[fearturtle03]

I just got done installing 2 10' jl subs powered by a Kenwood amp. As well as 4 5.25 JL speakers powered by an eclipse amp (used exsisting wiring from amp to speakers in doors) and also put in my Alpine 9813 HU. All this used to be in my old 850 Volvo and it sounded pretty awsome inside. The outside rattled alot, but could not hear any of that inside the car. However after doing the install in my Mazda 6s, I feel like it is about 100x worse SQ as well as SPL. I sound deaden the trunk and to my delight there is barely any rattle heard from outside the car, however inside is another story. Will doing the sound deadening on the rear deck and such where the rattles are improve the SQ and SPL up to my old levels, or does the acoustic in the 6 just suck?

Also when I put in the speakers, like i said, I used the exsisting wiring that was there for the BOSE. There are no cross-overs or anything like that somewhere that I needed to disable are there? Because after I did the install, to my surprise the tweeters were still outputing music, which I was not sure as to why? Any help would be great b/c i want the tight and deep bass back i had in my Volvo :swearin:

 

[doublebass120]

I just got done installing 2 10' jl subs powered by a Kenwood amp. As well as 4 5.25 JL speakers powered by an eclipse amp (used exsisting wiring from amp to speakers in doors) and also put in my Alpine 9813 HU. All this used to be in my old 850 Volvo and it sounded pretty awsome inside. The outside rattled alot, but could not hear any of that inside the car. However after doing the install in my Mazda 6s, I feel like it is about 100x worse SQ as well as SPL. I sound deaden the trunk and to my delight there is barely any rattle heard from outside the car, however inside is another story. Will doing the sound deadening on the rear deck and such where the rattles are improve the SQ and SPL up to my old levels, or does the acoustic in the 6 just suck?

Also when I put in the speakers, like i said, I used the exsisting wiring that was there for the BOSE. There are no cross-overs or anything like that somewhere that I needed to disable are there? Because after I did the install, to my surprise the tweeters were still outputing music, which I was not sure as to why? Any help would be great b/c i want the tight and deep bass back i had in my Volvo :swearin: [/b]

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you since I'm still waiting for my stock speakers to blow.. ::crosses fingers::

However, I'm curious, how'd you use the stock BOSE wiring? I've been planning on mounting a sub in the stock sub location (rear deck), but I'm just curious to see where the wires lead.

 

[fearturtle03]

Sorry, I don't have an answer for you since I'm still waiting for my stock speakers to blow.. ::crosses fingers::

However, I'm curious, how'd you use the stock BOSE wiring? I've been planning on mounting a sub in the stock sub location (rear deck), but I'm just curious to see where the wires lead.
[/b]

Well I replaced the stereo with my Alpine 9813, which has 3 sets of pre-outs. So in addition to my sub amp, I also added an eclipse 4 channel amp as well for my speakers. I took out the passenger seat and after a little cutting of carpet and building like 1/2 mounts for clearance, I just removed the BOSE amp and stuck my Eclipse in its place. From there i found some wiring diargams of BOSE Amp harness on this site, and cut out the 4 speaker sets and wired them into my new amp...

The only question I have is there another step I have to do, b/c the BOSE tweeters still played when I hooked up my new speakers which made me wonder if there was some x-over i had to disable or what not???

 

[applejax]

The Bose system has some funky stuff going on. If you used the existing wiring, did you bypass the Bose amp?

You know, someone should really make stickies about this Bose stuff.

 

[doublebass120]

Well I replaced the stereo with my Alpine 9813, which has 3 sets of pre-outs. So in addition to my sub amp, I also added an eclipse 4 channel amp as well for my speakers. I took out the passenger seat and after a little cutting of carpet and building like 1/2 mounts for clearance, I just removed the BOSE amp and stuck my Eclipse in its place. From there i found some wiring diargams of BOSE Amp harness on this site, and cut out the 4 speaker sets and wired them into my new amp...

The only question I have is there another step I have to do, b/c the BOSE tweeters still played when I hooked up my new speakers which made me wonder if there was some x-over i had to disable or what not??? [/b]

Cut the wires going to the BOSE tweeters. :yesnod:

 

[fearturtle03]

The Bose system has some funky stuff going on. If you used the existing wiring, did you bypass the Bose amp?

You know, someone should really make stickies about this Bose stuff.
[/b]

Some people should read the posts before commenting on them....

