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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sup everyone,
I've been having issues with my 2004 mazda 6 lately. Some of the symptoms include:

  • jerky/rocky acceleration in 1st gear requiring me to give it more gas for a better acceleration.
  • very noticeably weak acceleration in all gears (unlike a few months ago) requiring change of gears at higher rpm.
  • rpm jumps (revs with no power) for 1-2 seconds and goes back to normal while applying constant pressure on gas pedal (happens in the 40-60 mph range/ 4th or 5th gear).
  • engine revs up and down after start up (with no push of the gas pedal) which requires me to restart the vehicle to stop it from doing that.
  • gas mileage also seems pretty bad as of late.
My check engine light came on so I took my car to a service station that does diagnostics which resulted in these 3 codes.

  • P2110 Throttle actuator control system forced limited RPM
  • P2119 Throttle actuator control throttle body range/ performance
  • P2135 Throttle/ pedal position sensor switch A/B voltage correlation.
From what I have read on this forum, it seems that I would have a problem with my throttle body and that it isn't that difficult replace yourself. Can anyone give me some advice on whether or not I should attempt to do this installation myself or if the problem might not be the throttle body but something else based on these symptoms. My dealership wants to charge me 800-950 dollars for a throttle body replacement which i think is outrageous. Your help will be highly appreciated.

Mahalo!
 

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banana boat.
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Which power plant do you have?

Def sounds like a TB that at a minimum needs a cleaning and if it does not cure the problem, then replacing. on my V6 it takes less than 2 mins to remove for my wife.... less if she doesn't mind getting a little dirt under her nails.

PS if you have a V6, there are cheaper options out there than getting a new OEM.
 

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There is a hose underneath the throttle body that attach's to a plastic nipple, I believe has coolant running through it.
Easy to break that.
I did and had to replace that part.



Straightleg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Which power plant do you have?

Def sounds like a TB that at a minimum needs a cleaning and if it does not cure the problem, then replacing. on my V6 it takes less than 2 mins to remove for my wife.... less if she doesn't mind getting a little dirt under her nails.

PS if you have a V6, there are cheaper options out there than getting a new OEM.
Powerplant? V6/ Manual Transmission.

I had the fuel injector and throttle body cleaned about 3 months ago. It still didn't solve the problem.

I've been reading that the Cordova throttle body is pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is a hose underneath the throttle body that attach's to a plastic nipple, I believe has coolant running through it.
Easy to break that.
I did and had to replace that part.



Straightleg
Thanks for the heads up, I'll try not to break it.
 

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banana boat.
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Powerplant? V6/ Manual Transmission.

I had the fuel injector and throttle body cleaned about 3 months ago. It still didn't solve the problem.

I've been reading that the Cordova throttle body is pretty good.
get the 3.7L TB kit from cordova. Cheaper than a new OEM TB and more power.

Or you can ebay a 3.7L TB from a CX9 for ~150 bucks and get your own adapter plate made to rock it. for w/e reason the smaller 3.0L TB is almost double the price.....:huh:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
get the 3.7L TB kit from cordova. Cheaper than a new OEM TB and more power.

Or you can ebay a 3.7L TB from a CX9 for ~150 bucks and get your own adapter plate made to rock it. for w/e reason the smaller 3.0L TB is almost double the price.....:huh:
What kind of changes (plus and minuses) can i expect with such a modification? Don't mind me, I don't know much about TB's. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Also there is an oil/ greasy kinda gunk in my new air filter hose, which i replaced 6 months ago due to cracking.
Note: 2 months ago my TB coolant bypass line (plastic piece on bottom of TB) broke and coolant sprayed all over the place. Luckily I was close to home when it happened. I got it repaired immediately. Could this be the reason for the gunk in my air filter hose. I also read somewhere that it could be a problem with a PCV valve? Any idea what this could be?

Talk about car problems man!
 

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banana boat.
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oil in your intake track is blow by. This can be caused by the PCV, but most likely is caused by the front bank vent. I would advise changing your PCV and oil to verify that everything looks health and clean.(better safe than sorry)

the Broken line will not cause any damage assuming you didn't over heat the motor. Trust me when I say I have broken it once or twice ;)

Plus to bigger TB:

no more TB coolant line
more power
better throttle response
cleaner engine eliminating front CC vent

Minus
well you have to spend the money
dirty hands?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
oil in your intake track is blow by. This can be caused by the PCV, but most likely is caused by the front bank vent. I would advise changing your PCV and oil to verify that everything looks health and clean.(better safe than sorry)

the Broken line will not cause any damage assuming you didn't over heat the motor. Trust me when I say I have broken it once or twice ;)

Plus to bigger TB:

no more TB coolant line
more power
better throttle response
cleaner engine eliminating front CC vent

Minus
well you have to spend the money
dirty hands?
Flipper thank you for all your help. People like you make this forum awesome and helpful. i am going to clean my TB and change the PCV valve and if the problem still exists then I am going to purchase that TB from Cordova Motor Sports. I just have one more question. You said that a plus to the bigger TB is "no more TB coolant line". What happens to the coolant line?

BTW....Mazda in Hawaii sells their brand new TBs for $775. Hows that for a Ripp Off?
 

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banana boat.
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on the 2nd Gens they eliminated those lines from the TB as they were deemed unnecessary. The kit comes with a barbed fitting that couples those coolant lines together and get clamped off.

This is not only good for worries about breaking that stupid Y fitting, but also make the engine more serviceable because you don't have to worry about coolant going everywhere when you do anything to the TB.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I purchased a new TB from cordova motor sports. After installing the new TB, the car runs very well, no hiccups or jerking during acceleration at all. I even cleaned the sensors that are located on the air filter box with CRC MAF cleaner. However, the CEL came back on after 3 drives. Car runs fine but what is causing the CEL? Any thoughts?

BTW.....1 month ago diagnostics resulted in P2110 P2119 and P2135 which made me replace the TB in the first place. What could be causing the CEL to come back on?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Now im having another problem. When I start up my car, the engine surges up and down between 0 - 2000k rpm. Also, the slippery icon and the tcs off icon shows up on the dash. can anyone offer some advice? I tried starting the car 6 times and 6 times this had happened. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did you let the ECU re-learn when you installed the TB?
Hey flipper,
No I did not let the ECU re-learn. Actually I don't know how to do that. Could you please elaborate on how to do it? Is it something I do myself or do I take it in to mazda to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
unhook both battery terminals. Turn Headlights on for ~ 30 seconds. turn HLs off and rehook up the battery.
I had taken the negative terminal off during TB installation and it reset everything. Then the CEL came back on after 3 drives. Then the surging problems upon start-up this morning. I'll try what you proposed and hopefully the CEL and surging don't come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So i disconnected the negative and positive battery terminal. Turned the headlights in the on position. Reconnected battery and turned car and the check engine light turned on and the engine started surging (with tcs off and slippery icons on the dash). I checked the air filter/ hose, PCV valve hose, and TB for any vaccum leaks but could not detect any. After restarting the car a few times and letting the car warm up, I finally had a start up with no surging. I drove the car a mile and everything was fine. I waited an hour and started the car and aside from my noisy screetching starter (its been like that for over a year) every thing was fine so i drove to the store. After shopping I started the car and it began surging again. I restarted immediately and everything was fine so i drove home. At this point I have no idea what the idle surging is but I dont trust taking the car anywhere far. Im not sure if i should take it in for mazda to look at for $150 diagnostics. Any advice or ideas? Please help....:(

Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
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