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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gang!! It's been a while since I've posted and I want to get back into it. I was looking on how to do a build thread built I guess I'll just do it here:grin2:. I just post all of my progress past and present for my 03 6S. My baby girl is of age where I can start working on things and check in on her or she won't get into things while I'm working so I'm excited to get started. A little background of what I like to do is I make custom LED lighting for my vehicles when time and efforts permit. I will be doing a complete HID Retrofit along with building my own LED arrays to do LED retrofits as well. But not everything posted here will be all about lighting so..

I have a huge build in store for the front end and I'm still in the planing stages for the rear. I know exactly what I want the front to look and act(more on this later :wink2:). Maybe once I get the front done I'll have a better idea for the rear. I may do some things outside the box so please bare with me.

Here is a little something that I already have in hand and ready to start on
1525479771977.jpg
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Also had to give a slight preview of the new mesh going in:grin2:. I will be installing the fog lights this weekend along with new mesh. While I have the front bumper off, I will be installing my HID harness, ballasts, and replacing the bulbs in both fog and low beams. This show improve my visibility drastically until I get all of the projectors ordered and in. When I do finally get to retrofit the headlights, all the ballasts will have already been ran and so I can just plug them in and be done.

The clear lenses in the pic I won't be able to use. I bought them but the reflector is in the lens vs the housing so one couldn't see any custom work inside of it. I'll order a new pair here shortly to cut open and build an array. I did get to do some testing on a new product (to me) that I will be using.

Here you can see that the reflective prism is in the lens.
1525483065584.jpg

Side by side comparison of that light and some of my past work.
1525483067645.jpg

With the new side markers that I will order having the reflector in the base of the housing, I needed to come up with a way to still have a reflector on the side. Started to look around on the net and found this Black Reflective tape. It's black during the day but shows up silver when light hits it.

No flash.
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With flash.
1525483063680.jpg

I ran continuity test on the tape and it's non conducive so it was on to the next test.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
With it passing the continuity test, it was time to go ahead and do a mounting test. For this test I just used a spare piece of lexan that I had laying around to mount the tape and LEDs to. I needed to see how well this would stick and look AFTER the heat of the LEDs being soldered.
I wanted to make sure that the tape would still stick as well as make sure that it would not deform while the heat was put to it during soldering.

These are the amber LEDs that I will be using. Cree amber P4s.
1525479782301.jpg

All soldered up.
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I was happy with the outcome. The tape held up very well. It didn't lose any stickiness and it did not deform under the heat. 2 more test down!!

No flash with LEDs
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With flash with LEDs
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At this point I'm digging the tape but I still needed to see what it would do behind the lens and what it would look like once the LEDs were powered. I popped my little test board into an old clear housing from my old Eclipse for this next test. It was all "cross my fingers" at this point because if it didn't reflect right, I'd have to find something different to use.

Behind lens with no flash.
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Behind lens with flash.
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LET THERE BE POWER!!!
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This tape rocks for what I'm wanting to use it for. I will be using it just like in the test but on a board made for our cars :wink2:. I had thought of other ways to use it just like the bikers have been on their bikes and helmets. It made me think of another test.<_<. In this one I wanted to see what it would look like under a clear coat of paint directly on it. I took a small piece of it and stuck it to a piece of cardboard. I hit it with 3 coats of clear and let is dry.

No flash.
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Flash!!
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It looks great under the clear coat. Best of all it's sealed down to the cardboard now. This is nice to know for the future馃槑!
 

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Got yourself some good projects to work on. Keep it up and keep us updated on your progress - I'm sure everything will look great on your 6 :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got yourself some good projects to work on. Keep it up and keep us updated on your progress - I'm sure everything will look great on your 6 :D
Why yes I do lol. It's nice to be able to get back into making a car "mine". Slowly but surely it's getting there but have so much more planned. I will definitely keep this up to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So on the past Saturday and Sunday I spent getting the car ready for the retrofit. I still need to order projectors but I had a light out anyway so why not get the wiring all done and out of the way. With the increase in the lighting, I still needed to do something the the lenses.

