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Discussion Starter #1
I was looking into buying some new plugs and wires.. and wondered if anyone had any suggestions or advice on which plugs to get, I mean I see a huge price difference in a few of them but I dont think there is that big of a difference.. but I dont really know.. I just want the best and dont want to be wasting money.

Iridium, Nickel alloy, Platinum, Iridium/Platinum?
Heat range?

What should i DOOOO?!?!

Also, know any good places to buy cables? I was searching on Summitracing to get my plugs..

This will be my first time installing them on my 6 and anyone who found anything odd or difficult about this.. let me know.

Basically just starting a general spark plug thread because I couldnt find one out there.
 

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The plugs that come with the V6 are supposed to be pretty good already right? Also What affect can new wires have when they're only 6" long and attached to thier own pack? Do they even make aftermarket wires for that?

From what I've learned in the past is that these super expencive multi point plugs have a less intense spark and longer life. I've always liked NGK for that nice hot spark but they're not as good on life. Give and take on plugs I guess..
 

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seriously just answer the damn guy this pisses me off so much.. if this topic was covered again and again and again and again then u could say ok dude search but this has been covered like once MAYBE twice a loooooong time ago. but you could of taken the extra 10 seconds to answer the guy instead of telling him to search. Im wondering on the spark plug wires myself also.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, the search on here sucks.. usually when I do more than 1 word it gives me crap.. so I try to do one word at a time.. like.. spark.. and plug.. and dont get shit.. I only try a couple of times before I give up and post something..

Some people over-use the 'do a search' thing.. instead of reading that I 'did' search.. its probably because they are too stupid to know the answer..and just have to throw their .02 in. I guess I'm just with the old school belief of 'helping people'.. not being a dick.. most people on here are good about helping.. and some people are good at being a dick.. I guess we all have to have something we are good at.

At least link to it.. and be nice.. like ZoomZoom..

Anyways.. back to my life... Thanks guys.. If you are wondering.. that thread basically says.. .. just not to buy Bosch.. and that everything else is pretty much the same.. NGK Iridiums or Motorcrafts seems to be the general consensus put for by 84FordMan.. and wires seems to not be an issue... but wasnt covered in that post.
 

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I figured out the search engine on here, then they updated the board software, and it seemed to change.

A good way is to go to google and type in "site:forum.mazda6club.com keyword1 keyword2 etc". Then google will crawl the site listed after the colon (this case this forum) searching for the keywords you type in. Seems to work pretty good for me.
 

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Wow the work involved is greater than I was thinking. having to remove the TB and IM is just too much work for 3 plugs. Last time I put in a IM gasket I had leaks up the ass, Im not toutching the one on my 6, its going st8 to the dealer at 60k for plugs when the time comes.
 

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Wow the work involved is greater than I was thinking. having to remove the TB and IM is just too much work for 3 plugs. Last time I put in a IM gasket I had leaks up the ass, Im not toutching the one on my 6, its going st8 to the dealer at 60k for plugs when the time comes.
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Same here. I did the front 3 and chickened out on the back 3. Good thing, as the dealer found a leaky valve cover gasket that I wouldn't have...free oil change, plug and labour under warantee!!
 

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Wow the work involved is greater than I was thinking. having to remove the TB and IM is just too much work for 3 plugs. Last time I put in a IM gasket I had leaks up the ass, Im not toutching the one on my 6, its going st8 to the dealer at 60k for plugs when the time comes.
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Except you'll be surprised how many dealers and mechanics just change the front plugs and don't touch the back ones precisely because they are so hard to get to and you wont know if they changed it or not.

Changing those back ones were a major PITA. I changed mine at 55k with the Autolite XP104. My old ones were still in great condition (use Redline Fuel Cleaner every 7k miles). Putting in the XP104s, it seemed to run with more power, but that might just be because of disconnecting the battery and resetting the system. My mileage also seemed to improve by about .75 mpg (hardly a major improvement). FWIW.
 

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What sort of intake manifold gasket is on the V6? I though that it was a non-issue for this engine. Someone said to me that it was a reuseable gasket.
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Anyone Anyone??? Bueller??? I would also like to know how the gasket for the intake is designed before I do that job. It is always nice to know if parts will be needed ahead of time.
 

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what about the wires? are their even any aftermarket wires avail for the v6?
 

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So someone tried new Autolite Iridium 6mm. XP104 plugs for 3.0 engine!
Those should fit our engine perfectly?
I did compare them visualy to NGK IX55 and the electrode looks a little different so maybe
those Autolite will fit as well as stock Motorcraft Double Plat's do and still be a better quality Iridium?

Are there any "how to" instructions how to change plugs on 3.0 anywhere?
Looks like 3 back ones are a real pain.... any tricks?
 

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So someone tried new Autolite Iridium 6mm. XP104 plugs for 3.0 engine!
Those should fit our engine perfectly?
I did compare them visualy to NGK IX55 and the electrode looks a little different so maybe
those Autolite will fit as well as stock Motorcraft Double Plat's do and still be a better quality Iridium?

Are there any "how to" instructions how to change plugs on 3.0 anywhere?
Looks like 3 back ones are a real pain.... any tricks?
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Honestly, it's really not that hard to get to the rear bank. Taking the TB and IM off took me about 20 minutes. It looks more daunting than it actually is. :)
 

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that's great to hear... I'll get it done soon
I want to use the torque wrench to torque the plugs in correctly - what is the torque spec?
 

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the correct torque is like 10-15 pounds....
 

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Honestly, it's really not that hard to get to the rear bank. Taking the TB and IM off took me about 20 minutes. It looks more daunting than it actually is. :)
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So how is the intake manifold gasket designed? Does it need to be replaced when removing it or is a reusable gasket? Any other gaskets or parts needed? Thanks
 

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it is a reuseable design that is like an o-ring.if it has no signs of damage just use it again.it is very easy to take the upper manifold off and the tb,even easier if the tb coolant bypass mod has been done.i changed my plugs out at 23k and noticed a big difference in idle quality.i still have to clean my maf sensor this weekend.
 

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it is a reuseable design that is like an o-ring.if it has no signs of damage just use it again.it is very easy to take the upper manifold off and the tb,even easier if the tb coolant bypass mod has been done.i changed my plugs out at 23k and noticed a big difference in idle quality.i still have to clean my maf sensor this weekend.
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Thanks...that was the design I figured they probably used with the plastic intake as they are trying to make many gaskets/oring seals multi-use now it seems. I just wanted someone to verify that for future reference. Just remember to take the oring off your MAF before you clean it so the cleaner doesn't swell it.
 
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