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Discussion Starter #1
I have done a few clutches before on previous cars and also am very knowledgeable about cars. However i have never done a clutch on a front wheel drive . Does anyone have a step by step write up? Also do you have to somehow support the engine when you drop the sub frame and tranny? One last question is there any adjusting of the clutch after the install. BTW i searched and got error. THe search never works on my computer.
 

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There is a special service tool that is available from Mazda to support the engine. I just use my shop crane for such a task. I would also recommend a transmission jack if you are attenting this at home.

Basically you will have to:

1.Jack and support the vehicle
2.Support the engine
3.Remove axles
4.Remove subframe
5.Remove transmission
6.Replace clutch/flywheel and bearing
Installation in reverse order.

I haven't changed a clutch on the Mazda6 before but just from looking at it, I think that it may be easier to remove some of the brake rotor and hub assembly altogether to pull out the axles, this may just save a lot of time since you won't have to beat yourself crazy getting the axle nuts off. Also the rotor hub assembly will give you something to pull on to get the axles out.
 

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I have done a few clutches before on previous cars and also am very knowledgeable about cars. However i have never done a clutch on a front wheel drive . Does anyone have a step by step write up? Also do you have to somehow support the engine when you drop the sub frame and tranny? One last question is there any adjusting of the clutch after the install. BTW i searched and got error. THe search never works on my computer.
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I just finished up a clutch install today. It turned out to be quite an ordeal. I didn't have any instructions to go on, so that slowed me down a bit. I also did not have all the right tools from the start, which I ended up having to buy along the way. The transmission jack that Mazda6sMtx mentioned is a must, IMO. The engine does need to be supported, which I did from underneath the car with a jackstand. This worked fine except the jackstand was in the way at times when working under the car. Supporting it from above definitely would have made it easier. The clutch will most likely need adjustment after the install. The engagement point is at the very bottom of the pedal travel in mine right now. I'll have to see about adjusting it tomorrow.

Anyway, I'll be happy to volunteer any information you might need along the way if you do decide to tackle this yourself. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thats i appreciate it a lot. I am in the army and have a place on base (auto skills shop)where i can go to do it. They have every tool imagineable, including jacks, lifts, tranny stands etc. so i dont see a problem doing it then!
 

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I have an odd question (mind you I have barely paid any attention to how the clutch is installed in my 6) but what is the possibility you have to loosen a manifold or something when putting in a new clutch? The reason I ask is since Mazda replaced my clutch my car sounds like it has an exhaust leak.
 

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sorry to change the subject, but have any of you guys used a clutch masters clutch before? im getting ready to put a new clutch in my car. i was gonna put the exedy stage 2 in but its on back order for a while. so i was lookin at the clutch masters stage 2, but dont know a thing about them.
 

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I just put a Clutchmasters Stage II in my car with an Exedy flywheel. The clutch really doesn't feel that much stronger than stock. Hopefully it will last longer though. Time will tell...
 

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I just put a Clutchmasters Stage II in my car with an Exedy flywheel. The clutch really doesn't feel that much stronger than stock. Hopefully it will last longer though. Time will tell...
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MWortham (or anyone);

Can you tell me if it's recommended to replace the flywheel when the clutch is replaced, or can you just replace the clutch by itself? I've got 18k miles and am concidering replacing the clutch in the next few months. Just wanted to know if the flywheel is a manditory replacement at that time or optional. Any advise you could offer would be great.

Thanks
 

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MWortham (or anyone);

Can you tell me if it's recommended to replace the flywheel when the clutch is replaced, or can you just replace the clutch by itself? I've got 18k miles and am concidering replacing the clutch in the next few months. Just wanted to know if the flywheel is a manditory replacement at that time or optional. Any advise you could offer would be great.

Thanks
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Optional, but typically those with a mind for performance will purchase an upgraded lightweight flywheel to install at the same time to save labor costs/time.

The only time it will become necessary to replace is if there isn't enough run-out on the stock flywheel to be machined flat (which is a MUST!!! if you re-use the current flywheel). Most shops can do it for about $50.
 

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Optional, but typically those with a mind for performance will purchase an upgraded lightweight flywheel to install at the same time to save labor costs/time.

