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Not a 6, but, finally installed the Anti Gravity ATX20 today and am glad to report there is more than enough room to sit another one right next to it when I get a second one. I need to cut down the comically long hold down hooks, I took a m6x1.0 die and threaded them all the way down so I wouldn't have to source something new. Picking that thing up out of the box, you'd swear it's fake and empty (the stocker will break your back), but my voltmeter says 13.0 right here and the stock battery was floating around 12 if I didn't bump it with the Battery Tender over night once in a while. Over all, it wasn't as hard as I thought. I had some m6x35mm set screws that I used to make studs so I could secure those to the battery and not have to dick with screws and block nuts if I had disconnect it for any reason. I was able to remove the fusible link set from the positive cable end, but had to cut the loop on the negative side, which worked out perfectly as I didn't want to make new cables or crimp a new lug on it right now. Turns out the main cables are already 4ga, but I'll still do the Big 3 later on when I do the second battery.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Black Automotive design


I got tired of my Nokia 8.3 charging slow in the car, so I tried a Y cable to see if it could combine the older 2.4A sockets together, but it didn't. So I got a QC3.0 socket and it rapid charges now. You can actually turn it off with that touch button. 2 USB type A and one type C. Not really a fan of the blue, but it's in my center console and the lid is always closed, so, no biggie.
Automotive lighting Gas Audio equipment Electric blue Display device
 

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Holy crap, really OT... But driving without that boat anchor under the hood changed the way the car responds drastically. I didn't think knocking around 27 lbs off the front end would make that much difference, but possibly since it's right next to the strut tower.
 

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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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Not a 6, but, finally installed the Anti Gravity ATX20 today and am glad to report there is more than enough room to sit another one right next to it when I get a second one. I need to cut down the comically long hold down hooks, I took a m6x1.0 die and threaded them all the way down so I wouldn't have to source something new. Picking that thing up out of the box, you'd swear it's fake and empty (the stocker will break your back), but my voltmeter says 13.0 right here and the stock battery was floating around 12 if I didn't bump it with the Battery Tender over night once in a while. Over all, it wasn't as hard as I thought. I had some m6x35mm set screws that I used to make studs so I could secure those to the battery and not have to dick with screws and block nuts if I had disconnect it for any reason. I was able to remove the fusible link set from the positive cable end, but had to cut the loop on the negative side, which worked out perfectly as I didn't want to make new cables or crimp a new lug on it right now. Turns out the main cables are already 4ga, but I'll still do the Big 3 later on when I do the second battery.

View attachment 245765

I got tired of my Nokia 8.3 charging slow in the car, so I tried a Y cable to see if it could combine the older 2.4A sockets together, but it didn't. So I got a QC3.0 socket and it rapid charges now. You can actually turn it off with that touch button. 2 USB type A and one type C. Not really a fan of the blue, but it's in my center console and the lid is always closed, so, no biggie.
View attachment 245766
I believe this is the first time I'm seeing anybody convert from conventional lead-acid to lithium ion for their cars. You know, now that I think about it, I'm wondering if anybody makes a direct fit alternative. You know, a lithium ion battery that looks like a conventional battery without have to modify anything.
 

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I believe this is the first time I'm seeing anybody convert from conventional lead-acid to lithium ion for their cars. You know, now that I think about it, I'm wondering if anybody makes a direct fit alternative. You know, a lithium ion battery that looks like a conventional battery without have to modify anything.
@WoodinvilleDan did it first and yes they make one, it's over $1000 and not necessary. Which is why I went with that one and will add another for 1300+ CCA.
 

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What?!? That's the colloquial term for the battery?

I just can't make a funny comment for the anchor being a former Marine officer so I had to ask straight.


I am assuming that it's the weight reduction that improved the handling, right?
LOL. Not really...that's the colloquial term for anything that weighs too much and slows or hinders things.
Said anchor... the ATX-20 is supposed to be 3.7lb, or 1/10th the weight... Also, the car seems peppier, possibly due to higher voltage lol.

Bumper Gas Audio equipment Electronic instrument Electronic device
 

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I replaced my blown headlight low beam and tail light bulbs and fastened a lose plastic cover under the car which was making a flapping noise when driving over 40mph. I need to replace the little gear shift console bulb next, for which I couldn’t find a video on YouTube for the 2nd Gen. Mazda 6
I finally replaced that little blown sucker. It does not take a lot of tools or time. It’s a little inconvenient to reach but I managed and now it’s all good.
 

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Got some camber goodies today. Hopefully will go on this weekend.

View attachment 245886
I have a video for that


But be prepared when you go to get an alignment bc the wheel really needs to be removed to adjust the points.




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I finally bought a new battery tie down. The original battery had leaked pretty quickly when the car was new, and corroded the tie-down. The car is 7.5 years old and I finally got around to spending $5 for a new tie-down. (Just replaced the battery last month.) I also got a new belt tensioner (the updated version) and both belts, but I may not have time to swap those in for a few weeks.

I also had to put the snow tires on at 6am on Wednesday, because it snowed overnight. It was 79 degrees here last friday, and we had snow on the ground five days this week. This was guaranteed to happen, though, because I put my summer tires on.
 

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I can’t seem to post new threads

But i finally got a cargo box and made a video on how to fix the blown rattling Bose Speakers for the 3rd Gen 6’s.



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hi everyone! Im a newbie here, driving a MAZDA 6 2017 GS. I have been planning to replace my 17x7.5 stock rims. Got a good deal of MAZDA 3 GT OEM 18" stock wheels but didn't realize its an 18x7. I wonder if it is safe to use and wouldn't it look awful if RIMS is smaller? thank you to all that will respond
 

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I superglued my speakers last year and now they're vibrating again. I'll try some more flexible glue next time. It's pretty annoying
E6000 glue should work very well.


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