last MUCH longer
Well, that really means that Mazda saying you dont need to change in your lifetime, unless obviously the transmission is overhauled.

Neither of these items have occurred when I've serviced my A/T's (at 50,000 or less miles) and particularly the latter occurance of a reduced idle, which seems to me to be a pretty serious matter. Funny how changing the ATF would appear to have caused this change. Fluid properties, then, did change significantly with the fresh fluid.... and that was with no more than 3/8ths of the fluid volume having been refreshed (no torque converter drain plug). Draw your own conclusions...

It's little over $200 to change the fluid, and I guess mostly anyone would just get it done based on "conventional wisdom" (right or wrong) and "fear" (valid or invalid)... but the real issue is that all the Mazda dealers do the flush, do not do the drain. ... I'm in St. Louis, MO and 3 dealers I called here said they do the flush and do not do the drain... also it's not practical to drain as it needs multiple sittings to do that.. the manufacturers have designed the system that way(!). So the real issue is that EVEN if want to replace the fluid, it would be flushed by the dealer and it could be (a) not as effective (b) worse?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
Ticker, above, indicated why flushing is bad business (cleanliness). Cleanliness is of paramount importance with ATX's. Some of my learned brothers might say that is why you shouldn't change the ATF... and I say, no, Do It, but do it right, with the pan-drop method! That said, it's a PITA to level the car, drop the pan, pull off the lower part of the airbox, move very quickly due to rapidly increasing temps... getting to above the req'd ATF level check temp, etc. I suspect for these reasons dealerships look to the easiest / least of a PITA method. It's not the best method. In fact I believe many OEM's expressly do not want to have you flush your transmission. Best I can say is do the pan-drop yourself if you are handy (and observe careful cleanliness methodologies) or go to an independent (trans shop?) you trust, or pay by the hour at a Mazda dealearship and insist they use the drop-the-pan method (i.e. to drop both the ATF and the transmission filter).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,656 Posts
If you change the fluid (with a flush or whatever) and do NOT drop the pan then you can't change the filter. ALL filters will eventually load up with the stuff they're intended to filter out and when they do the flow drops -- there's an engineered amount that's ok, but beyond that it definitely is not and WILL be trouble.

Not only does the fluid flow provide the pressure to engage the clutches but it also provides the cooling. Lack of either is very bad. You wouldn't change your engine oil without the filter, so..... yeah.

(Now granted, engine oil gets a LOT more gunk in it than transmission oil but the point is the same.)

I wouldn't use a flush machine for the simple reason that you have no way to clean the machine adequately after use -- and it doesn't take much foreign "stuff" at all (ESPECIALLY some incompatible fluid of ANY sort) to destroy the gearbox. Since there's no drain bolt in the torque converter housing you're stuck with the fact that you can only get about half (or less) of the fluid out draining from the bottom -- but half is better than none, and you can change the filter. If you want to you could change the filter, then do two or three fluid changes off the drain bolt after a few minutes of running, which would get you much more-complete turnover but at very significant cost for the fluid consumed in doing so.
 
61 - 77 of 77 Posts
About this Discussion
76 Replies
28 Participants
tickerguy
Mazda 6 Forums
Mazda6club.com is a forum dedicated to the Mazda6 / Atenza. Come and discuss reliability, performance, modifications, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top