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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone.

I have a few questions regarding wheel fitment regarding first generation Mazda 6i's.

I have two sets of rims, (the stock 17s, and a pair of 18" RX8 rims.)
Currently the RX8's are running quite well, and have been for many years. There is absolutely no rubbing, and I did not need to roll my fenders.

I am looking into getting BC coilovers very soon, and wonder if the subtle drop that I am looking to produce, will cause the RX8s to start to rub.

Question # 1: Will a subtle (1.5" front) (.5" rear) drop onto BC coils require me to roll my fenders for the stock JDM RX8 18" wheel? I do not wish to roll them. :-/

Things I know:

Bolt Pattern: 5x114.3

Stock OEM 17" Dimensions:
17" OEM Mazda 6 5-spoke
5x114.3 17x7 +60mm offset 21.1Lbs

RX8 OEM 18" Dimensions:
18" OEM RX-8 5-spoke
5x114.3 18x8 +50mm offset

***Currently running 235-40-18 on my RX8's on Sumitomo HTRZ III's.
Been running great for a very long time, with no issues.

Here is question # 2:

I am looking to get a pair of Enkei RPF1's. I searched the forum, and noticed that these are not common for the Mazda6. It appears only one individual had them on his car, and as I recall from reading his post, he needed to roll his fenders to prevent them from rubbing.

This may be a noob question, and for that I am sorry, but here goes. I just can’t seem to figure out how wheel dimensions work.

If you can find an ENKEI RPF1 in the same wheel dimension as the stock 17s or stock 18s, and therefore put on the same tire as stock, it will naturally be the same dimension as the stock rims, and will act exactly as those did? Does that make sense? Here I will try again.

So the stock 17s are 5x114.3 17x7 + 60m offset.
The width of the rim is 7 inches across?
The diameter of the rim is 17 inches around?
Don't know what offset is....

Nonetheless: If I found RPF1s in 17inches, with a rim width of 7 (for stock 17s) or 8 inches (for stock RX8s) they should fit without any issues?

If someone could please help me understand, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much!

-Emmanuel

****Not to jack his picture, but attached is a picture of the guy with the 6 hatch with RPF1s. I am looking to do something like this.
 

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On 235's, you will probably need to roll the rear - rolling is easy, don't let this stop you from dropping..

What are you investing in coils for if you're only going to drop .5" though?

RPF1's fit so long as you get a proper offset, but they look like ass on the 6. That's Joel's car you posted, I love Joel but his car looked like a bag of asses on them - those wre 17x9 +35 with 245/40's IIRC.
 

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Whats up, Emmanuel?

With a mild drop, you will be fine on the rx8 wheels.

As far as the rpf1's...depending on how wide and how aggressive an offset you get, will determine whether or not you have to roll your fenders.
If you stick with anything 8-8.5 inches wide or less with an offset of 45 or higher, you should be fine.

Also, if you need your fenders rolled, I have a buddy who can do them for a good price. He's done mine and two other of my friends' cars along with countless of other people's cars. He drives a mazdaspeed6, so he is familiar with our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses guys.

Could someone please explain the concept of offset for me? That's the part that is confusing for me.

Driz - you stated that with 235s, I might have to roll the rear, why is that? Just trying to understand.

I will probably shoot for an 8" or 7" width on any new rims.

What about RPF1's in the stock 17" size/dimensions. Would they require any modification?

Also, is there a specific tire brand/style that has a "curb protector"? It's like a lip of tire that protects the rim from curb rash. I've seen it on a few cars, but don't know if was just how the tire was manufactured, or if it is actually intended to protect the lip.

I want to get BC's because I want to remove the wheel gap, and ive read that coils are easier to install than spring sets, and typically put less stress on other oem parts if you were to just opt for lowering springs vs. coils. Also, I would like to be able to adjust the height per rims I am using, or per circumstances.
 

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banana boat.
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No roll needed with the RX8s.... the coils will create natural camber if anything, but they will look a tad sunken in if you drop it too much.

the RPF1s will depend entirely on what you buy. Though rolling your fenders will not only allow you buy nicer looking wheels, they nicer looking wheels will improve performance and looks.
 

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Thanks for the responses guys.

Could someone please explain the concept of offset for me? That's the part that is confusing for me.

Driz - you stated that with 235s, I might have to roll the rear, why is that? Just trying to understand.

I will probably shoot for an 8" or 7" width on any new rims.

What about RPF1's in the stock 17" size/dimensions. Would they require any modification?

Also, is there a specific tire brand/style that has a "curb protector"? It's like a lip of tire that protects the rim from curb rash. I've seen it on a few cars, but don't know if was just how the tire was manufactured, or if it is actually intended to protect the lip.

