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Exactly 400k!

I hope you can post a detailed maintenance that you have done on its entire life, like changing fluid intervals, etc.


EDIT: I just remembered, I asked the same question last time. Unfortunately, I can't remember what thread was it.
 

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Wow !!! Congrats !
How is the body holding up with that mileage? pics?
 

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To be sure... not the internal (inside-case) waterpump drive version v6... but still - apparently not with a super reliabilty rep V6. Pretty darned good!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Exactly 400k!

I hope you can post a detailed maintenance that you have done on its entire life, like changing fluid intervals, etc.


EDIT: I just remembered, I asked the same question last time. Unfortunately, I can't remember what thread was it.
Oil changes every 5-10k miles. Spark plugs, coolant flush and tranny "flush" every 2-3 years (60-90k miles) but it's been over 100k since i've done that. Other than that, I just get the brakes and tires replaced when needed. Used a K&N air filter until my mechanic accidentally threw it out a while back. I've never replaced the shocks/struts and I've ignored a other things like O2 sensors (CELs tell me I've been running lean), an oil leak from the main seal (losing about 1qt/1000 miles) and the purge valve . My headliner is stapled to the roof, haha. Here's a list of what I've replaced so far:

radiator
ball joint
both front axles
control arms
starter
water pump
ignition coils
valve cover gasket
intake manifold gasket
2 wheels
both headlight assemblies
intake hose
MAF sensor
wheel bearings on 1 or 2 wheels

There might be some minor things that forgot about, but that's at least 90% of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow !!! Congrats !
How is the body holding up with that mileage? pics?
The body is in great shape, especially considering how long I've had it. It's been garage kept the past 9 years, which helps. The driver side doors have some bubbling rust underneath the black matte frame and the paint on the hood is chipped from all the sandblasting it's gotten from tailgating tractor trailers on highways. No rust anywhere else and I live in PA which uses a lot of salt in the winter!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update...still running! Had the following items replaced since the last update

purge valve (started smelling gas fumes after fill-up...didn't help)
fuel tank (top of tank was cracked/corroded and leaking...no more fumes!)
control arm (3rd one I've replaced)
1 strut (been running on the originals all this time)

I'd have 10k more miles on it if I wasn't working from home since March.
 

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I can say with confidence you have the highest mileage first-gen V6 (with original motor) in existence. Well done.
 

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I can say with confidence you have the highest mileage first-gen V6 (with original motor) in existence. Well done.
Agreed, by far. While there may be one hiding out there somewhere in the world, I highly doubt it. Congrats @nooch !!
 

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How did you get 400000 on the automatic transmission lol these are trash i already have 200k but i changed the transmission since the 4th gear was jerking everytime it shifts down. But engine running efortless.


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Its my transmission that I worry about the most as well. I am at 190,000 miles on the JA5A-EL and so far it is okay. I replace fluid every 30,000mi but even with the factory trans cooler (wagon) it still runs 170F-180F in the summer.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How did you get 400000 on the automatic transmission lol these are trash i already have 200k but i changed the transmission since the 4th gear was jerking everytime it shifts down. But engine running efortless.


Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk
I guess I've been really lucky. My commute (pre-lockdown) used to be 80 miles round trip. 80+% is highway miles, that must have something to do with it. A few years ago, my transmission light went on and I was having some problems shifting. I don't remember the details but it wouldn't shift above a certain gear, maybe 2nd or 3rd. I ignored it and the problem (and light) went away after a couple days. These days I'll get an occasional clunk shifting out of P or from 1st to 2nd. I just leave it alone...not throwing any money into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
About a week after replacing the fuel tank, I drove on the highway for the first time. About 50 miles in, my car stalled out. Felt like I ran out of gas but I had half a tank. Car started right back up, but I couldn't drive a mile before it stalled out again. Headed straight to my mechanic...which took a while because my car stalled at least a dozen times on the way. They replaced the intake hose (2nd replacement) and cleaned the throttle body. Problem solved. Also got rid of all the CEL codes I've been driving with the past couple years. I must've had a hole in that hose all this time, was running lean for a while
 

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About a week after replacing the fuel tank, I drove on the highway for the first time. About 50 miles in, my car stalled out. Felt like I ran out of gas but I had half a tank. Car started right back up, but I couldn't drive a mile before it stalled out again. Headed straight to my mechanic...which took a while because my car stalled at least a dozen times on the way. They replaced the intake hose (2nd replacement) and cleaned the throttle body. Problem solved. Also got rid of all the CEL codes I've been driving with the past couple years. I must've had a hole in that hose all this time, was running lean for a while
Oh no that's horrible didn't u feel something is wrong with the car all that time, it must be noticeable at least maybe loss of power or lean codes in either banks, I don't know that sound bad but u must defenitly feel it or maybe u could connect the obd and u could monitor how the car perfor and u can actually monitor the Afr I think I'm not sure how to but some obd unites can.

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I guess I've been really lucky. My commute (pre-lockdown) used to be 80 miles round trip. 80+% is highway miles, that must have something to do with it. A few years ago, my transmission light went on and I was having some problems shifting. I don't remember the details but it wouldn't shift above a certain gear, maybe 2nd or 3rd. I ignored it and the problem (and light) went away after a couple days. These days I'll get an occasional clunk shifting out of P or from 1st to 2nd. I just leave it alone...not throwing any money into it.
I replaced my transmission on 140k miles but then I realized that my mechanic didn't know the problem and it wasn't an electrical problem and simple it made the car go into limp mode and made the transmission jump a bit, i think my original transmission was fine but just spend for the transmission about 760 with maybe 20k miles on it barely (6 spd) which was super cheap and replacement was like 500, which is really good. Then I had the problem come back again the car turned into limp mode and the mechanic didn't know what to do then he sent me to an electrian and it was a really simple fix it had with the ecu wire. Car runs fine but every summer car throws engine codes and sensors break down its just not reliable and not easy to maintain even my headlights went out both of them the right one barely works and when I hit a bump it shuts off the second one stopped working and those hid headlights are extremely expensive u can find a used one for 200 which is too much for a car this age. Most of repairs I done them but when it comes to disassembling the engine for a timing cover gasket or big jobs I won't do that since its hard for no tools and lift. This car does really well on the highway tho one if the best cars I've driven on the highway I used to work in a Lexus dealership and they let me drive there cars so I tried all of them of course the cars are amazing to drive but our cars drive much better on the highway because u feel connected to the road unlike the newer cars u get the feeling of floaty.

Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh no that's horrible didn't u feel something is wrong with the car all that time, it must be noticeable at least maybe loss of power or lean codes in either banks, I don't know that sound bad but u must defenitly feel it or maybe u could connect the obd and u could monitor how the car perfor and u can actually monitor the Afr I think I'm not sure how to but some obd unites can.

Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk
Yeah there was some loss of power, but I thought it had more to do with the miles on the engine. It really wasn't that bad until it started stalling out after the fuel tank was replaced. Definitely running smoother now with the new intake hose. And no more codes!
 
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