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Discussion Starter #1
Ever since I bought the 6 it has been a future mod I have wanted to do . Coming from the world of Mustangs , sub-frame connectors , among other suspension parts (strut-tower brace , G-Load brace under engine) , is a must have . I have the Kenny Browns subs + G-Load brace + strut tower brace on my Cobra so I know .

Now I've done a search and only one thread has come up , to my surprise , and it's outdated ..... so maybe a rekindled interest and some up-to-date info will sprout up from this thread and this link to the old one : http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?show...0conectors&st=0

I'd like some feedback
 

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Discussion Starter #4
subframe connectors were described very well in the above link I gave as follows :

To explain this very basicly, our cars are held together in the middle by nothing more than the floor pan. Look under you car, follow the front subframe from the firewal reward, it stops just past the middle of the car. Then what do you know, there is no "frame" until the rear subframe starts. This is the single most flexibe part of the chasis. This causes issues like the rear suspesion not tracking true to the front, just imagine that the front and rear of the car are held together with the sheet metal of the roof and floor pan. The subframe connectors are a "frame extension" making the front and rear of the car become one!

so we're not talking between the wheels driver-to-passenger ; but frame-to-frame (front-to-back)
6GunRocket , what do you say ? Are those available from you .... or somewhere else ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OH YEAH !!! the 4:10 will give you that punch for sure :yesnod: I have the same Nittos too :)

MM : Maximum Motorsports :yesnod: I have the Caster Camber Plates from'em ... these guys know their stuff and pioneered the c/c as I'm sure you're aware .... the subs will control more that umph you put in it for sure ! ...... man I need subs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Way back when Donny and I (and FireTech) started RPM, subframe connectors were considered. Interest at the time was absolutely nil. Even now I'm sure there's not enough demand to have them produced. Best bet would be one-offs made by yourself or someone like 6GunRocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Seems to me that 'lack of awareness' about the virtues of subframe connectors has a lot to do with lack of interest for the subject

So let me add this to what was already said about subs as a major factor that should make you put them on to your 6 and any car for that matter :

Your car is nice and stiff when bought brand new .... beauty !

As it gets put through its paces of everyday abuse .... well it softens its rigidity and 'gives' more and more

To maintain that solidity of 'new' to your frame YOU NEED TO PUT SUBS THE SOONER THE BETTER and benefit from all the 'tight' handling .... add to this crash safety solidity :)

If you do it to your 6 with strut braces between the wheels , then its all the same and just as important ... if not more to put subs considering how easy that floor pan is easier to flex than a a K-Member (between front wheels) !!!
 

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Way back when Donny and I (and FireTech) started RPM, subframe connectors were considered. Interest at the time was absolutely nil. Even now I'm sure there's not enough demand to have them produced. Best bet would be one-offs made by yourself or someone like 6GunRocket.
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I'd be willing to make this with the commitment of 10 or more members. And I really wouldn't call my parts "one-offs". They're more like "products".
 

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i did cc's from upr, and got the new released 4 bolt ones. it makes me sick to see the amount of stuff out there for my stang. and thats part of the reason i got it. as the 6 market is rather small, uncommital, and not willing to spend the cash. so, i have done a ton to my 6, and am coming to a point to where its not bolt on mods, and thats what i love to do. thus, the mustang. and i will never run out of bolt on mods for it. ever. :D
 

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I'd be willing to make this with the commitment of 10 or more members. And I really wouldn't call my parts "one-offs". They're more like "products".
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im willing to pay for these sub fram connectors...as long as the price isnt bad...bad meaning 600 bucks like the autoexe ones at corksport. but somewhere to the lines of gt spec products.
 

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im willing to pay for these sub fram connectors...as long as the price isnt bad...bad meaning 600 bucks like the autoexe ones at corksport. but somewhere to the lines of gt spec products.
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 6 is a uni-body chassis. Subframe connectors and for cars where there are two distinct and separate chassis halfs joined by the floor pan. If you look under your 6, you will see the frame rails run from the front to the rear of the car, all one piece. On a Mustang or Camaro, the frame stops below the front seats and starts aging in front of the rear wheels. The subframe connectors fill in the middle. There is nothing to fill in on the 6 subframe. Chassis braces are another story and there may indeed be some benefit to those.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 6 is a uni-body chassis. Subframe connectors and for cars where there are two distinct and separate chassis halfs joined by the floor pan. If you look under your 6, you will see the frame rails run from the front to the rear of the car, all one piece. On a Mustang or Camaro, the frame stops below the front seats and starts aging in front of the rear wheels. The subframe connectors fill in the middle. There is nothing to fill in on the 6 subframe. Chassis braces are another story and there may indeed be some benefit to those.
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Ok here is the story with these...I'm not going to make them. The chassis is uni-body and if you guys look, there are very strong connectors underneath the 6 out of the factory. Even if you guys did want aftermarket connectors, which is completely unnecessary, the only way to get them to stay would be to weld them on.
 

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Yes, had subframe connectors on my 89, the difference in traction was enormous when putting down near 500hp. BUT that wasn't an Uni-body, these would be completly useless on a 6

i did cc's from upr, and got the new released 4 bolt ones. it makes me sick to see the amount of stuff out there for my stang. and thats part of the reason i got it. as the 6 market is rather small, uncommital, and not willing to spend the cash. so, i have done a ton to my 6, and am coming to a point to where its not bolt on mods, and thats what i love to do. thus, the mustang. and i will never run out of bolt on mods for it. ever. :D
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Exactly :yesnod: built a mid 10 second car for less than $7,000 :zzz: although the 6 is 10x funner to drive on curves
 

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got the mm unpainted set. and damn. what a difference. :D of course the 4.10's and nitto 555r's that i recently added helped alot too. i love the feeling of getting punched in the chest from hard acceleration!
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arent 4/10s rediculously lwo for a mustang.... most of the time you are out of first gear ( with a t5) befoe the 60' mark on the 1/4

most of my friens that got them got rid of them soon after cause they were shifting into 5th gear right before the end of the 1/4 and not gaining any speed
 

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agreed, when i am doing turning stuff, i want the six, especially now with rb sways front and back. but if straight line is all i am doing, i want the stang. :D

as for the gears, i love em. have not taken it to the track yet, but i do not see that being an issue with my car, as it has the t-45. and the gears are flat out awesome, even on the freeway. sure, it is at alot higher rpm everywhere, but when i accelerate from a dead stop with the nitto 555r's, its a beautiful thing. :D and when i am worried about gas milage, i just remember that i can drive the 6. ;)
 
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