The only time it will become necessary to replace is if there isn't enough run-out on the stock flywheel to be machined flat (which is a MUST!!! if you re-use the current flywheel). Most shops can do it for about $50.
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If I were to get something like a ClutchMaster Stage 1 or 2 clutch, would I need a high-end, expensive Exedy or Fidanza flywheel or could I go with something less expensive? A ClutchMaster Stage 1 is about $380 and a Stage 2 is about $500. The flywheels from Exedy and Fidanza are about $340. I agree it would be appropriate to upgrade the flywheel when the clutch is replaced concidering how labor intensive this will be. Any thoughts on a good combination? I guess what I'm getting at is, what would you do if it were time for you to replace the clutch and you wanted to get the best bang for the buck (not necessarily cheap, but an upgrade from the stock within reason).
 

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I choosed Fidanza and Stage 3 clutchmasters according to info I found.
This things hasn't any bad replies.
More detail can't tell you because you have 6s. Its a little different.
 

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If I were to get something like a ClutchMaster Stage 1 or 2 clutch, would I need a high-end, expensive Exedy or Fidanza flywheel or could I go with something less expensive? A ClutchMaster Stage 1 is about $380 and a Stage 2 is about $500. The flywheels from Exedy and Fidanza are about $340. I agree it would be appropriate to upgrade the flywheel when the clutch is replaced concidering how labor intensive this will be. Any thoughts on a good combination? I guess what I'm getting at is, what would you do if it were time for you to replace the clutch and you wanted to get the best bang for the buck (not necessarily cheap, but an upgrade from the stock within reason).
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If you only want to replace the clutch, that's perfectly fine as long as you get the stock flywheel resurfaced. As previously mentioned some people do go ahead and put in a lighter flywheel at the same time since the tranny is already dropped. The lighter flywheel makes noticeable difference in performance, so most people you ask will recommend doing so. As for which to choose, the Stage 1 clutch (or possibly Stage 2, for longevity) and Exedy flywheel is a great choice for a daily driver. If you're out for the greatest performance gain, the Fidanza flywheel makes a huge difference, but at the expense of driveability (easier to stall, etc). Keep in mind that we also offer $20.00 off if you purchase both a clutch and flywheel (at the same time) from our website.
 

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If you only want to replace the clutch, that's perfectly fine as long as you get the stock flywheel resurfaced. As previously mentioned some people do go ahead and put in a lighter flywheel at the same time since the tranny is already dropped. The lighter flywheel makes noticeable difference in performance, so most people you ask will recommend doing so. As for which to choose, the Stage 1 clutch (or possibly Stage 2, for longevity) and Exedy flywheel is a great choice for a daily driver. If you're out for the greatest performance gain, the Fidanza flywheel makes a huge difference, but at the expense of driveability (easier to stall, etc). Keep in mind that we also offer $20.00 off if you purchase both a clutch and flywheel (at the same time) from our website.
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Thanks for the info, that really helps. I think I saw somewhere on this forum that someone had replaced their clutch with a Clutch Master Stage 1 and the flywheel with an "RPM flywheel", but I couldn't find it on the RPM website. Is the RPM flywheel still available and, if so, is there any information on it and what is the price? Oh, and one other thing, how does the Exedy Stage 1 clutch compare to the Clutch Master Stage 1?
 

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Thanks for the info, that really helps. I think I saw somewhere on this forum that someone had replaced their clutch with a Clutch Master Stage 1 and the flywheel with an "RPM flywheel", but I couldn't find it on the RPM website. Is the RPM flywheel still available and, if so, is there any information on it and what is the price? Oh, and one other thing, how does the Exedy Stage 1 clutch compare to the Clutch Master Stage 1?
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It's no longer available. We used to sell a modified stock flywheel, but we stopped making it for 2 reasons. The first was that Mazda kept changing the price of the stock flywheels (usually higher), which was very frustrating to deal with. The second reason is that Exedy came out with their 16lb flywheel, which was very close to the weight of the one that we were having made.

I haven't heard any feedback on the Exedy Stage 1, but they are probably pretty similar, since they both use an organic compound similar to the stock clutch.
 
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