Mazda 6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All. I had a small mishap with my 2018 GT last week. There were a couple inches of snow on my employer's lot and I ended up sliding into the curb at about 10 MPH with the front driver side wheel while making a right from the main road. The steering wheel now feels off and there is a very slight vibration at around 55 MPH coming from that wheel. For the most part, I just hear a buzzing noise from that wheel at that speed. I noticed I hear it most while wheel is turning at highway speed.

I am taking the car in to an alignment shop tomorrow to see the damage. I think maybe I bent a tie rod. They will charge me $30 to diagnose it, which seems pretty reasonable and they have good reviews. Can I get a sense of what a reasonable estimate would be if they have to replace say a tie rod? I have done DIY stuff on cars so I may do it myself if they are being unreasonable or shop it around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Its unlikely you damaged any suspension components. My bet is just a bent wheel. Go to a tire shop first.
But I slid the side of the rim into the curb, not on top of it. I've bent a rim before (on other cars) and this feels different. Steering is off.. the wheel doesn't return to the center when I turn, for example.
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
But I slid the side of the rim into the curb, not on top of it. I've bent a rim before (on other cars) and this feels different. Steering is off.. the wheel doesn't return to the center when I turn, for example.
That could still cause a bent rim, easy. If there was something wrong with the suspension by this point it's unlikely you would be able to drive it at all.

The steering not returning to centre is alignment related. So i'm guessing just a bent rim, slight alignment change and should be good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That could still cause a bent rim, easy. If there was something wrong with the suspension by this point it's unlikely you would be able to drive it at all.

The steering not returning to centre is alignment related. So i'm guessing just a bent rim, slight alignment change and should be good to go.
Thanks! I know a place that can straighten the rim - I've used them before with excellent results. I think I'll let the alignment place check it out anyways tomorrow and if they don't see any suspension damage, I'll get the wheel straightened first and then go back to have them fix the alignment.
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
Thanks! I know a place that can straighten the rim - I've used them before with excellent results. I think I'll let the alignment place check it out anyways tomorrow and if they don't see any suspension damage, I'll get the wheel straightened first and then go back to have them fix the alignment.
Sounds like a good plan. Start with the wheel and go from there. Keep us posted on the end result, if you can.

And be very careful in the snow!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like a good plan. Start with the wheel and go from there. Keep us posted on the end result, if you can.

And be very careful in the snow!!
Will do! Unfortunately, I was rushing and turned into the lot too fast before I realized they didn't plow yet. I had a 2016 Ford Fusion Titanium before this (lease) and I think it did better on snow. Have to be more careful :mad:
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
Will do! Unfortunately, I was rushing and turned into the lot too fast before I realized they didn't plow yet. I had a 2016 Ford Fusion Titanium before this (lease) and I think it did better on snow. Have to be more careful :mad:
That all depends on the tires. The ford fusion (amongst other Ford vehicles) uses the same chassis as your Mazda 6 along with the Mazda 4 cylinder and V6's. The ecoboost engines are a Mazda block which Ford simply turbocharged themselves. Other than sheetmetal and suspension tuning, they are identical underneath. You might actually notice that they feel similar.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
That all depends on the tires. The ford fusion (amongst other Ford vehicles) uses the same chassis as your Mazda 6 along with the Mazda 4 cylinder and V6's. The ecoboost engines are a Mazda block which Ford simply turbocharged themselves. Other than sheetmetal and suspension tuning, they are identical underneath. You might actually notice that they feel similar.
That's very interesting! I didn't know that! I thought Mazda and Ford had separated some time ago. I find the Mazda transmission to be much more responsive than the Fusion, but it is true that for the most part they do drive the same. On the Fusion, I had the 2.0L turbo engine and I have the 2.5L turbo on the Mazda. I decided some time ago that I could not drive a 4 cyl engine car unless it has turbo. It's just too painfully slow, otherwise. Was happy to see Mazda finally added it to the 6.
 