I did bypass the BOSE amp and I did read the BOSE stickies, where do you think I got the AMP harness diargam from????

I cut off the 4 speaker set outputs from the BOSE amp and re-attached them to my eclipse amp, like stated in my previous post...I am just wondering where and why the tweeeters still work? They obviously split off from the wiring coming from the harness at some point and wanted to make sure it wasnt a problem.

 

[PDX6]

For quwstion 1. I sound deadened the rear tray and it made my spl go up. (I have a spl. meter) I also lifted the tray and placed pads under the feet (where the plastic and fabric tray meet the metal base (if that makes any sense). THe stock "vibration pads" as I will call them, were not placed well and caused some VERY annoing vibrations/rattles provoked by my 2 JL w3 12's. I also sound deadened the rear licence plate and tried to isoolate the rear trunk release bar inside the trunk lid (which is the major vibration heared from out side the car).
As for the tweets still playing, I am guessing that the bose wireing was split from the front speakers into the tweets. I would suggest running a thicker speaker wire to all your speakers (for SPL quality as well as to FULLY eliminate any left over problems from the bose set.) If you are running the thin stock wireing, your JL spekers are not getting the full power that they need. I would run some 10 or 12 gauge IMO. When I re-did my wireing to thicker (my subs form a 10g- 2g. it helped A LOT!!!!!)
and my speakers to 12g from 16 or 18? helped as well. Good luck let us know how it goes.

 

[jrodhotrod]

I haven't gotten this far in my install yet so I can't comment about specifics.

It sounds like you have the BOSE amp out of the vehicle already so that can't be causing EQ oddities.

There should be a way to easily unplug the bose tweeters or remove them from the vehicle entirely. That should go a long ways towards helping your SQ.

Sound deadening can't hurt, I am doing pretty much whole car.

Lastly, you can change the speaker wire to your doors if you choose, but if your amp isn't pushing more then 50 watts RMS, you aren't likely to see any improvement from it. And if you do decide to pull new speaker to the doors, it's not necessary to do anything more then 14 gauge. Pulling 12 or anything larger to the doors properly is going to be very difficult in this car.

Please see the speaker wire calculator on this site to get an idea for how much loss you are actually going to see from different size wires.

http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

The top level gives you a neat frame on the right side that gives direct links to all the different sections: http://www.bcae1.com/

 

[applejax]

Some people should read the posts before commenting on them....

I did bypass the BOSE amp and I did read the BOSE stickies, where do you think I got the AMP harness diargam from????[/b]

I don't know. You didn't specify. Nowhere in your post do you elude to bypassing the amp or reading the stickies.

 

[travis0385]

ya chill dude.... first off, you made a big mistake of taking the speakerlevel outputs from the bose amp and feeding them into your other amp..
your headunit is reading the music signal then it is amplifing it, then it goes to the bose amp and gets amplified and then your eclipse amplifies it again.. since u have an alpine headunit with 3 rca outputs - use them. amplifying an amplified signal is a no-no.

use the rcas and take out the bose amp completely (or just take the power away) this SHOULD make the tweeters go away

as far as the bass output, make sure u have good power going to your sub amp and put the rear seats down, they make a difference

Edit: you didnt explicitly say how u gave your sub amp signal either, if your using the same way as your eclipse amp, or if your using the rca bypass of the eclipse amp - that would explain it

use rca signals whenever possible

 

[DaveRulz]

The reason that the bose tweeters are still working is because they are run parallel off of the mid wires. The only crossover on them is a small capacitor. Just disconnect them and you'll be fine.

As far as the bass not being as loud as it was before, there's a simple answer. The trunk is sealed very well from the cabin. Dropping the seats should probably yield the results you are used to in sound. If you haven't already, remove the bose subwoofer to allow the bass to vent through the rear deck. That should minimize the difference between seats up and seats down. Other than that, there's not much you can do besides getting more power or cutting out more of the rear deck.

