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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So I am a super noob when it comes to car audio... I am hoping you guys can help me out. I have a 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 with the Bose Package. So it has that 1 Bose Sub, 1 speaker on each door and 2 tweeters.. Correct me if I am wrong.

So I just wanted to get some better sound and bass in my car. But at a economical price. I was doing some reading and it seems like a Replacement Sub and Amp would be the way to go??? Or would Speakers and an Amp be better??

Also I don't want to do any special customizations. Anything I replace I would like it to be just plug n play and direct fit to keep it easy.

Thanks!

BigO
 

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First thing you got to consider is what volume do you listen your music @. Is it at a level before your ears bleed or is it conservation level. Also depends on the music you listen to that would prioritize what you should do. Hip-hop, Rap- Pop, etc. the sub/amp would be the way to go. Anything else a deck/speaker upgrade would be effective. Now before all the audio fanboys come in here, to fully upgrade your listening experience all of these componenets would need to be upgraded. An aftermarket deck overall is the best upgrade. It amps up and clarifies you speakers, allows for mulitple connections/features, and provides expandibility options (amps and what not). Although the metra dash kit is expensive as hell because our climate controls are integrated, around $150+.

Here's the bottom line, even though you have a slightly more complicated situation than i did (Bose), I would say to first upgrade to a GOOD aftermarket deck. Then go from there.

**Here's some info i posted on a simaler topic

"...just go check out Crutchfield. Enter your info and you should be good to go.

@ Crutchfield you can find all the reviews, expert descriptions, professional advisory help. But i would look at Sonic Electronix to purchase those items because Crutch is expensive. Cheap prices, awesome customer service, fast free shipping (get my packages within 2 days of ordering), and very reputable. Or just go to ebay if you have the know how."

P.S. I did a full system upgrade including BIG 3, and the most extreme modification i did was either adding the sound deadener or screwing my amps into the back of my backseats. Both of which are optional or can be done other ways. Shoot me a PM if you want specifics. GL!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I mostly Listen to Hip Hop, Reggeaton and Techno. So I guess there is a lot of bass involved in there. Thats why I think a Sub and Amp would be a better choice to start off with. Also I was going to upgrade my Headunit But i need to save up more money. I wanted to get a double din Dash kit. So that plus the hU i wanted to get is like $700+. So I rather get an amp and Sub for a couple of hundred instead.

I saw KoukiS14 write up and that looks something that I would be intrested in doing. Since that thread is almost a year old, are there any newer Subs or Amps for that kind of set up?? Or are those two still the top choices?

Regards,

BigO
 

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^That's a great post. It definetely sounds like what you want to do. As for the components still being the best, the amp in any system is really and independent component. You can get any amp that fits your application (match watts of subs, size, location, etc.). As for the sub KoukiS14 says:

"Other 8" subs would probably work, as long as the cutout diameter is under 8.3", which is the diameter of the hole in the sheet metal of the rear deck. It's not easy to find an infinite baffle sub, though, and the ED sub is pretty nice, inexpensive, has a low Q, and low resonant frequency, which lets it sound tight and play low."

So find the sub with the correct cut-out diameter and i think he refers to the sub as being a free-air sub. Which is a sub that requires no enclosure. Go hit up the links i gave you and use some of the reviews as reference. GL!
 

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QUOTE (thabigo @ Feb 18 2010, 09:56 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1638097
Thats why I think a Sub and Amp would be a better choice to start off with. Also I was going to upgrade my Headunit But i need to save up more money.[/b]
Here's another approach to consider. Tap into the line level signals between the factory head unit and Bose amp. These are supposed to be unprocessed, since all the funky EQ stuff goes on in the amp itself. Run the line level signals to an aftermarket amp, and you have flat signals to use with whatever aftermarket speakers you want, all without the cost and hassle of trying to make an aftermarket head unit fit and look good.

You can start with just an amp and sub this way, and then later add more amp channels for any door speakers if you want to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK greats thanks for all the useful information. As far as Amp I would get one that I can use for when I upgrade my speakers to. That the part that I don't understand.... Which amp to get, do they all do they same thing? What is the difference of wattage? Are they different Class or categories of Amps??

As far as Subs what is infinite baffle? Oh yea and for the Sub do I need to look at Dual 2 ohm or Dual 4 Ohm?? Damn this is getting confusing...
 

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check out crutchfield and call some of their advisors, its a real big help to get an immediate and direct answer. ***Note- Look over all of the expert hands-on-research and customer review from crutchfield and sonicelectronix. See what people say what some of the pro's and con's are.

