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Hello, I own a Mazda 6 2004 GG series that has 287 000 KM on the odometer. It is also a right-hand drive car from Australia.
The car runs and drives but has issues appearing. These are rough shifting gears, AT light appearing and changing into 4th gear and not leaving that gear until I restart my car. It also will not engage reverse (this is one of my main concerns as it is essential). The car just revs and goes nowhere. I have tried to research the problem and have tried to replace the PCM, but once swapped the car will not turn over. I think that this is a programming issue? Any help or tips will be muchly appreciated Thanks.

On a side note, I have changed the automatic transmission fluid 3 times (flushed it) and have changed the automatic transmission filter. The solenoids have been check and seem to be in good condition. I have also run an OBD scanner and nothing has come up as an error code.
 

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Hello, I own a Mazda 6 2004 GG series that has 287 000 KM on the odometer. It is also a right-hand drive car from Australia.
The car runs and drives but has issues appearing. These are rough shifting gears, AT light appearing and changing into 4th gear and not leaving that gear until I restart my car. It also will not engage reverse (this is one of my main concerns as it is essential). The car just revs and goes nowhere. I have tried to research the problem and have tried to replace the PCM, but once swapped the car will not turn over. I think that this is a programming issue? Any help or tips will be muchly appreciated Thanks.

On a side note, I have changed the automatic transmission fluid 3 times (flushed it) and have changed the automatic transmission filter. The solenoids have been check and seem to be in good condition. I have also run an OBD scanner and nothing has come up as an error code.
Sorry to hear. Have you considered replacing the transmission, as 287,000km seems like a great run from an automatic?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry to hear. Have you considered replacing the transmission, as 287,000km seems like a great run from an automatic?
I have thought of changing the automatic transmission but thought 'is it worth it' I am young and it is my first car. I bought it as the transmission was perfect at purchase. The signs began once I changed the transmission fluid and filter. I have flushed the system twice and will be doing it 2 more with an additive that expands the seals. Any idea if it was band-aided at my purchase.
Cheers
 

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I have thought of changing the automatic transmission but thought 'is it worth it' I am young and it is my first car. I bought it as the transmission was perfect at purchase. The signs began once I changed the transmission fluid and filter. I have flushed the system twice and will be doing it 2 more with an additive that expands the seals. Any idea if it was band-aided at my purchase.
Cheers
I would think that if it was"fine" before you intervened then it was likely something that happened then.
Flushing seems to be the "kiss-of-death" for transmissions with mileage, expecially if it has never been done. It seems to dislodge debris that then moves to a new place to rest, frequently clogging something up. In medicine this happens all the time.
When you say flush I am assuming using pressure of some sort? If by flushing you mean drain and refill, that is different.

Some questions I have are:
How long ago did you buy it?
How many miles did you put on it?
What exactly did you do to replace the trans fluid?
What fluid did you put in it?
 

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I would be curious on what the transmission fluid looked like when you first changed it and had it ever been changed before. Sounds like the classic case of really old fluid in a high mileage transmission. This old fluid is full of old clutch lining offering some form grip for the clutches and bands. New fluid is slippery offering no grip.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would think that if it was"fine" before you intervened then it was likely something that happened then.
Flushing seems to be the "kiss-of-death" for transmissions with mileage, expecially if it has never been done. It seems to dislodge debris that then moves to a new place to rest, frequently clogging something up. In medicine this happens all the time.
When you say flush I am assuming using pressure of some sort? If by flushing you mean drain and refill, that is different.

Some questions I have are:
How long ago did you buy it?
How many miles did you put on it?
What exactly did you do to replace the trans fluid?
What fluid did you put in it?
Thanks for the reply.
I bought it with 284000 KM and have put on 4000 since. The purchase was made in mid-December 2020.
In regards to the fluid, I just drained it twice and replaced the filter the first time. No pressure was used just drain and fill. I am also planning to do two more drains and fills also planning to add the Lucas treatment on the last fill. The fluid I put in was Penrite AT-FS (the only recommended non-Mazda branded ATF I could find).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I would be curious on what the transmission fluid looked like when you first changed it and had it ever been changed before. Sounds like the classic case of really old fluid in a high mileage transmission. This old fluid is full of old clutch lining offering some form grip for the clutches and bands. New fluid is slippery offering no grip.
Yes, the Transmission fluid was extremely dirty once I drained it the first time. I have kept samples of each drain and fill to compare.
 

