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None that I could tell. VERY small amount of oil in one or two of the spark plug chambers, and a bit on the plug threads on the same, but we're talking eyedropper-type amounts. Still a potential issue?

Edit: Forgot to mention, all of the plugs looked good. Standard wear and discoloration, no oil residue, and no oil on the insulator or above.
very little oil may be ok. I had pools of oil in a couple of my plug holes so a new valve cover gasket was a must. I also had about 170k+ miles at the time.
 

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Just to clarify, I had P0171 and P0174 codes lean air/fuel ratio bank 1 and 2. This was fixed with a new accordian tube, the old one had a huge tear in it, from when i but in the high flow k&n probably, the k&n did not cause the code as was originally thought. But even after this i still had a miss at low rpm 2000-2500 rpm and code for a random missfire P0300 and an intermittent P0421 warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold code. I solve both of these (after reading this thread) with new coils and plugs (the old ones were toast) on all 6 cyls. after 1000 miles no codes have come back! Hope this helps anyone still on the fence about what the miss is.

-Mike
 

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Same freaking problem

I have the same freaking problem, its the stuttering/clicking sound that comes frequently from going up a slope in low gear. Thing is, my mazda 3 is only less than 3 months old! Im not a gear head so i dont understand jargons like pcm/tcm/pb. So someone please tell me the magic word to say to the mechanic. You will be rewarded with high-fives.
 

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Original Thread was Hesitation:

For all you folks who ** TEMPORARILY FIX ** the issue by installing new PLUGS, well i'd guess you're half way there! Now INSTALL NEW COILS and you're likely fix it!

Don't wait for or count on MIL/CEL to say the engine is misfiring P03XX. By the emission standards its aloud many misfires before it impacts EPA standards. By the time a single cylinder has enough continuous misfires to trigger a CEL, you'll be wishing you'd walked to work because it's really going to be running like crap by then! Not addressing misfires kills the CATs and takes the life out of your O2 sensors. . .

The tell tale signs of bad ignition coils: as the load increases it gets worse. i.e. in 4th gear, turn on the AC, Headlights, seat heaters, defrost, (add load). If the engine begins to stumble, its likely the ignition which is at fault.
COIL TESTING: OHMS and temperature wise the coils will test fine and EVERYONE PUTS them BACK! BAD IDEA! Its the dielectric break down voltage that you have NO MEANS of testing that is at fault. The spark is not getting to the plugs gap because its jumping to ground or back to the coils input. You can't detect this with an ohm meter! Replace the coils especially if you see cracks in the potting material as failure is imminent.

As for the throttle lag: On my V6 the engine is very sensitive to the quality of engine oil! Yes, pay attention to how it runs and shifts from idle and at low speeds right after an oil change. If I had to guess, the clearance in the VVT is very sensitive to the viscosity of the oil and the system pressure. Pay attention after the next oil change and see how it does. . .
Mine runs and drives much nicer on fresh oil!
I think you can use an adjustable spark gap tester to easily test if a coil is capable for producing 30 or 40 KV spark. See this
. Coils aren't cheap so its better to test them thoroughly before swapping them out especially because the tester costs less than a single coil.
 
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