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Discussion Starter #1
Well, 2 days ago I got the AEM intake on, easy......quick......and effective!

Today, well.......we did the Snow Performance Water/Meth injection and I am pushing 50/50 meth. WOW! Its unreal! Add 30 or so HP to this car and things begin to get a bit more....well...... interesting. This thing is getting down-right violent!

I am running the pump at the full 150 PSI, activating at 6PSI and full on at 15PSI.

All I can say, is if your in the Pittsburgh area, and your on the fence about doing this mod......come on over some time and we can take a ride! Its like superman just ripped his street clothes off and is now taking to the air! Thru the gears it pulls so hard its nuts. On a hard start with TC off I had it spinning all 4 (But after that four gear shot I smelled clutch burning.....) and it was slamming thru gears at a scary and alarming rate. The 0-80 MPH times are drastically faster. I will try to quantify the change with our G-tech accelerometer once I get time. Its still busy time in the shop, so I will wait until the end of October to get to that.

Crazy. Fun. Exciting. Adrenaline. Muscle. Power. I cant really describe it, you would have feel it!

I took pictures of the install, the bracket I made for the coolant bottle, removing the intercooler and allum intake tube going to the T-body, the MAP line, the pump and bottle positions....everything.

The stock Intercooler is a joke, mounted flat on the engine with no place for air to really go... now it does not matter! When I get the boost going, the water/meth starts flowing!

From wwwSnowPerformance.net

The Boost Cooler® is Snow Performance’s latest generation water/methanol injection system. The primary function of water/methanol injection is to provide “chemical intercooling”.

In gasoline engines, as with any intercooler, this suppresses detonation so more power producing boost and timing can be utilized. Water, with its high latent heat of vaporization cools the intake charge and combustion. Methanol cools the charge and combustion but also acts like an extremely high octane fuel (some researchers claim as high as 120 octane) as well as adding more oxygen to combustion.

A brief History:
Water injection was evaluated scientifically in the 1930’s by H. Ricardo who demonstrated that one can basically double the power output of an engine using water/methanol. The first widespread use was during WWII on supercharged and turbocharged aircraft. In 1942, the German Luftwaffe increased the horsepower of the Focke-Wulf 190D-9 fighter aircraft from 1776HP to 2240HP using 50/50% water/methanol injection. The allies soon followed by fitting the P51 Mustang and other high performance aircraft with water/methanol injection. Following the war, the turboprop aircraft industry used water/methanol injection and called it the “automatic power reserve system (APR)” for use in hot or high altitude take off. It surfaced again in the 60’s when GM used a system on the OEM turbo Corvair. It was used effectively in Formula 1 before being banned for adding too much power.

The latest competitive use is in World Rally Racing (WRC) where virtually all teams use it in some form and in diesel truck/tractor pulling competition. It is important to note that in the fall of 2004, the long standing world record in the quarter mile for diesels was broken twice (now 7.98 sec) by two different vehicles; both using the Boost Cooler® water/methanol injection system by Snow Performance.
 

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Very interesting...

I'd like to see numbers of course lol
 

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looking forward to some pics and dyno
 

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Im in the Pittsburgh area. Id be interested to see your setup. Im guess you have a shop somewhere?

Let me know.

Bob
 

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looks good, i got to read more about it!!
 

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Nice!! Ive always been interested in water/meth inj, but never really went through with it because I wasnt sure if there was any side effects. Is there any negative effects that this could possibly produce? Maybe dirty spark plugs?
 

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I don't know much.... But a simple rule of thumb... If it isn't mass market or common place.. there is usually a reason... If you could simply double horse power.. or at least get a huge boost.. by doing a "simple" mod... Then it would be common place....

For example... CAI.. Proven to produce results.. so they are common... Turbos.. Superchargers... Proven to produce results... So they come stock on many vehicles...

Nitrous / Nos - They are proven to produce results... however it is dangerous... so much so that you never see it come stock on a vehicle...

