Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I finished deadening the front doors on my 6 yesterday. Now I have enough for either the floor, the rear doors or the trunk. Probably only enough for 1 layer of RAAMat and possibly 2 of Ensonite.

I'm looking at quieting the interior from road noise the most. Benefits of better sounding stereo is a pleasant side effect. Help me out everyone, please.

Thanks,
Sam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
142 Posts
Most of the noise after the doors are done will come from the floor and firewall. Mainly the firewall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I did the floor and footwell on the passenger side. I went as high as I could in the footwell. It made a noticeable difference on that side. Just by moving my head over to the other side its quieter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
856 Posts
How much have you used so far? This is my next project, just need to know how much to buy for the doors, floor, and trunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
I've been wanting to do mine. One of the guys herein posted in last week that he used some rubberized coating from Duplicolor to do the inside of his door trims. Sounded alot cheaper than Dynamat, or the like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I have used a little more than half of my roll of RAAMat so far. Should be enough to do the driver's side floor. This is putting on aproximately 1 1/2 layers as some places were very hollow sounding requiring 2 layers, yet others seemed fine with one layer. The Ensonite, I'm not sure of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,664 Posts
Actually I'm going to disagree with you both regarding most road noise coming from the floor and firewall. In my experience applying sound deadening to the roof had the biggest effect. I guess it has to do with the turbulence of the air moving over it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,221 Posts
Roof is a great area to put it, the rear wheel wells can also drum up a lot of noise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
Actually I'm going to disagree with you both regarding most road noise coming from the floor and firewall. In my experience applying sound deadening to the roof had the biggest effect. I guess it has to do with the turbulence of the air moving over it.
[/b]

do u have a sunroof?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The roof is another area I want to apply sound deadener. That is going to be quite a task, though and one I will wait on until later. I'll probably get something like the liquid SS stuff. That seems pretty thick and will only require one coat. I'll probably do the wheel wells at that time too.

I've already cut the noise down considerably with what I have done already. You can hear the areas that need attention now by moving your hear around in the cabin (if that makes sense). I can't wait to have it all deadened.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,550 Posts
i think what everyones tryin to say is just cover your car in this shit =)

o but i think the most noise is from the firewall, but i love the sound of my v6 !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
I finished deadening the front doors on my 6 yesterday. Now I have enough for either the floor, the rear doors or the trunk. Probably only enough for 1 layer of RAAMat and possibly 2 of Ensonite.

I'm looking at quieting the interior from road noise the most. Benefits of better sounding stereo is a pleasant side effect. Help me out everyone, please.

Thanks,
Sam
[/b]
Hi Sam, how much of the front doors were you able to apply the deadener to? Reading up on RAAMaudio's and the sounddeaderner shootout site it seems applying it to cover as much of every surface as possible reaps the most gains. I haven't taken apart the front doors but I did the rears last night to install some 6x8 Infinity's (4 ohms on a Bose system - yes, I know it's not supposed to be the best combo as I'm giving up some power but they sound great; way better than the stock 5.25"s, even if they're slightly lower in sound output at the same volume setting).

The rear doors have a plastic skin/shield that covers most of the inner panel. It's held on by a bunch of bolts all over the place. There's an opening up top covered by foam that's probably large enough to get my arm in to apply some matting, after removal of the foam. Other than this and the actual speaker opening I can't see any other openings to use to get inside the door to apply the mat, without taking off the plastic shield. Taking off the plastic shield doesn't look like something I'd want to tackle though, as the skin/shield is also the mounting point for the window motor.

From the photos I've seen of the front door, the above seems to be the same. Is this your experience? Did you only use the openings you could easily access without taking off the plastic skin? If so, how much deadener were you able to put on the inner surface of the outer skin, and on the inner metal skin/plastic skin?

One other thing I noticed. The rear speakers don't bolt to the metal skin of the door, but rather to this plastic skin/shield. Not an ideal situation, as the plastic is quite flexible, allowing the speaker to vibrate, causing loss of definition and volume, especially at low frequencies. I didn't see an easy fix for this though, as the metal inner skin of the door was nowhere near the speaker opening.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,030 Posts
The rear doors have a plastic skin/shield that covers most of the inner panel.[/b]

eh?

that is the case for the front doors too!!! The black skin has all the wiring attached to it an covres up the window mech.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Thanks for that info chikoo. I was going to pop off the panel to check this weekend but now you've saved me the trouble. Based on this I'd say it won't be possible to cover much of the inner surfaces of the door skins due to the amount of work involved in taking off the skin. Since the window motor is mounted to the skin I'm afraid to risk taking it off and having to screw around with the loose window glass and realigning it later.

