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Discussion Starter #1
So for anyone that may not have splurged on the tech package but wants to improve their sound quality, the obvious solution is to replace the existing door speakers. If you want to take it even further and go for real sound quality, you should also replace the stock HU and add an external amp.
While it is fully possible to still utilize the stock speaker wiring with an external amp, you'll maximize the benefit of adding all your new gear by also running new speaker wire.
Unfortunately on this car it's not a straight-forward task. After trying everything I could to avoid doing it, I took the project on the other day and found that it wasn't all so bad with the right tools. Note there may be an easier way of doing this, but this is my way and it worked for me. I welcome any comments if someone has a better idea.

Tools required -
flathead screwdriver
drill
drill right angle attachment Amazon.com: DEWALT DWARA100 Right Angle Attachment: Home Improvement

stubby drill bits [ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JEOIHW[/ame]

a 2" bit extension (not exactly 2", just something that makes the stubby bit slightly longer

Plus speaker wire of course. I would not recommend going lower than 16 gauge unless you want to make your life unnecessarily difficult.

Step 1 -
Set up your drill with the right angle attachment, the bit extension & the stubby bit. I can't remember what exact bit I used but you can see it in the picture. You obviously need something wide enough to fit 2 16 gauge speaker wires through.


step 2 -
Peel back the rubber boot around the door side of your wire loom that connects the door to your vehicle. It's quite easy if you peel it back with a small flathead screwdriver. I did not take a pic of this as it is very easy and straightforward. The goal is to fully expose the plastic molex door connector.

step 3 -
With your door swung fully open, squeeze in your drill with the 90 degree attachment and your stubby bit. It is important you have that small bit extension as well, as without it you can't drill all the way through the molex connector (and if you try to use a normal bit it would be way too long).
It's a tight fit but it will make it. Point the bit at the top right-hand side of the molex. There is a large bare surface area above the wires that is a perfect spot to poke a hole. (my door is a little ugly from past failed attempts trying to do this)


step 4 -
drill the hole and run your wire through! Once you've done this the worst part is over and the rest is easy. Note that the front driver side door the wire will be a huge pain to reach on the car side. I recommend using long grabber or a shop vac to suck the wire through to the drivers seat. The rest of the doors are way easier and once you're through the molex you can just grab the wire by hand.


step 5 -
Now you need to get the wire into the door. You need to remove the door panel (just 2 screws, I can explain further if people need help here), remove the weather stripping around the wire loom, peel back the rubber boot to expose the wire loom, and un-snap the wire tray on the door. A small flathead makes this task easy. The wire tray just snaps together so don't worry about breaking anything.


step 6 -
Now with the boot and the wire tray all pulled back, you can simply slide your speaker wire through and group it in with the existing wires. After that you can snap the wire tray back together & put the rubber boot & weather stripping back on. It should all fit just as nicely as before.


step 7 -
Your new speaker wire is right where it needs to be. Just hook it up to your speaker, and run the other side to your amp, wherever you managed to put it. Then put everything back into place, and your car will look how it did before you ever touched it. I did find the rubber boot on the door side isn't as snug as it was originally, but the purpose is mainly to keep water out, so as long as it stays on it's not a problem. Here it is all buttoned up -



Hope some others here find this useful. For me this was a major hurdle in finishing my upgraded sound build, since I wanted to do it right, but was put off by the complication of getting through the molex. This method turned out to be really simple. Hardest is the front driver side door, once you get that one done you can fly through the rest. I had all my wires ran & speakers hooked up between 2 to 3 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
and for anyone curious, here is what my system looks like. I just recently finished it up and haven't had time to vacuum the trunk but this is it.





2 amps & a 10" sub ran through a minidsp 6x8. It's not pretty but 99% of the time I ride alone as this is just my work commute car so I don't care how it really looks as long as it sounds good (the dynamat is especially sloppy... but after the amount of hours I spent setting the rest of the system up I stopped caring by that point lol. may go back & clean up more later who knows)
I have 8" focals in the front & 6.5" rockford fosgates in the rear. It's a fully active setup and I have it crossed over & eq'ed through my dsp. Still needs more tinkering but it's coming along nicely. Massive improvement over stock. The 8" fronts + the 10" sub gives the system a ton of clean bass. Not rattling doors just nice and punchy.
 

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Great write-up! I've been looking to do something for my front door speaker wire but haven't gotten around to it. This may just be the answer.

Couple questions:
Is your 6 a 2016?
Was the passenger's side a similar situation?
I had pulled back the boot on the car's passenger side once and it was a royal pain to get it to re-seat around the Molex (but very important I believe because water can come down that part of the car). It looks like the rim of your drivers' side Molex was damaged - any tips to avoid the same fate?

