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My Mazda dealership adds Terraclean Oil Treatment when getting oil change, has anybody else used this product?
I'm not so concerned with the added $15 cost but if it does more harm.



Service advisor says;

  • Reduces friction and engine wear
  • Resists sludging and improves all oils
  • Prevents oxidization
  • Safe for use with gasoline and diesel engines

Adding it to new oil during an oil change also gives you extra life time warranty on internal engine components . Covering costs of repairs up too $4000 after your warranty expires .
 

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This treatment is nothing more than a way for the dealer to make money.

Have they given you this warranty in writing? I'd bet Mazda would deny any warranty on your engine if it fails if they find out you've added this.

I would NEVER allow any additive to be added to my engine.
 

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Not necessary - I wouldn't do it personally. Just use a good oil (IE. Not 0W20 or Mobil 1), change oil on time and I see no reason why you would need any sort of oil treatment.

I used Shell Rotella 5W40, a good diesel oil for one oil change interval in my BMW (Naturally aspirated Inline-6) with very good results for cleaning the engine's crankcase. The vehicle has roughly 130K KM on it. The oil filter on these BMW's is not encased in metal - Before using this diesel oil the oil filter came out disgusting - all clogged up with shit and just not clean. After Rotella the filter came out far cleaner. with zero sludge. I mention this because Mazda's use about the same amount of oil as BMW (which is quite more than average) except Mazda's oil filter is about Half the size. However, Mazda's 2.5L is DI while my BMW is port injected. Port does not dilute the fuel as much meaning the gasoline acts as a detergent and should help sludge - In theory. However too much of a detergent substance in your crankcase will obviously damage metal inside your engine hence why fuel dilution can be serious. Whether your engine will get dirty with higher mileage it is hard to say unless you cut open the metal casing in our oil filters to look inside. The only thing I can really suggest to all this is always change your engine oil on time with DI motors. Especially considering we use 0W20 here in north america which is roughly the same viscosity at 5W40 after 8000KM of use, This is all certainly something to consider when it comes to using the correct oil.

There are oils out there such as Motul which is thicker and has crucial additives for DI motors to help strengthen the engine oils ability for resisting fuel-shear. Just look for an engine oil that has additives/properties specially formulated to reduce shearing.
 

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^^^ People - more garbage spewed.^^^ We do not drive BMW's nor is this a BMW forum. Please do not use Diesel oil.

Also, the Mazda OEM oil filter is an excellent filter. Size does not matter when it comes to filters, it comes down to the internals.
 

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My Mazda dealership adds Terraclean Oil Treatment when getting oil change, has anybody else used this product?
I'm not so concerned with the added $15 cost but if it does more harm.



Service advisor says;

  • Reduces friction and engine wear
  • Resists sludging and improves all oils
  • Prevents oxidization
  • Safe for use with gasoline and diesel engines

Adding it to new oil during an oil change also gives you extra life time warranty on internal engine components . Covering costs of repairs up too $4000 after your warranty expires .
Sounds like BS to me. A healthy engine needs no extra additives. A decent oil has any additives the engine wants. I would say no to that and even be a little wary of that dealer.
 

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At the end of the day as long as you stay on top of your Oil change log, use the correct oil (Non-diesel) & oil grade, then you should be perfectly fine. Nothing wrong with Mobil 1, I've ran many cars with it & zero issues. So don't get sucked into a dealership scam on "Additives" or people misleading you with incorrect information & rambling on about their personal experiments with cars that aren't MAZDA.
 

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Never use such things and don't let anyone else put them in your engine. There is no possible way to know what the chemistry of those additives will do in combination with the additive package in any given specific oil; you're playing "chemistry lab" with your engine which is an extraordinarily bad idea.

Any decent 0w20 oil is not only perfectly fine but should produce near-zero UOA wear metals over a normal change interval. I have a slew of results that factually show this. One thing I do recommend and do myself is to use the OE filter; my local dealer offers "4 for 3" on those which means I wind up paying about $25 for four filters; there's simply no reason to buy aftermarket and get unknown filtering quality with the OE's available at a reasonable price and I have the UOA results showing that Mazda did a good job in their oil filter design.
 

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Never use such things and don't let anyone else put them in your engine. There is no possible way to know what the chemistry of those additives will do in combination with the additive package in any given specific oil; you're playing "chemistry lab" with your engine which is an extraordinarily bad idea.