Ok, here is some general off the top of my head info. Class D amps (typical sub amps) are the most efficient (power) but contain high levels of static stuff. BUT, that static only plays at higher frequencies, frequencies that you will NEVER here through a sub woofer. The higher "letters" are used for speakers (A, AB, etc). The double letter ones are hybrids that combine the best of both respective worlds. The amp you should get should match the RMS wattage of your sub woofer. When it comes to ohms, the lower the number the more potentional power output because there is less resistance (less ohms). The dual voice coil thing is there to allow for more expanded wiring options (i.e. 1/2/4 ohm load). To see more of this google "subwoofer wiring". The source i use isThe 12 Volt. Like i said before, i assume infinite baffle refers to a sub that does not need an enclosure ( the enclosure type being the most common).

Final notes; just make sure you match the RMS wattage between your amp and sub. You will want anywhere from 10-25% more RMS watts on your amp than your sub. It just helps the amp not work too hard. DO NOT skimp on the wiring, the weakest link will always bring you down. Lastly, research a little more on your particular situation (BOSE) and find details of tapping into the line input/outputs) as was mentioned above ^^.

GL!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok will do thanks kyro for the fast response and useful information.
 

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Orlando...

I have a custom made sub enclosure for the left side of the trunk, a 10" JL audio 10W3 Sub (brand new) and a JL audio 500.1 amp, used but in perfect working order.

I need to dump them....$300 takes it all. Let me know.
Any shop could handle the install in just a few hours.

[email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Damn nice Thanks a lot for the offer Brian but I just want something to replace the stock Sub I didn't want to put any Boxes in my Trunk. Well not yet.... But I appreciate it. If I don't find anything to my liking then I will def keep that in mind. Do you have any pics of What it looks like in the Trunk?

Thanks,

BigO
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so I am at some local audio store and they are going out of business they got JL subs 20% off I found a 8inch JL ZR 800cw there's also a bunch of alpine amps like MRP M1000 so are any of those options any good?
 

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That JL speaker, as stated on sonicelectronix, is a "midwoofer". The hertz range is a little high for a subwoofer, 50-500hz. You would probably want something with a min in the 20-30 range.

As for that Alpine amp, any alpine amp, they are awesome. You can't go wrong. The only thing is it pumps out 1000 RMS @ 2ohms and 500 RMS @ 4ohms and the "sub" you stated would not be a good match.

Hope that helps!
 

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QUOTE (thabigo @ Feb 21 2010, 10:04 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1638591
Damn nice Thanks a lot for the offer Brian but I just want something to replace the stock Sub I didn't want to put any Boxes in my Trunk. Well not yet.... But I appreciate it. If I don't find anything to my liking then I will def keep that in mind. Do you have any pics of What it looks like in the Trunk?

Thanks,

BigO[/b]
Short Version: I wouldn't touch the Bose system unless you want to spend at least $1,500.

You will need to replace the amp, front speakers, rear speakers, and even though said you don't want to the subwoofer. I tried using the factory sub with other speakers and found it to be horribly disappointing. (all in all sounded worse than the Bose). The Bose amp will only sound good with the Bose speakers, there is a substantial amount of EQ involved.

You will then either need to replace the OEM HU (there really isn't a great option available to do this), or put a EQ/line filter in.

You will then need to tune the hell out of it. The car resonance is terrible, the stock tweets axis is fubarred, the rear door speakers are closer to you than the front 6.5 which results in timing issues.

I'd highly recommend keeping the stock HU for looks, adding a RockFord fosgate 3Sixty.2 to fix the timing/EQ issues of the car. Going with a full range 'shallow' pair of components up front (Hertz or Image Dynamics), dumping some cheap coaxials in the rear, and using a 12" in the back. The new Pioneer shallow mount 12's need like .3CF of airspace to hold suspension. That would fit in behind the rear seats :eek:
 

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Nonsense as I just did it and it didn't cost anywhere near $1500. A 3sixty.2 is nothing more than a giant headache. It's one of the hardest creations to try to program and talk to. The PC software is still hit or miss. That POS is the easiest way to waste money and completely useless in the Speed.

OP, If anyone tells you to upgrade the HU in the Speed just walk away. It is not needed at all, ever, for any reason other than you want to look at an aftermarket deck that doesn't integrate with the factory steering wheel controls, navi, and digital display. There are pleny of write ups on here about what is needed. I just recently finished my stereo and it sounds amazing. I even went way over the top for what I needed and it was still cheap. Be a smart shopper and some research will lead you to amazing things.

