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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I've never replaced OEM brakes on a Mazda before 90k miles and then only as a precaution. The only way they're swapping the wheels on your trade-in is if the used car sales manager wants to put them on his own car.
On my 2015 6 Touring, I had to replace the fronts after 35K. Pad material kept sticking to the rotors and causing pedal pulsing. Put ceramic pads on and never had a lick of problem since.
 

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The Mazda pads are ‘ceramic,’ according to the (very) limited info I can find.
 

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The Mazda pads are ‘ceramic,’ according to the (very) limited info I can find.
I was gonna say that too, almost all cars thes days have ceramic pads.

The "material" doesnt deposit onto the rotor like people think, The metal WARPS, period. You cannot weld ceramic and steel, period. The only reason youre not having issues is the new pads havent been bedded like the old ones. Rotors warp from improper braking techniques and lack of proper bedding during initial break in.
 

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BTW, the EBC website has a semi-tech article which says that ‘ceramic’ brake pads are merely non-metallic organic brake pads with some more ingredients. Another site claimed that there’s nothing ceramic in ‘ceramic’ brake pads, that’s its merely the addition of Kevlar that changes the name. I actually thought that was another EBC page, but maybe not.

Here’s that page:
 

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BTW, the EBC website has a semi-tech article which says that ‘ceramic’ brake pads are merely non-metallic organic brake pads with some more ingredients. Another site claimed that there’s nothing ceramic in ‘ceramic’ brake pads, that’s its merely the addition of Kevlar that changes the name. I actually thought that was another EBC page, but maybe not.

Here’s that page:
The pads i got last year are ceramic and the ones i have now have carbon fiber/kevlar added to it for more bite. Then you have carbon ceramic which usually go with ceramic rotors too, but major moolah.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Now that I've had the car for about 2wks and have a small road trip under the belt, I thought I'd give a good bad and different take on it:

Good - The infotainment has came a long way since my 2018 model. BT picks up almost immediately, whereas the 2018 would take up to 30sec to connect. Interior also seems slightly quieter than in my 6, though that just may be me. Definitely liking the extra cargo room with the seats down. Seats are mostly comfortable, especially the back. Even with being a CUV with a hatch, handles just as well as my Mazda 6 did. Took it for a thrashing on CA SR9 between Santa Cruz and Saratoga and never lost confidence in the turns even doing 10-15 over posted. No squealing, no bark, just dialed in response.

Bad - Horrendous blind spot when looking back. Adding to that, the left rear view mirror folds down when going in Reverse. I'm a trained medium duty truck driver and I rely on my mirrors for reverse, so this one irritates me. Equally irritating is that the P brake activates every time I shut off the car. Dealer says it's 'a safety feature' that cannot be disabled. Also wish the thigh bolstering was a little bit wider. Sometimes get fatigue in the hips after a long stint. Navigation is clunky when locating an address, especially with voice command. You find yourself repeating the option 2-3 times instead of simply being able to select it with the command knob.

Different - The LED turn signal actually fades out to mimic an old style incandescent turn signal. Guess people don't like the instant on/off? Also learned (being my first vehicle equipped with Bose) that the subwoofer doubles as the restraint for the spare tire.
 

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I was gonna say that too, almost all cars thes days have ceramic pads.

The "material" doesnt deposit onto the rotor like people think, The metal WARPS, period.
This is contrary to the majority of published literature. Generally the heating of pads cause a liquid lubrication film at the contact interface. This causes the deposition of material on the rotor surface. When the rotor is bedded it coats with an even layer and as a result, subsequent layers cannot adhere to self with the same degree and do not form "high-spots".
I have put rotors on the lathe that show variation on the contact surface but do not show the same variation when the run out is checked outside of the friction surface. This is very easy to check with two dial gauges, one on each side.

Additionally, if the rotors are not turned very well (± 0.05mm) the pad will contact the rotor very slightly as it rotates with the brakes off (try turning the rotors by hand) and deposit material on those areas excessively. By bedding, it reduces this variation by depositing more material in the lower areas and less on the higher spots. Of course the most important part about the bedding process is to not stop with the pad contacting the rotor hot, as it will leave extra material on the surface and hence the wobble. Also, If there is anything that contacts the brake surface (drop of oil for example) this will also affect the brake material deposition. On my road bike even a finger print will do this and it is super annoying.

I'm not saying they can't warp it is just that they rarely do. The few times I have seen them they show warping(thick spots) that follow the internal ventilation channels or have been rapidly quenched in water when glowing hot.
Remember that brakes in racing application routinely glow red hot.

I have seen variation even on new rotors. How many of us thoroughly wire wheel the rotor mating surfaces? How many index the rotors when installing them?

