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If anyone has OEM puddle lights and want to replace them with something less bland and under $20, check this video out.

Link to the puddle lights are in the video description.



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2005 6S wagon 5MT
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@TalonTsi90 I actually did try doing a hood wrap today and I'm glad I got the cheap stuff as it was mostly a failure.

I think my error was not recruiting someone to help with the initial laying of the vinyl to get a good "glass." I also underestimated what a PITA that stuff is to work with -- more grabby than Bob Packwood after 3 martinis and creases up if you breathe on it wrong. I did mostly OK for the upper 3/4 of the hood, but the corners near the lights look like the cellophane on an overpriced airport sandwich.

On a positive note, my DIY paintless dent repair with a hammer and the rubberized end of a ratchet turned out pretty well.
 

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Got some new wheels. 3 pc Weds Kranze. Back to chrome. Wheels are in terrible shape but imma try to revive them.




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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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I did an oil change and rotated the tyres today, at 128,949 miles.

Oil: SuperTech 0W-20 High Mileage 10,000 Mile
Liquid Fluid Material property Rectangle Gas


Filter: Fram Extra Guard PH3614
Hand Liquid Automotive tire Cosmetics Tire


Rotation:
Font Motor vehicle Automotive design Auto part Logo
 

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I did an oil change and rotated the tyres today, at 128,949 miles.

Oil: SuperTech 0W-20 High Mileage 10,000 Mile
View attachment 244607

Filter: Fram Extra Guard PH3614
View attachment 244608

Rotation:
View attachment 244606
I'm not following that rotation scheme. I was told that I have directional tires so I should only do a "front and rear" and not the "cross" rotation.

The stock tires that came with my car is Bridgestone Turanza and it has more than 60,000 km since December of 2017.

I rotate the tires every 10,000 km.
 

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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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I'm not following that rotation scheme. I was told that I have directional tires so I should only do a "front and rear" and not the "cross" rotation.

The stock tires that came with my car is Bridgestone Turanza and it has more than 60,000 km since December of 2017.

I rotate the tires every 10,000 km.
The original equipment tyres on my car are asymmetrical non-directional, and I've replaced them with the same. The sidewalls of asymmetrical non-directional tyres will have the word "OUTSIDE"on the outside wall of the tyre. This is because they will have different patterns on the inside and outside of the tread.

Tire Wheel Building Automotive tire Synthetic rubber

I've gotten into the habit now of rotating them with each oil change, every 5,000 miles (8,000 kms).
 

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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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I went out on the road this morning and after a few minutes I got a CEL. When I got back home I checked my little generic code reader and it said I had a P013B (O2 Sensor Slow Response - Lean to Rich). I didn't check ForScan because after I cleared the code and took it for a short drive it didn't return.

Symptoms of this code may include:
  1. Lowered fuel efficiency - I've noticed a drop in economy recently, to the tune of about 3-5 mpg at a steady 75mph.
  2. A general lack engine performance - Can't say I've seen this, to be honest.
  3. Other related diagnostic trouble codes may also be stored - Haven't seen any.
  4. Service engine soon lamp illumination - That's what got me here.
Potential causes for this code to set are:
  1. Defective O2 sensor(s) - Possibly.
  2. Burnt, broken, or disconnected wiring and/or connectors - Hmmm...not sure about that.
  3. Defective catalytic converter - Dear Lord, I hope not...
  4. Engine exhaust leaks - Doubt it...haven't heard any strange new sounds to that effect.
Anyway, I'm going to keep monitoring the situation.
 

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The classic "Oil and filter " change ! Car feels a lot better .I have no idea when they where last changed . As Ive just bought it. So al in , new brakes at the front . rear pads only .Cabin and engine filter .Oil and filter . Cannot work out Petrol filter on the UK 2.0 ??????? . Spark plugs arrive tomorrow .
 

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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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Oil and filter change with tyre rotation. Current mileage: 133,124 miles. The rotation was not done to spec, but just with a simple fore and aft technique.

Oil: Supertech 0W20 20,000 Mile Advanced Fully Synthetic. I went for this instead of the regular 10,000 mile stuff even though I still plan to do the oil change at 5,000 miles. For some reason, these usually retail in Walmart for $26.48 but my local store had them for $19.98. The 10,000 mile stuff was going for $19.68. $0.30 difference for hopefully a little better protection.
Liquid Fluid Plastic bottle Electric blue Gas

Filter: Fram Extra Guard PH3614.
Hand Liquid Automotive tire Cosmetics Tire


Tomorrow I get to do this all over again tomorrow with my wife's Camry. I'm not really looking forward to it because the last time I did, I couldn't get the stupid cartridge filter out. The cover was being difficult and I didn't want to break it. But I have resigned myself to doing just that tomorrow, whether with a breaker bar (first choice), an impact wrench (second choice), or a damn 4 pound dead-blow hammer (distant third choice). I also want to change the valve cover gaskets. Wish me luck.