I won't get into specific brands, but those companies that market the 14.4V ratings for their amps aren't the way to go. The Speed on a good day runs about 13.5. You need real amps with regulated power supplies in this car for your main speakers and a quality Class D for your sub. I can steer you towards some amazing pieces right now if you really want to save some cash. Hit me with a PM and we can discuss it more if you like.
 

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QUOTE (jmhinkle @ Feb 21 2010, 10:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1638683
Nonsense as I just did it and it didn't cost anywhere near $1500. A 3sixty.2 is nothing more than a giant headache. It's one of the hardest creations to try to program and talk to. The PC software is still hit or miss. That POS is the easiest way to waste money and completely useless in the Speed.[/b]
You do realize they fixed their issues a year or so ago? And I'm talking about the .2 and not .1? It is hard to 'tune' though. I know what I like but I leave that aspect to the professional tweakers for the tuning. For a more traditional approach get a new HU that can adjust time and some EQ bans; what a shame though to remove that beautiful factory look for no real purpose :(
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yea i agree with Jmhinkle i have read and done research so i know that If i want to change my HU then it will just for looks. That it why I think amp and Sub is the best choice. Until I decide to do the whole system. Jmhinkle i will take you up on your offer thanks for help and advice.
 

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My problem is I did just the sub/amp and it sounds horrible by comparison if I move the same sub/amp to another car of mine with the same settings. I was under the impression that the signal the stock HU sent was altered in some sub-optimal way which would explain my issues. I haven't looked into this since I bought the car two years ago when the general belief was "change the HU or abandon hope", at which point I abandoned the quest for quality audio.
 

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aftermarket hu's are just for looks, you kidding me? LOC are just cheap bandaids. Most of the time LOC will sap the rear speakers so much it will throw off the whole set-up and will not provide a strong/clean enough signal. Now, with aftermarket hu's, you get easier connections (RCA's) and high voltage ones if you choose right, get all of the other connections you would want (high speed ipod control, bluetooth, usb thumb drive, etc), eq with: low/high-pass filters, sub control, and anything else you can name setting wise all in one package mind you. Now BOSE does make things more complicated and the other "cheaper" options may suit the needs of some people, but if you want some/all of the features in one nice and neat unit, aftermarket is the way to go. But do factor in the metra dash kit price, $150 or so. This is why a lot of people try the other options.

**Note- Like i said, it would depends on what features that you may want now or IN THE FUTURE. If you don't see yourself going past a cd or an FM station, then the band aids (excluding peripheral eq things) would work. Do some more research on your topic before you come back with something. GL!
 

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QUOTE (Kyro @ Feb 22 2010, 01:51 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1638766
aftermarket hu's are just for looks, you kidding me? LOC are just cheap bandaids. Most of the time LOC will sap the rear speakers so much it will throw off the whole set-up and will not provide a strong/clean enough signal. Now, with aftermarket hu's, you get easier connections (RCA's) and high voltage ones if you choose right, get all of the other connections you would want (high speed ipod control, bluetooth, usb thumb drive, etc), eq with: low/high-pass filters, sub control, and anything else you can name setting wise all in one package mind you. Now BOSE does make things more complicated and the other "cheaper" options may suit the needs of some people, but if you want some/all of the features in one nice and neat unit, aftermarket is the way to go. But do factor in the metra dash kit price, $150 or so. This is why a lot of people try the other options.

**Note- Like i said, it would depends on what features that you may want now or IN THE FUTURE. If you don't see yourself going past a cd or an FM station, then the band aids (excluding peripheral eq things) would work. Do some more research on your topic before you come back with something. GL![/b]
Two things for you: First, The OP has the Speed6 which has a slightly better HU (internally) than the standard 6. A little search would net you this info. The big deal is that the Speed6 output signal has absolutely zero processing. It is a flat 2V signal on the output wires to the amp. Not a high level processed signal. That happens after the amp under the seat. That also leads to number two which is: you don't use an LOC on the Speed. You splice/tap RCA ends on the output wires from the radio. From there you can do many magical and wonderful things.

What does that leave you? Well, it leaves you with the fact that an aftermarket HU isn't neccesary for normal people and you will lose a ton of factory integration with one because the Metra kit has never played nicely with the Speed. 2V signal is plenty (and the best amps had 2-4V as the highest input anyway). 8V is a marketing ploy. The stock HU will do Ipod input (not control, but I don't need that) if you follow Chiss and Dustin's method. Depending on your amp choices, you can do without a crossover at all, but you will possibly run into a noise problem.

BigO and Smoker, you have replies in your box. I'm busy moving back home this week, but will help you ASAP once settled in.
 
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