Here is the car at the beginning waiting for surgery lol. As you can see, my lights needed help.:grin2:
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I took 3 HID harnesses and made them into 1 "main" harness. This harness will be just for the headlights. Slowly but surely I will be cutting the drivers side headlight plug out and will have the passengers side unplugged and capped off. All of my connections will be soldered and heatshrunk. I like knowing that it won't cause an issue later on :wink2: while I was at it, I went ahead and ran the harness for the lower fogs that I had ordered just for the "sports" bumper.

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With the bulk of the harness ran, it's easy for me to fine tune the length of the wires. Then it was on to the lights:|. I spent about 1 hour on each light getting it ready for a clear coat. I wet sanded them starting with 400 and work all the way to 2000 grit. (No boring pics of it lol) Once done I hit them with a clear coat but it ended up wrinkled on me. I then spent another 2 hour wet sanding the lights down because of it smh. At this point I needed to stop on the lights and get the ballast mounted. I found the spot that the factory D2S ballast mount to on the bottom.

1525647089280.jpg

This was just a quick and dirty adaptor that I made to fit the ballast. I will make another one later to hold the 3 ballast that are going to be going to the lights in the same location. I was getting rushed on time because I needed to be able to drive it. While I still had the bumper cover off, I figured I'd mount the fog lights and change out side markers. I then had to mount the new mesh. I tried to use the factory mounting tabs to hold it in place but this caused unwanted dents and cause it to look uneven. Good thing I bought 2 sheets :grin2:

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I will let it ride like this until I get the projectors in for the retrofit. It still looks ok for the time being. It's still a work in progress so it's fine for now lol. It was time to just get her back together and on the ground. The next time I have the bumper off, it will be a much quicker ordeal. For the most part, I'm happy with what I got done on it over the weekend.

Here she is after the end of Sunday!

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35w 5500k H1s in the lows and halogens in both fogs...... for now:wink2:

This is the beginning of the updated facelift.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Today was a little different. Still giving it some love but more on the maintenance side of it. I need to do the valve cover gaskets but the engine bay was filthy. I needed to try and clean it up a bit before I do the gaskets due to 15 years of who knows what.

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I wasn't sure where I wanted to start on trying to clean this thing but one of the people I subscribe to on YouTube has a video of just that.
https://youtu.be/PRSoRkM8GcM
This guy is very informative about diy automotive. So with my supplies ready and knowing a plan of attack, it was time to get to it.
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After hours of cleaning, scrubbing, spraying, and using the air compressor, I was ok with a stopping point.
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With the engine in a better condition, I'll be ready to tackle the gaskets next weekend. I didn't want to get too involved with the car due to mothers day being tomorrow. Once I know the engine is better sealed I'll do a much deeper cleaning and detailing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not much to update today other than the retrofit will be put on hold until fall. The reason for this is because I saw a short video preview of the new Morimoto mini D2s 5.0!!!:surprise: By the looks of the short clip, these are going to blow the 4.0s out of the water. I'd be pissed if I had gotten the 4.0s next month and 3 months later the 5.0 comes out. Thankfully I follow TRS on Facebook and the vid showed up on my feed.

With that said, it just gives me more time to prep. I just ordered 35w 4500k H3Cs for the head fogs that I can install sometime this weekend. It also gives me a chance to get to the junkyard and grab some internals from some other headlamps as spares and work on mounting the LEDs to the Demon Eye boards. Hell at this point I can even rip the lights apart here and there and paint the bezels. By the time the 5.0s come out, hopefully all I would have to do is order them up, pop my lights open for the last time, install and boom, done! Of course that's in a perfect world:grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
LED fun!!

Well my plans for the weekend were a wash out. I had planned on doing the valve cover gaskets this weekend but it was a wet weekend here in Fl. Decided to work on the Demon eyes instead. This way the engine and I both stayed dry:grin2:. If I would have started them 1st thing on Saturday morning, I could have had them done before it rained. But with my luck, it would have started raining as soon as I got all set up. It wasn't all a washout for being productive for the weekend.

