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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I bought my Mazda 6 from a teacher a few months back. The car has done 122k miles thus far. The guy I bought it from had Westlake tires 205 50 R17 on them. I was driving one day I could hear a constant sound from the front left tire. I inspected the tire and saw that a screw had lodged into the tire. I pulled out the screw as I believed it was dangerous driving with it stuck into my tire. The tire went flat soon after and unfortunately, it was Thanksgiving Thursday. I tried to put on the donut spare tire but could not open one nut on the rim. So with the flat tire, I reached the tire shop to put on the spare. Seems the nut that did not come off was torqued incorrectly the last time the front brake rotors were replaced. So after putting on the spare tire, I drove around 70 miles and then the next day went to the tire shop to put on brand new tires for the front. As the previous tire was ruined, the tire guy only had Sanctuary 225 50 R17 and so I got all four changed.

Now the issue is that when I apply the brakes the steering turns slightly to the left when the car stops. This is especially noticeable at low speeds of up to 30 miles. Also, the car shimmies a bit and I can feel the vibration on the steering.

Please let me know what could be the issue and how can I get it fixed.

Thanks.
 

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Little confused.. you mention you "put on a brand new tire" then say "I got all four changed". Which is it?

If all four were changed I'd say there is a good chance you ruined, bent the rim driving on it trying to get to the tire shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Little confused.. you mention you "put on a brand new tire" then say "I got all four changed". Which is it?

If all four were changed I'd say there is a good chance you ruined, bent the rim driving on it trying to get to the tire shop.
@idrive: I am sorry for the typo. I went it to change both the front tires as the previous Westlakes were not available. I am not sure If I damaged the rim. from the outside, it looks fine to me. Although I also hear a creaking sound if I go on bumps a bit faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
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@idrive: I am sorry for the typo. I went it to change both the front tires as the previous Westlakes were not available. I am not sure If I damaged the rim. from the outside, it looks fine to me. Although I also hear a creaking sound if I go on bumps a bit faster.
I have changed all four tires to new ones Santuary 225 50 R17 98W.
 
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Sounds like a bad control arm.

Looks like you learned the hard way - if there is a screw in your tire, dont take it out until you get to the shop to plug or replace it!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like a bad control arm.

Looks like you learned the hard way - if there is a screw in your tire, dont take it out until you get to the shop to plug or replace it!
@MazdaMoisturization : Correct.I realized as soon as I pulled out the screw from my tire :(...I feel completely stupid now. A simple fix has now cost me a lot. But I still need to figure out the exact problem. Your input is something I shall look into and also the one given by iDrive for the rims. Thank you so much!
 
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If you limped the car to the shop going very slowly I doubt you have caused any damage to that rim, but only a tire shop can answer that question for certain. Just looking at the surface of the rim isn't going to tell you much. You had some cheap tires on there and replaced them with more cheap tires so I wouldnt be too concerned about the amount of money spent there unless you didn't get a good deal on the car or something. To be honest - next time just replace only the tires on the axle associated with the flat. Having two different tires on the same axle is obviously a no-no, but with that being said it's unlikely you'll run into an issues with such unless your driving habits are "spirited."

The creaking sound you mentioned is probably a worn bushing or strut mount. Have the shop inspect the suspension for you. If they say that you need to replace both control arms for example, make sure they show to you that BOTH of the control arms have play in them and not just one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you limped the car to the shop going very slowly I doubt you have caused any damage to that rim, but only a tire shop can answer that question for certain. Just looking at the surface of the rim isn't going to tell you much. You had some cheap tires on there and replaced them with more cheap tires so I wouldnt be too concerned about the amount of money spent there unless you didn't get a good deal on the car or something. To be honest - next time just replace only the tires on the axle associated with the flat. Having two different tires on the same axle is obviously a no-no, but with that being said it's unlikely you'll run into an issues with such unless your driving habits are "spirited."

The creaking sound you mentioned is probably a worn bushing or strut mount. Have the shop inspect the suspension for you. If they say that you need to replace both control arms for example, make sure they show to you that BOTH of the control arms have play in them and not just one.
@MazdaMoisturization: You are correct about the cheap tires. I am a student and really tight on budget. I felt guilty driving the car on Westlakes and now too with the Sanctuary ones. I want to get some good tires as soon as I get some money to fund them. I got the car for 2K USD with 110 k miles on it. Everything is stock except for the tires. Its been a hard journey with the money being spent getting new catalytic converters from Magnaflow, New radiator and front brake rotors from Centric. My driving habits are not 'spirited'. I use it to commute to my workplace daily and will be using it more as the new job is a bit farther away with 90% highway driving 200 miles average per week. I love the car but had to get the cheap tires for now. Don't like one bit to treat the car with the cheap stuff.I have all four tires now of Santuary.
 

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You are correct about the cheap tires. I am a student and really tight on budget. I felt guilty driving the car on Westlakes and now too with the Sanctuary ones.
Cheap ass brand new tires are going to be so much better than cheap used tires. I think my Primewells were $65 each and have better tread wear than the firestone indys while matching the load index , temp and traction. At $89 each now, they are still $100 cheaper than a set of 4 indys with same ratings. I love my Primewells!
 

