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I adjusted my clutch several weeks ago which shortens the pedal travel a fair amount.
So it's 32 below (celcius) this morning on the way to work. I'm driving down main st and the pedal actually stayed planted on the floor after I shifted gears after a stop light - there was not enough tension to pull it back into place due to the cold temps slowing everything down. I had to put it in park, reach down with my hand and pull the pedal back up then I had to pull over and work the pedal for several minutes with my hands. Keep in mind, this happened after driving for 10 to 15 minutes.

I'm going to have to adjust mine back out to something closer to that high stock position - I'm beginning to realize this high or long pedal travel and the cam effect may have been necessarily in extreme cold.

This might be jsut my car but I thought I should post a warning... FYI
 

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I adjusted my clutch several weeks ago which shortens the pedal travel a fair amount.
So it's 32 below (celcius) this morning on the way to work. I'm driving down main st and the pedal actually stayed planted on the floor after I shifted gears after a stop light - there was not enough tension to pull it back into place due to the cold temps slowing everything down. I had to put it in park, reach down with my hand and pull the pedal back up then I had to pull over and work the pedal for several minutes with my hands. Keep in mind, this happened after driving for 10 to 15 minutes.

I'm going to have to adjust mine back out to something closer to that high stock position - I'm beginning to realize this high or long pedal travel and the cam effect may have been necessarily in extreme cold.

This might be jsut my car but I thought I should post a warning... FYI
[/b]
I would suggest that you take it to the dealer because it could be much more serious than just the adjustment...
 

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I adjusted my clutch several weeks ago which shortens the pedal travel a fair amount.
So it's 32 below (celcius) this morning on the way to work. I'm driving down main st and the pedal actually stayed planted on the floor after I shifted gears after a stop light - there was not enough tension to pull it back into place due to the cold temps slowing everything down. I had to put it in park, reach down with my hand and pull the pedal back up then I had to pull over and work the pedal for several minutes with my hands. Keep in mind, this happened after driving for 10 to 15 minutes.

I'm going to have to adjust mine back out to something closer to that high stock position - I'm beginning to realize this high or long pedal travel and the cam effect may have been necessarily in extreme cold.

This might be jsut my car but I thought I should post a warning... FYI
[/b]



WAITTTTT is it -32 celcius there??????
 

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that means its -26 degrees fahrenheit...pretty damn cold if i say so myself.
 

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I adjusted my clutch several weeks ago which shortens the pedal travel a fair amount.
So it's 32 below (celcius) this morning on the way to work. I'm driving down main st and the pedal actually stayed planted on the floor after I shifted gears after a stop light - there was not enough tension to pull it back into place due to the cold temps slowing everything down. I had to put it in park, reach down with my hand and pull the pedal back up then I had to pull over and work the pedal for several minutes with my hands. Keep in mind, this happened after driving for 10 to 15 minutes.

I'm going to have to adjust mine back out to something closer to that high stock position - I'm beginning to realize this high or long pedal travel and the cam effect may have been necessarily in extreme cold.

This might be jsut my car but I thought I should post a warning... FYI
[/b]

You messed up when you did the adjustment and your clutch has been engaged the whole time for several weeks now. My guess is you will need a new clutch and Mazda will not replace it as they suck with thier warrenty's.

We have hydrolic clutches so they self adjust when warn and because you pedal would not come back up tells me that you pressure plate is messed up....

I ave had this happen in my other car...and my buddy jsut had this ame problem
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You messed up when you did the adjustment and your clutch has been engaged the whole time for several weeks now. My guess is you will need a new clutch and Mazda will not replace it as they suck with thier warrenty's.

We have hydrolic clutches so they self adjust when warn and because you pedal would not come back up tells me that you pressure plate is messed up....

I ave had this happen in my other car...and my buddy jsut had this ame problem
[/b]

No - that is not the case. My pedal was FROZEN as stated. The reason it wouldn't return is that when you shorten up the clutch travel, you remove some of the cam effect that helps return the pedal (remember all those that complained about how high sprung this clutch was???)

Its fine now that it's warmed to -15 :D . But thanks for your feedback :sarc:
 

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If mazda won't replace a clutch on a vehicle under say 30,000 miles... You better take that shit to court... and fight them to the death....

The clutch SHOULD last a good 90-120 under normal driving conditions.. some people can keep a clutch for 200,000+ miles...

Point being... even under heavy driving conditions... and poor clutching.. it SHOULD last past 30,000 miles...
 

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If mazda won't replace a clutch on a vehicle under say 30,000 miles... You better take that shit to court... and fight them to the death....

The clutch SHOULD last a good 90-120 under normal driving conditions.. some people can keep a clutch for 200,000+ miles...

Point being... even under heavy driving conditions... and poor clutching.. it SHOULD last past 30,000 miles...
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+1 - I am amazed at the number of people here (not necessarily MS6 owners) that claim mazda clutches only last 30K miles. I have only ever ruined one clutch and that was my first car and it was flat out abuse. I have hundreds of thousands of miles on a handful of mtx cars and no clutches went bad.
 

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A clutch, similar to brake pads or light bulbs is considered a normal wear item and not covered by any warranty outside of the 1 year 12K miles. All new cars have a 1 year 12K mile adjustment warranty where things like brakes and squeeks are covered.

I have just embarked on a new clutch for my Speed6, this is now available to anyone who wishes to have one.