With the weather being iffy, it was time to go ahead and get the Demon Eye boards built and ready for the retrofit. My plan for the front is to have demon eyes in each spot inside the headlights and the now the lower fogs. With the 2 projectors already there and the turn and high beam spots, why not. The high beam locations will be getting a set mini h1projectors and I'm not sure about the turn at this point. I do have a thought though:wink2:

These boards were made out of electronic perfboard, Red 20ma superflux LEDs, 4 wire ribbon cable, and some resistors. With a prototype made up and working, time to mass produce lol.
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Each board consists of 2 sets of LEDs. One set ( 2 leds ) will be hooked up to a 3 position rocker switch hooked up in reverse. Basically I will have the center running to the led arrays ground. This will give me the ability to flip the switch up or down and pull inputs from 2 different sources and have the eyes act the way I want depending on the source it's on. The 2nd set will be hooked up at a later day. I don't want to give it all away right now :lol:

At this point all the boards were painted, soldered and reinforced to the solid core ribbon cable. I chose this cable for many reasons. It's compact and gave me the amount of connections that I needed. It also has a little bit of form memory to it which is perfect for fitting it in place and it staying. With all of this done, it was time to call it a day.
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Oh!!! Look what showed up in the mail. While working on the boards, my fog bulbs came in ( kind of ). I ordered 2 sets so I could have a spare set laying around but the seller only sent 1. Contacted him and he is sending the 2nd set this week. Morimoto XB 35w H3C 4.5k
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Come Sunday morning, all I had left to do was to make the transition from solid core ribbon cable to mutistrain flexible wire. With the leds be such a low current, I used some 22ga speaker wire. The ribbon cable is great for inside the headlights due to the fact that it doesn't have to move. The connection at the headlights need to be able to flex some due to the nature of having to be able to move the harness around. All connections were soldered and heatshrunk and the transition was made!!
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The only thing left for the boards to be 100% done is the connectors. I need to find and order some bare 4 pin JST connectors and pins. This way I can cut the ribbon cable and put the connectors in. By doing this, when I go to change or upgrade a board, it would be as simple as unplugging the the connectors and switching boards at their location. All of the wiring can stay inside the housing and I would not have to do any soldering for a simple board change.

Not a bad productive weekend towards the retrofit!! :dmetal:
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey everyone!! It's been almost 2 months since I've done anything to (or even drove) my car. It hit 180k even (I'll upload the pic later) and developed a misfire in #4 cylinder. I figured it had to have been the coils that I've had on the car for the 3 years that I've had it. I got them as a set of 6 on eBay for less than $40. 3 years and 30k miles didn't seem bad for eBay coils to me lol. Anyway got a new set of coils and plugs for her and did the front bank just to get rid of the misfire so I wasn't down a car. Sadly, this was not the case. After the quick change it still had a misfire on #4 .

Being discouraged and busy, I didn't look anymore into it. Finally had time this past weekend to take the plugs back out to have a better look. It seems as if the injector is not working in #4 . Not being able to hear it or test it without taking the car apart, I just ordered up a set of refurbished injectors that will be here Friday. While I'm at it, I'll be doing the rear plugs and coils, pcv valve, and upper and lower intake gaskets.

This should fix the issue and get it back on the road. I have so much in store for it and can't wait to drive it again. I've had to drive my wife's 2000 VW beetle :crying:<_<
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Wow, haven't updated in quite a while. The car still lives and I'm still around. Not much got done with the car last year. This year and the up coming years are going to get interesting.

