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Into dealer for TPS repair and 30k service, they want to do a throttle body cleaning for $289. YIKES!

thought these skyactive engines ran real clean due to compression.

is this really needed or just dealer mumbo jumbo?



thanks
 

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I have had exactly zero reason to do that on my '15 and it has 130,000 miles on it.

Someone was trying to screw you out of $289.
 

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I did it myself on my old 05 V6. Lots of shit came out, but still not sure if it made a difference.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
 

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I've looked down my throttle body recently at near 200k miles and there's utterly no reason for me to screw with it in any way.
 

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It's not really for cleaning your throttle body - - - - it's more of a clean for your intake valves, piston tops, rings, and exhaust valves.
At 200,000 miles there is a good chance that your valves might have some deposits on them.

After cleaning my intake my idle smoothed out as well as my acceleration.
Personally I think its worth it in every car regardless of engine design or age.
 

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I always remove my throttle bodies before I clean them. Keep electronics away from solvent unless it specific for that purpose (and only then with reservation).

@irishQ I would skip the cleaning unless there was a specific problem you are tying to remedy.

EDIT: I seem to have forgotten I was in a Mk.3 thread with GDI motors. As @Red2016GT pointed out, cleaning the intake of a GDI motor (that currently has low mileage) would seem to be sound advice.
 

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How about intake valves that never get cleaned?
This has never been a concern for me at all, however... I do not currently own any GDI motors.

I would be wary or cleaning an higher mileage motor for fear of dislodging chunks of carbon that would then get stuck in a ring or something. On a new motor it would seem like part of regular maintenance.

Draining a whole can of the CRC stuff (love that brand for solvents) while revving seems to be the ticket, as you stated above.

It would seem appropriate for the OP to do in this case. I have edited my previous post.
 

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Check out the CRC website.
The product us designed to clean over 7 days.
It is designed not to break off carbon but slowly dissolve it.
That is also why it is safe to use in a turbo motor.
When you use the product you dont get that nasty smoke show that some products create.
 

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Worth a read
I'm not convinced about this carbon deposit stuff. No offense, but this "blog post" is an advertisement actually. I've read a few articles and reviews whether SeaFoam, CRC and other cleaning sprays are legit or not, but I have ambivalent feelings. I've watched a few before-after video (like this one from ChrisFix), but in the comparison images it looks same for me.

I mean I've seen before-after shots about the chestnut cleaning, which really fully cleans the surface of intake valves, but I rather not pump any stuffs in the engine if there's no noticeable issues with it.
 

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I'm not convinced about this carbon deposit stuff. No offense, but this "blog post" is an advertisement actually. I've read a few articles and reviews whether SeaFoam, CRC and other cleaning sprays are legit or not, but I have ambivalent feelings. I've watched a few before-after video (like this one from ChrisFix), but in the comparison images it looks same for me.

I mean I've seen before-after shots about the chestnut cleaning, which really fully cleans the surface of intake valves, but I rather not pump any stuffs in the engine if there's no noticeable issues with it.
DI engines that do not have secondary port injectors will have carbon issues at some point. A PCV system, in every car makes this a reality. Oil vapors streaming across the blazing hot intake valves. Waiting for something to happen makes zero sense.
It is not a blog post. It is a how to article from the crc website on how to use their product.
I cant speak for other products but the crc cleaner takes days to work not right after, which many youtuber video guys look right after the cleaning claiming it did nothing.

Understanding how a DI engine operates will explain that carbon on intake valves is not a myth. It is an eventuality.

Google carbon on intake valves in a DI engine, please.

At the end if day it's your car, do what you want. But this ain't fake news.
 

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There is a member on here who just posted pictures of his intake valves with 2000miles and they already have viable carbon on them.
 

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I know, it was discussed in another thread also. But as I have don't have any concern with the engine yet, the original synthetic oil is used in the car, I tank premium gasoline and wait until the engine is heating up, I think everything is good in it. Maybe I'm wrong.
 

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Generally you dont do induction cleaning until 15-20000kms.

I did ours at 15000kms. But all we do is short trip city driving.
 

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Well, I'm after 166000km (second owner). I've added the last 6000km, did a checkup in a Mazda dealership, so far so good. (When idling sometimes I feel something like a misfire event, like 2-3 per minute, I'll check it later)
 

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It eliminated any misfires or hiccups that I experienced in my 16. With 35 000miles.

I have used CRC on 10 different cars, from mazda, Toyota to Audi's.

I like it. It's easy to use and it's the only induction cleaner that actually cleans.

From my observations anyway, and yes I have done many before and after boroscope afternoons. I dont do them anymore because I know the stuff cleans.

Have fun. Stay safe.....
That's all I have to say about that....
 

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Well I'll tell 'ya what -- if I have a reason to stuff a boroscope down my intake, or if I remove it (and thus makes it easy) for some reason I'll let you know what I find.

I've got 200k miles on my "6".
 
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