UPDATE:
So the breaker bar didn't work, so I had to resort to the impact wrench. That did the trick. I actually watched a video from 1A Auto and they had difficulty with that setup as well. Dumbass design. I also changed the valve cover gasket. That was another debacle. Then, to add insult to injury, Karen and Cynthia reigned supreme. Yep. HOA rolled up in their golf cart and handed me a warning letter. Remember this is my wife's Camry. Mazda6 is far better designed in every way. Let's give thanks for that, shall we...
 

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Wanted to try something new, so the first episode of “Why Modify a Mazda 6?” is live. Go give a look and tell me what you guys think, or if you like this style of video.

First up is Xavier with his 2017 Mazda 6.



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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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I finally replaced the two blown Bose door speakers (part# GS1G-66-960B). As per usual, I did a video. I'm planning to do my brakes (rotors and pads) and maybe the downstream O2 sensor on Saturday, March 26. I have some tie-rod ends to replace as well, but we'll see. Videos will be made!

 

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I replaced my blown headlight low beam and tail light bulbs and fastened a lose plastic cover under the car which was making a flapping noise when driving over 40mph. I need to replace the little gear shift console bulb next, for which I couldn’t find a video on YouTube for the 2nd Gen. Mazda 6
 

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2013 Mazda 6i Grand Touring - 2.5L I4 Auto
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Okay, as I mentioned earlier, I replaced the following at 137,555 miles:

2 front brake disc (Bendix PRT5668, rockauto.com, $39.79)
Set of front brake pads (Bendix CFC1164, rockauto.com, $32.79)
2 rear brake discs (Wagner BD125611E, rockauto.com, $57.58)
Set of rear pads (Bendix CFC1161, rockauto.com, $22.79)
Downstream oxygen sensor (NTK 22129, rockauto.com, $63.79)

I promised to do some videos, but I decided not to. The first reason is that my HOA is on my ass about working on the car and so I don't really have a convenient place to work. I found an empty parking lot nearby, but it's only a matter of time before somebody chases me out of there. It's a lot of working hauling my crap back and forth as well. Filming really takes up a lot of time and I really wanted to be in and out of that parking lot as quickly as possible, and I also had an errand to run at noon. As luck would have it, I had to stop working to run that errand and then continued afterwards.

Some comments:

Front discs/pads: Mazda needs to never ever make anti-rattle hardware like this again. Why in the name of all things good and gracious did they not make the parts out of a single damn piece of steel?!? This damn thing has 6 pieces of metal per side. Ridiculous. This caused me a good deal of delay as I tried to figure out what the heck I was looking at. I eventually figured it out. The separator tool made it a snap.

Rear discs/pads: A much better, simpler design, but, without the separator tool, it would have been impossible to change the pads.

I really wanted to get all the same brand for all the discs and pads, but as luck would have it, I couldn't get all I wanted at the time, so I just did the best I could. They all felt like quality pieces, so I'm satisfied thus far. I did notice one of my front right sliding pins was very very dry and I had to do some fighting to get it out to grease it. In case you're wondering, I used Sil-Glyde.

Oxygen sensor: The NTK 22129 is the original equipment item. Take my word of advice and never, ever, buy anything else. Every single clip that the original sensor has, the replacement has too, and comes pre-lubricated with anti-seize. It's even wrapped with the same green insulation material. I had bought an O2 tool and a 3/8 breaker bar at Harbor Freight, but neither was convenient. I just couldn't position them properly in order to get a good turn. In the end, I just grabbed my 22mm wrench, and in less than 2 seconds, the sensor was free. Zero hassle.

I tried to change the tie rod ends as well, but as hard as I was hitting those knuckles with that 4-lb dead blow hammer, neither would budge. So I'm going to tackle it again, but this time with a proper tie rod end puller tool. But that's a task for another day.

I also noticed that my right rear shock absorber is sweating. I'll get to that in a little while. Needless to say, I will be ordering a set of KYBs from rockauto.com when that time comes.

As for the videos...we'll see.
 
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