Since my last post, I did get the injectors in and sorted out. The car ran like a champ with fresh clean rebuilt injectors, new plugs, new coils, and a good cleaning of the intake manifold both upper and lower. She did great for a few months after until about 3 weeks before Christmas. That's when some untimely stuff started to happen. The battery light started to come on and go off randomly. It had a mind of its own. I went and popped the hood to discover that my battery had started to swell up and was leaking everywhere!!! Stressed out that the battery has taking a dump at the worst time of the year, I looked into changing the battery setup. I had a spare battery laying around that I kept from my 97 eclipse. Hey a battery is a battery right lol. The post were on the wrong side compared to the stock 6 battery. Beings that it was the same brand that I just took out of the car, I kind of didn't want to put it in. I made a call to my brother that day and asked him to see if his father in law still had some Optima Red tops laying around the shop from when they changed all of the generator batteries. Luck so has it that he did and brought 1 home for me that day!!!. Still the battery would not go in without having to do some sort of modifications due to the way the posts were set up.

This wasn't a big deal because when I put the audio in the car, I made custom battery mounted busbars.
1492651167655.jpg
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Beings that I had these and had 0ga wire ran to the trunk of the car, I decided to relocate the battery to the trunk. I took the busbars off of the battery terminals and screwed them to a piece of wood to hold them down. Found some nice places to zip tie the wood to the car so that it wasn't just flopping around in there. Definitely didn't want that to happen.
1549898296982.jpg

This is just a temporary solution until I make some new busbars and clean up the wiring. I have some 1/2 PVC sheet that I will be making cleaner looking wiring solutions. I'll basically be making my own SMD style fuse holders. Just need to get the copper plate at this point. No need to pay 90 bucks for something that I can make for a fraction of the price. They will look something like this
img_6743_3.jpg

I'll do one big one with both ground and power to replace the busbars in the front and then the same for the rear near the battery.
1549898304375.jpg

I like things looking nicer than what I have it now. The way I look at it now is function over looks. Things will get cleaned up and mounted properly in the next coming months.

After doing all of this, the car fired right up and ran like a champ. Took it out for a test drive and all was good.... until the battery light came on:surprise:. Flabbergasted that it came on and went off again, I got my volt meter back out and started running test. At the front busbars I was getting 14.6 with the car running. I went to the trunk and tested the battery. 14.5. Shaking my head at trying to figure out what was going on while having the meter still hooked up to the battery, that's when it showed it's true colors. The meter pegged out at the 20 volt setting!!! This was a sign that the alt was on its way out. It was keeping the battery charged so I was still able to drive it around if I had to. I didn't really like having to drive the car that way but beings that it was Christmas, I kinda had to. Changing the alt out was not on my list of things I wanted to do during the holidays lol.

I drove it on and off when I needed to like that until last weekend (Feb 2019). I would only drive the car when I had to go pick my son up from school. Any other time I needed to drive, I would wait until my wife got home from work so I could take her little bug to do whatever I needed to do. If I was anything other than a stay at home dad and had to drive the car daily, I would have changed it sooner but it was fine.

Now that the battery and alt are all good now, I can get some other maintenance done as well as some fun stuff. Still wanting to do the retrofit but it's not a pressing matter. I have a complete front suspension kit ready to go on the car as of now from Detroit Axle. Now I know these are not the best but it was an entire front end kit for less that 300 bucks.( I don't remember what I paid for them) I got it off of either eBay or Amazon. What this kit will allow me to do is have the front end nice and tight for a little while. As parts start to fade, I'll replace them in pairs with better brand or oem components. The drivers side CV axle is shot so that will be done at the same time. The only things I don't have yet to do the job right is trans fluid, filter and gasket set, and I'm wanting to replace the 16yo front and rear springs. The rear sags bad and will bottom out if I have passengers in the rear. With the added weight of the subs and enclosure and the amps on a suspended amp rack, these rear springs have no fighting chance. Can someone say coilover time lol.:wink2:
 

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Wow, haven't updated in quite a while. The car still lives and I'm still around. Not much got done with the car last year. This year and the up coming years are going to get interesting.

