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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all
I did a search but couldn't really find anything pertaining to the Throttle Body Coolant Bypass mod that has a how-to posted on the main page. I was just curious what kind of differences anybody has noticed after doing this, increased hp, or just throttle reaction time?

I have a friend with an old firebird who does this mod every may, and takes it off again in november for the cold air months, and he swears by it, but I was just curious what kind of 6 owners had tried it, and if you noticed any difference.
 

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Doing it today :) As well as changing my oil.

Those down in the south don't need to worry as much about the TB freezing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yep, that's the write-up I saw, but it only states that "cooler air = more power", it doesn't actually give any info on what the gains are. I was trying to see if anybody had a "noticable" difference.

Are we talking an extra 10whp? Or just a more responsive throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I doubt you'll notice any power difference. At most it's probably 1 or 2. It's mainly to keep you from burning yourself when you try to lick the throttlebody.
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Hmmm, I do have a very tasty throttle body...

So there really is no point to this then, because the results are negligable?
 

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I've done it and I could swear it has made a difference in throttle response but it could just be mind over matter. I did have an intake so that could be the reason. One thing is for sure,,it takes longer for the engine bay to get very hot. If you live in a climate that experiences freezing weather though I'd be careful since the throttle plate can get stuck.
 

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Hmmm, I do have a very tasty throttle body...

So there really is no point to this then, because the results are negligable?
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I believe crossbow came up with the theory that 200+ degree coolant flowing within centimeters of electronics inside the throttle body may have something to do with a lot of their failure.
 

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Ya thats just a hypthoesis though. I'm too lazy to test it. I just know cooler throttlebody = cooler intake pipe = less heat = monkeys.
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:laugh: Up until that statement your hypothesis made a hell of a lot of sense.
 

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Are you kidding? Until you get to the monkeys part of the equation, the rest of it is just theory.

Thanks for pointing out the poo flinging part of the tb cross. It makes the whole process understandable.

For anyone that has done the TB bypass, do you plug the areas of the TB with anything, to keep particulate from getting in there? I am just curious, since it can get quite cold here in the heartland during the winters, and would hate to by-pass the TB, then hook it back up in winter only to have some crud in the system now.
 

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I wrapped the TB coolant stems in electrical tape and zip-tied them securely.
 

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I just wrapped the nozzles with electrical tape to prevent subspace from escaping.

I noticed that I saved roughly 2 ounces of sprung weight by eliminating one of the TB hoses.

Btw for those looking for photos of the bypass on the v6.

Image 1, 1st circled TB nipple


Image 2, Smurf blood


Image 3, 2nd circled TB nipple and T fitting.


All you do is connect the hose from TB nipple 1 (circled nipple in image 1) to the T fitting in the 3rd photo, and completely remove the original hose from the second TB nipple (3rd photo circled) that was going to the T fitting. You'll need some sort of twisty tie to ensure the rerouted hose doesn't hit any of the belts.

And please be careful disconnecting and reconnecting the T fitting, its just plastic, and very easy to break.
 

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I had this done and here's what the dealer said. Tell me if this is BS.

"Temperatures under the hood can exceed 200 degrees. Therefor it keeps the intake air cooler during hot days. Plus it jacks with the air temp sensor."

Now, the air temp sensor is before the TB correct? So this guy (who is the tech manager BTW) was feeding me a load of crap because he ran out of excuses for my 301 CEL no?

P.S. This was before the dealership decided to replace my engine due to the fact that they couldn't get the car to stop popping that 301 CEL. The explanation from the Corporate Tech Line is that rarely the 3.0L has a valve issue that doesn't show compression differences and causes the air/fuel to be off (mainly an '04 thing that should've been fixed in '05). Never the less I'm getting a new "complete" motor next week. --I have 10k miles!--
 

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Well temp's under the hood can get really high...thats a yes...

195F+ coolant temp cooling your intake charge? Thats some BS.

The only reason the coolant goes through the TB is to prevent it from seizing up on a really cold day. If its rediculously cold out, and the car starts warming up, there can be a difference in metal expansion rate in the TB which can cause it to stick. (Something like that, I don't feel like typing the whole exacting reason out).

I've had the TB bypass for 4 years, across 2 Mazda 6's, and never had any issue with anything sticking. Of course our winters in maryland usually don't get too much below 20F.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
... its 200 degrees, so on a hot day it should be cooling the air that is drawn in? If by "hot day" he means more than 200 degress I guess he's correct, but would you really be outside driving around in that? I'd expect you to collapse before you get to your car...
 
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