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So I bought my Mazda 6 from a teacher a few months back. The car has done 122k miles thus far. The guy I bought it from had Westlake tires 205 50 R17 on them. I was driving one day I could hear a constant sound from the front left tire. I inspected the tire and saw that a screw had lodged into the tire. I pulled out the screw as I believed it was dangerous driving with it stuck into my tire. The tire went flat soon after and unfortunately, it was Thanksgiving Thursday. I tried to put on the donut spare tire but could not open one nut on the rim. So with the flat tire, I reached the tire shop to put on the spare. Seems the nut that did not come off was torqued incorrectly the last time the front brake rotors were replaced. So after putting on the spare tire, I drove around 70 miles and then the next day went to the tire shop to put on brand new tires for the front. As the previous tire was ruined, the tire guy only had Sanctuary 225 50 R17 and so I got all four changed.

Now the issue is that when I apply the brakes the steering turns slightly to the left when the car stops. This is especially noticeable at low speeds of up to 30 miles. Also, the car shimmies a bit and I can feel the vibration on the steering.

Please let me know what could be the issue and how can I get it fixed.

Thanks.
Hello again fellow wagoneer. Generally when the vehicle pulls under braking I think, sticking caliper, mis-matched tires, (or pressure) faulty wheel bearing, faulty tie rod (inner or outer) faulty control arm or if it happens rarely then road lines or grooves.
Did you have the car aligned?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hello again fellow wagoneer. Generally, when the vehicle pulls under braking I think, sticking caliper, mismatched tires, (or pressure) faulty wheel bearing, faulty tie rod (inner or outer) faulty control arm or if it happens rarely then road lines or grooves.
Did you have the car aligned?
Hello dear friend...I was definitely missing your inputs...It doesn't feel good without your inputs(pun intended). I am not sure if the Discount Tire Shop did the wheel alignment. A month back I had gotten the new brake rotors on both the front ones and I believe an alignment was done back then. I will be going tomorrow to a reputed tire shop to get the wheel alignment and other things sorted. As per the previous comments I am definitely going to keep an eye on the control arm and tie rod issue. Please let me know what I should be looking at in terms of tie rods and control arms. What should ask the guy in terms of questions and verify if the job is getting done properly? I do miss not having my own garage to fix things.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cheap ass brand new tires are going to be so much better than cheap used tires. I think my Primewells were $65 each and have better tread wear than the firestone indys while matching the load index , temp and traction. At $89 each now, they are still $100 cheaper than a set of 4 indys with same ratings. I love my Primewells!
@DJ Raydiate : Yup absolutely. New cheap tires are much better than used cheap tires. Although these new ones on all four rims are cheap but definitely perform better than the old ones. I personally believe that Car manufacturers should start giving full-size spares again. Cost-cutting by giving donut tires is a killer in emergency driving like I had to do.
 

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@DJ Raydiate : Yup absolutely. New cheap tires are much better than used cheap tires. Although these new ones on all four rims are cheap but definitely perform better than the old ones. I personally believe that Car manufacturers should start giving full-size spares again. Cost-cutting by giving donut tires is a killer in emergency driving like I had to do.
Yes, but at least mazda uses a donut spare tire... A lot of manufacturer these days are using run-flat tires or provide only a compressor with some kind of fix-a-flat goo to patch the tire... Thanks, but no thanks!


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Hello dear friend...I was definitely missing your inputs...It doesn't feel good without your inputs(pun intended). I am not sure if the Discount Tire Shop did the wheel alignment. A month back I had gotten the new brake rotors on both the front ones and I believe an alignment was done back then. I will be going tomorrow to a reputed tire shop to get the wheel alignment and other things sorted. As per the previous comments I am definitely going to keep an eye on the control arm and tie rod issue. Please let me know what I should be looking at in terms of tie rods and control arms. What should ask the guy in terms of questions and verify if the job is getting done properly? I do miss not having my own garage to fix things.
Ha ha.. your funny.
Vibration can also be caused from the wheel and/or brake rotor not being flush against the hub (think rust). With the car in the air and wheel off you can visually check the bushings with a good light.
238589



Good vs. Bad

238590



238591
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ha ha.. your funny.
Vibration can also be caused from the wheel and/or brake rotor not being flush against the hub (think rust). With the car in the air and wheel off you can visually check the bushings with a good light.
View attachment 238589


Good vs. Bad
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Thank you DrFeel Good as always your help is appreciated. I took it to a good Mazda mechanic here and it was the front right brake caliper that was causing the problem. The left-hand side caliper was grabbing the tire fine but the right one didn't. Got it replaced with a new one and did a brake fluid flush and top up. The issue is resolved for now. Also inspected the tie rods and other suspension parts and they seem to be in good shape for now. But a question still lingers in my mind as to why did this happen after the tire puncture and after I put on new tires? When it was on old ones had no issues with regards to the calipers. Do you think it may be due to driving on the donut tire for 70 miles? or taking the car to a tire shop and driving it with a flat for 1 mile? or maybe just a coincidence that it happened right after changing the tires? Let me know your thoughts
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, but at least mazda uses a donut spare tire... A lot of manufacturer these days are using run-flat tires or provide only a compressor with some kind of fix-a-flat goo to patch the tire... Thanks, but no thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree its much better the fix-a-flat goo. At least you can drive to the nearest tire shop. But the vibration and wobble on the steering are too much. I am going to get a full size soon.
 