Since my last post, I did get the injectors in and sorted out. The car ran like a champ with fresh clean rebuilt injectors, new plugs, new coils, and a good cleaning of the intake manifold both upper and lower. She did great for a few months after until about 3 weeks before Christmas. That's when some untimely stuff started to happen. The battery light started to come on and go off randomly. It had a mind of its own. I went and popped the hood to discover that my battery had started to swell up and was leaking everywhere!!! Stressed out that the battery has taking a dump at the worst time of the year, I looked into changing the battery setup. I had a spare battery laying around that I kept from my 97 eclipse. Hey a battery is a battery right lol. The post were on the wrong side compared to the stock 6 battery. Beings that it was the same brand that I just took out of the car, I kind of didn't want to put it in. I made a call to my brother that day and asked him to see if his father in law still had some Optima Red tops laying around the shop from when they changed all of the generator batteries. Luck so has it that he did and brought 1 home for me that day!!!. Still the battery would not go in without having to do some sort of modifications due to the way the posts were set up.

This wasn't a big deal because when I put the audio in the car, I made custom battery mounted busbars.
View attachment 226366
View attachment 226368


Beings that I had these and had 0ga wire ran to the trunk of the car, I decided to relocate the battery to the trunk. I took the busbars off of the battery terminals and screwed them to a piece of wood to hold them down. Found some nice places to zip tie the wood to the car so that it wasn't just flopping around in there. Definitely didn't want that to happen.
View attachment 226370

This is just a temporary solution until I make some new busbars and clean up the wiring. I have some 1/2 PVC sheet that I will be making cleaner looking wiring solutions. I'll basically be making my own SMD style fuse holders. Just need to get the copper plate at this point. No need to pay 90 bucks for something that I can make for a fraction of the price. They will look something like this
View attachment 226372

I'll do one big one with both ground and power to replace the busbars in the front and then the same for the rear near the battery.
View attachment 226374

I like things looking nicer than what I have it now. The way I look at it now is function over looks. Things will get cleaned up and mounted properly in the next coming months.

After doing all of this, the car fired right up and ran like a champ. Took it out for a test drive and all was good.... until the battery light came on:surprise:. Flabbergasted that it came on and went off again, I got my volt meter back out and started running test. At the front busbars I was getting 14.6 with the car running. I went to the trunk and tested the battery. 14.5. Shaking my head at trying to figure out what was going on while having the meter still hooked up to the battery, that's when it showed it's true colors. The meter pegged out at the 20 volt setting!!! This was a sign that the alt was on its way out. It was keeping the battery charged so I was still able to drive it around if I had to. I didn't really like having to drive the car that way but beings that it was Christmas, I kinda had to. Changing the alt out was not on my list of things I wanted to do during the holidays lol.

I drove it on and off when I needed to like that until last weekend (Feb 2019). I would only drive the car when I had to go pick my son up from school. Any other time I needed to drive, I would wait until my wife got home from work so I could take her little bug to do whatever I needed to do. If I was anything other than a stay at home dad and had to drive the car daily, I would have changed it sooner but it was fine.

Now that the battery and alt are all good now, I can get some other maintenance done as well as some fun stuff. Still wanting to do the retrofit but it's not a pressing matter. I have a complete front suspension kit ready to go on the car as of now from Detroit Axle. Now I know these are not the best but it was an entire front end kit for less that 300 bucks.( I don't remember what I paid for them) I got it off of either eBay or Amazon. What this kit will allow me to do is have the front end nice and tight for a little while. As parts start to fade, I'll replace them in pairs with better brand or oem components. The drivers side CV axle is shot so that will be done at the same time. The only things I don't have yet to do the job right is trans fluid, filter and gasket set, and I'm wanting to replace the 16yo front and rear springs. The rear sags bad and will bottom out if I have passengers in the rear. With the added weight of the subs and enclosure and the amps on a suspended amp rack, these rear springs have no fighting chance. Can someone say coilover time lol.:wink2:


Great update! The Detroit axle stuff is pretty good I used a complete set (odds are the same one you have) and I鈥檝e put 13,000 trouble free miles on mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I have some DA on my car as of now but I only got about 20k out of them. Went with them again but for the entire front now. If I can get another 20k out of them for now, I'll be happy. I will be looking to replace them with something more sturdier later on as stated. The boots for the joints just didn't hold up over time. I think it's the rubber compound that they use. Either that or they don't like FL weather lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So, today I tried to paint my engine cover. I'll have to redo it because so much was just wrong with it. The tape left a residue behind, I missed some of the lines that I was going for, and the colors are not what I'm after. I went ahead and finished it up anyway just to get an idea of what it could be. Sometime next week I'll strip it down and wet sand it again and start over. For the most part, it turned out ok but just not happy with the turn out.