On a side note, I was happy to find that my local Home Depot has the tools you linked for almost the same price as Amazon - I may just go pick them up :)
 

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About the Molex on the car body side, what I am wondering is if there is a way to pull it out completely from the car without needing to access it from inside the car or remove the door. There are a few tabs on the inner/recessed area which secure it into the metal but I wasn't able to "free" all of them when I tried. I think by pulling the Molex out it should be possible to get the rubber boot back on without a fuss, then snap the Molex back in.

EDIT: right angle pick set mentioned here for popping the Molex out: http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f434/full-audio-install-deadening-pictures-42530/
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I read about people taking the molex completely out. But I read from people that tried that that they couldn't get it to seat nicely all the way back in after they did that. And of course, doing what I did, I didn't need to remove the door. Drilling the hole is a very quick process. Are you saying to do that to get the boot to fit snugly back in place? For me, I got the boot on just fine, but there is a slight bit of play at the bottom of the connector. I played with it for a while but left it as is. It should still do the job of keeping water out just fine.

I did damage the molex on the driver side door a bit due to a previous failed attempt to penetrate it (lol), as I stated in my first post. It had nothing to do with my method I showed in my write-up. If you do it right you'll have a clean hole, no fuss.

The driver side door is tough to access on the door side as I mentioned, but the rest are easy. Passenger side just requires you to remove the glove box (it just clips in, very easy to remove), and you can actually grab the other side of the molex with your hands, though it is tight.

I was a bit hesitant to post this since I realize it comes off as a bit sloppy, but I figure if someone learns from the mistakes that I made, they can make this a clean job and do it right :)

Keep us updated if you decide to do this. Curious how this goes for others.
 

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Yeah I was thinking of taking the Molex out for a couple reasons:

- so I can see what I'm drilling through (on the other side). From your experience, maybe there is nothing on the other side (i.e. no wires to get tangled as the drill bit goes thru)? Do you just need to drill through the plastic piece that we see in the picture, or are there multiple pieces to that Molex? How far to drill into?
- someone posted on another forum about putting the rubber boot on while the Molex was out and the Molex just snapped back into the opening. Now that you have mentioned others having an issue with seating after doing that I am having 2nd thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
with the stubby bit you aren't going to drill into anything you're not expecting to. The molex is just an interconnect for the wiring... as long as you drill above the wires you're fine. You just drill through the single plastic piece and that's it. It's got a fair bit of depth to it so once you're through you've just about used the entire bit. If you're worried peak your head in with a flashlight. You can see the other side of the molex from inside the car if you angle it right.

I forgot where I read it but I did research it and read about people having problems getting the molex back in, to where they complained it wasn't snapping back together right. If you follow my method you avoid all of that, and it's way faster and easier.

btw i have a 2014 touring.
 

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Finally got the time & guts to tinker with the front door wiring.

I've got a 2016 Touring and here is what I discovered:

The Molex connectors in the front door jambs actually have a little opening already (the top front portion), just large enough to accommodate the 16-ga speaker wire I got from Home Depot on my supplies run. (for the driver's side door jamb, the opening is at the top rear portion (i.e. closer to the door opening)
Given this, no drilling is necessary.

I put the wire through from the door jamb side into the kickpanel area. From there, I used the pin with the hook-shape end (see pics below) to snag it out from behind the CPU in the passenger's side kickpanel. The driver's side was easier as there is a direct line-of sight; I had to keep feeding the wire into the passengers side until I saw it peep out.

For me, it was easiest to use a 2nd piece of the speaker wire and sneak it through the door side of the boot, mate it up with the wire I'd just guided through into the car with electrical tape, and gently tug/push from both sides to get the wire to come out of the door side of the boot.

I was able to re-attach the boot around the Molex by using right-angle pick to push each of the 4 pins in the Molex, and keep constant pressure to pull the Molex out. It can come out about 1" or so, which is enough to stretch the boot around. The pressure tabs are at approx. 1-o'clock, 5-o'clock, 7-o'clock and 11-o'clock. The Molex then does snap back into place without fuss.

I clipped and taped the OEM speaker connectors on the doors and soldered my wires into place. (I'd drilled holes in the speaker adapters I made for my Dynaudio MW172's)

Took about 1 hour for each side to run the wires and solder (I'd done the door speaker installation previously so not included in time spent).

Items needed:
- Multi-bit ratchet screwdriver
- Pick set (see picture)
- 10ft of 16-ga speaker wire (enough to run from door speaker to inside of kickpanel area for each side)
- Electrical tape, soldering iron, solder, 1/4" heat shrink, lighter
- Wire cutters/strippers
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Good job! Glad I could inspire you to take this on. You saw the damage I did to my molex connector was actually from trying to get my wire through that little opening you used. I saw it too and went nuts and damaged the corner in the process. Settled on drilling, but it sounds like you can squeeze a wire through that opening if you have the right tools.

I'm sure it feels great to have that over with. It certainly bothered me for the longest time I was using stock vehicle wiring in my "premium" audio setup.
 

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Any chance that the pics that were previously linked in this thread are still floating around? Trying to accomplish this myself but it’s pretty hard without pics!
 
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