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Discussion Starter #1
When the car was completely stock, there was no problem, I could hammer it, pedal to the floor and there was no fuel cut, just the occasional drop in boost and the car sort of stopped building power as the revs climbed.....but nothing too dramatic.

After the CAI, car felt the same to me, but now I could hear the turbo and BOV more.

After the ETS TMIC, the car felt quite a bit different. But I still remembered getting on it pretty good without much of a problem. I experienced fuel cut a few times, but not often, I could live with it.

After the DP install, the car feels waaaay different now. It feels like it might rip itself apart sometimes under hard acceleration. The turbo does wind up a bit quicker,and going from part to full throttle swings the boost on my gauge close to 19psi or so instantly!!! But this is not all good because the fuel cut is soon to come.

But now, even when accelerating gingerly, not even at WOT, the car hits what I guess is the fuel cut? It feels exactly like a car when it slams into the rev-limiter. And it's so annoying.....as this happens if I even think about really getting on it.

I almost feel like I should put the stock IC back on the car?

I can't even imagine how bad it will be when I finally put the other turbo on the car?

What's even more depressing about it, is that we know for sure it's not a matter of boost that initiates the fuel cut. As this happens with the factory boost controller completely out of the loop.

So as suggested, maybe it's a matter of volume of air entering the intake tract, metered by the MAF? If that's the case, are we seriouslly limited in the amount of air our cars can ingest?

The new tuning solutions should be capable of fixing this....so I guess I'm just venting. :tear:
 

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Think of the fuel cut as a good thing, because if that motor sees a 22PSI spike (which seems easily possible with all of the turbine restrictions gone), its not going to last long....

There have already been users that have blown their motors with just a DP, I can't imagine what a combination of a new turbo, IC, and DP is going to be....
 

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Whoa Wait a second..People are blowing motors with just bolt ons??????? that can't be good
 

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Think of the fuel cut as a good thing, because if that motor sees a 22PSI spike (which seems easily possible with all of the turbine restrictions gone), its not going to last long....

There have already been users that have blown their motors with just a DP, I can't imagine what a combination of a new turbo, IC, and DP is going to be....
[/b]
Welcome back... :) Good seeing you post. Tell me more about the blown motors - what went on the motors? That news makes me a bit nervous as I have more than just a down pipe on the car.
 

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I don't know how much detail I can get into, as at least one of the owners is getting warranty work done, and as Mazda reads these forums, he has asked that we don't post anything....

Just be precautious, thats all :)
 

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I found that my IC was too efficient and not causing enough pressure drop. If you have a boost gauge do a run and look for peak boost and then put on the stock IC and check it.
:)
 

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Wow, I was planning on going with the turbo back setup from CP-E by the end of the month and possibly getting the FMIC when it becam avail. so I am worried if our internals will not be able to handle these type of bolt-ons... What to do????
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I seriously doubt you need to worry about engine internals. I doubt there are going to be any bolt-ons that you are going to instlal that are going to stress your motor to the point of failure. A CAI, FMIC, aren't goign to stress your motor. It probably makes it safer if anything, as it isn't just hot air being forced into your combustion chamber.

And certainly the catback probably won't do a thing to hurt your motor. Especially with a stock downpipe still in place.

I'm not saying that these guys that popped their motors are not true, I'm just saying that I think the same thing would have happened if it were stock.

By the same token, there are members that have broken a tranny, or a diff mount with a bone stock motor. Had they added a few bolt-ons, you could argue that the few extra ponies caused the failure of those parts.

But realistically, it could have broken either way.....

I found that my IC was too efficient and not causing enough pressure drop. If you have a boost gauge do a run and look for peak boost and then put on the stock IC and check it.
:)
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After we were going over your setup the other day is what made me think about it actually.

I just threw that out there as a wild guess that your intercooler might be causing less of a pressure drop more so than ATP planned to go with the kit. I figured we were just brainstorming

I'll do the intercooler test, but my stock IC is in a garage in Chicago, and my apartment is in Champaign.

It should work out well since my gauge has the logging function on it too. But is there any other way to measure pressure drop?

Would it be possible to measure boost after the turbo, like if I had a 'quick tap' there, and hooked the gauge up there, then tried to repeat ths same run with the gauge hooked in the manifold port?
 

