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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,
so today, all excited, I drove down to the FedEx terminal on the other side of the city (Didn't want to wait for the courier and I to finally meet, stupids should deliver at 5 or 6 when people are actually home) to pick up my brand new Rear Motor mount and shifter spacers.

When I got home I quickly jacked up the car and got to work, Undid the plastic cover, Forced the surely seized bolts that were holding the old motor mount and then proceeded to slide the new motor mount in... Or so I thought.

There is no fucking way, that this thing can fit. No. I know that it's a "tight squeeze" with the washer and all but this was impossible by at least a half a centimeter of metal. What was causing this sizing issue was this weird stub sticking out of one side of the mount. This never caught my eye which was strange cause I was specifically looking to see if there was any distinguishing features that might say which side is which. Anyways, I quickly looked at other pictures of peoples motor mounts and so no such thing. This is forged like this, it's not something that might have came off or got stuck...

Did they send me the wrong part?
Am I just a complete moron? (I hope so, don't want to put up with the hassle of returning and what not)

Pics...

Umm...


VS. Pic of actual SU Rear Engine Mount




This is the lack of clearance without the washer.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I swear to god that was solidly in.
I'll look when I get home but I was certian it was forged like that.

We'll see.
 

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looks the same aside from the inner sleeve is popping out. have you tried hitting it with a hammer?
You sound like Jeremy Clarkson. You Top Gear fans will know what I'm talking about.:)
 

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cut that extra part out!!!
 
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Like someone already mentioned, I believe the inner metal sleeve got pushed out of the bushings. You should be able to push it back in using a bench-vise or worse case scenario just stand on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you guys were correct. too bad I somehow managed to fuck up the easiest install in the world and now the bolt thread in the block is fucked...

Can the engine sit overnight without a rear mount or a jack supporting it?
 

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Sorry about your mishap, but I guess better you than me since SU seems determined not to want to sell me their RMM. I emailed them after they told me they were out of stock of that part even though yours shipped after I ordered mine and I get no reply...

Hope your thread chasing goes without incident.
 

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you guys were correct. too bad I somehow managed to fuck up the easiest install in the world and now the bolt thread in the block is fucked...

Can the engine sit overnight without a rear mount or a jack supporting it?
Obviously not enough beer involved. :D

I guess by this point the question no longer matters, but I'd have to suggest something under it for support, even tho it's held in other places. Also, the mount is much easier to swap with a jack to hold the weight.

How was the fix?

I'm thinking any thread damage must have been minimal, not deep at all unless you were focused on thrashing em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm taking it to the stealership to get re-tapped. I don't really feel like spending 30 bucks for a tap and then risk screwing that up (which as you probably would expect, I'm not too confident about at the moment) when I can just put 100 bucks down and get it done for me.

Also I'm having a hell of a time finding a tap for this hole and if the bolt is messed as well which I suspect theres a very good chance it is, then I'll get to leave the car at Mazda while I wait for the part and maybe that'll be enough to make them "Rush" the bolt here :)
 

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I found the best way to do the swap was using the car scissor jack to move it up and down very precisely. If you had it lined up more or less in the right spot, that bolt should of screwed in by hand. There's been a few folks that have stripped the threads so don't feel too bad. Tap and try again!
 

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I found the best way to do the swap was using the car scissor jack to move it up and down very precisely. If you had it lined up more or less in the right spot, that bolt should of screwed in by hand. There's been a few folks that have stripped the threads so don't feel too bad. Tap and try again!
Same here....made it very easy to do:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I gave the car to mazda with the original bolt, I can't tell if its stripped or not so I'm just waiting for that dreaded call. I'm actually nervous. If they need a new bolt then I have a long wait ahead. They have to order this bolt and will take a minimum 5 FUCKING Days. I've tried every single place in a city of 1,000,000 + people and could not find it in stock.

Hurry up and call already!!

Same here....made it very easy to do:D
I used a floor jack. Lined up the holes decently. I don't know where things hit the fan really.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's in there (Finally)

I don't really notice any vibrations, but I also don't notice that much of a difference. I mean it feels a little smoother but I still get the thump from 1st to 2nd the moment I shift a little harder.
 

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the dealer did the work right?

I'm sure it's fine & all, still, I'm going with "Trust, but verify"

Get under there, pull the cover and be sure they installed it correctly. As long as your happy, then it's time to look deeper for the problem. If you've done nothing else yet, check the rear diff, perhaps even strap it.
 

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Dealer installed it?
I hope they did something with the two tabs that stick out on the frame side or they will be digging into the bushing in no time!.
 
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