My guess is this custom setup he has going has some side effects... or causes problems down the road which is why its not seen stock on vehicles or as a common bolt on mod in stores and mags....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
insatiable desire to buy windshield washer fluid by the case!

Danger.....it is commonly used on over the road trucks that run for hundreds of thousands of miles, lowers EGTs big time, and you remember the turbo glowing red.....gone.

If you use a back yard water meth injection you could easily hydraulic the engine and blow the whole dang thing.... The snow kit is a digital box fully adjustable. I have mine at 150 PSI at the pump, flow begins at 7 PSI of boost and reaches full 150 PSI at 15 PSI of boost.

When I get time, I will show pictures.

I have a small shop in Baden PA, but today I am at the airport leaving for 6 weeks on a business trip to DFW Texas.

Larry......
 

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with no tuning available, water/meth injection is very dangerous. even when tuning becomes available, there are still chances of a problem arising. injectors tend to leak over time, and when those extra water droplets enter the intake stream, well, it would be the same as submerging your intake.

im not saying this will happen, but it can happen. water/meth is a way to add much more power, but also a way to destroy your engine. it is not for everyone. if u want to play with this system, i suggest you go grab yourself a turbo'd dsm and try it out.
 

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Im in the Pittsburgh area. Id be interested to see your setup. Im guess you have a shop somewhere?

Let me know.

Bob
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Ditto...

You know, I'm only a few miles away, I'll definitely need to check this out.
 

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So this injects directly into the intake stream? i have seen alot of cars using something simmilar but spraying it ONTO the IC but not actually in the intake stream.

What did the full set up cost you and what Part numbers did you utilize?
 

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with no tuning available, water/meth injection is very dangerous. even when tuning becomes available, there are still chances of a problem arising. injectors tend to leak over time, and when those extra water droplets enter the intake stream, well, it would be the same as submerging your intake.

im not saying this will happen, but it can happen. water/meth is a way to add much more power, but also a way to destroy your engine. it is not for everyone. if u want to play with this system, i suggest you go grab yourself a turbo'd dsm and try it out.
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I agree, it is not a good idea to use water/meth injection unless you can control the AFR as well.
 

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looks good, i got to read more about it!!
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Easy there bud. You are too damn fast already!! :nono: :D
 

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Water/Meth injection is pretty common these days on older cars that aren't concerned about warranty issues. The subie guys use em, evo guys, dsm guys. It doesn't have the same drawbacks as nitrous so i'd bet you'll see more w/m injection setups than NOS setups lately. The snow performance system uses boost dependent injection and they have a system that is MAF controlled as well.

Just curious, how quickly do you have to refill the full bottle?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Right now the delivery is not tuned. I got the snow stage 2 kit (at cost, I am a dealer) and I did not need any extra parts. I even took pics of the installation, but the pics are home in PA, I just got into DFW Texas this evening for a 6 week job at a nuclear plant here. When I get home I can add pictures.... sorry.

The water/meth usage is slight under normal driving because I have the control box set to not operate the pump until 7 PSI of boost, but if you hammer through the gears she sucks down the water at an alarming rate. I still need to back off the pump pressure, this will decrease the delivery rate. As it stands, these cars are tuned pig-rich, so the alcohol is not a worry for me. I can use a solid 1/2" out of the bottle in just two 1/4 mile runs (1st through 4th gear wide open throttle). I drove 50 miles to dinner last night and drove very average, I barely used any. The idea is that a 2 qt bottle should last a tank of gas driving normal. I am not running Snow boost juice, I am using regular blue windshield washer fluid (50/50 mix from the bottle).

In about 6 months there is going to be a complete stage 3 similar to what you see if you look at the diesel section. That will have a dsah mounted controler with LED display and adjustments, just like the diesels have.

The power is VERY noticable. The car was entertaining before, now its getting closer to what I want.....violent!

My plan is to find 350-400 RWHP in this car for next spring. I plan on doing the turbo back exhaust, front mounted intercooler, and upgraded turbo before spring. Then I will play at Beaver Run (race track) against my pals in thier M3 BMW cars.