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Thank you DrFeel Good as always your help is appreciated. I took it to a good Mazda mechanic here and it was the front right brake caliper that was causing the problem. The left-hand side caliper was grabbing the tire fine but the right one didn't. Got it replaced with a new one and did a brake fluid flush and top up. The issue is resolved for now. Also inspected the tie rods and other suspension parts and they seem to be in good shape for now. But a question still lingers in my mind as to why did this happen after the tire puncture and after I put on new tires? When it was on old ones had no issues with regards to the calipers. Do you think it may be due to driving on the donut tire for 70 miles? or taking the car to a tire shop and driving it with a flat for 1 mile? or maybe just a coincidence that it happened right after changing the tires? Let me know your thoughts
I think it was coincidence. Glad your issue is fixed.
Something I wanted to note is if you ever have to use the space saver spare it should only be used on the rear. The front tires do 70% of the braking, all the steering, and also move power through a differential, all of which are affected when the temporary tire is used up front.
Cheers mate.
 

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I agree its much better the fix-a-flat goo. At least you can drive to the nearest tire shop. But the vibration and wobble on the steering are too much. I am going to get a full size soon.
The 17" will be too wide to put the rear floor down. I believe the 205/60R16 will fit nearly flush but you cannot use any tray above it.
 

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@
I have changed all four tires to new ones Santuary 225 50 R17 98W.
The original factory spec for your car was 215/50 R17. Previously, you were slightly undersized with 205/50 R17, which would have made your speedometer and odometer run slightly fast (more tire revolutions per mile); now, your tires are slightly oversized at 225/50 R17, which was the OEM size for the original Ford Fusion that was based on the Mazda6 sedan chassis; so now your speedometer and odometer will run slightly slow (fewer tire revolutions per mile). [Incidentally, you lucked out that your new tires apparently do not rub on the inside of the rear fender; depending on a spcific tire's loaded profile, some brands of 225/50 R17 tires do rub.] DrFeelGood's suggestion of using a 205/60 R16 wheel and tire for a spare is certainly functionally superior to mounting the doughnut factory spare, especially because you note that your commute involves primarily highway driving.

Be aware, however, that running a 225/50 R17 wheel and tire opposite a 205/60 R16 wheel and tire will introduce the same kind of problem, though not as severe, as the problem that running the emergency doughnut raises. In the emergncy situation, you should mount the 16" spare only at the rear, and swap the other three wheels and tires around so that the two front wheels and tires are a match for each other.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The original factory spec for your car was 215/50 R17. Previously, you were slightly undersized with 205/50 R17, which would have made your speedometer and odometer run slightly fast (more tire revolutions per mile); now, your tires are slightly oversized at 225/50 R17, which was the OEM size for the original Ford Fusion that was based on the Mazda6 sedan chassis; so now your speedometer and odometer will run slightly slow (fewer tire revolutions per mile). [Incidentally, you lucked out that your new tires apparently do not rub on the inside of the rear fender; depending on a spcific tire's loaded profile, some brands of 225/50 R17 tires do rub.] DrFeelGood's suggestion of using a 205/60 R16 wheel and tire for a spare is certainly functionally superior to mounting the doughnut factory spare, especially because you note that your commute involves primarily highway driving.

Be aware, however, that running a 225/50 R17 wheel and tire opposite a 205/60 R16 wheel and tire will introduce the same kind of problem, though not as severe, as the problem that running the emergency doughnut raises. In the emergncy situation, you should mount the 16" spare only at the rear, and swap the other three wheels and tires around so that the two front wheels and tires are a match for each other.
@posttosh @DrFeelGood: Thanks a lot for your inputs. I shall keep yours and DrFeelgood's inputs in mind while purchasing the full-size spare. I still believe I should have used the factory specified 215/50/R17 and not buckled under the pressure of the non-availability of those tires. It was a mix of emergency driving in my mind and the holiday that had many shops closed that I thought it's ok to use 225/50/R17 on all four rims. The other thing is that the left side turning of the steering issue is back. Though not as severe as it was before. But it happens at slow speeds now. So when I break lightly at high speeds it does not cause any issues. But when I brake hard at low speeds I can see the steering turn on its own slightly to the left. Also, the steering wobbles slightly left and the then centers itself this happens constantly. I got the tire pressure checked and the pressure is 32 psi on all four. Do you guys think it the right side front brake caliper because it got it replaced last Saturday with a new one from Centric?
Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks again!
 
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