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Discussion Starter #1
Since we have so many club member who already experience the power loss...

I just had one last night and I am Australia. I would like to know is there any way to test if it is power loss? ie. how to trigger the power loss purposely? or may be I should ask how can I avoid power loss except from reflash the ECU (it is not available in OZ yet.)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
can u explain why crossbow? I can't seem to understand why would it cause power loss... plz shed some light..
 

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The powerloss occurs when the engine is at high load and low rpm. Filling the car with people, then driving up an incline while in a high gear, puts some good strain on the engine.

Because the MPS 6 has all its power down low (3-5k), most owners aren't reving the engine...cause quite frankly its mostly pointless, and you get faster 1/4 times avoiding a full on redline pull in every gear. Because of this, a huge % of owners (at least 30-40% of the entire US population) has seen or will see power loss at one time or another without the flash. TSB/MRI's don't come out unless its a pretty widespread problem.

When the vehicle encounters a high load, low rpm situation, it causes a detonation event. The knock sensor is binary. It either sees knock, or it doesn't see knock. Power loss occurs because the default setting is "any knock = 33% throttle". I'm assuming that they changed a bunch of setting to make this occurance less frequent, and possibly took out a tiny amount of timing that no one would ever notice.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The powerloss occurs when the engine is at high load and low rpm. Filling the car with people, then driving up an incline while in a high gear, puts some good strain on the engine.

Because the MPS 6 has all its power down low (3-5k), most owners aren't reving the engine...cause quite frankly its mostly pointless, and you get faster 1/4 times avoiding a full on redline pull in every gear. Because of this, a huge % of owners (at least 30-40% of the entire US population) has seen or will see power loss at one time or another without the flash. TSB/MRI's don't come out unless its a pretty widespread problem.

When the vehicle encounters a high load, low rpm situation, it causes a detonation event. The knock sensor is binary. It either sees knock, or it doesn't see knock. Power loss occurs because the default setting is "any knock = 33% throttle". I'm assuming that they changed a bunch of setting to make this occurance less frequent, and possibly took out a tiny amount of timing that no one would ever notice.
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ah.... i c.. I will keep an eye on it too see if it happens again.. thanks for your explaination crossbow. may be I should try rev the engine within its powerband..
 

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Crossbow, thanks for this extra info. Funny story, a week ago I had 4 people in the car, and was going up a hill from low rpm. The boost kicked in at 3000 and pulled until just over 4000, then it pretty much felt like I took my foot off the gas. I thought this was the power loss, so I have been trying to recreate this for the past week while driving alone, but couldn't.
 

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its cause you need those friends.

i still haven't figured out what was happening when i first had my car. it may have been the gas, but it wasn't normal powerloss. the turbo never kicked in throught the rpm spectrum and throught all gears. that happened a couple times.
 

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Funny story, a week ago I had 4 people in the car, and was going up a hill from low rpm. The boost kicked in at 3000 and pulled until just over 4000, then it pretty much felt like I took my foot off the gas. I thought this was the power loss, so I have been trying to recreate this for the past week while driving alone, but couldn't.
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That is the exact type of situation that causes it to occur, and the exact result of the car forcing a 33% throttle position (regardless of driver input).

If you have gotten powerloss, please get the reflash when your nearby dealer has it available.

Remember that the powerloss symptoms occur around 4,000 rpm. The power dropoff after 5500rpm is more of a tuning/turbo sizing issue.
 

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I cannot get my car to go into powerloss. I've taken it to the redline at each shift. I've dropped the clutch. I've floored it up hill on a mid-70 degree day.

I mean I wouldn't be surprised if it happened, but it hasn't. A few days ago it was near 80 around here as we had a mini heatwave. Yet the engine still pulled like a champ.
 
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