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... thanks on the barometric pressure response. It request an ambient and wasn't sure if that implied weather channel adjusted values or for the unadjusted value that's typically based on altitude alone. That's why I posted both responses so as to give the driver an idea of what possible range to expect, even though one side maybe more realistic than the other (which is more along the ~25-28% range from what I have seen.

Thanks for the corrections!

Paul[/b]
That calculator is tricky on barometric pressure. There is a high elevation example given just above it that helps.

There is also a NHRA basic ET correction factor for elevation, ignoring heat and humidity

NHRA Altitude ET Corrections
 

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kelvo, its extremely easy: just put the knob over to the right in the sport shift part. instead of the transmission handling the upshifting, you do. you can bounce it off your rev limiter if you want, lol. i would recommend letting the transmission downshift for you though, when coming to a stop.

mazda has their sport shift "backwards" by industry standards, even though its the right way to do it. by that i mean downshift is a forward motion and upshift is a backwards motion. simple logic, really, since when you're braking hard its easier to make a forward motion to downshift, and when accelerating its easier to make a backwards motion to upshift.

lol. pm me if you have questions
 

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mmarfan i wanna thank you for making this thread. I've been testing the whole 0-60 thing with my car lately and having a horrible time. TCS on, TCS off, it didnt matter i was pulling crappy ass 0-60 times. Now that i know to leave TCS off, and launch around 2-3k, instead of the 4-5k i was doing i might not spin my tires through 2nd gear, lmao!!! Thank you again.
 

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My best was a 15.30 With CP-E, and I Optimized the TB on my own, later that week realized I had vaccum leak... gay. had 235/40/17 Hankook RS2 on the car at about 20psi, I'm at work now so I'll pot a few slips later, I had phenomenal reaction tims that day though, I could do 14's just gotta shift better. and work on wheel spin from the line and ride the clutch a litte more to.

Come spring I have OBX headers(gonna put on CPE before then probably) gona do the Fan controller, and get 245/40R17 RS2's, and gonna get the 8lb Fidanza flywheel and Stage 2 clutch. then start on my next project before summer, I graduate school come Jan 2 so Hopefully get into a Ford or Mazda dealer as a tech!
 

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My best is 14.9 on track. I have a 2003 S with stock cluth (40K miles at the time), Cpe intake and MSDS headers, car on 235's temp that day was around 80's.
I swear, before I saw this thread I had trouble running low 15's. now Im more consistent and Ive gone under 15 seconds on my car.
 

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on a 1/8 mile my best time was a 9.4 and i took off at around 2300 rpm
 

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Lads! I am going to start tracking my car so I will be taking it to the drags first to gain experience in shifting under pressure.

I have 18" Rims and my tyres are almost finished. Would I be better off buying the new tyres first or would I get more grip with the existing ones as my tyres are currently in a semi-slick condition?

I will be buying Kumho KU31's which are great for straight line balance.
 

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Whenever i go to launch my AWD Speed6, even with DSC off, it boggs out if im higher then 2500 rpm. Any idea why? I will usually rev it too 4000 RPM and then let off the clutch fast while hitting the gas hard. Any input?
 

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Whenever i go to launch my AWD Speed6, even with DSC off, it boggs out if im higher then 2500 rpm. Any idea why? I will usually rev it too 4000 RPM and then let off the clutch fast while hitting the gas hard. Any input?
From what I've read recently, you could be calling for too much load, which can result in fuel cut. The engine does this automatically. It will also do this if it detects too much knock, or anything else that it thinks will cause engine damage. What mods do you have? Are you using an AP? It sounds like she needs to be tuned, or it could be your fuel pump, or several other things. Whatever is going on, I'd take it easy until you figure it out and correct it. Good luck.

Anyone else?

EDIT: you may want to repost this question in the engine/drivetrain section and I'm sure you'll get more responses quick (probably at least a few the day you post). I just happened to wander over here and saw your post. I've found that some sections get no little action.. besides this belongs equally well in the eng/driv for sure.
 

