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Hi fellow car audio enthusiasts. :drive: I've decided that it's finally time for me to take the leap and to run new speaker wires to my front door speakers, because I feel like the tiny stock wiring is limiting the potential of my aftermarket component speakers.
I've got a bit of experience working on my mazda6 from running power wire to my trunk, replacing the head unit, replacing the door speakers, and by splicing and soldering into the wires under the passenger seat where the factory bose amp used to be. So I feel like running new speaker wire into my doors is something that should be within my reach, but I just don't feel like I have enough knowledge about the process yet to take the leap, so hopefully thats where some of you can help me out. :D

I've searched high and dry through the forums for past topics about this, and did find a few matches but there are still questions in my mind as to what I need to do. Please correct me wherever I'm wrong.

1) Can I run both sides (the left and the right) of the speaker cable from the the amp in my trunk on one side of the car (the pass. side) or does the left speaker cable need to be on the drivers side and the right speaker cable on the pass side? If I do run both cables on the pass. side, then how would I go about getting the left cable over to the drivers side? I plan on removing my glove box so that I can see what I'm doing on the pass. side, but how will I be able to see to get the cable over to the drivers side?

2) Once I've got the speaker wires on their respective sides, would the next step be to look for the rubber grommet that connects the mess of wires from the car body into each door? Then I assume that I would pull the rubber back, revealing the white plastic bulkhead, which I will need to pull out a bit in order to see the empty spaces in the bulkhead that I can feed wire through?

3) Is it typically necessary to cut/drill/dremmel through this white bulkhead in order to get your wire to fit through? I think im going to be using 14 guage. If I went with smaller 16 guage wire instead would that decrase the odds of me having to modify the bulkhead to get the wire through?

4) I've noticed people mentioning that the drivers side is harder than the pass. side. Is this just because the pass. side is easer to see and work around since the glove box can be removed? I've noticed a few people saying that they had to remove their fuse block to do the drivers side? true? Is this so that I can reach in there and pull the left speaker wire over from the pass side to the drivers side, and so that I can reach up there and feed it through the grommet/white bulkhead into the drivers side door?

5) If I do remove the fuse block, do I need to be extra cautious about anything? ie.. if I remove the bolt, nothings going to unexpectedly fall into an unreachable part of the car, etc..?

Roughly how long should I expect this project to take? Is 4-5 hours about right?

Please add any steps that I may have missed, plus any advice or tips that you have. I would REALLY appreciate it. I'm a little nervous about this project and a little reassurance and guidance would help me out a ton. THANKS in advance.
 

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I havn't done this in my 6 yet, but I did it in my old car (00' Grand AM GT)

1) Yes, you can run them both on the passenger side. What I did, was stick the amp in the trunk, ran the front speaker cables to the glovebox (along the pass side) where I mounted my crossovers. The driver side cable was run underneath the dash. I didn't remove anything except the glove box. I just looked under the dash, and found places to thread the cable through. A couple of small black zip ties kept it clean and in place.

2) I havn't looked too much at my 6, but all I did was take the 'grommet' off the door, found where the wires entered the body. It's more like 2 grommet. One on the body, and one on the door, with a rubber sleeve connecting them. The wires are usually packed pretty tight from the factory, so I used a plastic 14cm surgical needle holder (I work at a hospital) to pull the cable through, and then reconnected the grommets to the door and body. A really long pair of needle nose pliers would work too.

3) I'm not sure what you mean. Try getting a picture of it. I went with 16 gauge.

4) I had more trouble with the driver's side only because the power mirror and window controls are there, which means more wires running through that rubber sleeve that you have to fight with. Dunno about the rest, I havn't started on mine yet.

5) ANYTIME you remove ANYTHING from under the hood, you run the risk of dropping something in an unreachable spot. I dropped the power steering fluid cap during a routine check, and spent the next 20 minutes wrestling my jack out of the trunk, liftin the car, crawling underneath, and blindly fishing for the cap through a warm engine bay.
Keep that in mind when you remove anything, and just be careful. A piece of masking tape folded so it's sticky side out, inside your socket will help prevent dropping any bolts.

All in all, it took me about 5-6 hours. But that's because I made the mistake of thinking it would only take an hour, and started doing it on a wintery afternoon. I had to run inside every half hour to warm up my hands because I couldn't feel anything anymore.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks a lot Lebult, I think your suggestions will help out considerably, especially the needle nosed pliars idea to pull the cables through.

Does anyone else have anything to contribute? I'll take all the advice I can get!
 

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make sure u run the speaker wires on the opposite side of the power wire. the power wire can cause noise in the speaker wires.
 

