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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought:
2) RE Audio SEX12D4 Subwoofers + (1) XT2000DEv2 Amplifier + StreetWires PSK04B 4 Gauge Amp Kit (#81559): 1
Item Total: $448.15

Ground Shaker SQP212 12" Dual Slot Ported Box (#80983): 1
Item Total: $88.15

TKO Audio BH-CAP18 1.0 Farad Digital Capacitor (#79590): 1
Item Total: $39.00


For my 2006 mazdaspeed6. I am still debating on getting an aftermarket HU. But from all
these other forum posts I have read that if you replace the stock HU you need to replace the
Speakers and amp or something? Can someone fill me in on this? :huh:
 

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I just bought:
2) RE Audio SEX12D4 Subwoofers + (1) XT2000DEv2 Amplifier + StreetWires PSK04B 4 Gauge Amp Kit (#81559): 1
Item Total: $448.15

Ground Shaker SQP212 12" Dual Slot Ported Box (#80983): 1
Item Total: $88.15

TKO Audio BH-CAP18 1.0 Farad Digital Capacitor (#79590): 1
Item Total: $39.00


For my 2006 mazdaspeed6. I am still debating on getting an aftermarket HU. But from all
these other forum posts I have read that if you replace the stock HU you need to replace the
Speakers and amp or something? Can someone fill me in on this? :huh:
If you replace the HU, you do not need to replace the speakers and the amp. But you have to have both the speakers and amp, amp wont work with other speakers and speakers wont work with other amp. (On the Bose system)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay, well I think I am going to try out the setup I have above and just hook up the sub/amp and keep the stock HU with the stock amp/speakers. (for now) Does this setup look good? Will it work? Sure damn hope so :(

I have searched, can anyone link to me a guide on installing the aftermarket sub/amp to the stock amp/HU?
 

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The line outputs from the HU are balanced connections meaning they have plus and minus audio signals (not audio signal plus ground). So check your amp and see if it accepts balanced inputs. Otherwise you may need a line out converter. Worst case you can use just the postive signal and use ground but do not ground the minus signal from the HU you may damage the HU. The sub is a little tricky because it is driven from the Bose amplifier. I just connected my sub to the front L/R signals. The wire diagrams should be in the sticky posts in this forum.
 

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I just bought:
2) RE Audio SEX12D4 Subwoofers + (1) XT2000DEv2 Amplifier + StreetWires PSK04B 4 Gauge Amp Kit (#81559): 1
Item Total: $448.15

Ground Shaker SQP212 12" Dual Slot Ported Box (#80983): 1
Item Total: $88.15

TKO Audio BH-CAP18 1.0 Farad Digital Capacitor (#79590): 1
Item Total: $39.00


For my 2006 mazdaspeed6. I am still debating on getting an aftermarket HU. But from all
these other forum posts I have read that if you replace the stock HU you need to replace the
Speakers and amp or something? Can someone fill me in on this? :huh:
you don't have to but i will sound a lot better.
 

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I just hooked up an aftermarket amp and subs today on my 06 speed6. I tried tapping into the bose sub signals but they were soo weak I could barely hear anything through my new subs. I ended up tapping into the left rear signal wires at the bose amp, under the passenger seat. I used a wire diagram I found somewhere on this site, it was a pdf file. The worst part was unplugging, and plugging the harness back into the bose amp, not much room under the seat.
 

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tapping off the subwoofer makes for a shitty signal if your picky. i couldnt take it personally, and after a week re-wired it to under the passenger seat where the amp is. just wired it pre-amp. nice a flat audio source. perfect for subwoofers.
 

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tapping off the subwoofer makes for a shitty signal if your picky. i couldnt take it personally, and after a week re-wired it to under the passenger seat where the amp is. just wired it pre-amp. nice a flat audio source. perfect for subwoofers.
Did you use pre-made RCA plugs? I made some yesterday, and connected them to the RR and LR wires on the Bose amp under the seat and didn't get anything.
 

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I attached RCA plugs to the FL, FR, RL, and RR (4 plugs) so I could completely bypass the bose amp and run the signal from the headunit to my amp.

Are you sure you connected them properly? There should be a pair of wires in each plug, 4 plugs total, so 8 wires. Since you used only the right channels... you should have soldered:

RR:the green with silver dash to the center pin of the RCA plug, and the black with silver dash wire to the outer pin. And follow the same thing for each plug you want to do.
 

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I have heard from professional sound shops this is complicated on the Speed 6 when upgrading. Make sure you also have a fuse on your 4 ga wire before battery.
 

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I have heard from professional sound shops this is complicated on the Speed 6 when upgrading. Make sure you also have a fuse on your 4 ga wire before battery.
What exactly is complicated?

And the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible, battery->short 4 gauge run-> fuse-> longer 4 gauge to amp/distro block. This would apply to any size wire and if possible, you can use something like mine where my battery terminals have a built fuse (aftermarket battery terminals).
 

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I attached RCA plugs to the FL, FR, RL, and RR (4 plugs) so I could completely bypass the bose amp and run the signal from the headunit to my amp.

Are you sure you connected them properly? There should be a pair of wires in each plug, 4 plugs total, so 8 wires. Since you used only the right channels... you should have soldered:

RR:the green with silver dash to the center pin of the RCA plug, and the black with silver dash wire to the outer pin. And follow the same thing for each plug you want to do.
What kind of RCAs did you use? Did you just cut up some old ones?
 

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You can do that. I just went to radioshack and got a pack of RCA plugs (they twist open) and soldered the wires to the plugs
 

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I have heard from professional sound shops this is complicated on the Speed 6 when upgrading. Make sure you also have a fuse on your 4 ga wire before battery.


How do you know all this BigAlDJ?
 

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What exactly is complicated?

And the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible, battery->short 4 gauge run-> fuse-> longer 4 gauge to amp/distro block. This would apply to any size wire and if possible, you can use something like mine where my battery terminals have a built fuse (aftermarket battery terminals).
nothing is complicated. shops tell people things are complicated so they can charge more money.
 

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nothing is complicated. shops tell people things are complicated so they can charge more money.
^ Exactly.

Pretty much all of the basic steps to upgrading an audio system, anyone can do. As long as you read up a little bit on wiring and replacing speakers, it's easy.

Fabrication is the difficult part that not everyone can do, or has the time and/or tools to do it. I feel that would be the only reason to use a shop but I've found that a lot of shops, around me at least, do not do custom work. Only swapping speakers/hu or dropping a pre-fab box with 15's in your trunk and charging you $$$ for something you can do yourself.
 

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You need to tap FR and FL not rear. Dont be suprised if it sounds like shit after your install. I finally got my system sounding decent after 3 years of work. In the end I changed it to an active setup with the JBL MS-8. But I recomend getting some sort of tuning device or an aftermarket HU.
 

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You need to tap FR and FL not rear. Dont be suprised if it sounds like shit after your install.
That applies to the non-Bose system.
 

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I would apply it to any system, but you may be right I dont remeber. I would still only tap into the fronts just cause...
 
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