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So I blew out my driver side rear tire a couple days ago and got it replaced with brand new oem rubber. Subsequently, after the assholes installed it they told me I should have ordered two because my other rear tire is on the verge of blowing as well. Anyways, since they replaced the the drivers side rear tire the car has been pulling super hard to the right. Could this be simply because that particular tire is just a larger diameter due to more tread, causing my car to push itself to the right (I literally have to fight to keep it on the road)? And if so, would this be damaging my other tires in the process?

Also, I'm extremely fucking confused as to why both my rear tires are so bald with only 20xxx kms on the car. Is it possible my alignment is way out? Being a broke ass student, I have a hard time swallowing nearly $500 per tire every 20k kms.

:toiletp:
 

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You need SPC front camber adjustable ball joints to get a proper alignment, or you'll chew threw tires every ~5-10K miles. You can't have different tread depths... anything more than 1 or 2/32" of an inch between front and back = you need all new tires. The awd system will be fighting itself basically due to the difference in tread depth. I'd measure the tread depth of that other rear, and get it replaced asap. I'd also compare see how much is gone from the fronts. If it's 2/32" or more, you'll need 3 new tires. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it beats buying a new transmisison. Get those SPC BJ's and a proper alignment ASAP!
 
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... :(

Where exactly can I find those, Douge? I know I could Google it but I just do NOT want to buy the wrong ones...

SPC Camber Adjustable Ball Joints for Mazda 6 / Mazdaspeed 6 (pair) - Revolution Performance Motorsports! ?
At least it wasn't your fuel rail ;). Yup, those are the ones. SU sells them as well, but I think they're actually cheaper at the RPM store nowadays. Read through this thread through:

http://forum.mazda6club.com/mazdasp...mps-noob-thread-summary-guide-new-owners.html

It covers the SPC's and some other stuff to consider. Sorry to hear of your tire issues, and the OEM's are a rip imo... well, expensive anyways, for sure. Measure your tread depths before you do anything...If your tread depths are too far apart, I'd consider buying a more affordable set of 4 tires. I finally decided on some Good Year GT's ultra high performance all seasons (iirc) as I'm in Boston, but haven't bought them yet. Hopefully next month! Also, I find my car can get out of alignment rather easily (pot holes, etc), so I bought a 3 yr unlimited alignments from NTB for a good price. I already had them set 2x and it paid for itself. I plan on getting them set every quarter just because I can, haha. Out of alignment = chewing up 1 or 2 tires, and possibly needing all 4 as a result = waste of $$
 

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The cupping of the tires is a common problem. FWIW once I changed to new springs the problem got slightly better, with new springs + struts/shocks the cupping went away. Probably has to do with a slight change in the load distribution. Anyway, SPC ball joints seem to have worked for others - ask rpm store for the right ones based on your model/year/engine type.
 

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off topic i know.

ydrone, your avitar just made my day (at work). is that a random pic or do you know her?
 
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Get some all seasons next time! What the tread rating on the OE Bridgestones again? Like 240?
The adjustable ball joints are the best solution, but may be pricey for a college stuident, especially if you're notperforming the labor yourself.
Lower springs will add negative camber. It's a poor way of doing it, but it'll help the poor wear problem.
 

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I've heard awesome things about Continental ContiExtremeContact's ... Ultra-high performance all season tires with pretty low noise, great handling (including some spirited track action) and decent longevity for an awesome price. If you want top of the line performance, tread life goes down and noise level goes up generally. But this tire seems to meet a nice balance and definitely cheaper than the tires mentioned above. Check the reviews here

http://tiny.cc/lguv4
 

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You're getting seriously ripped off. I got 4 235/40/18 Nitto NT05s for like $640 USD shipped brand new from discounttiredirect.com.

Aside from the fact that the MS6 needs a few small mods to get a good alignment, high performance tires have way softer tread so they have a way shorter life. Next time go for a set of all seasons. IDK what the shipping would be to Canadialand, but I couldn't imagine it being $300+ per tire. And I don't think the exchange rate is that far off from the USD right now.
Plenty of good tires here for an OEM wheel for less than $150/each: Tire Products - Discount Tire Direct
 

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If you arent doing any major performance driving -- general exclaim UHPs. Great as inexpensive summer/all season tires. One of my coworkers recently switched from Hankook ventus v12's like I did and got those instead. (hankook v12's are great tires as well, these are just a bit less expensive)


also, got my spc's and springs yesterday, getting them installed on sunday because i'm sick and tired of my front left tire getting eaten so shit on the inside every 6-10k miles. It's ridiculous. My tires only last about 20k... but they blow so often, I haven't had too much of a problem ;)
 

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I got just over 30k out of my oems. I had rpm streets installed about halfway through that, which brought the front camber to around -1.0, which I imagine helped things out in regards to tire life.

I haven't found a need for the adjustable SPC ball joints in terms of tire wear, but if you want total control over your alignment specs, in particular for additional handling adjustments, they're probably a must have.
 

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Don't feel so bad, I blew thru the OEM's in 15K miles ...

I wouldn't have minded if I was still up North Shore of Boston blowing through some corners but there's NO corners down here in Florida :(

Also, doesn't Tirerack offer a service to shave down a new tire to match the existing ones?

A necessary evil for our AWD car..
 

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Yeah and for what it's worth, my OEMs lasted me about 12k miles. I'm only at 34k miles and am about to start my 4th set of tires. Sadly I like driving my car hard, and really grippy tires lol.

I think TR does do that. Also an option - he could just go call a few local tire shops and see what they have for used tires. I know plenty of guys that get used tires with a fair amount of tread left on them for like $40-50 from local tire shops.
 

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I am getting my Goodyear Eagle GTs installed tomorrow from Discount Tire for about $800 for everything. 4 tires, replacement certificates, install/disposal and tax.

I hate buying tires and being poor.
 

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That's odd. I never had this problem. My the OEMs still look good after 40K. I've only had to replace one OEM tire from getting a nail punched too close to the side wall unabled to get repaired. When I ditched the stockers they had plenty of meat on them. I'm running cheap tires (235/40/18s for $50 a pop) and they're still holding like champs. I guess I'm not too picky on my treads, then again, I don't really track my car.
 

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why so expensive.......?

i get hankooks for cheaper. -- 600

general exclaims are about 500-550ish installed.
I was at the mercy of what they had on hand and not wanting to deal with shipping in tires and such. Some of the reviews were stating the General Exclaims side walls were folding too much and I read decent things about the good years. Tire Rack had them for $135 before shipping and handling and tax. They came out to $149 ish after that. I got them for $151 and they were going to double the install fee if I didn't buy the tires there or tired to do the price match on them.

Plus I am almost down the the wear bars and Texas has some crazy rain so I need better tires. I lost one car in the rain due to tires and hydroplaning so I don't want that to happen again.

Where are you getting yours done at that you are getting those prices?
 
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