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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How to Change Automatic Transmission Fluid in a Mazda6 | eHow.com

Basically, pump the trans fluid out of the hose going to the radiator getting about 80% of the fluid then refill, instead of just D&R and only getting 1/3 of the fluid. Ignore the filter portion as I understand that the 4cyl doesn't have a filter in the pan.

I've seen this method referenced for other vehicles but have seen no mention of it here at M6C. Seems this would be better than just doing a D&R to get more of the fluid without shelling out $150, for a shop to do it. Has anyone tried this?
 

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I'm trying to imagine how this would be more effective than just draining the pan. Won't the fluid stop pumping when the pan is empty and the pump loses prime? It seems like the valve body, torque converter, etc. would still have a lot of fluid left in it after the pump loses prime. Am I missing something? Are you planning on pouring in fluid while the old fluid is being pumped out the cooling line?
 

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I think you are better to just connect other hose to big jar witn new ATF -I do not think rate of puring in dipstick tube will be fast to keep demand. I did this to many trucks and get extra 2-3 qt of ATF. Having halper to turn car on/off helps to .
 

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I think you are better to just connect other hose to big jar witn new ATF -I do not think rate of puring in dipstick tube will be fast to keep demand. I did this to many trucks and get extra 2-3 qt of ATF. Having halper to turn car on/off helps to .

This sounds like an even better way to go to me.....

Lonesouth- any commentary? See any downside?

I would think that it would be better to just break one hose, determine which side has output, and which side sucks.
Then hook a discharge hose like the video shows to catch old oil, and then hook a hose leading to a reservoir with all the new oil to the other side of the same joint. Start engine, fill discharge container to @ 1 quart more than the capacity of the transaxle, and then stop engine, reconnect the hose, done.

Is there a reason not to do it that way? I'd like to avoid the compressed air step if possible. To me, that will over-fill the transaxle case. I'm not a mechanic, but am used to wrenching on diesels a little. I'm a boat captain.


Thanks, Target, about to crawl under the car...:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The only thing I would change on this, and bear in mind that I haven't flushed mine yet, is to somehow put the fluid going into a reservoir above the engine so that it will easily flow into the return line. It seems to me that the pump will not necessarily suck the fluid from the source, but rather, the pressure from the pump is what pushes the fluid back into the pan.
 

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Keep in mind that unless you pump in 100% new fluid for a rather long period of time, you're still left old fluid in the convertor. Unless you think you've got contaminated fluid, as in metal, you're just spending time on something that won't make *the* difference. It also won't flush all fluid if the car is just sitting idling in Park and is not taken through each of the gears.

It's understandable why people want to tell themselves they're 'flushing' the system, but it doesn't. Even shops with extractors designed for this process will tell you that it does not completely exchange the fluid. Drain what you can, put in a good quality fluid, and an in-line magnetic filter, and if you do a lot of stop & go, add a cooler.
 

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Snip!

is to somehow put the fluid going into a reservoir above the engine so that it will easily flow into the return line. It seems to me that the pump will not necessarily suck the fluid from the source, but rather, the pressure from the pump is what pushes the fluid back into the pan.
Thanks for the confirm, that was my intention to do as well, just failed to specify.

R,
Target
 

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Can you do the same thing with a 3L V6 '05 mazda6? I was told by the shop where I go to that certain ring from the drain pan/ plug has to be replaced when you open up the drain plug? Is that necessary? What could this ring be? Where can I get it?
 

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U can do a drain and fill with the V6. All that other stuff is too much for to little IMO. Darin and fill two or three times with in-line filter and cooler, call it a day. U don't have to replace the ring every time, but I would have one handy. I think its a 22mm. Redline FTW.
 

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The method described in the video works decently well. When I did it, I only ran the car for about 30-45 seconds at a time and I ran it through the gears to help get some of the fluid out of the torque converter. I measured what I was taking out (by filling empty quart bottles) and refilled the tranny with an equal amount before running it again. While I probably didn't get every last drop of old fluid, there was definitely a big difference between what I started with and what I finished with. BTW I used nearly 12 quarts in the process.
 

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If i was going to do it the way shown in the video, where it the easiest way to hook into that line on our cars? I have an '07 6s.

Thanks,
Jeff
 

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my 04 2.3 liter has a filter in the pan and no transmission cooler so how would i drain the torque converter? I'v heard of dilling a hold in the converter threading it and then pluging it any other way around that method?
 

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Keep in mind that unless you pump in 100% new fluid for a rather long period of time, you're still left old fluid in the convertor. Unless you think you've got contaminated fluid, as in metal, you're just spending time on something that won't make *the* difference. It also won't flush all fluid if the car is just sitting idling in Park and is not taken through each of the gears.

It's understandable why people want to tell themselves they're 'flushing' the system, but it doesn't. Even shops with extractors designed for this process will tell you that it does not completely exchange the fluid. Drain what you can, put in a good quality fluid, and an in-line magnetic filter, and if you do a lot of stop & go, add a cooler.
Listen to what this man has said people!!
 

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my 04 2.3 liter has a filter in the pan and no transmission cooler so how would i drain the torque converter? I'v heard of dilling a hold in the converter threading it and then pluging it any other way around that method?
That sounds like a bad idea. Drilling will produce large metal shavings that are being put right into the converter and there for into the trans oil. Now some of those shavings should come out with the oil that pours out after the hole has been drilled, but I sure would not risk some staying in because they will be magnetized from the drilling.
 

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i have a friend with a 2004 6s ATX that might need a flush. i was going to do it the way my wife's Honda manual says; drain, fill w/ est 3qts, drive around the block, drain, fill for 3 times.

which ATX fluid should he use? Redline fluid would be the most convenient since he work near Mustangs Unlimited, but which redline ATX fluid?
 

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correction, this man doesn't know he has the 6spd Auto lol. it was made late 04=2005 6s. i read somewhere that this trans use toyota fluid. for his hurting pockets, he'll try Castrol ATF.
 
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