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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ca' rap!!! I spent 40 minutes trying to get that damn motor mount bolt to move and nothing. The bolt was already starting to show some wear. I even called SU to make sure I was using the right mm socket (supposedly 17mm) and that bastard was still not going anywhere. :swearin:

I've given up... I'm going to have to take it to the dealer this week for an early oil change (first one is free right?, :D ) And I'll just have them do it I guess. I'm also going to have them check the verticle vibration on the steering - happens when driving at average to spirited driving speeds. :irate:

Anyway, did I mention that stock motor mount is a pain in the arse?! Did you guys end up having someone else do it or did you eat your wheaties?
 

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Ca' rap!!! I spent 40 minutes trying to get that damn motor mount bolt to move and nothing. The bolt was already starting to show some wear. I even called SU to make sure I was using the right mm socket (supposedly 17mm) and that bastard was still not going anywhere. :swearin:

I've given up... I'm going to have to take it to the dealer this week for an early oil change (first one is free right?, :D ) And I'll just have them do it I guess. I'm also going to have them check the verticle vibration on the steering - happens when driving at average to spirited driving speeds. :irate:

Anyway, did I mention that stock motor mount is a pain in the arse?! Did you guys end up having someone else do it or did you eat your wheaties?[/b]
I haven't changed mine yet but I have heard stories about it. Planning to change but I figure I might as well let the dealer do it since they have a lift and supposedly its easier that way. Allows for better leverage to remove the OEM motor mount, which btw sucks ass. Does your OEM show any sign of tearing or anything?

Anyway, I guess what I'm saying that, yes it is a bitch to get out. Good luck with it.

Also I believe that the vertical vibration in the steering wheel that you speak of is just a bumpy road. Thats what seems plausible to me.

:drive: :drive:
 

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Everyone I've seen post about installing the mount has done it themself save for one guy that just posted not to long ago. He had the dealer do it for about $18. That's ultra cheap.

I plan on installing my CP-E mount soon. It's just sitting on my garage shelf right now teasing me.
 

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Everyone I've seen post about installing the mount has done it themself save for one guy that just posted not to long ago. He had the dealer do it for about $18.[/b]
Haha. then I guess my ears are just hearing things.

$18 is not a bad fee for the dealer to do it...unless it takes like 5 minutes and just requires a socket wrench.

Off topic, but somewhat similar, when I got my cargo net, they wanted to charge me $45 to install it. I laughed and did it in 10 min compared to their half hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I hope I can do it myself while they change the oil. I can just have them loosen the bolt and I'll do the rest. Not sure if they're willing because of insurance policies or what not but I'm going to ask... maybe I'll just give the service tech some money on the side and call it a day.

No wear on the motor mount that I noticed. My car barely broke 3k miles but it's jerk happy, that's for sure!
 

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One little trick that can help is to put a foot long piece of pipe over the socket wrench handle to improve your leverage under the car, on your back. You can also give the socket wrench handle a couple of quick strikes with a hammer to break it loose.

Also, PB Blaster works wonders...spray some of that one, and try again in a day or so.

Just a couple ideas...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One little trick that can help is to put a foot long piece of pipe over the socket wrench handle to improve your leverage under the car, on your back. You can also give the socket wrench handle a couple of quick strikes with a hammer to break it loose.

Also, PB Blaster works wonders...spray some of that one, and try again in a day or so.

Just a couple ideas...[/b]
Yep... did the hammer thing... didn't work :( I didn't have a pipe so I used the other end of an open wrench and nada. Never heard of PB Blaster... what's that supposed to do???
 

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Yep... did the hammer thing... didn't work :( I didn't have a pipe so I used the other end of an open wrench and nada. Never heard of PB Blaster... what's that supposed to do???[/b]
PB Blaster is a penetrating agent that will free up severly corroded/rusted bolts, and it works just as well even when corrosion is not preset. In the case of your bolt, if you spray that all over the bolt area, then let it penetrate for a day or so, I bet you'll find you can break it.

It's awesome stuff...
 

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It really was not that hard for me...

It was hard to start but just got a good size wrench, and gave it one of those "I'm gonna rip your heart out" kind of pulls. After the initial click, it's easy. And for that big ol bolt.. the threads don't really connect until the other side of the mount. So if you can put a shoulder into the engine, you are good to go. Give it the hard shoulder, relieve the cross tension and remove like butter.
 