Your results may be different but this is what I seen over the decades. Next time you have wobbly disks machined ask the machinist to dial both sides to see if it is actually bent metal. Tell them you are trying to chase down a problem, they are usually happy to do it.
 

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The only wobbly discs ive had in decades are the ones that came on my 3 that were rusted beyond saving from sitting on the car lot not being driven till i bought it. Ill say this till im blue in the face, but rotors warp, mainly, from being driven badly (in addition to never being broken in properly). Quick stops from high speed and then holding the car still with them holds the heat in one area so it cools differently than the rest of the rotor. This will either kill the rotors straightness or glaze the pads.

The thing is, 90 some % of people just dont care to change their driving habits to compensate or improve either.

I could also be wrong, but its what ive seen and experienced.

Also, research paper or not, science dictates there is no constant and theories should always be subject to two things: Being proven wrong and/or edited.
 

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Equally irritating is that the P brake activates every time I shut off the car. Dealer says it's 'a safety feature' that cannot be disabled.
Why is that irritating? Why wouldn't you want the parking brake to engage when you turn off the car? Besides, it automatically releases itself.
 

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Why is that irritating? Why wouldn't you want the parking brake to engage when you turn off the car? Besides, it automatically releases itself.
Perhaps when he is at home, his garage is level and he wants it that way. He then cleans the car and he wants to wash the brakes that is not engaged.

I don't know if that makes any sense, but that came up with my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Why is that irritating? Why wouldn't you want the parking brake to engage when you turn off the car? Besides, it automatically releases itself.
Except it does NOT automatically release itself when I start the car and put it in gear. I have to manually release it every time. THAT's the annoying part because now I have to program my brain to disengage the parking brake after starting it. Sounds petty, but it's an annoyance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The only wobbly discs ive had in decades are the ones that came on my 3 that were rusted beyond saving from sitting on the car lot not being driven till i bought it. Ill say this till im blue in the face, but rotors warp, mainly, from being driven badly (in addition to never being broken in properly). Quick stops from high speed and then holding the car still with them holds the heat in one area so it cools differently than the rest of the rotor. This will either kill the rotors straightness or glaze the pads.

The thing is, 90 some % of people just dont care to change their driving habits to compensate or improve either.

I could also be wrong, but its what ive seen and experienced.

Also, research paper or not, science dictates there is no constant and theories should always be subject to two things: Being proven wrong and/or edited.
All I can say is that on my 2015 Mazda 6 there was notable residue on the front disc brakes and it developed a vibration after 28K miles. Never had that issue with my 2018 Mazda 6 and it was noted that my pads were in GOOD condition as of its 37.5K service with zero vibration. My driving habits did NOT change from one car to the next. In fact, since my 2015 was a manual I used my brakes LESS in the 2015 since I usually engine braked.
 

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The parking brake should automatically disengage if certain conditions are met: https://owners-manual.mazda.com/gen/en/cx-30/cx-30_8hq1ee19i/contents/05050107.html
It is mentioned that it is possible to cancel the automatic operation of the parking brake.

Going back, I've read somewhere that it is not recommended to allow the parking brake to disengage automatically. I have forgotten the details but it has something to do with dragging the brake pads or something else. In my 2017 Mazda 6, it will automatically disengage when I depress the accelerator.
 

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First off, I realize it's been a long time since I've posted here. The job transfer I took 2yrs ago has kept me going full steam and I really haven't done too much to the 6 except get the California black legacy plates for it. Which look great. However, now I find myself in a quandary. Two recent events have me contemplating selling the ol' 6 and moving on.

First, the news that the 6 is being discontinued in 2022. While I really hope that it's a 1yr absence and that they'll bring out the Gen 4 model sooner, I'm not holding my bets. Truth is, the sedan body style is quickly falling out of grace as people continue to embrace SUVs and CUVs. I'd love to be proven wrong on this, but I have a bad feeling 2021 will be the final year for the beloved 6.

Second, due to the semiconductor shortage, used car values have skyrocketed. Coupled with the aforementioned slow death of the sedan, right now I will get the best value for my car that I ever could if I sell or trade it in. I'm actually blue booking at $18,700 on trade with my mileage, which is pretty good for a 3yr old model. This is considering that 6mos ago I only blue booked $16,300 on trade. Waiting too long will mean the market will eventually normalize and I'll take a shellacking on value when I am ready to turn it in.

