Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 56 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So as you guys all know, I picked up that 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 last night. Well this morning I had to work for a few hours. So, being it was a nice sunny 60 degree day, I decided to take the car out. Most of my work today involved me driving to numerous properties (home renovation). As I was driving to the 4th property, I was on the highway cruising along at a nice 75 mph. I needed to get over to the right lane and the person there would not let me over. So, I accelerated (in 6th gear mind you) and as I passed him, all of a sudden there was a loud bang. The clutch pedal started jumping under my foot like mad. I thought it was a flat but as I came to a stop, radiator fluid smoke filled the air. I got out of the car and looked underneath it and saw a puddle of antifreeze. I checked the temp in the car (it was @ the middle level), checked the accessport and it read 183. I opened the hood and immediately smelled the antifreeze and some smoke came out too. I went back into the car and tried to crank it but the clutch pedal was jumping like mad so I didn't push it or try to start it. I checked the antifreeze in the radiator and there was fluid in it. Checked the oil level and it had oil (not to mention the fact that no oil light came on the car or the access port). I called the guy I bought it from and even though he lived 30 minutes away, he hopped in his truck and immediately came to me. We looked the car over and under and couldn't come to a conclusion. I called the garage my company uses for all our vehicle and they immediately sent out a flatbed and we had it towed to the garage. As the seller and I continued to look the car over, we found oil (or transmission fluid) on the ground towards the back of the engine. The access port codes that showed were:
PO335
PO300
I know its a long shot but does anyone have any input?
I can truly say the seller is a good guy. I have friends that have known him for years and all of them say he is a straight shooter and very honest. Like I said, as soon as I called him, he jumped in his truck, looked the car over with me and waited for the flatbed to come and take the car and then he even drove me home to my other car (30 plus miles away).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
Walls of text without pics are pretty much impossible to offer a solution on. CEL's wont tell us if the turbo blew or if the flywheel something out or if a piston made a new breather hole. But, sorry about your luck.
I find it difficult to read, without the paragraphs. I finally skipped reading everything as it strains my eyes together with my pair of eyeglasses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Sorry to hear that. As I've said before, buying a used vehicle is like buying a lottery ticket.
I can't figure out why the clutch would do that.
Keep us posted on what you find.
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,062 Posts
Oh man, bummer. If I had to guess, I would say that you were WOT in 6th and had a misfire event and as a result broke something that punched out through the engine block. Being that the clutch is moving like it did I am betting a tiny amount on it being the crank. Mind you that is a long shot because I cant quite figure how that would cause a clutch seizure with a hydraulic clutch.

On the flip side when you rebuild it, the history will be well known and with a fresh power plant you should have years of fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
Oh man, bummer. If I had to guess, I would say that you were WOT in 6th and had a misfire event and as a result broke something that punched out through the engine block. Being that the clutch is moving like it did I am betting a tiny amount on it being the crank. Mind you that is a long shot because I cant quite figure how that would cause a clutch seizure with a hydraulic clutch.

On the flip side when you rebuild it, the history will be well know and with a fresh power plant you should have years of fun.
I left the clutch bit alone, cause its hydraulic and wouldnt move from trying to start, so i cant even comprehend what could cause that even if the plunger was moving on the tranny.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
FINAL MECHANIC ASSESSMENT-Rod went through the engine. Damn. The mechanic said whoever owned the car prior to me "beat the hell out of it!" Anyone know where I can buy an engine for it? Its the 4 cylinder. Please let me know. Thank you,guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Here: Car Part

All the ones close to you have >100k miles on them, but it is also better to have them close if there is an issue with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
580 Posts
You can also check the Mazdaspeed 6 new and used parts on facebook. You have to be a member in order to view what's posted for sale but they should except you if looking for parts. I'm in there and I only have a 6s. There was someone not too long ago selling a block and a set of CP pistons for $1500. Another block was posted fully built for $4400. They also sell whole cars at times for parts.
20191111_195305.png

20191111_195237.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Wow man! That completely sucks! That’s a pretty shitty experience and right off the bat. Knew it had to be bad with that clutch pedal description.
Good luck with getting everything back together!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
In response to Talon's post about this being on the owner, I agree 100%!!! I buy the car on Friday (11/8) @ 5:30pm and by Saturday (11/9) @ 12:30pm the rod blows through the engine?! C'mon man!! I agree with the fact that he KNEW there was a pre-existing issue. I've tried to be patient with him and I contacted him via text last night in the hopes he might try to resolve the issue with me (as, regardless of the situation, I am going to keep the car and have a new engine put in) but he failed to respond. I told him last night that he has until 5pm today (11/12) to respond and try to work something out with me. If he doesn't, that will fall on him. As a home renovator, the man I work for also happens to be one of the best civil attorney's in Birmingham and very rarely has lost a case. He is not one of those "ambulance chasers" but mainly works with business deals and properties. He told me that we have a solid case based on the fact that both mechanics who looked at the car yesterday said that it would be "in the trillions" that the rod would blow out of the engine within less than 24 hours of me owning it and they believe-without a doubt-that the previous owner did in fact know of the impending issue with the engine and they are both willing to state that in court if neccessary. Any input guys? Also, found an engine on LKQ that has 123,000 miles on it and it is in the next state over (Georgia) for $2,383.00. I also made sure it was the correct engine as the VIN on mine has an "L" as the 8th digit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,205 Posts
I know some states have laws regarding this very thing too, although usually aimed at dealers who pull this shit on unsuspecting buyers who know how to barely fill the gas tank and put it in gear to drive. I personally would NOT put a 100k+ turbo motor in anything. Those 2.3's can die a fast death if they arent taken care of. An old friend got a Speed6 from a local dealer and the previous owner didnt drive it hot enough and the entire turbo was clogged with coke (burnt oil and carbon) and the whole top end had to be replaced, at the dealers cost, because they didnt inspect it good enough when it came in, and his FiL was a very good attorney, but didnt need to get involved. Despite this, the car had continuing motor issues and they got rid of it a couple years later.

My experienced advice is, if youre gonna keep the car, do it right with a complete tear down/rebuild. The block may be fine and its just a blown HG, or you may need a new short block. A rebuild will usually cost you the same as a used motor, but youll know its entire history.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
UPDATE: Wow, its been a crazy last 24 hours. So, here is where we are at as of this morning...The garage I am working through is called "Jim & Jim's" in Homewood,Alabama. The attorney I work for has been using them for over 20 years & in the Birmingham area, they have a very respectable reputation. We worked together and found a motor on LKQ. It IS the correct engine (with the "L" as the 8th digit in the VIN), has 123k on it and we got it for $2,383.00 delivered. Total cost for everything (engine, installation and taxes) is $3800.00. Although its a huge chunk of cash, I am going to go forward with having the whole complete engine replaced. LKQ gave me a 6 month warranty on the engine and Jim & Jim's is giving me a 1 year warranty on the engine install. I contacted the seller & told him about the thrown rod and the price to repair the car &-much to my shock-he offered to give me some of the $ back!!! Last night we met up & he handed me $1000 in cash (which will completely cover the engine install fee)!!! I am about to start another thread asking everyone here if I should just restore the car to stock (the seller gave me all the stock parts-rims ,exhaust ,air filter, etc) or keep it with all the modifications. Any advice? Lastly, the car comes with a Cobb Accessport, a CPE delete & an AEM cold air intake (running SRI). When they put the new engine in, will the Accessport need to be reformatted to work with the new engine? I'm a little "green" when it comes to these things, guys. Thanks for all your advice, kind words and patience.
 
1 - 20 of 56 Posts
Top