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Mazda intially had 330HP out of this engine in testing and reduced it for reliability reasons. My guess is more driveline related. Enjoy the power while you can, just be prepared to shell out the $$ when it breaks.
 

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get a boost controller like the blitz and reduce the boost response ratio. I had that problem on my turbo civic with a new 3inch turbo back with was cured with it.
 

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I've hit fuel cut with just an intake.

I just put in my downpipe last night, took me forever! I agree with forest when he said the boost climbs instantly. The needle on my boost gauge does not hesitate for a bit to get from 0 to 20ish in 3rd or 4th gears. My IC is on order, and I plan on getting an 3" cat-back made with some mufflers. Makes me want to put the exhaust off for now at least until tuning is available.

Remember, ATP has had their Speed6 for several months now with a GT3071R, FMIC, 3" Intake, 3" Tubo Inlet, and 3" catless downpipe with no issues. Nothing has been reported breaking to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How in the hell is ATP not hittng the fuel cut with all of that on there, and I slam into it when I think about accelerating hard?
 

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Am I going to need a boost gauge when I put the downpipe on? I thought this was a "safe" bolt-on mod, but you guys are starting to creep me out with the 20+ psi spikes....
 

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How in the hell is ATP not hittng the fuel cut with all of that on there, and I slam into it when I think about accelerating hard?
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Good question. Maybe no problems means a different thing when you are selling the product as opposed to buying the product - or maybe they just are lucky and have a boost cut resistant car. I would say that maybe the fact that they are in a warmer climate could help, but that wasn't the case for 4DRHTRD (and I think AZ is just as warm as CA).
 

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How in the hell is ATP not hittng the fuel cut with all of that on there, and I slam into it when I think about accelerating hard?
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I would be SHOCKED if atp had no fuel cut issues with that set up and no tuning. Have they actually stated this?

While I do not fully comprehend all the issues associated with the fuel cut, I really don't think there is much to be concerned about at this point. We are all (including atp) doing reverse engineering right now until we have a viable tuning solution. There are bound to be hicups.

While I appreciate Wiggums concerns and info, it's rather vauge and somewhat alarmist. I think the next few months will bring some definative answers to many, if not all, off these issues.
 

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While I appreciate Wiggums concerns and info, it's rather vauge and somewhat alarmist. I think the next few months will bring some definative answers to many, if not all, off these issues.
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Yes - even vague specifics(?) would be helpful.

It's like saying people who are modding their speed6's have experienced sudden death, but I can't give details due to legal reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I found that my IC was too efficient and not causing enough pressure drop. If you have a boost gauge do a run and look for peak boost and then put on the stock IC and check it.
:)
[/b]
I'm actually sort of worried about being able to use my ETS TMIC as well.
 

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I will not claim to know the specifics of ATP's setup, but if they have all that equipment installed and have it set to run stock boost pressures, or have worked around any boost spiking issues, then they shouldn't have any issues.

My guess is the Mazda ECU was not programmed robust enough to compensate for the quicker response to gas of the engine due to the removal of many of the restrictions. I doubt its boost controller is all that fancy as well. I take it the people with fuel cut issues are running on the stock boost controller?
 

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Put a boost controller on there and turn it DOWN slightly. It works and still pulls MUCH, MUCH, MUCH harder than stock. I am 100% convinced that fuel cut is initiated by the absolute volume of oxygen passing through either the MAF, or another sensor somewhere else being too high. If the climate in your area has dropped even just 20* for the winter, it will effect the tune of your car. Hell, the ECU actually keeps track of the ambient temperature, which also leads me to beleive that it adjusts itself on start up based on temp to accomodate the varying density of air. I remember last winter when my car was new and all I had was a boost gauge, it only showed 13-14psi. As summer approached, I watched it gradually come up to close to 20psi. That was all before I put on the EBC.

Put on a boost controller and turn it to stock levels. If it still does it turn it down a half a psi and try again. Continue until you no longer see fuel cut. It will work out, I promise. An EBC is ideal for this due to the fact that the same setting may not work two days in a row, but I am just saying that it CAN be set to run right.

Good luck!
-Andy
 
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