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Im chasing down some odd vibration from the front suspension that occurs around 40-55 mph. It feels like the wheels are rapidly turning left and right when on a smooth surface. I can feel it on the floorboard and a slightly faster pitched vibration in the steering wheel. I replaced everything chasing this down including tires and tie rod ends (twice). My only guess is its the taper bore in the upper ball joint or the taper bore in the tie rod end mount. Both mounts come apart too easily when i took them apart to put in new subframe bushings. The hole for the cotter pin is at least a quarter inch past the top of the castle nut when it is torqued down to specs.

Im at the end of my rope with this car.
 

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Both mounts come apart too easily when i took them apart to put in new subframe bushings. The hole for the cotter pin is at least a quarter inch past the top of the castle nut when it is torqued down to specs.
Sounds like you solved your problem.
Try to find the correct tie rod ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If anyone is following this t. Head on over to my 200,000 mile suspension rebuild thread as i continue the adventure!
 

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Im chasing down some odd vibration from the front suspension that occurs around 40-55 mph. It feels like the wheels are rapidly turning left and right when on a smooth surface. I can feel it on the floorboard and a slightly faster pitched vibration in the steering wheel. I replaced everything chasing this down including tires and tie rod ends (twice). My only guess is its the taper bore in the upper ball joint or the taper bore in the tie rod end mount. Both mounts come apart too easily when i took them apart to put in new subframe bushings. The hole for the cotter pin is at least a quarter inch past the top of the castle nut when it is torqued down to specs.

Im at the end of my rope with this car.
It could be your tie rod ends, or the upper ball joints. But I think it more likely that they were too loose when installed and have worn the tapered bores in your suspension uprights by moving around. The metal for those ball joints is much harder than that used in the uprights. If the bores have worn, you'll never be able to tighten them properly again. Loc-tite or similar measures won't work. The only practical solution is replace the uprights. Luckily, they shouldn't be too expensive from salvage.

How do I know this? Experience.
 
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