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Ca' rap!!! I spent 40 minutes trying to get that damn motor mount bolt to move and nothing. The bolt was already starting to show some wear. I even called SU to make sure I was using the right mm socket (supposedly 17mm) and that bastard was still not going anywhere. :swearin:

I've given up... I'm going to have to take it to the dealer this week for an early oil change (first one is free right?, :D ) And I'll just have them do it I guess. I'm also going to have them check the verticle vibration on the steering - happens when driving at average to spirited driving speeds. :irate:

Anyway, did I mention that stock motor mount is a pain in the arse?! Did you guys end up having someone else do it or did you eat your wheaties?[/b]
I changed mine out and all I had to use was a 3/8" rachet, no breaker bar. You have not got the bolt to break loose at all or are you having trouble geting the bolt all of the way out. If it is the latter, try pulling the motor toward the back of the car to take the weight/tension off of the bolt. Which bolt are you having trouble with.
 

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Please dont take this the wrong way, just relating something similar that happens to me - but are you sure you were turning the correct way? Alot of times when ya get on your back under a car directions tend to get screwed up, and I'll end up going clockwise instead of counter-clockwise, hence tightening not loosening a bolt correctly. I feel pretty foolish once I figure it out, but I've seen it happen to other too. With only 3K on the car its hard to be,ieve the bolt has seized up so much, where even the hammer/pipe trick doesnt work. Shrug, just a suggestion.
 

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I just have to say breaker bar.. go to sears and buy a "high quality" 2 ft piece of metal with a 1/2" socket and you'll never worry about this again... or you'll break the bolt where it sits. But at least you'll know you're strong enough to do it :)
 

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1/2" drive breaker bar FTW
if there's one thing I've learned throughout the years working on cars is have the right tools.
 

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I most definitely love mine. The only times it hasn't broken a bolt loose immediately was when I was trying to remove tie rod ends from my old grand prix. But when a part is 145k miles + 9 years and riding in the path of Ohio salt and spray for all that time... what are you expecting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the reply guys... well, I also was checking to make sure I wasn't an idiot trying to loosen the bolt when I may have been tightening it. But just to make sure my idioticy wasn't lingering... when you face the bolt, it's counter-clockwise right? So, you would be moving the rachet towards the front of the car. I'm going to try again this weekend. I'll check Sears tomorrow for the breaker bar.

So, all I'll need is a 1/2" socket? Was I using the wrong socket before (17mm)?

Also, here's a stupid question... I put my car on stands and having the jack lifted the front of the car... where would you guys recommend I put the stands? That way I can remove the jack and have more 'room' to loosen that bastard bolt.

Of course, if anyone is in the ATL area and has a breaker bar, that would help too :D
 

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Thanks for the reply guys... well, I also was checking to make sure I wasn't an idiot trying to loosen the bolt when I may have been tightening it. But just to make sure my idioticy wasn't lingering... when you face the bolt, it's counter-clockwise right? So, you would be moving the rachet towards the front of the car. I'm going to try again this weekend. I'll check Sears tomorrow for the breaker bar.

So, all I'll need is a 1/2" socket? Was I using the wrong socket before (17mm)?

Also, here's a stupid question... I put my car on stands and having the jack lifted the front of the car... where would you guys recommend I put the stands? That way I can remove the jack and have more 'room' to loosen that bastard bolt.

Of course, if anyone is in the ATL area and has a breaker bar, that would help too :D[/b]
They mean a 1/2" drive socket - not the actual socket size. Most larger breaker bars use at least 1/2" drive (the size of the square part the socket actually attaches to) . Get a nice swivel head 1/2" drive Craftsman breaker bar from Sears (get the swivel and not the fixed head since they cost about the same and if you ever manage to break the swivel head its got a lifetime warranty) and a 17mm 1/2" drive socket. I bet you can pop that baby right off w/o even needing a length of pipe.
 

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So, all I'll need is a 1/2" socket? Was I using the wrong socket before (17mm)?[/b]
Random piece of trivia that I use all the time: 1/2 inch = 13mm (so 17mm would be way too big...as long as it fits on the bolt snuggly you're fine). I use 1/2" sockets all the time when I lose my 13mm.
 

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Random piece of trivia that I use all the time: 1/2 inch = 13mm (so 17mm would be way too big...as long as it fits on the bolt snuggly you're fine). I use 1/2" sockets all the time when I lose my 13mm.[/b]
Don't confus him, you need a 17 MM socked, the 1/2 inch drive is simply for studiness, a 3/8ths may break. Impact gun for the win!
 
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