 

[fearturtle03]

ya chill dude.... first off, you made a big mistake of taking the speakerlevel outputs from the bose amp and feeding them into your other amp..
your headunit is reading the music signal then it is amplifing it, then it goes to the bose amp and gets amplified and then your eclipse amplifies it again.. since u have an alpine headunit with 3 rca outputs - use them. amplifying an amplified signal is a no-no.

use the rcas and take out the bose amp completely (or just take the power away) this SHOULD make the tweeters go away

as far as the bass output, make sure u have good power going to your sub amp and put the rear seats down, they make a difference

Edit: you didnt explicitly say how u gave your sub amp signal either, if your using the same way as your eclipse amp, or if your using the rca bypass of the eclipse amp - that would explain it

use rca signals whenever possible
[/b]

I guess when I said I added a 4 channel amp and 4 new speakers somehow people did not get the I thought obvious idea that I would also remove the BOSE amp....

I have RCA's from eclipse amp to Alpine HU as well as RCA from sub amp to ALpine HU. And yes the BOSE amp is gone, since I installed the eclipse amp under the passenger seat.

Thanks for the info Dave and Jared...I didnt think i had to spell everything out for some people. Please read the post completely before you make responses and comments.

And Ajax...."I just removed the BOSE amp and stuck my Eclipse in its place" a direct quote from my first post" Thank you. I am pretty sure removing would entail bypassing...

 

[PDX6]

I guess when I said I added a 4 channel amp and 4 new speakers somehow people did not get the I thought obvious idea that I would also remove the BOSE amp....

I have RCA's from eclipse amp to Alpine HU as well as RCA from sub amp to ALpine HU. And yes the BOSE amp is gone, since I installed the eclipse amp under the passenger seat.

Thanks for the info Dave and Jared...I didnt think i had to spell everything out for some people. Please read the post completely before you make responses and comments.

And Ajax...."I just removed the BOSE amp and stuck my Eclipse in its place" a direct quote from my first post" Thank you. I am pretty sure removing would entail bypassing...
[/b]

Just as a heads up, you cant get mad at folks for trying to HELP you, when you ASSUME all people will know what your talking about. You are pretty new here so I would suggest a more appreciative attitude to ALL the people trying to understand your exact problem and help you. Being a prick wont help IMO.

 

[DaveRulz]

No, but you can get mad at them for not reading and posting worthless replies.

 

[fearturtle03]

Just as a heads up, you cant get mad at folks for trying to HELP you, when you ASSUME all people will know what your talking about. You are pretty new here so I would suggest a more appreciative attitude to ALL the people trying to understand your exact problem and help you. Being a prick wont help IMO.
[/b]

So you people who have been on here awhile get pissed at "noobs" for asking questions and not searching and say shit about questions they do ask, but when you make some stupid comment or post on something that I was not even asking a question about, I am suppose to say thank you??? Riiiiiight

I was very appreciative of the people who did leave posts that had something to do with my question and who obviously read what i wrote and commented. If you are going to leave a post then take an extra 15 seconds to read the whole thing before you answer. That is probally the biggest Noob mistake you can make. I have never seen people on here who know what they are talking about put up some retarded post... I can understand if people tried to answer, but were not sure and got it wrong....but it is completley obvious he just skimmed the thread and added whatever he wanted because none of it pertained to the question I posed. SO people read my post where I said i replaced the BOSE amp with my eclipse, but then still try and tell me i am sending the signal through the BOSE amp? He is right I guess i should have added the part where I bought 50 miles of retractable speaker wire that is hooked up to the BOSE amp i pulled out of my car and left in the garage... So how about you people stop being a prick and stop acting like a noob when you post.

Thanks again Dave and Jared I am hoping to get to the inside rattles this weekend as well as removing that POS BOSE sub.

 

[cherryspeed]

Juat a quick thought - did you check polarity of the speaker wires on both amps. I know from my personal experience that working with that little Bose harness can be challenging. Maybe you are out of phase? When I did my install I used the diagram on the sticky and I was out of phase when I started the system. I don't know if the diagram was wrong, or I just hooked it up wrong.

 

[applejax]

And Ajax...."I just removed the BOSE amp and stuck my Eclipse in its place" a direct quote from my first post" Thank you. I am pretty sure removing would entail bypassing...
[/b]

Nowhere in your original post does that quote appear.

I just got done installing 2 10' jl subs powered by a Kenwood amp. As well as 4 5.25 JL speakers powered by an eclipse amp (used exsisting wiring from amp to speakers in doors) and also put in my Alpine 9813 HU. All this used to be in my old 850 Volvo and it sounded pretty awsome inside. The outside rattled alot, but could not hear any of that inside the car. However after doing the install in my Mazda 6s, I feel like it is about 100x worse SQ as well as SPL. I sound deaden the trunk and to my delight there is barely any rattle heard from outside the car, however inside is another story. Will doing the sound deadening on the rear deck and such where the rattles are improve the SQ and SPL up to my old levels, or does the acoustic in the 6 just suck?

