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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so what are some things that can cause rough idle ?? i have new plugs in (itv-22). fresh oil change. OCC install. new PCV. im stumped. this car is trying all my patience lately.
 

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The one step colder plugs will cause rough idle when ambient temps are low.
I've actually swapped back to stock during winter because of this.
 

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Vaccuum leak, intake leak beyond the Mass Air Flow Sensor.
You turbo guys have lots of intake routing, intercooler? Spray Ether around. If idle changes, bingo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i dont think it is colder plugs being issue and they are gapped correctly. maf has been cleaned a week ago. im leaning towards intake mani might not be torqued to right spec. any one have that spec ?
 

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maf has been cleaned a week ago. im leaning towards intake mani might not be torqued to right spec. any one have that spec ?
I meant any air leaking into the intake system past the point of the MAF, not around the MAF. If the MAF is sensing 1 litre of air yet there is 1.1 litre of air going in the engine then mixture is off and it will be rough. Air leaking in thru any intake tube or maybe intercooler would cause this as well as any vaccuum hose cracked or sucking air.
Did you recently have intake manifold off? If you did you should have put new gasket on. I don't know the spec for torque on it, sorry. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes i had the mani off two weeks ago and i did use a new gasket.
 

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Did you take the intake mani off to do the OCC install? If so, check the plug that goes to the TB... it has a red clip on it. I didn't push mine in all the way, and it threw some codes. A friend had the same issue, but no codes, but fuel cut and all kinds of crazy shit. It's the one clip that is different than the others, and easy to oversee. Worth checking anyways with all the problems you've been having. GL
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes i had the mani off for occ install. you talking about the red clip on the vacuum hose that goes into front of mani or the red locking tab that locks the connector in for "drive by wire".

i didn't torque down the mani when i did it i just made them "tight" so im thinking the new gasket settled and it needs to be torqued now.
 

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yes i had the mani off for occ install. you talking about the red clip on the vacuum hose that goes into front of mani or the red locking tab that locks the connector in for "drive by wire".

i didn't torque down the mani when i did it i just made them "tight" so im thinking the new gasket settled and it needs to be torqued now.
The second one with the red locking tab. It's worth a quick disconnect/reconnect for the hell of it. IIRC, you don't need to remove anything to get at it. Be careful and check the torque specs on the mani... if you over tq them, they can crack. I should know, lol. However, mine was one of the 3 or 4 that attaches to the fuel rail, so it wasn't a big deal... many people that use an intake mani spacer only have the mani held on by the 5 head bolts, and are leak free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i checked my vacuum lines and none were cracked or loose. i also re torqued the top mani bolts and they weren't loose either. i set the wrench at 20 ft lbs because i was 6inch extension. i know there is a formula to calc the difference but i dont have it lol

only thing i found wrong was the clamp on the turbo that connects the TIP was loose and i had to give it a good 12 turns to get it tight again.... not sure why... car seems to idle better and the vacuum pressure is at a steady 20 now instead of like 16-18. so i guess that was a good thing to look at.
 
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That was it for sure. You had a vacuum leak where the TIP meets the turbo. My vacuum is always at least 20.
 

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i checked my vacuum lines and none were cracked or loose. i also re torqued the top mani bolts and they weren't loose either. i set the wrench at 20 ft lbs because i was 6inch extension. i know there is a formula to calc the difference but i dont have it lol
I still don't own a tq wrench, and I'm good at snapping the weak ass bolts on this car, so don't sweat it, lol.

only thing i found wrong was the clamp on the turbo that connects the TIP was loose and i had to give it a good 12 turns to get it tight again.... not sure why... car seems to idle better and the vacuum pressure is at a steady 20 now instead of like 16-18. so i guess that was a good thing to look at.
That's great news! I'd replace that clamp for sure. Either you forgot to tighten it last time, it backed itself out, or it's about to break. I'd put a new one on just for peace of mind. Psyched you found it! Still haven't even started to look for my leak(s) yet. I'm getting sick of this car with no where to work on it... I'm gonna look into paying to have a BT installed, or I'm going to dump it.
 

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IM bolts should be torqued to 13-16 ft lbs. 1/4 in torque wrench works perfect for this. Harbor Freight has a nice one for $29.00. There's a 20% off coupon out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That was it for sure. You had a vacuum leak where the TIP meets the turbo. My vacuum is always at least 20.
i figured 18 or so was good and considering i never rly had rough idle that i noticed before i never thought anything of it.

That's great news! I'd replace that clamp for sure. Either you forgot to tighten it last time, it backed itself out, or it's about to break. I'd put a new one on just for peace of mind. Psyched you found it! Still haven't even started to look for my leak(s) yet. I'm getting sick of this car with no where to work on it... I'm gonna look into paying to have a BT installed, or I'm going to dump it.
the worst part about that is i never once touched that clamp or anything that attaches to it.... which means it was loose from when i got the car. and god knows how long before that...

IM bolts should be torqued to 13-16 ft lbs. 1/4 in torque wrench works perfect for this. Harbor Freight has a nice one for $29.00. There's a 20% off coupon out there.
that is what i have and used. my snap-on one is 1/2 but it didn't fit. but you have to increase torque value if you use an extension.



now my question is besides rough idle what would it of affected having a leak right there at the turbo ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i dont get it ?? lol

you put in the torque at the dial and the torque at the end of wrench is a lot higher.
 

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Wait...that last post from me doesn't apply to normal ext. An extension (i.e. 90 degrees from face of torque wrench)... will not change the torque.

Funny pick of the day:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
oh wow it seems i have been getting wrong information about this. glad i didn't go higher then 20 ft lbs or i would of had an issue i think... glad we brought this subject up.

also i think that clamp has taken a shit because my vacuum is a little lower today at idle and normal operating temp. altho it is not off by much. i think new clamp is in order.
 

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