So these are my options that I am weighing:

1) Mazda CX-30: Yes, it's a CUV but it's lower to the ground. I realize it's also smaller. However, I think I can slide into a Premium model and get all the good stuff (without the turbo which I do NOT want) and pay considerably less on my monthly payment than I do now.
2) Toyota Mirai FCEV: I've always told myself that if a fuel cell vehicle became feasible that I would jump on it. The 2nd gen Mirai is actually quite a looker IMO and the incentives are strong ($15K in free fuel credits? I'm in!). As a bonus, a hydrogen refueling station is 1 exit down from me on my way to work. Only bad part is... once I leave the Bay Area there is no refueling. So I would be subject to renting a car whenever I want to take a long term trip.
3) Buick Regal X-Tour: At this point, I'd be looking at used but I've always wanted a sportback type model. Found a couple of low mileage examples in the area. Only concern is the turbo.
4) Take my chances: I could also just tell myself I'm overthinking things and keep the 6 in hopes that the Gen 4 does show up next year. It'll probably mean I'll lose some residual value by the.

What do you guys think? I have an appointment to test drive a CX-30 on Saturday.
Congrats on the CX30, it looks so much better in real and in my opinion much better looking than the CX3. I haven't posted much here in a while mainly because my Mazda6 is sitting in the garage collecting dust ever since the pandemic began. I have done <1.5k miles in over 18 months. I am at 59k miles in my 2016 M6 GT, and the itch has begun to buy something new. I love sedans and besides with my wife getting a new Santa Fe we dont need 2 suvs in the family. While shopping for her Santa Fe i got the opportunity to look at the KIA Stinger, the new K5, Hyundai Elantra N line and the Genesis G70. Love them or hate them but gotta give it to Hyundai/KIA for still believing in sedans when the entire industry has moved to SUVs/CUVs. I totally loved the Genesis G70, the 2022 is overstyled but elegant and the interiors looks a world apart from my mazda. I had the dealers run numbers for KIA Stinger GT, GT2 and the Genesis G70 and the best they were coming up with was <$1000 from sticker for the Genesis and $500 off the sticker for the Stinger ! Such is the crazy world we are living in that not just customers but corporate clients are picking up vehicles from the lot, including cars like Stinger which before the pandemic would sit on the dealer lot for 4 to 5 months.

Like others have said, just like housing though the market is red hot and tempting to sell, buying something new will also mean shelling out a premium. If markets cool down a little bit, i'll take a closer look at the Stinger again. If i am able to stretch my budget then the Genesis G70 and Acura's new TLX Type-S looks tempting too. Its a shame that none of the manufacturers produce anything interesting below $40k these days.
 

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Bad - Horrendous blind spot when looking back. Adding to that, the left rear view mirror folds down when going in Reverse.
I had kerb dip on my BMW 5, Lexus IS and Saab 9.3 Aero. On all 3 cars when the selector is set to the drivers mirror the passenger mirror shouldn't dip. Worth a try maybe.
 

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Congrats on the CX30, it looks so much better in real and in my opinion much better looking than the CX3. I haven't posted much here in a while mainly because my Mazda6 is sitting in the garage collecting dust ever since the pandemic began. I have done <1.5k miles in over 18 months. I am at 59k miles in my 2016 M6 GT, and the itch has begun to buy something new. I love sedans and besides with my wife getting a new Santa Fe we dont need 2 suvs in the family. While shopping for her Santa Fe i got the opportunity to look at the KIA Stinger, the new K5, Hyundai Elantra N line and the Genesis G70. Love them or hate them but gotta give it to Hyundai/KIA for still believing in sedans when the entire industry has moved to SUVs/CUVs. I totally loved the Genesis G70, the 2022 is overstyled but elegant and the interiors looks a world apart from my mazda. I had the dealers run numbers for KIA Stinger GT, GT2 and the Genesis G70 and the best they were coming up with was <$1000 from sticker for the Genesis and $500 off the sticker for the Stinger ! Such is the crazy world we are living in that not just customers but corporate clients are picking up vehicles from the lot, including cars like Stinger which before the pandemic would sit on the dealer lot for 4 to 5 months.

Like others have said, just like housing though the market is red hot and tempting to sell, buying something new will also mean shelling out a premium. If markets cool down a little bit, i'll take a closer look at the Stinger again. If i am able to stretch my budget then the Genesis G70 and Acura's new TLX Type-S looks tempting too. Its a shame that none of the manufacturers produce anything interesting below $40k these days.
I prefer the Infinity Q50 3.0T over the Hyundai/Kia engines that have been having many recalls.
Sure it's dated but good deals out there.
 

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I prefer the Infinity Q50 3.0T over the Hyundai/Kia engines that have been having many recalls.
Sure it's dated but good deals out there.
Yes, the Q50 is right up there on my shortlist, the only caveat is the red sport 400 trim will put it in the same ballpark as a loaded 2022 G70, Acura Type S or a low miles CPO 340i or Audi S4. There's also the question on if and when will Nissan decide to replace the current Q50 platform considering it is already 10 yrs old. I'll wait for another 6 months before making a decision, and hopefully by then the market should have corrected to some degree. I am keen on the new Acura Type S but none are available yet to see in real let alone test drive one.
 
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