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2012 Mazda 6 shakes the steering wheel while under braking. I have updated the rotors, new calipers, and new brake line hoses but still shakes. only thing i havent changed is the pads but they look ok. what else could it be
 

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I would have changed the pads also, why not change the easiest cheapest part while doing the job? That being sad I'd check the new rotors to make sure they didn't get warped, check for a wheel out of balance, loose lug nuts and if nothing else possibly an alignment.

I think worn down pads can add to the wobble from rotors if it's already there.
 

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Another thing to consider is any loose suspension like ball joints that are on their last legs can have a similar effect occasionally. The steering rack itself could be an issue as well, I know a good amount of the 04-13 models have power steering lines that leak regularly.
 

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2012 Mazda 6 shakes the steering wheel while under braking. I have updated the rotors, new calipers, and new brake line hoses but still shakes. only thing i havent changed is the pads but they look ok. what else could it be
Grab each wheel and give it a good hard shake, from the top and from the sides, (12 o'clock and 3/9 o'clock)

Generally pads are replaced with rotors. I have had rotors machined before and not replaced pads with absolutely no issues whatsoever. The rough surface of a newly machined rotor cuts the outer portion of the pad off and re-seats it.

My current Odyssey has been operating like this for 2 years fine. I even re-bedded the old pads on the new rotors as if they were all new. Your results may vary.

You may have a small bit of debris between the rotor and hub?

My first real question is "did the car brake smoothly at any point following the rotor replacement or since you have been trying to fix it?"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Grab each wheel and give it a good hard shake, from the top and from the sides, (12 o'clock and 3/9 o'clock)

Generally pads are replaced with rotors. I have had rotors machined before and not replaced pads with absolutely no issues whatsoever. The rough surface of a newly machined rotor cuts the outer portion of the pad off and re-seats it.

My current Odyssey has been operating like this for 2 years fine. I even re-bedded the old pads on the new rotors as if they were all new. Your results may vary.

You may have a small bit of debris between the rotor and hub?

My first real question is "did the car brake smoothly at any point following the rotor replacement or since you have been trying to fix it?"
yes after updating the rotors the issue went away, then later came back. thats when i changed everything else. Pads look to be about 60% but maybe i need to change those anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another thing to consider is any loose suspension like ball joints that are on their last legs can have a similar effect occasionally. The steering rack itself could be an issue as well, I know a good amount of the 04-13 models have power steering lines that leak regularly.
I have checked the ball joints they are ok. but not the rack. thank i'll check that
 

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When you are initially bedding in the pads what is your procedure?

Those first few larger brake events it is pretty important to not let the pad clamp the rotor when it comes to a stop. Doing so will leave a deposit of material that causes a grab point that results in the shake, "warping". Even though it is not really bent it will sure feel like it.
 

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When you are initially bedding in the pads what is your procedure?

Those first few larger brake events it is pretty important to not let the pad clamp the rotor when it comes to a stop. Doing so will leave a deposit of material that causes a grab point that results in the shake, "warping". Even though it is not really bent it will sure feel like it.
Well, that and it holds the heat in causing it to expand and then cool erratically.
 

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I would change the pads. I do that anytime I have to take the hub or rotor off since they're cheaper than my time is valued at. Sure, I throw away pads with 30% or more material on them, but I'll have to replace them again, and I'm already in there so why not? I buy my pads ahead of time in case I'll need them (Rock Auto is a good place) and if I don't need them when I get in there to do some work or inspection, they'll be available when I do need to replace them.
 

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2012 Mazda 6 shakes the steering wheel while under braking. I have updated the rotors, new calipers, and new brake line hoses but still shakes. only thing i haven't changed is the pads but they look ok. what else could it be
When a new problem appears always go backward to figure out what caused the new problem if it occurred right after work was done on the car. In this case the most logical stand out are the rotors and proper brake fluid bleeding. With a car that old it would be wise replace the brake fluid. Begin by buying about 3 small cans of brake fluid since you should not save opened cans of brake fluid. Using a syringe, suck out as much of the old fluid from the master cylinder as possible. You don't want to push dirty fluid into your brake anti-lock system. Next fill with fresh fluid and put cap back on to keep as much moisture out of system as possible.
Presuming front brakes were bled properly after the brake flex hoses were replaced. Start at left rear which is the farthest from the master cylinder, next right rear, next right front and then drivers side, topping off the master after each wheel is bled to make sure the master cylinder never runs out of fluid. Keep the master cylinder cap on unless filling it.
If a rotor is warped, you will get uneven clamping power on the rotor and feel it in the steering wheel, pretty simple.
I presume rotors were updated means new ones were installed or were they new to you and used. Even new ones don't necessarily mean they will run true.
The 2006 Mazda3 we had years ago developed a steering wheel shake when braking. I have some precision tools including a dial indictor and set it up for each front rotor to determine which one was out of true and how much. One was out of limits so I ordered a new rotor. After installing the new one I took the time to check it before putting car back together. The new one was out of true so ordered a second one. The second one was perfect. Put the car back together and steering shake was gone.
Before spending any more money I would make sure those new rotors run true. An auto machine shop or auto parts store that turns brake drums and rotors should be able to check the true on the rotors before overhauling the front end of that car.
Throwing parts at your car guessing at a fix is shot gun trouble shooting, you can get lucky or spend lots of your money before the problem goes away.
 
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