I want to get BC's because I want to remove the wheel gap, and ive read that coils are easier to install than spring sets, and typically put less stress on other oem parts if you were to just opt for lowering springs vs. coils. Also, I would like to be able to adjust the height per rims I am using, or per circumstances.

Offset is just the location of the hub mounting surface (of the wheel itself) in relation to the center of the wheel. A high offset, +60, +55, etc., will be closer to the surface of the wheel. A lower offset, +15, +25, etc., will be closer to the center of the wheel. A lower offset creates more poke, a bigger lip in the wheel.
 

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banana boat.
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I am running almost the same specs (3mm more poke) and there is no way a flat roll would be okay. Not at my ride height.
idk man, We have had this discussion before....

are you running a 245 series tire too? I'm running a 215 which may account for a lot of it, but hell, I can run 20mm spacers all around w/o issue either.
 

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Actually I lied I'm 2mm more poke. I'm running 5mm spacers on a 245/45. My wheels are +48 so with the spacer they are +43. Fronts are fine. Rears I had to pull a little. Not much by any means.
 

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Thanks for the responses guys.

Could someone please explain the concept of offset for me? That's the part that is confusing for me.

Driz - you stated that with 235s, I might have to roll the rear, why is that? Just trying to understand.

I will probably shoot for an 8" or 7" width on any new rims.

What about RPF1's in the stock 17" size/dimensions. Would they require any modification?

Also, is there a specific tire brand/style that has a "curb protector"? It's like a lip of tire that protects the rim from curb rash. I've seen it on a few cars, but don't know if was just how the tire was manufactured, or if it is actually intended to protect the lip.

I want to get BC's because I want to remove the wheel gap, and ive read that coils are easier to install than spring sets, and typically put less stress on other oem parts if you were to just opt for lowering springs vs. coils. Also, I would like to be able to adjust the height per rims I am using, or per circumstances.
There's no difference in 'stress' on the rest of the car parts for springs/shocks vs coils. Coils are just matched spring/shock sets that are height-adjustable. Most are dampening adjustable (with the exception of Tein basics and a few others) as well. Definitely a better option because of the above info, but more $.

Offset is a bit difficult to explain, but Google it and it might help out. The offset is how far off from the center the hub is where it bolts to the car. In short, a lower offset than stock (17x7 +55 on the 6) means the wheel will poke farther out, and higher offsets mean it will be more sunk into the body. An 8" wide wheel with the same offset as stock will be 1/2" wider on each side, but an 8" wide wheel with a lower offset than stock will have more wheel towards the outside of the car than on the inside of the car (granted a 7" wheel with a lower offset will also poke farther than the stock wheels, but wont look as good since you have to run a wimpy tire). 18x9 + 37 with a 235/40 seems to be about the perfect setup for flush wheel fitment on the 6. I'm on a 17x9 +45 (with 3mm spacers) and 255/40 tires and I'm pretty epic flush. Definitely need a roll and a really slight pull on only one side to fit.



The reason I think your car might rub with the 235's, is because it's a wider tire than stock, on a wider rim than stock, at a lower offset than stock. When you have the above combination and you add a drop to it, it increases the likelihood of rubbing. It's easy to roll fenders though, but if the other guys are saying you won't need it, you'll probably be okay. You can slam your car to the ground on almost any Mazda OEM wheel and you won't have any rubbing issues.
 

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just my input into this thread.
1.5 inches in the front and .5 in the back is a mild drop (.5 in the rear is pretty much nothing!), i would NOT drop a grand on coilovers if youre looking for that little of a drop. whoever told you that installing coilovers is easier than springs and struts is incorrect in my opinion. coilovers are the best option for our cars period but for what youre looking for i recommend you check out the eibach pro kit or the tein h techs. ultimately though its up to you. i also think that youre going to rub slightly with 235 tires depending on the offset of those rpf1's. those are some sick rims though my man.
 

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banana boat.
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just my input into this thread.
1.5 inches in the front and .5 in the back is a mild drop (.5 in the rear is pretty much nothing!), i would NOT drop a grand on coilovers if youre looking for that little of a drop. whoever told you that installing coilovers is easier than springs and struts is incorrect in my opinion. coilovers are the best option for our cars period but for what youre looking for i recommend you check out the eibach pro kit or the tein h techs. ultimately though its up to you. i also think that youre going to rub slightly with 235 tires depending on the offset of those rpf1's. those are some sick rims though my man.
They are easier, you don't have to use spring compressors to install coils....

You also don't have to take them apart when/if you don't like the final product.

lastly, you can then drop the car additionally if the drop of 1/2" turns into 1" with a simple turning of a collar.

Coils vs spring+strut price wise are not very far spread, and doesn't even factory in dampening adjustments..........
 
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