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That's just the thing - there IS something, well a LOT of things, different with the Skyactive engines. Sure, they'll be just fine without the Moly, but with all the new lightweight parts and precision and quality of each piece, wouldn't you want to do anything possible to keep it running as well as possible? Even if moly doesn't do anything, tough to say, but it costs no more than your conventional oil and lasts just as long - I say why bother with anything else.
Just had first oil change at dealership - they used Castrol 0-20W. I frankly had assumed they used the Moly version. Called after I got home, they said you had to request, and further it was $12/quart!:huh:
 

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0-20 is only recommended to meet CAFE standards for better MPG and emissions. Nearly every company had re rated engines that originally used 5w-30 to 0-20. 0w will give you better cold start up and be easier on your oil pump when cold. 30 will give better wear protection even after sheering. If you do a LOT of driving in a very hot area(equator) you may even want a -40.

0w-30 would be the best compromise between the two, but it come down to:
0w-20 = better MPG
5w-30 = better engine protection

Other than that it's down to additive packs, some oils have better detergent than others, others focus on wear protection. The best way to pick your oil is decide on the weight you want, then pick the oil that has the additives you want.

Personally I'm going to use 0w30 Mobile 1
 

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Since running M1 0W20, I had not a drop to add as top off. I cannot say the same to the "watery thin" FF Mazda Moly 0W20 (both oils driven at same spirited 6MT driving and heavy foot). I monitor my oil levels every weekend.
 

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Some scholarly good read on molybdenum disulphide (MoS2) lubrication. Quite lengthy like...>140 pages. Take your time. :D

Molybdenum Disulphide Lubrication - A.R. Lansdown - Google Books

NASA uses it, jet aircraft applications, bullets, etc..even the Germans (originated/invented synthetic oils, due to lack of petrol resources to wage war then) way back in WWII used it on "Big Bertha".

The downside of Liqui-Moly MoS2 + M1 0W20..other than my engine is alot quieter now (no loud direct injection noise), smoother running and no syn oil consumption at all/no top-off since, not a drop added since first OCI, in spite of my "heavy foot" on the engine (all contrary to previously used Mazda Moly 0W20)?...(me, "skeptic" is my middle name ;) regarding "snake oils")

None.
 

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Just had first oil change at dealership - they used Castrol 0-20W. I frankly had assumed they used the Moly version. Called after I got home, they said you had to request, and further it was $12/quart!:huh:
At which point the tech would have still put the same 0W-20 bulk oil from the barrel in your car because its not like anyone is actually watching him.
 

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Done two oil changes thus far. One at 5,000 miles with 0w20 Mobil 1, and a Mazda filter. One at 14,038 with 0w20 Mobil 1. Yes I know I got lazy on the second oil change. Next one will be at 19,038. No issues as of yet with 0w20.
 

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That's just the thing - there IS something, well a LOT of things, different with the Skyactive engines. Sure, they'll be just fine without the Moly, but with all the new lightweight parts and precision and quality of each piece, wouldn't you want to do anything possible to keep it running as well as possible? Even if moly doesn't do anything, tough to say, but it costs no more than your conventional oil and lasts just as long - I say why bother with anything else.

Just like Shell gasoline with the nitrogen - that's been proven to help engines but costs no more than normal gas - I make it a point to get shell any time I can because what's driving an extra mile for gas if it helps my engine go another 5000?
Ok, so then why do so many Mazda dealers NOT use the moly oil? Sure, it's more expensive than the bulk 0w-20 semi-synthetic they buy in bulk which is most likely why they use it, but if they were going to face a rash of engine problems or failures because of that decision wouldn't one think they would be almost mandated by Mazda to use the moly oil?
Required oil viscosity is pretty much dictated by bottom end clearances in the engine. With synthetics it's possible to run tighter bearing clearances, hence lower static oil pressures and less friction in the rotating mass from the thinner oil, which equates to a more efficient engine.
Obviously Mazda has done a great deal of refinement on the short block of the Sykactiv engine, but in the end it's still just that, a short block. It has main and rod bearings, a crankshaft, pistons, piston rings, and rods. No real magic there.
My guess would be that the difference between the 0w-20 and 5w-30 in anything except sub-zero climates would be slight, perhaps a wee bit worse gas mileage. In a very warm (Mexico) climate I would favor the extra viscosity of the 5w-30, but that's just one man's opinion.
 

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You're making a mistake

I would'nt risk it when it comes to the engine, will go with manufacturer recommendation 0w20. For my first oil change at dealer he even told me to stick with Mazda recommended radiator coolant , that I think is a bit of a stretch, I will use the regular Prestone brand.
FL22 Coolant is an ABSOLUTE MUST for Mazda engines...especially for the rotary engines. The formulation is specifically engineered for the seals that Mazda uses when building their engines. I don't remember the name of the additive but Prestone will eat those seals over time. Therefore costing you more money in the long run. FWIW, this is just my two cents from what I've read and researched over the past couple of years. I'll pay a few $$ more for peace of mind.

If you're not willing to risk using different oil than manufacturers recommendation then you DEFINITELY do not want to risk using a non-manufacturer recommended coolant. Doesn't make sense to me to be for one and against the other. They're equally important when it comes to the operation of the proper cooling of the engine.
 

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The Mobil 1 site recommends either 0W-20 or 0W-30 for the 2016 6. I use 0W-30 in all my cars, including a 95 Cherokee with 177K on it.

The 0W gives thinner oil for cold start lubrication. And the 30 should give better highway, high speed, high temp protection.
 

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The 0W gives thinner oil for cold start lubrication. And the 30 should give better highway, high speed, high temp protection.
Not necessarily in the latter case.

Oil's viscosity at operating temperatures is chosen with regard to the clearances involved, particularly in the journals. It is not just film strength but also flow rate and this is taken into account.

In this particular case it's almost-certainly ok to use 0w30 because Mazda recommends a 5w30 for vehicles sold outside the US with the same engine. But in the general case this is definitely not something you can count on.
 

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Royal Purple...All The Way!!

I'm sooooo ashamed of myself that I totally missed this post. I must be slipping. As a self-proclaimed and self-appointed "Royal Purple" evangelist, I HIGHLY recommend Royal Purple 0w-20 (
) and Filter (
)! It has been the BEST oil for me, especially after 3000 miles have been clocked, and the car is as chipper as mile 1!:grin2:
 

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I've ran Mobil-1 in every new car I've ever owned. NEVER any issues with it. In this instance, I am using Mobil-1 0W20 Advanced Fuel Economy "Asian" Formula (the bottle is marked "Recommended for most Hondas and Toyotas"). It is approved for GF-5 applications.
 
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