Joined
·
484 Posts
That's very interesting! I didn't know that! I thought Mazda and Ford had separated some time ago. I find the Mazda transmission to be much more responsive than the Fusion, but it is true that for the most part they do drive the same. On the Fusion, I had the 2.0L turbo engine and I have the 2.5L turbo on the Mazda. I decided some time ago that I could not drive a 4 cyl engine car unless it has turbo. It's just too painfully slow, otherwise. Was happy to see Mazda finally added it to the 6.
True, well, Mazda's newest transmission with the clutch packs and improved transmission mapping has made a huge difference. with the previous generation fusion the suspension was too underdamped... looks like they learned the hard way that a sporty suspension doesn't need to punish you during your daily commute.

If I want extra power, I would just go for a naturally aspirated v6 or inline 6 if possible. I am actually curious to test drive the 2.5 turbo, but I was never a fan of the way turbo engines feel especially when tipping into the throttle at low rpm. I can't stand the lag.

Yes my naturally aspirated 2.5 is obviously slower, but the throttle response is so sharp, it feel distinctly more responsive and punchy below 2000RPM, then say a Honda accord 2.0T which I test drove a while back. It's a very fast car once you build boost, but the more linear response of a naturally aspirated engine - even a considerably less powerful one is always very satisfying for me. I practically never find myself feeling like I want more power than what it currently offers, and then there is potential for more by getting an ECU tune..
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
A very bent rim would shake wildly as it would be bent on one side. If the car is tracking differently (steering wheel turned) it is more likely a bent control arm and/or tie rod and also likely rim to a small degree.
I just went through this on a Kia Soul.
I guess you'll find out soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Just got back from the shop. They diagnosed a bad left hub and bearing. They wanted around $680 to repair ($450 parts, $100 labor, $65 front alignment, tax). I just paid the $30 diagnostic fee for now because I don't know if I am getting ripped off or not. I spoke to the mechanic and it sounds like his diagnosis is correct. It makes sense that this is the noise I am hearing.

edit:
Autozone shows
1) https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-front/duralast-wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-dl590493/307526_0_22589
2) https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-front/moog-wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-513347/613455_0_22589

And there is a 20% coupon on their site.

This seems simple enough to replace myself, right? I have done DIY stuff before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
793 Posts
Just got back from the shop. They diagnosed a bad left hub and bearing. They wanted around $680 to repair ($450 parts, $100 labor, $65 front alignment, tax). I just paid the $30 diagnostic fee for now because I don't know if I am getting ripped off or not. I spoke to the mechanic and it sounds like his diagnosis is correct. It makes sense that this is the noise I am hearing.
Sorry to hear this. That would have been one of my last guesses but it makes sense in regards to what you're feeling.

Knowing what it is it wouldn't hurt to call around and see if someone would do it for less. Tough part is it seems the expensive part of this repair is the parts, not the labor.

Check with the dealer to see if the hub is the same part # for all Gen 3 6's (2013-present) You might just find one in a junk yard for a lot less.

Best of luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Sorry to hear this. That would have been one of my last guesses but it makes sense in regards to what you're feeling.

Knowing what it is it wouldn't hurt to call around and see if someone would do it for less. Tough part is it seems the expensive part of this repair is the parts, not the labor.

Check with the dealer to see if the hub is the same part # for all Gen 3 6's (2013-present) You might just find one in a junk yard for a lot less.