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make sure u run the speaker wires on the opposite side of the power wire. the power wire can cause noise in the speaker wires.
[/b]
You're thinking RCA cables...

You can run power wires and speaker wires right next to each other without any problems or putting extra noise in the system.

I've done this on my 6. It was a PITA. Passenger side is easy, because you can easily get to both holes in the door/body. On the drivers side, once you dremel through the grommet and have you wire in there, the hole from the door into the car is up near the top. THough the exit hole, hole leading into the car, is all the way down at the bottom behind the fuse box. You'll have to temporarily move fuse box and use a coat hanger or something to that effect, to feed the wire down from the top hole to the bottom one behind the fuse box.

PM me if you need some more details. I'll try to help best I can
 

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I am thinking of doing the same thing, but adding new speakers in place of my BOSE. they are only going to be getting about 50 Rms each, would it be needed to replace the factory speaker wire, or is that not enough power to warrant that? (I am also adding an Eclipse amp for them do not worry).



Thanks

P.S. How easy was the install of the aftermarket HU???
 

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Thanks a lot Lebult, I think your suggestions will help out considerably, especially the needle nosed pliars idea to pull the cables through.

Does anyone else have anything to contribute? I'll take all the advice I can get!
[/b]
Here is my install log, hope it helps.
http://forum.mazda6club.com/index.php?show...c=56933&hl=

For a master installer I am sure this is just another day at work. For the uninitiated this part of the install F#CKING SUCKS!!!! :swearin:
After struggling with the conectors and cables in the door for hours I gave up and went in search of an installer with the skills to run the wires through the stock connectors. Several agreed to do it, but once they got into it they said there was no way (too lazy or no skills).
Ieneded up drilling new holes and running the wires through grommets in theses holes. It works, but it is not right. It not only drives me crazy, but it could potentially give me problems done the road. Hopefully I will eventually find someone to make it perfect.
Good Luck
 

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You're thinking RCA cables...

You can run power wires and speaker wires right next to each other without any problems or putting extra noise in the system.

I've done this on my 6. It was a PITA. Passenger side is easy, because you can easily get to both holes in the door/body. On the drivers side, once you dremel through the grommet and have you wire in there, the hole from the door into the car is up near the top. THough the exit hole, hole leading into the car, is all the way down at the bottom behind the fuse box. You'll have to temporarily move fuse box and use a coat hanger or something to that effect, to feed the wire down from the top hole to the bottom one behind the fuse box.

PM me if you need some more details. I'll try to help best I can
[/b]
oic. thanks for the clarification. i was told a while back to run them on separate sides of the car so i always did it. that will save me a lot of work in the future. :thumbup:
 

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Here's my experience with doing this, it's a pain in the ass, but it does give you peace of mind.

Keep in mind that for most situations, this is totally unescesarry, as the 18 guage wire (I think that's how big it is) that is in there really can handle the power most people will be giving their speakers. This really is for the people that are anal retentive about their systems.

I have my speaker wires running up the passenger side of the car to my CDT crossovers behind the passenger kick panel. From there I have two runs of wire running into each door, one 16 guage for the tweeter, and one 14 guage for the woofer (overkill in both situations) I ran two sets because I plan on eliminating the passive crossvers and actively crossing over my speakers, so it was 100% nescesary that I at least run one other set of wires. While I was at it, I figured I'd run two sets and be done with it.


1. Run them together down the same side of the car, it's easier and cleaner in the end. Doesn't matter what they run near, they've got strong enough signal in them to overcome any sort of radiated noise.

2-5. The bulkhead that you speak of is often referred to as a molex connector. It's simply a plastic plug with lots of wires in it. You WILL have to modify this to get any wires through it. They are located on the door side of the rubber boot. It takes a little bit of work with a small flathead screwdriver to disengage the little clips that hold the whole thing into the door. Once you pop it out from the door (into the space between the door and the car body) you can separate the two halves. Then you will want to pull the car side of the plug back through into the footwell of the car to gain the most room to work on it. On the drivers side, you will just have to remove the bolts holding the fuse box so you can get it out of the way and pull it through. There's nothing to worry about with removing the fuse box, it's just one or two bolts. It won't really go anywhere either since there are a slew of wires running into it. It's a good idea to have the battery disconnected while you are messing with it though.

At this point you can inspect the ends of the connectors. You'll notice that there are a lot more open spaces to drill out on the passenger side than on the driver's (obviously because there are more controls on the driver's door) Like I said though, I got two sets of wires into each door, so just pick the ones you want to drill out, and carefully remove the nescesary amount of material. You'll want to be very careful not to nick any of the wires.