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As you can see, the tape did not come clean like it had said. I'll try the green frog tape next to see how that is plus may let the black coat sit overnight before I tape it off for the red. The black will be changed to a flat or semi-gloss and I'm looking for a darker red. Either a blood or some sort of burgundy.

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This tape turned out to be a hard nope lol.
 

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Like what you are doing, keep it up! I also plan on doing the morimoto swap too so I'm keeping an eye on your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Headlight fun!

Today I decided that it would be a good day to take the headlights off of the car. I've had hid bulbs and ballast ready to go into the fogs but just haven't had the time. My son has a 4 day weekend home from school so I didn't need to drive the car. I also wanted to take the bezels out of the lights to get them ready for paint.

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The passenger side low beam light wasn't able to be aligned correctly due to the adjuster being broken at some point. The ball holder was broken and the projector would just wobble. Last year I used some wire to hold it in place until I could get out to a yard and get a new adjuster socket. While it held it in place, I still wanted to get it fixed and didn't want to pay for a whole headlight when I just needed 1 part.

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With that taken care of, it was on to installing the hid bulbs and ballasts into the fog lights (No pics of this) . I sealed back up the lights after I removed both bezels. I'll run naked for a little bit lol. I needed to make new ballast plates to accommodate the new ballast on each light. I wanted to use some aluminum that I have laying around but I didn't have any cutoff wheels for the grinder and my pneumatic cutoff just recently died on me. So using a sheet pan that I got out of the kitchen, I made up new plates. This will be a temp fix because when it's all said and done, I'll have 4 ballasts on each side. I'm going to have to order up some amp extensions and find new spots on each side to hold all of the ballasts.

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Test fitting the lights back into the car was a pain dealing with 2 igniters flopping around lol. I got them in place to see how everything would sit. The new plate on the drivers side hits the CAI just slightly. I'm sure it's going to rub while driving but I'll trim a little off to make a small recess so it doesn't interfere with the CAI. The passenger side had plenty of room.

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Not bad for a half a days work. I need to clean the bezels up a little and try to repair them. The passenger bezel has a nice little wart on it where the fog light is. At some point in it's life it was way out of adjustment and just burned the shit out of it. The drivers has just a small blemish that I can clean up with some sand paper.

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I need to go out and get some bleach so I can dechrome the bezels, try and remove and body work the wart on the passenger side, and then paint them up. I'm hoping that when I'm ready for the actual retrofit, all wiring, painting, and whatever else that deals with the HIDs will be done and all I would have to do is swap projectors out, put new sealant in, and new lenses. Tomorrow I'll get out there and finish soldering the wiring harness up and get the car back to where it's drivable again. I'm thinking of going ahead and wire the 3rd set of ballasts in and running some H1 hids pnp style lol. It would be the final set for the headlights so idk.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Like what you are doing, keep it up! I also plan on doing the morimoto swap too so I'm keeping an eye on your progress!
Thanks! While I like Morimoto, I'll end up only using projectors and bulbs from them. The ballasts I have I got dirt cheap and they have been holding up very well and I've had no issues at all from them. If I can save here and there then it's just extra that I could spend elsewhere lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Well, a lot has happened since the last update. As of Saturday, I officially own the Mazda. We bought it used for 4k 4 years ago on a 5 year loan from the bank and now it's mine:grin2:.!!!! Here is how she stands as of today!!

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The lights didn't turn out anywhere near how I wanted and had to strip the paint back off. Pressed for time I tossed them back together and put them back on the car. I still have to wet sand the hell out of the lenses to get them clear again but it's been fairly wet off and on here in FL so little work has been done as far as lighting goes.

