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Discussion Starter #1
Alright, I'm only running about 2000 watts rms, but I want to add under car lights, interior lights, and an in-dash video screen. Rigth now I have just the stock battery and my lights barely dim, but I just want a stronger battery just in case. I've read many threads about the Optima batteries, but I'm not too thrilled because I've heard they die alot. So I heard about Kinetik. The one I'm looking at is the Kinetik HC 1800. I want to use this as my primary or only battery in my car because its like 50 or 60 lbs. Here's the website: http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc1800.asp. Can anyone tell if it might be enough for my electrical system, or will I need to add other components? I really don't want to mess with the alternator.
 

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Optima, Hands down. Spendy but worth it. As far as that site I don't know how good those are. Also I would suggest one of those power regulating capaciters
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Optima, Hands down. Spendy but worth it. As far as that site I don't know how good those are.
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Optima red top or yellow top, because everybody has a different outlook on those batteries. And will I need to use two of them or just one for all the equipment I want to run?
 

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For the amount of power you are running, you either need two batteries or a good capacitor or both. If you run two, run an isolator so it only gets charged from the alternator, but doesn't get used by the whole car. I would use the Yellow top in your case. Deeper cycle battery, it does better at the continuous discharge that you will need and last you a lot longer.

I ran two in a diesel drag-truck I had with a large bi-amped system for almost two years, not once did I have a problem. The shows I went to loved me because I could run my system all afternoon/night/day, and then go down the rows and jump cars off two at a time...lol.
 

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"Only 2000 watts" lol...

Thats a lot... For an every day REAL stereo... There are show cars and special case vehicles with speakers allover the place and amps out the ass.. with a total amp rating over 5000+ watts.. but those systems don't play non stop during an 8+ hour road trip... and in many cases they have multiple batteries and the car gets plugged in to recharge / run...

But 2000 watts with a decent sized alternator... and decent battery should run fine....

I'm running a steady 1000-1500 watts with my 2 amps (monoblock and 4ch)... on the stock Speed6 battery + alt. The alt in this car is much nicer than what they had in my old Civic... and the batter is much better as well... Honestly unless you listen to crap.. i mean rap.. and slam those subs 24/7 as hard as you can... you should have no issues.... You'll kill the stock battery faster than normal... but replacing that is a lot cheaper than an optima..

A capacitor is a device designed to charge and discharge quickly... Stock car electrical systems can't always provide all the power needed by amps and subs at the instant they want it.. which is where capacitors come in.. HOWEVER.. if you're draining enough power with your system.. they are completely useless... The vehicle can only provide so much power at any given time... and if you're already exceeding that... a capacitor will only give you a few more seconds... minute of added power before its drained... and unless you stop draining the power it won't have time to recharge...
 

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Dont hesitate to pull the trigger on that Kinetic 1800, it is an awesome battery and is far superior to the odyssey as well as the Optima batteries. Kinetic is used by a large majority of car audio competitors and is well known amongst the car audio competition community.

Dont even bother with a cap, it is a band aid for a bigger problem and in most cases causes more damage than it helps. If your power draw is bad enough that your lights dim, spend some money on upgrading your grounds in the engine (aka, the big 3) if still dimming add a bigger or a second battery, if you still have dimming issues look into a bigger alternator.

the big three is cheaper than a capacitor
a second battery is cheaper than a decent capacitor
an alternator is around $400 but usually isnt necessary. (excessive amperage as well as Iraggi alts sells an alt for the "6" for $370 (190 amps)


here is a link to the Big 3 for those interested.

http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimateb...ic;f=5;t=007801
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright so I bought an optima yellow top. I got it for only 150 through a price match with cardomain. Anyway, I'm thinking of running the stock battery with the optima. So should I put the optima in the trunk and use that as the second battery or put the optima under the hood as my primary? I read other threads that said something about using yellow tops as a second battery. But I'm not sure how to do it. I called a car stereo place which said they can do it for $65, but they said nothing about using an isolator. And thats what I understood from the other threads that that's what I need to use for two batteries. So if I just use the two batteries and I have a 3 farad bass cap, should I be alright with electrical? Oh and I don't run 2000 watts all the time, just when someone decides to challenge me...
 

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Alright so I bought an optima yellow top. I got it for only 150 through a price match with cardomain. Anyway, I'm thinking of running the stock battery with the optima. So should I put the optima in the trunk and use that as the second battery or put the optima under the hood as my primary? I read other threads that said something about using yellow tops as a second battery. But I'm not sure how to do it. I called a car stereo place which said they can do it for $65, but they said nothing about using an isolator. And thats what I understood from the other threads that that's what I need to use for two batteries. So if I just use the two batteries and I have a 3 farad bass cap, should I be alright with electrical? Oh and I don't run 2000 watts all the time, just when someone decides to challenge me...
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run the yellow top on it's own, I did that for 3 years in my sunfire, I ran it with a huge gel cell before that. I wouldn't run caps myself, I consider them band aids for electrical issues, but it's your car.
 

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OK, some information here. While the car is running it's using the alternator to give power, not the battery. Upgrading the battery won't overcome a lack of amperage from the alternator. Dual batteries will only allow you to listen to the stereo with the car off for a while longer.
Also a higher output alternator will be able to maintain 14.4V (15-16V if your accessories can handle it) which will allow your amps to run cooler and have more output.

Just a heads up on this.
What's my background? I helped build the first team gates Bronco (164.9 dB 1996) and my own car took 6th place in the IASCA world finals expert class in 1995.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, some information here. While the car is running it's using the alternator to give power, not the battery. Upgrading the battery won't overcome a lack of amperage from the alternator. Dual batteries will only allow you to listen to the stereo with the car off for a while longer.
Also a higher output alternator will be able to maintain 14.4V (15-16V if your accessories can handle it) which will allow your amps to run cooler and have more output.

Just a heads up on this.
What's my background? I helped build the first team gates Bronco (164.9 dB 1996) and my own car took 6th place in the IASCA world finals expert class in 1995.

Mike
[/quo

Ok so I basically don't want the lights to flicker when the bass hits hard and I don't want any short term electrical issues. So would it be better to just put the yellow top in and leave the car alone or use both batteries? Which option would help my car's electrical system last longer? I don't really wanna do the alt upgrade, at least not yet.
 

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Use the Optima only, when I used to install, people would have problems with lights dimming etc., and we would start with the ground, when you run high power you need a good ground. Also check to see if your wires are the same size, some people used to use 1/0 gauge power wire and 8 gauge ground wire, bad idea, if you have 1/0 gauge power then you should have 1/0 gauge ground wire, and with 2000 watts, I suggest that size or 4 gauge at minimum, I am running 700 watts ( 4x50 & 500 mono all RMS) and use 1/0 gauge wires. The alternator should be the last thing replaced, because in school they told us to start with the cheapest fix and work your way up, because even if its your alternator thats the problem, you are gonna want to change everything else eventually. Plus the capacitors are old school, made back when batteries were just for starting your car, nowadays batteries are made for these high powered systems, and other stuff we put in our cars, I used to have a 2.5 farad cap in my '92 civic, it helped because I was running 4500 watts RMS, 4 1000 watt mono amps and a 4x125, for competiton. But I recently tried it in my truck, and it didn't do sh!t. Oh yeah I also had hydraulics in the civic, so I was running 5 batteries at first, then Optima came out and I only needed 3.
 
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