I typed out the install, it was very straight forward.......I did have to fabricate the bracket for the bottle, but anyone that lives local can schedule and evening at the shop with me to get help with metal work. I have a fab shop set up, its not a big deal for me to do this kind of work.

Instructions:

Begin with the SNOW PERFORMANCE water/meth injection kit by opening the box, getting familiar with the parts of the kit and instructions. Pay particular attention to the addendums to the instructions. On the MazdaSPEED6 car, your only real option is to install the water/meth injection where the factory air box once was…… yes, this is to say that you will do a intake system prior to the injection.

Plan yourself about 5-6 hours for this install. The excessive time is nothing to do with difficulty, this is going to be very easy….. but you need to do some fabricating! This means you need to have some basic welding ability to manufacture a bracket to hold the water/meth 2-QT bottle. To keep things simple, I went and found a simpl 1”x1” angle and cut it to the exact L of the bottles W. I went to the grinder and rounded all corners and wire brushed every thing to assure a nice looking part that would not prove to be dangerous to any one working on the car later!

I made a upright out of a similar material, I started with this piece being 5” long, but ended up going to 4.75” long. The ¼” we cut off allowed us to gain a bit of clearance on the intake tube (its still tight!) and also if I were doing it again I would have tried to get the bottom hole on the bottle about 0.5” to the rear of the car to go on the OEM bolt/nut that is there! As it is on mine, the upright is setting on a simple piece of 1/8” plate steel I cut and drilled to fit on the AEM intake system’s rubber mounted bolt/nut. This alone actually is a very effective mount, and does not allow for excessive movement.

I also chose to mount the pump on the inner fender directly under the AEM intake tube. This was as simple as getting the 90 degree fittings and installing them to the pump, placing the pump on the flat inner fender, and drilling/screwing the pump down on this flat inner fender section. This is a great fit! The pump disappears under the intake, and the water/meth bottle with the nice bracket painted gunmetal grey …..(Hey, its what I had at the time!)… pretty much melt away into the car and look natural!

Now its time to get a bit closer with your car! Start by taking the plastic cover off of the Inter-Cooler. This is done by taking the 2 bolts off of the front corners. The rear is held on by a spring clip, simply ease the cover back towards the firewall about a half inch and the clip slides off the tab.

Now take a look at the intercooler, notice the gold coated bolts holding it down, you will see two along the front, and one on the back (passenger side of the back) and nothing more aside from the hose back by the firewall that comes from the turbo, and the alum intake pipe going down to the throttle body in the front. Start by looking at the alum intake tube at the front of the inter cooler, remove the black pastic part from the intake tube and reinstall the 2 bolts. Remove the hose from the turbo by loosening the bolt on the hose at the inter-cooler end and easing the rubber hose off, then remove the hose from between the throttle body and the Intercooler intake pipe by loosening the clamps on that short rubber hose between the two parts there.

Now take hold of the intercooler and ease the rear of it up a few inches until your free of that rubber hose, and rock it a bit to slide the aluminum intake (Shaped like a “U” almost) up and out.

Set the intercooler on a surface like a towel or similar, and place it upside down. Remove the four 10 mm bolts holding the aluminum intake on the Intercooler. This is what we need to do so that we can safely drill and tap for our injection nozzle. Notice that there is a raised flat boss at the throttle body end of the intake tube. This is where we will center-punch the intake (In the center of the raised/round boss) and begin drilling with a small drill bit (1/8”) and work our way up in 4 steps to a 21/64” drill bit. Once we get that done, take the included 1/8”-27 NPT tap and use a socket that will grab it, and after applying anti-seize or oil to the threads, run it in slow and steady about 2/3 of the way. Do not over run the tap! If you run the tap all the way in, you will ruin the intake! The nozzle we want to install will not get tight, it will thread right through the intake and fall in the intake without ever getting tight! Once this is drilled and tapped, clean all anti-seize and install the smallest nozzle in the kit (verified by color on the chart included in the Snow Performance kit). Install the nozzle as well as the 90 degree hose fitting.