Saturday, I woke up like any normal Saturday and went to the store 2 blocks away to get the wife and I some energy drinks to start the day. The car drove fine on the way there but came back in limp mode. :surprise: Thinking WTF, I got the scanner out and ran the codes. P2110 throttle actuator forced limited rpm and p2112 throttle body actuator stuck closed. I disconnected the intake from the body and tried to see what was going on. It was hard to move the butterfly so I knew what was going on. Instead of getting home with the energy drinks and changing the oil in the cars, I was off to hunt down a throttle body smh. While I was out at the yard I'd figure I'd pick up some things that were bothering me about my car. The steering wheel has a lot of peeling on the 12 o clock spot. It's been like that since we picked it up as well as a nasty tear in the driver's seat. I'm also missing both kick panels. I have them somewhere but I believe the driver's wasn't fitting right and kept falling off down by my feet so I set it somewhere. To many projects going on lol.

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I had to drive my wife's 2000 VW Bug out to the yard, getting seats was not going to happen. Right before I was leaving the yard however, I found a set of seats that looked great and had to have them but there was no way that I could get them home on Saturday. It was a good trip regardless. I ended up scoring the throttle body, steering wheel, the cable that runs down the driver's door for the inside door lever, and both kick panels!!! By the time I was leaving the yard, there was only about an hour left before they closed so my chances for getting the seats on Sunday were good. I got home and cleaned the junk yard TB with an entire can of cleaner inside and out and allowed it to dry overnight. Tossed it on the car which took a whole 5 mins. and took it out for a drive. The thing works great. The idle vibrations have simmered due to the TB change. I thought the vibrations were due to the AWR Racing mounts on the car. It still vibrates but no where near as bad. Go fig:smile2: .

Since the Mazda was back up and running and it was only 8 am, I headed out to the yard to be one of the 1st in to grab the seats before someone else did. No sooner did I get both out and start walking to the front, someone was there digging in the 6s and saw the seats lol. Getting them in the car to get home wasn't bad at all. I laid the 1st one on its back carefully in the back seat. I then laid the passenger side face down on top of the 1st one. They fit in the back seat with no issues and it was back to the house. I got them home and was taking the newly acquired seats out of the car and that's when all hell broke loose. I ripped the headrest of my current drivers seat getting the passenger seat out:surprise:. No biggie because I was about to pull it's replacement from the car. When I went to pull it out, that's when I noticed that on the ride home, the mounting bracket punctured the rear bench :crying:. That thing had no issues other than 2 kids sit back there lol. Now I'm going to have to find a new back seat somewhere smh.

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For now I just need to find out how to repair the back seat just so my son doesn't tear it up more than it already is until I can find a replacement. Now that the car is paid for, the real modifications can start and the interior is eventually all coming out for sound deadening and painting. I've got a corner of parts in the laundry room ready to go in now but just need to find the time. I will be helping my wife do her bug up as well so the plan is 1 weekend we work on her bug and the next I work on the Mazda. It's only fair that her car gets some love too lol.

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Some major plans are already in the works for the car. I still need a lot of parts and components for everything to be done right as well as the time for me to fab some things for it. A lot of wiring will be happening very soon so I'm looking forward to that. I think I have plenty to get me started and beings that they are sitting in front of the deep freezer, I kinda need to take care of those 1st lol.
 

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I love junkyard days! Nice update, I like reading the reasons why and how things happened in a update too. Bummer about the rear seats though. I'm sure you'll get her back in shape in no time!
 

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Bummer on the rear seat. I had someone repair a tear on a leather seat by gluing a small patch behind the tear to avoid it spreading. Perhaps your old seats could be the donor for the tear patch? Congrats on paying it off. It is such a great feeling to clear a car payment from the budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'll look into the leather patch idea. Just kinda freaked out after it had happened. I didn't lay the back seat down due to exposed speaker terminals on the back of the sub box plus their wiring. Never did I think that I could rip something getting the seats home.

I'll probably use the driver's headrest as the patch material lol. I'll be using the seats that come out of the car as shop chairs. No headrest needed lol.
 
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