Any decent 0w20 oil is not only perfectly fine but should produce near-zero UOA wear metals over a normal change interval. I have a slew of results that factually show this. One thing I do recommend and do myself is to use the OE filter; my local dealer offers "4 for 3" on those which means I wind up paying about $25 for four filters; there's simply no reason to buy aftermarket and get unknown filtering quality with the OE's available at a reasonable price and I have the UOA results showing that Mazda did a good job in their oil filter design.
A couple UOA' on One engine is not a "slew" of results. It's actually quite the opposite. If we got more people to do UOA reports on engines with worse metal wear values than yours, ones that burned oil, etc. and the report was able to prove that 0W20 is good for engines that aren't in as good shape as yours, then I would be convinced. Otherwise, no showing that an engine with perfect metal wear values is operating just fine on 0W20 means nothing.

An engine with less than perfect metal wear values in particular (IE. consuming oil) Would very much so benefit from thicker oil.
 

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Not necessary - I wouldn't do it personally. Just use a good oil (IE. Not 0W20 or Mobil 1), change oil on time and I see no reason why you would need any sort of oil treatment.

I used Shell Rotella 5W40, a good diesel oil
I know you swear by using a different oil than recommended, and that's fine if you do that to your own engine. Anyone inside the warranty period should stick to a 0w-20. If something happened to your engine and you were using a different oil "because a guy on the Internet told me to", I guarantee they would void your warranty.

Never use such things and don't let anyone else put them in your engine. There is no possible way to know what the chemistry of those additives will do in combination with the additive package in any given specific oil; you're playing "chemistry lab" with your engine which is an extraordinarily bad idea.

Any decent 0w20 oil is not only perfectly fine but should produce near-zero UOA wear metals over a normal change interval. I have a slew of results that factually show this. One thing I do recommend and do myself is to use the OE filter; my local dealer offers "4 for 3" on those which means I wind up paying about $25 for four filters; there's simply no reason to buy aftermarket and get unknown filtering quality with the OE's available at a reasonable price and I have the UOA results showing that Mazda did a good job in their oil filter design.
Tickerguy knows what's up.
 

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I know you swear by using a different oil than recommended, and that's fine if you do that to your own engine. Anyone inside the warranty period should stick to a 0w-20. If something happened to your engine and you were using a different oil "because a guy on the Internet told me to", I guarantee they would void your warranty.
No, I swear by using oils which are recommended everywhere in the world except for North America...

The suggestion to use diesel oil was for one oil interval oil, just to clean out a higher mileage crankcase. Otherwise it is obviously never good to run diesel oils for extended periods of time.
 

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I don't know why people over-think oil. It is really, really simple.

Step 1: open the owner's manual
Step 2: follow the manufacturer-recommended oil spec and use an OE filter

Unless you have some very specific operating requirements or run the engine in a unique environment, the only possible value in finding an alternative oil or filter is $. Assuming they still meet Step 2.

If Terraclean or whatever was truly safe and effective at reducing wear, every oil manufacturer would be using it.

If Rotella or Terraclean were safe and effective for gasoline engines, even just for one use, why wouldn't Mazda put it in their maintenance schedule? "Use Rotella every 30k miles"

Anecdotes are not useful data.
 

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If Rotella or Terraclean were safe and effective for gasoline engines, even just for one use, why wouldn't Mazda put it in their maintenance schedule? "Use Rotella every 30k miles"

Anecdotes are not useful data.
Ancedote's aren't always useful, but it isn't always useless either.

Because Mazda except every owner to change their oil on time, religiously. I am willing to bet not everyone does.

an engine with 150, 200K, 300K miles with oil changes that we're just slightly overdue for it's whole life will more than likely have at least some sludge buildup in the crankcase. This really is only something for higher mileage owners to consider.

Someone should start cutting open our oil filters and take a look inside. Hell I will do it myself if I remember to. I am due for an oil change.
 

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The Mazda OEM oil filter is an excellent filter. Size does not matter when it comes to filters, it comes down to the internals.
And how do you know this? Have you cut open the metal casing and looked at the internals before coming to this conclusion? Or did you just read this somewhere? I agree with you on your comment of the internals, but you just don't know. How does the surface area not matter? You astound me. So a filter with good internals that is twice the size of a regular Mazda filter isn't going to be twice as effective according to your theory?