Reinstall the intake to the intercooler, and reinstall the intercooler. Reinstall the rubber hoses.

We are almost finished! Time to get boost pressure from our intake manifold. You see coming off of the number 3 intake runner there is a nice steel 90 degree elbow that has a rubber hose coming off of it. We will cut this hose and use the supplied plastic “T” to rejoin the hose. Now the hardest part of the entire job, getting the TINY diameter hose that Snow gives you to go onto the plastic “T” that you just put in! The hose diameter is matched to the nipple on the Snow Performance control box….and this will make your fingers sore in the next 10 min! You can do it, I did!

Now we simply run this hose over to the front of the fuse box where we will Zip-Tie the control box to the OEM wire harness there, and slide the hose onto the boost reference nipple. Easy. Next take your ground wire from the Snow Performance pump and ground it on any bolt within reach. Take the red wire from the Snow Performance pump and connect it with a simple butt-connector to the green wire out of the control box. Take the red wire out of the control box and run it to a power supply (Keyed is recommended, but I went with a always on source.) Run the ground from the Snow Performance box to any bolt in steel…you have plenty of choices!

Before you start the car, adjust the control box to go live at 6 or 7 PSI of boost by turning the pot switch. Now make the fully on pressure occur at 15 PSI of boost. This will allow you to introduce the water at about 7 psi with a nice low flow, and ramp in the flow over the next 8 or 9 PSI of boost to the full flow. Since we are starting out with a small engine that has low power to begin with, we may be forced to back the pump pressure off a few turns to stop from putting the fire out! I am getting away with the full 150 PSI pump pressure for now, but I have felt a couple hard pulls where the power came and went……I was almost over watering the engine. I will back it off a bit as I play with the controller and see what I can get away with, and what I can not.

Take your car out for a ride. Your going to be amazed at how much harder and faster this thing pulls! Now the car is starting to really run! Take your time on the bracket, make it nice, paint it, smooth the edges, and don’t paint it some crazy color! The idea here is to blend into the car and disappear!

With this simple install, you just added about 30-40 RWHP to your car without adding any major components, or spending more than a few hundred bucks. We at Discount Power Parts have been running and playing with water/meth injection systems for 3 years on our competition sled-pull trucks and had great success with absolutely no failures from the system. I expect to run this MazdaSPEED 6 thru its paces and not experience any trouble whats-so-ever. I do expect lower EGT’s, more available power, and longer engine and turbo life!

Larry....
 

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Larry, thanks for the info. I was hoping to get that type of mileage. 1 bottle per tank of gas at normal driving is a-ok with me.

theoretically the gains will just keep coming from this mod as you do full turbo back exhaust, more boost, advanced timing , and leaner AFR. good luck with your 400whp goal. can't wait to see it.
 

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With this simple install, you just added about 30-40 RWHP to your car without adding any major components, or spending more than a few hundred bucks. We at Discount Power Parts have been running and playing with water/meth injection systems for 3 years on our competition sled-pull trucks and had great success with absolutely no failures from the system. I expect to run this MazdaSPEED 6 thru its paces and not experience any trouble whats-so-ever. I do expect lower EGT’s, more available power, and longer engine and turbo life!

Larry....
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I agree that this is very good way to wring extra horses out of the engine, but until some one comes out with a method to tune the AFR on the MS6 this is a risky project. What the injection does it sprays a very fine mist of water/methanol to futher cool the air before it hits the cyclinders to mix with the fuel. So, you are increasing the density of the air in the cyclinders with out the ECU taking that into account and adjusting the fuel ratio appropriately, in otherwords leaning out the mix.

I know that they all turbo cars come from the factory running rich, so leaning it out might not be a bad idea. But its not something I would want to take a chance on without a way to tune the fuel flow.
 

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great writeup Larry!

:thumbup:
 
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