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I've never seen anything MANN makes that is junk; my TDI is a cartridge filter, so you can SEE the element you're putting in there. (It also goes in from the top so not only can you do a zero-mess change you can do it from the TOP sucking the oil out the dipstick tube! 10 minute oil changes without ramps or a lift for the win!)

As long as MANN has built it specifically for the SkyActiv engines I'd have no quarrel with it, but is it objectively "better" than the OE filter? Well, doubt it, given that the UOAs I'm getting really don't leave any room for improvement in performance and I typically run the full 7500 mile OCI too, so if I was running out of filter capacity I'd have seen some evidence of it by now. If the MANN is more expensive than the OE then the big question would by "why?"
 
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I've never seen anything MANN makes that is junk; my TDI is a cartridge filter, so you can SEE the element you're putting in there. (It also goes in from the top so not only can you do a zero-mess change you can do it from the TOP sucking the oil out the dipstick tube! 10 minute oil changes without ramps or a lift for the win!)

As long as MANN has built it specifically for the SkyActiv engines I'd have no quarrel with it, but is it objectively "better" than the OE filter? Well, doubt it, given that the UOAs I'm getting really don't leave any room for improvement in performance and I typically run the full 7500 mile OCI too, so if I was running out of filter capacity I'd have seen some evidence of it by now. If the MANN is more expensive than the OE then the big question would by "why?"
Well, someone would need to cut both of them open to confirm. It would be interesting if you did a UOA at roughly half that mileage to see how the 7500mile oil fared in comparison.
 

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I wouldn’t hesitate to run a Mann filter. Many filters actually filter better than Japanese OE filters. You can try running UOA and comparing various filters, but you need enough historical data to be able to establish sigma, so you know whether any differences you see are due to operating changes vs normal variation. Don’t forget to find out and account for test repeatability. (-;

Or, you can just skip back to the statistical analysis I linked earlier in the thread. That analysis shows that oil filter brand has no statistically significant impact on UOA results from a macro point of view. You need a lot of data on your individual vehicle to show a difference on a micro level.
 

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Well, someone would need to cut both of them open to confirm. It would be interesting if you did a UOA at roughly half that mileage to see how the 7500mile oil fared in comparison.
I have a couple in my series that are at roughly 5,000 mile intervals -- no statistically-significant difference in results.

There's no evidence that filter brand or spend, provided it meets the requirements of the application, has a statistically-significant impact. Nor does the brand of oil used. That's been run to the ground with fairly large samples across multiple engine types; there are enough engines of a number of series out there with enough UOA samples that if there was a statistically-significant impact it would have been identified long ago, and the evidence is simply not there for it.
 

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A lot of you have shared some great thoughts and perspectives on oil filters and I greatly appreciate that. I'm definitely not a mechanic but I do change my own oil and do small projects on cars myself. My thoughts on oil filters has always been the same. Buy the OEM branded one. I always ran Subaru filters on my Subaru, Toyota filters on my Toyota etc. My friends always asked me why I did that and some claimed I was wasting money but I have always thought if the OE puts their name on the filter then surely it must be fine for the car. With all the engineering that goes into vehicles these days and that company puts their name on the filter then I am sure it is more than adequate. Plus if any mechanical issues come up under warranty you can build your case by saying you always used OE filters. Just my two cents.
 
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A lot of you have shared some great thoughts and perspectives on oil filters and I greatly appreciate that. I'm definitely not a mechanic but I do change my own oil and do small projects on cars myself. My thoughts on oil filters has always been the same. Buy the OEM branded one. I always ran Subaru filters on my Subaru, Toyota filters on my Toyota etc. My friends always asked me why I did that and some claimed I was wasting money but I have always thought if the OE puts their name on the filter then surely it must be fine for the car. With all the engineering that goes into vehicles these days and that company puts their name on the filter then I am sure it is more than adequate. Plus if any mechanical issues come up under warranty you can build your case by saying you always used OE filters. Just my two cents.
I believe Fram makes OEM filters for Honda. I wont go so far as to trust every single OEM product you see for every car.
 

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Or, you can just skip back to the statistical analysis I linked earlier in the thread. That analysis shows that oil filter brand has no statistically significant impact on UOA results from a macro point of view.
I should have said this differently. What the macro data show is that what oil filter is used has no statistically significant impact on UOA results.
 

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Fram makes the best-filtering option on the market, based on standardized testing. ;-)
 

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I believe Fram makes OEM filters for Honda. I wont go so far as to trust every single OEM product you see for every car.
Fram didn't make Honda filters originally Filtech manufactured the best OEM filters for our Honda Accord, unfortunately Honda cheaped out on filters after that...I was able to find the original Filtech filters on eBay and bought a bunch. Mazda did EXACTLY the same thing last year, dumping the original Tokyo Roki filters for some Thai crap. Again, I managed to find the original filters on eBay and layed in a stock of them.
 

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... Mazda did EXACTLY the same thing last year, dumping the original Tokyo Roki filters for some Thai crap. Again, I managed to find the original filters on eBay and layed in a stock of them.
I thought the Thai plant was run /owned by Tokyo Roki... I would have preferred the OEM supplied PE01-14-302 A or B 66mm Tokyo Roki filters (made in Japan) for my '17 Mazda6 - but I have been unable to source them. What leads u to say the Thai filters are not as good? Incidentally, I did hear that the Mexican "Value Line" Mazda-branded filters are not of the same quality... but I don't have concrete info as to why.
 

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Every time the US dealers source filters elsewhere, in an attempt to save money, the guts aren't as robust as the originals. I will verify evidence for the Mazda filters in about 4,500 miles when I remove and dissect the Thai filter placed on our car by the dealer.
 

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Sounds like some Bob-Is-The-Oil-Guy inspired filter paranoia up in here, haha. The "worst" oil filter on the market probably has a 1 in 5 million failure rate while the "best" has a 1 in 4.99995 million failure rate.

If anyone has actual statistical data (anecdotal is worse than useless, especially on the internet IMO) that shows one filter led to catastrophic failure more often than another one, I'd love to see it. Just change your oil and filter on time, brand doesn't matter.
 

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I would say catastrophic failure is not a concern. Rather, the paper filter that separates internally and therefor no longer filters particles well, is of concern. I feel the cumulative effect of that, is premature engine failure, and while it will eventually happen regardless I would prefer later rather than sooner.

There are numerous industry and graduate papers comparing the metrics of filter performance that do show quantifiable differences in particulate removal.

Of course in the end, use what you like.

Cheers
 
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