Then you go on to claim that I am "spewing garbage" trying to shoot down all of my posts.

Astounding.
 

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And how do you know this? Have you cut open the metal casing and looked at the internals before coming to this conclusion? Or did you just read this somewhere? I agree with you on your comment of the internals, but you just don't know. How does the surface area not matter? You astound me. So a filter with good internals that is twice the size of a regular Mazda filter isn't going to be twice as effective according to your theory?

Then you go on to claim that I am "spewing garbage" trying to shoot down all of my posts.

Astounding.
The only thing astounding is your repeated posts of stupidity because you've read it on the internet somewhere.

If I post something in regards to the topic it is from experience. Not hearsay.

Quit posting about BMW's. We are a Mazda forum. Your PI engine does not mean anything in regards to our DI engines. To suggest someone, anyone with a petrol engine should use a Diesel oil is nothing short of stupidity.
 

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If I post something in regards to the topic it is from experience. Not hearsay.
Right, says the guy who suggests Motul isn't a good oil without basing your terrible opinion on experience, or any sort of research, or even some sort of hearsay. You really are something special aren't you?

I don't see what you've said that makes you feel like you can talk down on other people's opinions.I'm not sure if it's just an ego issue or something, but you have simply no authority to do so. I strongly suggest you stop making yourself look like a hypocritical fool and start to be a little bit more polite from here on out, because It's starting to get very annoying.
 

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Right, says the guy who suggests Motul isn't a good oil without basing your terrible opinion on experience, or any sort of research, or even some sort of hearsay. You really are something special aren't you?

I don't see what you've said that makes you feel like you can talk down on other people's opinions.I'm not sure if it's just an ego issue or something, but you have simply no authority to do so. I strongly suggest you stop making yourself look like a hypocritical fool and start to be a little bit more polite from here on out, because It's starting to get very annoying.
Lets be clear. I don't really care what you think or say. Anyone suggesting they use diesel oil in their gas engine has lost all credibility. "I strongly suggest" you stop making ridiculous statements and suggestions that are complete stupidity.

Good work on twisting my words around. Regarding your exceptionally high priced oil, I said:

"I'm involved and participate in all things oil. Yes I have done research and stand by exactly what I said. No, your recommendation is not worth every last penny.

Your recommended oil does not have the same specifications and is simply not as good of an oil for the 2.5T engine ESPECIALLY for the money".


I'm talking about the same specifications as the oils that are simply better for the 2.5T engine. That would be the Mazda engine I'm talking about.

Done with you stupid nonsense.
 

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Not necessary - I wouldn't do it personally. Just use a good oil (IE. Not 0W20 or Mobil 1), change oil on time and I see no reason why you would need any sort of oil treatment.

I used Shell Rotella 5W40, a good diesel oil for one oil change interval in my BMW (Naturally aspirated Inline-6) with very good results for cleaning the engine's crankcase. The vehicle has roughly 130K KM on it. The oil filter on these BMW's is not encased in metal - Before using this diesel oil the oil filter came out disgusting - all clogged up with shit and just not clean. After Rotella the filter came out far cleaner. with zero sludge. I mention this because Mazda's use about the same amount of oil as BMW (which is quite more than average) except Mazda's oil filter is about Half the size. However, Mazda's 2.5L is DI while my BMW is port injected. Port does not dilute the fuel as much meaning the gasoline acts as a detergent and should help sludge - In theory. However too much of a detergent substance in your crankcase will obviously damage metal inside your engine hence why fuel dilution can be serious. Whether your engine will get dirty with higher mileage it is hard to say unless you cut open the metal casing in our oil filters to look inside. The only thing I can really suggest to all this is always change your engine oil on time with DI motors. Especially considering we use 0W20 here in north america which is roughly the same viscosity at 5W40 after 8000KM of use, This is all certainly something to consider when it comes to using the correct oil.

There are oils out there such as Motul which is thicker and has crucial additives for DI motors to help strengthen the engine oils ability for resisting fuel-shear. Just look for an engine oil that has additives/properties specially formulated to reduce shearing.
You are advocating for using a diesel oil in our cars?
Sorry, you are nuts.
 
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