Next you just fish the wires through the connectors and reassemble everything. Sounds easy enough right ;)

It's a PITA, but when you're done, you'll never have to worry about it again. Another thing to note, when you are doing this, 16-14 guage wire is adequate for any speaker you're going to put in your door, and thick insulation is a only going to make this process more difficult or even impossible. You want wire with the thinnest jacket possible for this portion of the run.


I'd put aside a LOT of time to getting this accomplished. Like, one day for each door. It might not take you that much time, but planning for more is a good idea, and you DEFENITELY want to take your time. Start with the passenger side so that you can get a feel for what you're doing, then when dealing with the more challenging driver's side door, you'll be more confident.

It's not terribly difficult, just time consuming, and a bit nerve racking.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ryceboi, VAN~MZD~6, cherryspeed, and DaveRulz - Thanks a lot for your input.. great write up Dave. And thanks for the link to your logs cherry, I'm sure I'll be able to pick some things up from reading them.

I was going to tackle this project this weekend and was going to try to do it in just one afternoon/evening, but I think I'll take Dave's advice and do it when I've got days and not just hours to spare, just to be on the safe side. Theres nothing as frustrating as having your car in peices when you really need to be somewhere. :irate:

Any other tips, keep em comin if you've got them! Also, any pics would really help too.
 

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ryceboi, VAN~MZD~6, cherryspeed, and DaveRulz - Thanks a lot for your input.. great write up Dave. And thanks for the link to your logs cherry, I'm sure I'll be able to pick some things up from reading them.

I was going to tackle this project this weekend and was going to try to do it in just one afternoon/evening, but I think I'll take Dave's advice and do it when I've got days and not just hours to spare, just to be on the safe side. Theres nothing as frustrating as having your car in peices when you really need to be somewhere. :irate:

Any other tips, keep em comin if you've got them! Also, any pics would really help too.
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This shouldn't take you days to complete. But I would recommend setting aside a full day off, like a weekend. Maybe get a friend to lend a hand. Make sure you leave enough slack in the trunk that you can mount your amps where you'd like without running short on wire. *personal experience* Didn't order enough ground wire for my amps, so know one seat can be folded to do access the amp. But the other can only be folded halfway down or I'd pull out the ground wire. Easy fix, but if you run a speaker wire too short, you'd be extremely pissed off and might not wanna run it again. Just food for thought.
 

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QUOTE (VAN~MZD~6 @ Sep 8 2006, 05:33 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=784894
This shouldn't take you days to complete. But I would recommend setting aside a full day off, like a weekend. Maybe get a friend to lend a hand. Make sure you leave enough slack in the trunk that you can mount your amps where you'd like without running short on wire. *personal experience* Didn't order enough ground wire for my amps, so know one seat can be folded to do access the amp. But the other can only be folded halfway down or I'd pull out the ground wire. Easy fix, but if you run a speaker wire too short, you'd be extremely pissed off and might not wanna run it again. Just food for thought.[/b]
I just put the finishing touches on running the wires on the driver's side and this was a serious pain. Anyone have any good tips for getting the rubber boot back over the Molex once it's been taken off as I'm realizing I should have done that 1st? I'm not happy for Mazda going this route.
 

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QUOTE (mfenske @ May 25 2009, 07:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1564634
I just put the finishing touches on running the wires on the driver's side and this was a serious pain. Anyone have any good tips for getting the rubber boot back over the Molex once it's been taken off as I'm realizing I should have done that 1st? I'm not happy for Mazda going this route.[/b]
Absolutely. Pull the molex. They disconnect, and it makes your job WAY easier. disconnect that molex and you have tons of space to get that boot over. Then simply snap the molex back in. It's a snap.

You CAN get it back on without the molex disconnected but it takes time. More time than just pulling the molex. Way painful, it sucks to put that boot back on without pulling the molex.

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I'm replying to simply say Dave's got the way (I'm sure everyone has the way, he just wrote it in the most clear and concise way). In particular that one sentence paragraph that ends in "sounds easy, right?". Because it is. As he wrote, I'm just reiterating that getting the wiring through the molex is the hard part, and the only hard part. Everything else just kind of falls into place. Sounds easy after that because it is.

IMO, the passenger side was more difficult than the drivers side. Otherwise, I've got nothing more to add to what Dave wrote. (Maybe revise that "16-14" part to say "16-18". But that's not something wise to discuss in this thread.)