Best of luck.
Looks like its the same part: https://www.realmazdaparts.com/oem-parts/mazda-front-hub-and-bearing-kd353304xf?c=Zz1mcm9udC1zdXNwZW5zaW9uJnM9c3VzcGVuc2lvbi1jb21wb25lbnRzJmw9MiZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9bWF6ZGEmbz02Jnk9MjAxOCZ0PWdyYW5kLXRvdXJpbmcmZT0yLTVsLWw0LWdhcw==
 

·
Rally Racer
Joined
·
2,817 Posts
Just got back from the shop. They diagnosed a bad left hub and bearing. They wanted around $680 to repair ($450 parts, $100 labor, $65 front alignment, tax). I just paid the $30 diagnostic fee for now because I don't know if I am getting ripped off or not. I spoke to the mechanic and it sounds like his diagnosis is correct. It makes sense that this is the noise I am hearing.

edit:
Autozone shows
1) https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-front/duralast-wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-dl590493/307526_0_22589
2) https://www.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-front/moog-wheel-bearing-hub-assembly-513347/613455_0_22589

And there is a 20% coupon on their site.

This seems simple enough to replace myself, right? I have done DIY stuff before.
You can see the parts price (less than half your quote) and that makes sense for the noise but I am not sold on why it changed how the car tracks, unless the bends can be adjusted out with an alignment.
Sounds like you are considering doing it yourself and taking it in for an alignment after? It looks like a bolt on assembly rather than press fit. My guess is the axle nut will be the hardest part (unless the axle splines protest).
I say buy the part, a replacement axle nut, and some anti-seize for the axle splines and give it a shot.
Worst case you can't do it and you put it back together and drive it in with the replacement parts in hand to be done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
You can seee the parts price (less than half your quote) and that makes sense for the noise but I am not sold on why it changed how the car tracks, unless the bends can be adjusted out with an alignment.
Have you considered doing it yourself and taking it in for an alignment after?
I am considering doing it myself. It doesn't look too bad. I'd have to borrow a wheel hub puller. It looks like the Mazda part just replaces the gear while the autozone part replaces the entire assembly. The autozone duralast is the cheapest option. What do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,120 Posts
Pay attention to the axle nut torque specs and sequence. On many vehicles it's absolutely essential that it is done correctly or you will be buying another bearing and doing the job over again in 20,000 miles or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Pay attention to the axle nut torque specs and sequence. On many vehicles it's absolutely essential that it is done correctly or you will be buying another bearing and doing the job over again in 20,000 miles or so.
I called this shop based on reviews I found online and talked to one of the guys there for a good 5 minutes. He seemed pretty knowledgeable and even wanted to know why I thought I needed this done on such a new car. He said they will want to do their own diagnosis just to be sure but there is not even a charge for that. He also estimated around $300 generally, but it depends on whether they replace the entire assembly (less labor) or have to pop out the gear (more labor). I told him I see you can buy the full assembly even on Autozone for this car.

If I can get it done for around $300 at a shop, I'd rather they do it. How do the shops know the torque specs on these things? I always get nervous going to a shop for work because even when you talk to them to see if they know anything, there's just no way to know ahead of time if they will the job correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,120 Posts
It's in the shop manual. On these cars it's a three-step procedure -- tighten to 100ft/lb, loosen the nut 180 degrees then re-tighten to 175ft/lb. I believe that nut is also "must-replace" (it is on most vehicles and any time you have a procedure like this it's usually a must-replace fastener -- ditto any time you have a "tighten to X ft/lbs + Y degrees" that's a yield fastener and has to be replaced when loosened.)

On most front-drive VWs, for example, the procedure for the 12-point nut is tighten to 200N-M (~150ft/lb), loosen 180 degrees, rotate the wheel 180 degrees (roll the car), torque to 50N-M and then 60 degrees further. That last 60 degrees, incidentally, is REALLY tight.

The reason for the multi-step procedure is that the first time around makes sure the bearing and race are seated correctly. If done wrong what usually winds up happening is that the bearing fails on short mileage and you get to do the job over again to replace it because the bolt serves as the clamping force on the bearing.

In the old days you had tapered roller bearings in there with a castle nut and cotter on the end. Modern cars use sealed bearings and the two halves are held together by that nut, thus the requirement to do it correctly or you'll get to buy a new one and take it apart again.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top