I have attached pictures of the disk (Both sides, I used 2 material types) as well as the OEM LUK self adjusting POS pressure plate.

The self adjusting LUK PP is known to un-adjust itself randomly during a high impact downshift. Say you race and your diving into a bend and downshift it hard, there is a chance of the LUK design backing the adjustment all the way out and allowing the clutch to partially engauge for a few clutch strokes until the adjuster takes back the slop. This would be bad in a race because the slip would cost you time as well as power to the ground...but would also heat the living ba-jeezus out of the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel.

We may be working towards a upgraded flywheel in the near future.
 

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A clutch, similar to brake pads or light bulbs is considered a normal wear item and not covered by any warranty outside of the 1 year 12K miles. All new cars have a 1 year 12K mile adjustment warranty where things like brakes and squeeks are covered.
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I would agree with you (with an exception) on that.

If your caliper begins sticking and forces the brake pads to wear out prematurely, they will replace them under warranty. Same thing here - if you are not driving like an indy driver and the something is causing the disc to fail prematurely, they better replace it under warranty.
 

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yeah but if he adj. the clutch himself and did it wrong then it is noone's fault but his own. he took it apon himself to do it no one forced his hand. it's the risks you take when modding your car.

if you drive like a moron then your clutch will last, if you do or this is your first manual transmission car, then that is on you. i've seen clutches gone within 2,000 miles because of driving habits.
 

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I adjusted my clutch several weeks ago which shortens the pedal travel a fair amount.
So it's 32 below (celcius) this morning on the way to work. I'm driving down main st and the pedal actually stayed planted on the floor after I shifted gears after a stop light - there was not enough tension to pull it back into place due to the cold temps slowing everything down. I had to put it in park, reach down with my hand and pull the pedal back up then I had to pull over and work the pedal for several minutes with my hands. Keep in mind, this happened after driving for 10 to 15 minutes.

I'm going to have to adjust mine back out to something closer to that high stock position - I'm beginning to realize this high or long pedal travel and the cam effect may have been necessarily in extreme cold.

This might be jsut my car but I thought I should post a warning... FYI
[/b]
I just drove my ms6 this morning it was 10 F and was parked for a week waiting for the snow and ice to melt. My clutch was adjusted 2.5 turns and have had no problems. It sounds like pressure plate or the slave cylinder is sticking. I had a mazda 6s manual trans. and the slave cylinder was binding, you could feel it in the pedal and hear a clicking noise. It was replaced under warranty.
 

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Seems like I had the same problem tonight. It was midnight and 22F. I start the car and let it warm up till RPM's drop to 1100. Start heading out and it feels like the cluth isn't popping back with the same effor as always. It seemed like it lost a little bit of tension. It didn't get stuck to the ground, but didn't feel right. After the car fully warmed up the problem went away and it was fine when I drove back home later that night. My clutch pedal is not adjusted and the car has less then 700miles on it. Should I go to the dealer about it?
 

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Seems like I had the same problem tonight. It was midnight and 22F. I start the car and let it warm up till RPM's drop to 1100. Start heading out and it feels like the cluth isn't popping back with the same effor as always. It seemed like it lost a little bit of tension. It didn't get stuck to the ground, but didn't feel right. After the car fully warmed up the problem went away and it was fine when I drove back home later that night. My clutch pedal is not adjusted and the car has less then 700miles on it. Should I go to the dealer about it?
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No, Did you mark the stock point on the clutch adjustment like the instructions told you to do?....Move it back up to stock and try it. hopefully it works ^_^
 

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glad I live in Cali, won't get that cold.
 

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No, Did you mark the stock point on the clutch adjustment like the instructions told you to do?....Move it back up to stock and try it. hopefully it works ^_^
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what did you not read this guys post? He did not do the clutch adjustment and it does this.
 

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what did you not read this guys post? He did not do the clutch adjustment and it does this.
[/b]
I adjusted my clutch several weeks ago which shortens the pedal travel a fair amount.
[/b]
I'm pretty sure that that states that he did do the clutch adjustment. I see the words adjusted and clutch in there.
 

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Mr trees was referring to j dragon's reply to this post:

Seems like I had the same problem tonight. It was midnight and 22F. I start the car and let it warm up till RPM's drop to 1100. Start heading out and it feels like the cluth isn't popping back with the same effor as always. It seemed like it lost a little bit of tension. It didn't get stuck to the ground, but didn't feel right. After the car fully warmed up the problem went away and it was fine when I drove back home later that night. My clutch pedal is not adjusted and the car has less then 700miles on it. Should I go to the dealer about it?
[/b]
Not the original post that started this thread.

I haven't experienced any issues with the clutch since adjustment. As others say it would be a good idea to have the dealer check it.

The clutch pedal isn't actually physically connected to the clutch slave cylinder piston. From what I saw the actuator push rod on the clutch pedal is not physically connected to the end of the slave cylinder. Even if the slave cylinder pistion is sticking the pedal should still come back on it's own, because there is no way for the piston to hold back the pedal.

I would say that the extreme cold weather has somehow thickened the grease that's in all the pivots in the clutch pedal assembly, causing increased friction and slowing down the return.
 

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my bad....

I look like a dumbass now. Its all good though...I hope.
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No harm done. It's easy to lose track of who said what in all these different posts. That's why we're all here, to help each other and clarify misunderstandings.

:cheers:

Nice looking car by the way. Looks familiar for some reason. :D
 
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