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You guys have me all nervous about going to the track next month! My rear diff mount went in a couple months ago, but then tuning took over, then my AP died and other mods went in in the meantime. So, yesterday and today I did my first few launches, and my 60' time went from 2.20 to 2.12 and finally down to 1.88 secs. I hit 60mph in 5 flat with the 1.88 sec 60ft. I was psyched about the 1.88 and hoping for low-mid 13's for the 1/4, but now I'm second guessing myself and the super slippery track!!

I almost don't want to get used to launching on the street if the track will hook up so much differently. That sucks. I always heard you got better grip at the track, but apparently I heard wrong. Anyone know what the NE Speedway (Epping, NH) is like in terms of hooking up or a slippery track?

The other thing is I have LC rev limiter set to 4,100 and FFS rev limiter to 5,500rpms. I think I'm gonna lower the FFS rev limiter, but it will suck if I have to adjust LC rev limiter maps AT the track... I could just cut a few maps with diff LC rev limits I guess... but I'd hate the fact of flashing a new map, idling for like 10 mins, and then launching into the 1/4 mile, lol. Fuel trims should be perfect between maps, but still...

EDIT: Forzda gave me some additional drag racing tips, which he may post in here... if you're lucky! lol
 

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Let me know what other advice you have for the track. I'm not too concerned about my 0-60mph, but I really, really want to do well at the track. I want 13.3 after the fmic, bov, + tune. I may up the boost a bit, we'll see. Oh, how much did my tires affect my 60' time? I thought a 1.88 sec was great considering it was my 4th launch ever. That better not translate to a 2.0 or worse, or I'll be pissed! Makes me want to go buy OEM size tires...

The above is a quote from dougefresh as we were discussing his trip to the track. He asked some good questions that will/would afffect anyone headind to the drag strip, so I thought it might work well here. It may be posted elsewhere, so disregard if so.

Below is my statements back to him.....




Actually the shorter tires will work to your advantage at the track as the overall gearing will be lower and the car should accellerate quicker. The track 60ft and 1/4 miles timers don't care what a DH or other gadget says, they just report the facts!

Don't be too disappointed with a mid 13 sec pass. Staging, the launch and shifting quickly is the key to quick times, but it takes practice, practice, practice. The problem with that is your car will likey break before you can get the best run possible for your setup. This is precisely why I stopped making the full power launches after finally hitting two 12 sec passes.

Staging technique is the first process to master. The timers don't start until your tire rolls out of the second beam, so you want as much "head start" on the timers as you can get. If you stage right, the car can roll almost a foot before the timers start.

You want to roll up the lights slowly, trip the first bulb on and stop. Then EASE up until the next bulb just barely lights. If you roll at ALL after the second light comes on, back up and try it again until you just barely break the beam.

The launch is the next most critical phase of the run. Too low rpms and you will bog, too high and you will break the car. Just right and the car leaves with just a touch of squeak from the tires and the motor still pulling hard in the power.

The next is shifting obviously. You really need a WOT dyno run to see where the power is for a given setup, but I recommend running it out to ~6500. It has lost a bit of power at this point, but when you shift it is right back into the middle of the sweet spot power. You will not lose nearly as much acceleration power as if you had shifted early and brought it back to the next gear at too low power output. Get it?
 

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Whenever i go to launch my AWD Speed6, even with DSC off, it boggs out if im higher then 2500 rpm. Any idea why? I will usually rev it too 4000 RPM and then let off the clutch fast while hitting the gas hard. Any input?
Yeah, the rpms are higher than a normal quick start and you're lilkely not making enough power to get the heavy car moving for a full power launch. Rev it to at least 4k to get the turbo spinning and then floor it slightly before letting the clutch out REALLY quickly.

I launch at 4600 rpm with the AP Launch Control. I used the same 4600 rpms with a WOT/2-step box as well. With AWD you MUST have it well into the power or it WILL bog unless you can get a just a bit of wheel spin.

Try driving straight through the water box and stage with the tires slightly wet to get a bit of spin and that should keep the motor in the power.
 
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