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I have read what seems to be countless threads on how to do this, and I am still confused. I have a 2006 Mazda 6 S with the Bose sound system. I have two 10” kicker subs and a MTX 1000W amp, I want to install them in my car but I’m not sure what is the best way to go about it. I saw threads saying splice into a black/red wire, and the next one says nothing about this wire. So I’m looking for a straight forward way to install my subs with the best sound quality with the factory unit.
 

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I have read what seems to be countless threads on how to do this, and I am still confused. I have a 2006 Mazda 6 S with the Bose sound system. I have two 10” kicker subs and a MTX 1000W amp, I want to install them in my car but I’m not sure what is the best way to go about it. I saw threads saying splice into a black/red wire, and the next one says nothing about this wire. So I’m looking for a straight forward way to install my subs with the best sound quality with the factory unit.
Go to the trunk and cut all the wires going to the sub. (should be 4 wires) Each wire is as follows: black and red = input negative; brown = input possitive; blue and red = remote on; black = ground.

Buy some RCA plugs or a line in converter to change the speaker wires over to RCA. I just got some plugs at radioshack. Works fine for me, no need for a line in converter because I have a input gain control on my amp. Cheers
 

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Risickulous
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Don't cut the wires. No reason to do that unless the stock sub is blown and/or rattling or you are removing it altogether. At low volumes, it's nice to still have the sub in the rear deck for a little low end. Just tap the wires for what you need.
 

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Thanks that is all i needed
 

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i originally wired mine up to the subwoofer wires, but the quality was low grade. i ended up not even using my subs untill i had a chance to re-wire it to under the passenger seat before the amp. got a much cleaner signal.
 

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Risickulous
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If wired properly into the Bose Sub signal in the rear, the signal is as good as under the seat. I've helped a few people fix the wiring in the rear now. Many have either tapped the wrong wires or attempted to use a LOC on it.
 

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Go to the trunk and cut all the wires going to the sub. (should be 4 wires) Each wire is as follows: black and red = input negative; brown = input possitive; blue and red = remote on; black = ground.

Buy some RCA plugs or a line in converter to change the speaker wires over to RCA. I just got some plugs at radioshack. Works fine for me, no need for a line in converter because I have a input gain control on my amp. Cheers
so is this the correct way to go about it
 

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I'm one of the people Joel helped. Tapping the wires is fine if you do it right, sound quality is great.

I hope Joel doesn't mind, here's a copy/paste from one of his PM's in which he explained to me what to do:

They didn't know what they were doing since the signal was already low level. It just needs RCA's tapped to the ends. It also looks like they tapped a negative and a positive feed to both sides of the signal. That is the problem you're having at the moment. It is just wired completely wrong. You need to pick up one of these, doesn't have to be that brand, but it needs to be the kind with 2 signal wires inside. Not the kind that has one signal wire and one bare sheath wire as the ground. The Rockford Fosgate ones at Best Buy are good and they are only 4.99 I think. You cut off the male end, strip the shielding back to reveal and inch or so of wire and then strip the wires a 1/4" or so. Ohm them out to figure which one is the center probe and connect both center wires together for the positive and both outer wires together for the negative. Then connect them to the stock harness so that the red/black wire connects to the center pins and the brown wire (iirc) connects to the outer shields. Connect the RCA's from your amp to that and you have pure sound. The only thing it will do is volume limit you at 25 or so, but you can adjust the gain on the amp to match with the stereo at lower volumes to your liking. That will cure the sub problem for now. Let me know if that makes sense or not.
 

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Risickulous
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Thanks for posting that. Seems like I've been retyping it a lot lately and keep forgetting to make one post out of it. Lots of lost or misinformation floating around out there. There is no reason at all to cut the stock wires either. You can unplug the sub if you don't want it to play and tap the wire prior to the sub connection at the rear deck for your new amp.
 

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I've been having the same fun trying to get good sound from tapping the sub line. Brown to +, black/red to -. I had the same amp/sub (fosgate 225.2/fosgate P3 DVC 12) in my 4runner tapped off the sub line with much better sound. In the mazda, it barely comes on at all and I have to turn the gains to 80% for that. Doesn't help that working in the Mazda trunk isn't as easy as working in the 4runner hatch. The price of quality audio I suppose.
 

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My amp has speaker level inputs, I assume I can just tap brown (sub +) and red/black (sub -) straight into the secondary amp then off the trunk harness?

Also - sounds like it's perfectly fine to tap the others off the trunk as well? (12v, ground, remote power on)?
 

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I would strongly encourage you to run dedicated power and ground. The factory wiring was sized for the bose amp and not an aftermarket amp. It is ok to use the blue/red wire from the harness as a remote power on source, but not as a power source.
 

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I was thinking about this at lunch...couldn't I tap off the 12v and ground at the Bose amp under the seat?
(basically tap *everything* off the amp under the seat?)
 

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totally can. And if your amp draws 30 amps you'll blow the Room fuse.

And if your fuse doesnt blow (this happens more often than you might think), then your power wire will burn.

You ever see a wire fire in a car? talk to your dealership about that next time you are there, and ask if any of the techs have seen it. See if you can't get some war stories out of them. :)

I also STRONGLY suggest that unless you are running a chip amp or ultra-efficient amp, to run dedicated power and ground. Power from the battery direct. ground locally at the chassis.

With signal and REM taken from the bose amp or from the subwoofer harness.
 

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Risickulous
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Run a new power and ground like Whiterabbit said.

You can tap the signal and remote in the trunk for a new sub amp. Do not use a LOC or connect to speaker level inputs on an amp. It is a line level output and you have to manually convert to RCA's. The output voltage is in the 1-2V range so you will have to up the gain to match. When done right, it works good. I've seen the most problems come from people using the wrong two wires for a source, using a LOC to convert to RCA's and lastly from using the kind of RCA Y's that don't have two wires inside.
 

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Thank all of you SO MUCH especially Joel.
I FINALLY have my 6i hatch wired up and booming! Yay!
 
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I do want to add now that just to help everyone in the future -
my local Best Buy didn't have any Rockford Fosgate cables at all, so I picked up the Dynex one they had for $3.99 (which is apparently BB's house brand).
Dynex® - RCA Y-Adapter - DX-AD102

^That one did work OK. Anyone in the future if you need to buy the 1M/2F RCA plug, that one will work for you. :)

I also used these tap-in squeeze connectors from Radio Shack to actually splice in to the stock wires in the back, so I can recommend and verify that these work too. :)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104093 (instead of having to strip the wires, splice in your new ones, and then tape or solder them)

Wire wise it works exactly like these guys have said.
From the sub harness in the trunk/hatch, red/blue striped wire is the remote power on, and just like Joel said to smoker - red/black wire connects to the center pins and the brown wire connects to the outer shields of the RCA's. It sounds great, no LOC necessary or anything. I used a clothes hanger to poke through the grommet under the driver dash (where all the other wires go through), I looped the end of it, taped my battery cable to it and pulled it through the hole to the engine compartment. The ground wire I just used the same bolt that the stock amp uses in the trunk area. My Alpine hu that I put in my Focus had a 2v preamp, so the 6 only having a 2v signal works fine for me. (I actually had to gain DOWN my amp because it's a lot louder in my 6i hatch than it was in my 4dr Focus.) :D
 
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