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If you've ever done a door before, this one should only take an hour or less per door. If you've never done a door before, Lucky you! This car is one of the more painful ones. I used no power tools, only needle nose pliers and a screw driver (and lots of electrical tape :)). It'll take you somewhat more time if you've never done one before. But if you get an early start and haven't finished by noon, stop. Take a step back and reevaluate the process. You are doing something "the hard way" and need to evaluate strategy. An hour of planning at this point might save hours of hair pulling (and metal drilling) later.
 

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QUOTE (Whiterabbit @ May 26 2009, 01:17 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=1564682
Absolutely. Pull the molex. They disconnect, and it makes your job WAY easier. disconnect that molex and you have tons of space to get that boot over. Then simply snap the molex back in. It's a snap.

You CAN get it back on without the molex disconnected but it takes time. More time than just pulling the molex. Way painful, it sucks to put that boot back on without pulling the molex.

----------------------

I'm replying to simply say Dave's got the way (I'm sure everyone has the way, he just wrote it in the most clear and concise way). In particular that one sentence paragraph that ends in "sounds easy, right?". Because it is. As he wrote, I'm just reiterating that getting the wiring through the molex is the hard part, and the only hard part. Everything else just kind of falls into place. Sounds easy after that because it is.

IMO, the passenger side was more difficult than the drivers side. Otherwise, I've got nothing more to add to what Dave wrote. (Maybe revise that "16-14" part to say "16-18". But that's not something wise to discuss in this thread.)

-----------------------

If you've ever done a door before, this one should only take an hour or less per door. If you've never done a door before, Lucky you! This car is one of the more painful ones. I used no power tools, only needle nose pliers and a screw driver (and lots of electrical tape :)). It'll take you somewhat more time if you've never done one before. But if you get an early start and haven't finished by noon, stop. Take a step back and reevaluate the process. You are doing something "the hard way" and need to evaluate strategy. An hour of planning at this point might save hours of hair pulling (and metal drilling) later.[/b]
Hi

How do you disconnest the molex? I can unsnap the blue retainer and slide it back 20-30 degrees....then what?

Tha
 

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Bump for clarification.

I can get the drivers side Molex loose from the chassis to where I see the blue slide lock piece, but it doesn't pull up out of the chassis to see what I'm doing with it. On the inside of the car I can't even get to these parts. I know the Speed has a few more boxes down there, but is this actually possible? Anyone done this on a Speed through the Molex?

I can understand why they drilled new holes on Cherry's car.

Can someone give a little more detail on how far the molex should come out of the chassis into the door hinge area and how much do I have to disconnect besides the fuse box to access it inside the car?
 

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Alright, Speed6 is different that regular 6 I guess. You don't have to mess with the fus box at all because it is well below the stuff you are dealing with. There are some big plugs above the fuse box that will be in your way. To pull the molex you first need to undo a few clips of the weathering strip on the door. Pull down to stretch the hole open and then out to get it off the lower piece of the clip. They are shaped like a "T" and the rubber is soft so you don't have to stretch too hard to get a few clips undone. Next you need to reach in the door and find the clips on the sides of the plastic plug that hold the wire guid to the front edge of the door. Pop that out and it makes the loom easier to work with. Next up is the Molex to chassis clips. There are 4 of them. Two on the top about 11:00 and 1:00 and two on the bottom at 5 and 7. Easiest way to do it was to pull on the whole loom just enough to get the boot back from the chassis. You can then stick a thin flat screwdriver in and push the clips down and the molex will start to pull back from the body. The 1:00 one is the hardest to me, but I found it easier to pull the bottom loose first and then the top. Once you have it loose from the body, pull it out. Really, pull it out until the entire plug is out and the wires for the inner section are there. Find the clips on the blue piece and push them to unlock and rotate it around until it pushes the inner plug out and clips into place. Slip it under the weather stripping and find out there is no room to run wires. Not sure what I'm going to do at this point.

Here's some pics.
The clips on the door piece


Where the piece mounts to the door and the weatherstipping mount


Blue clip fully rotated


Inner section hanging out of chassis


No room to fish wires. Maybe one set, but not two.


Just a note that you will have to run flat speaker wire through there if you do it. There are a few side by side holes not used so I"m gonna try to find wire I can get through that way.

Here are the open slots, but they are much smaller than they appear in the pic
 

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I ordered the standard speaker wire from them in 16 gauge. Did you have any problems pulling any of the pins or receptacles to relocate them? I might try that once my wire comes in to make it easier to go through there.
 

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No, I did not have any issues once I figured out how to do it. Just make sure you do it correctly on both sides. Allows for much more room and the passenger side is no problem as much less wires go to it for only the single window.
 
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