Also when I put in the speakers, like i said, I used the exsisting wiring that was there for the BOSE. There are no cross-overs or anything like that somewhere that I needed to disable are there? Because after I did the install, to my surprise the tweeters were still outputing music, which I was not sure as to why? Any help would be great b/c i want the tight and deep bass back i had in my Volvo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/69.gif)[/b]

Aha. Found it.

Well I replaced the stereo with my Alpine 9813, which has 3 sets of pre-outs. So in addition to my sub amp, I also added an eclipse 4 channel amp as well for my speakers. I took out the passenger seat and after a little cutting of carpet and building like 1/2 mounts for clearance, I just removed the BOSE amp and stuck my Eclipse in its place. From there i found some wiring diargams of BOSE Amp harness on this site, and cut out the 4 speaker sets and wired them into my new amp...[/b]

You made this post while I was typing mine.

Your original post does state

powered by an eclipse amp (used exsisting wiring from amp to speakers in doors) [/b]

Which is what made me question exactly what parts of the system you actually did remove.

No matter, though, DaveRulz is usually on the ball, and has given you a worthwhile suggestion.

 

[fearturtle03]

Juat a quick thought - did you check polarity of the speaker wires on both amps. I know from my personal experience that working with that little Bose harness can be challenging. Maybe you are out of phase? When I did my install I used the diagram on the sticky and I was out of phase when I started the system. I don't know if the diagram was wrong, or I just hooked it up wrong.
[/b]

hmmm i dunno. I think alot of the problem was that the EQ on my alpine was set to flat first off as well as my cross over settings since it was disconnected from power supply. So once I went in and re-tuned the EQ and X-over it made a pretty big difference in the SQ. Subs still do not sound quite up to par, but hopefully after the sound deadening on rear deack to remove the rattles and removing BOSE sub it will improve...Either way i need a new sub. Thinking of switching to just a single 10' or something from my 2 10's.

I have 2 JL 10w0 's right now (they are like 6 years old, been amazing subs, but the 6 years has got to put some wear and tear on them). With the rattles and all I am not that big into SPL, but would rather some nicer, tighter bass...any suiggestions? I like the Kicker solo L5 for price and RMS, but how is the SQ? I have heard they do not really compare to JL's, maybe like w3 or 6, but then again they get a little more pricey than the L5's?

 

[applejax]

If your main criteria is sound quality, the Elemental Designs seem to have quite the reputation these days.

It would also help to know a couple of other things such as what type of music you listen to and what type of box (if any) do you intend?

 

[durwood]

I have 2 JL 10w0 's right now (they are like 6 years old, been amazing subs, but the 6 years has got to put some wear and tear on them). With the rattles and all I am not that big into SPL, but would rather some nicer, tighter bass...any suiggestions? I like the Kicker solo L5 for price and RMS, but how is the SQ? I have heard they do not really compare to JL's, maybe like w3 or 6, but then again they get a little more pricey than the L5's?
[/b]

A couple of suggestions:

1) Placement and direction the subs fire makes a big difference. for the loudest possible sound, you probably want to push the sub box against the rear seats with the subs facing the rear of the car.

2) Daverulz is correct...the trunk is sealed pretty well. Folding the seats down or removing the factory sub should help get the sound waves into the cabin of the car

3) try flipping the polarity of the sub 180deg phase and see if the bass improves. (swap the neg and postive wries on the sub). Use Time correction on you alpine to add more delay to your front speakers. Try this with just the woofers and sub woofer on.

4) Kicker L5 solobarics are very sloppy, inefficient subs that are not good for sound quality. I would not recommend them. JL's are pretty smooth, if you go up in model numbers i.e. W3, W6 make sure you have enough power to control the sub otherwise you won't gain much for the money. The W6V2 is a very smooth sub with good low end extension. I have one 10 in my MS6 with about 400-500Wrms crossed over at 36Hz (I don't need my melon rattled anymore)

Hope these suggestions help.

Just remember, tuning a stereo in one car does not mean it is the exact same in a different car.