I love the Corksport short shift plate I have on my Gen3 (which is obviously different) BUT do be aware that a short-shift mod does NOTHING about the realities of the shift itself, just your PERCEPTION of it on the lever end. (Also, most short-shift plates are fore/back only -- there are a few kits that also shorten the side throws but I'd avoid those as they materially raise the risk of a missed gate and that can blow up your engine.)
That is, you can't change what goes on in the gearbox. If you shorten the throw by changing the mechanical advantage ratios (which is what a short-shift kit does) then the force on the lever end goes up, as does the force on all of the linkage between the lever and the gearbox. So far so good; that's the trade off you "feel."
However, if you use that to shift faster that is ONLY safe for the gearbox itself IF you know how to and do properly rev-match in both directions, and virtually nobody does. Otherwise increasing the speed of the shift reduces by the same amount the time the synchros have to do their job. Synchros, contrary to popular belief are not supposed to ACTUALLY touch each other; they are supposed to act like bearings, in that it is the gear oil interface that is SUPPOSED to provide the synchronization. This is why GL4 fluid and NEVER GL5 is to be used; the film that GL4 forms on the interior surfaces is WEAKER than the brass material the synchros are made of, and thus the film shears FIRST, protecting the synchros. If you use GL5 the film is actually STRONGER than the synchro, and thus guess what shears? Yep. (This strong film strength, incidentally, is just fine and in fact preferred in an open or roller-locking differential since those parts are steel, not brass, and thus they're stronger than the GL5 film is.)
But, if you force the shift before the fluid interface can bring the dogs on the newly-selected gear into alignment then you go from full film lubrication to either boundary (bad) or direct contact (much worse) and metal-on-metal wear occurs. With a short shifter, since the throw is shorter, it is very tempting to shift much faster, especially if you drive like Speed Racer. But most people who drive like Speed Racer can't and don't also have the commensurate set of skills with their left and right feet when it comes to rev-matching on those shifts, and as a result you have a higher probability of buying synchros down the line.
The #2 synchro is the one that usually fails first in an MTX installed in a road car simply on driving dynamics; the RPM differential between 1-2 on a ratio basis is usually higher and, if you're accelerating hard from a standing stop that's the shift where speed-shifting has the potential to be the most-abusive.