This significantly alters my estimates for how much deadener is actually required for the doors. Probably 1.5 times the door surface at the most, as compared to 3 times as suggested by RAAM.

Sam, any comments since you seem to be the only one that has actually applied the deadener to the doors so far?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,912 Posts
I'm sure the door panels are the same on the speed6 as a regular 6, but I've dynamatted the inside of my doors... front and rear without any major issues. And the difference is great, its got a nice solid thump feel to it.

As for the black plastic, its not that trick. There's a bunch of screws that hold it in place, just unscrew them and the window motor. The motor only goes back in one way so there's really no real way of messing it up.
The window will slide down though, so you'll have to prop it up.

It can be done though, once unscrewed you have enough space to reach behind.

One day I want to do the roof cause I suspect that's where alot of sound deadening gains will be made.. just tap on it on the outside and you can hear inside the cabin. I suspect raining days will be much more quiet.

But taking off the headliner looks like a real PIA so I haven't bothered looking into it yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I took the plastic cover off. There is a nice big access to the door skin, which will allow you to deaden the doors very nicely. I was unable to disconnect all the electrical cables, but was able to work anyway. The door and lock cables can be tricky, though and must be removed.

About the window motors...
I had a lot of trouble with the first one, since I didn't really know what I was doing. The second one, was a piece of cake. I knew what to expect and window didn't fall, so that made it much easier. I would not deaden the doors without taking the plastic part off and doing the door skin.

I am more pleased with the door I applied the RAAMat and the Ensonit to than the one I only put RAAMat on. I will definately be putting Ensonite on the other door and ALL places I install RAAMat. The passenger side is quieter, having installed deadener to the floor on that side. Quite a difference. I hear lots of noise from the rear now. Not sure if its from the doors or the trunk. Probably both. I won't be doing anything for a while now, since I messed up my back yesterday and can hardly walk or sit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,334 Posts
Thanks for the info guys! I wasn't going to tackle removing the plastic panels, but since you've both said it doesn't affect the window operation (ie. doesn't require some kind of fancy realignment and motor only goes in one way) I'll give it a try then. Won't happen for a few weeks though, as I've just tried contacting RAAM and haven't actually ordered their deadener yet.

About the window motors...
I had a lot of trouble with the first one, since I didn't really know what I was doing. The second one, was a piece of cake. I knew what to expect and window didn't fall, so that made it much easier. I would not deaden the doors without taking the plastic part off and doing the door skin.

[/b]
Any tips on what to watch out for? I'd appreciate learning from your experiences rather than making mistakes due to my ignorance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
352 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I found that the motor and the windows will not line up exactly how it came off. I aligned the motor with the window gear and just twisted the motor until the bolt holes lined up. That seemed to work the best. You will want to leave enough bolts for the plastic cover out to be able to put your hand behind the plastic cover to push the gear into the motor. That was the most difficult part.

It is nice that the windows get programmed every time. When I did my first window, I wasn't sure I would be able to make it open/close all the way, since the window was half way down by the time I got it back in the motor.

It the glass does start to slide down, just make sure you pull the glass straight up and down so it doesn't jam. It tends to want to tilt until everything is back in alignment.

I can't think of anything else right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,912 Posts
My experience: roll up all the windows high (fully closed) and this aligns the motor cogs. Then it pops off, and when you pop it back in it is auto-alighned. I never had any issues on all 4 doors using this approach.

I just cut a piece of the sound deading material and plastered it in the track of where window rolls down on one corner to hold the window in place -- cause whent he motor has been removed the window will slide down (slowly). Then when you put the motor back in, the little chunk of deadening material holds up the window in the original position while you re-put the little cogs together.

I undid all the bolts and as much of the wiring as I could. I didnt bother undoing the lock cable from the door handle cause it looked like a PITA to put back in... so I just dangled the black plastic and put my hands/dynamat in behind and worked from there.

It is TIME consumig though, so take your time and maybe do one door per day.

One day I want to do the headliner for sure... but it looks like alot of work so I've been lazy. If you ever take the liner off let me know of any tips... cause I still think alot of gains can be made there... its almost paper thin.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top