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At this point I would put in the cheapest Ford type F ATF. The F fluid does not have any friction modifiers in it. You have nothing to lose. Maybe even a quart of Lucas trans slip fix.
 

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@Oliman unfortunately, I have seen what you describe before (more than once frankly). Looking at and smelling the trans fluid is one of those necessary things when purchasing an automatic. If th fluid is super fresh, be wary. If the fluid smells burnt, walk away. Maybe you did this and rolled the dice I don't know. At this point I think that what @DamMechanic said sounds very reasonable. Otherwise, I feel that a new transmission will be in order. Sorry mate, it's not the news I like to provide.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
New issues that I have encountered with the car are; the car has clicked into reverse but now does not drive properly from 1-4. No power and the car brakes automatically slam on once I reach a speed of over 20km/hr in first gear. what I have narrowed it down to from personal research is the PCM or possible clogged oil pump which does not allow the correct amount of hydraulic pressure through to engage gears. I am thinking of getting the transmission flushed with pressure and drained to the bare bones.

To fix the reverse issue listed originally I drained some ATF and added the Lucas treatment. I then went for a drive to try and run the Lucas treatment through the transmission. in doing this I kept trying reverse until it finally clicked in. in doing this it blew smoke from the transmission or engine, ( it smelt like ATF fluid ) the car now works immaculately in reverse but 1-4 gears do not work and lack extreme power. Also, the AT light comes on and the manual mode does not work. Also, there are no engine warning lights and no error codes on the OBD scanner.

Any help would be muchly appreciated. I am a first-time car owner and have an apprenticeship and go to school. Anything helps please and thanks.
 

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New issues that I have encountered with the car are; the car has clicked into reverse but now does not drive properly from 1-4. No power and the car brakes automatically slam on once I reach a speed of over 20km/hr in first gear. what I have narrowed it down to from personal research is the PCM or possible clogged oil pump which does not allow the correct amount of hydraulic pressure through to engage gears. I am thinking of getting the transmission flushed with pressure and drained to the bare bones.

To fix the reverse issue listed originally I drained some ATF and added the Lucas treatment. I then went for a drive to try and run the Lucas treatment through the transmission. in doing this I kept trying reverse until it finally clicked in. in doing this it blew smoke from the transmission or engine, ( it smelt like ATF fluid ) the car now works immaculately in reverse but 1-4 gears do not work and lack extreme power. Also, the AT light comes on and the manual mode does not work. Also, there are no engine warning lights and no error codes on the OBD scanner.

Any help would be muchly appreciated. I am a first-time car owner and have an apprenticeship and go to school. Anything helps please and thanks.
So when you put the vehicle in drive it does nothing when you rev the engine? If that is the case that's quite typical with those trans after about 100-150k miles. Basically the clutch material inside has just deteriorated so much that all valves in the body get clogged and the clutches no longer activate. Unfortunately this is usually the end for the trans once you lose the gears. This exact same thing happened to a friends 07 cx-7 at 100k miles. The best way to test this is by putting the vehicle in drive with your foot holding the brakes down so the car can't move, then you rev the engine and see if it makes any torque or if you feel the car want to go forward at all. If there's no movement than you know the clutches aren't activating.
 

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@Oliman I am very skeptical that it is your PCM. I would look at when it got bad/worse and what you did right before that.
If you were working on the light switch and the lamp no longer works it probably wasn't a problem with the TV remote.
If anything I would look into the TCM before the PCM but a high mileage automatic transmission with known bad fluid, that stops working correctly after fluid change, is pretty much a slam-dunk for me. I just went through this with a Volvo XC70.
The question from my perspective is, do you pay a transmission tech several hundred to diagnose and recommend (what will likely be a replacement unit for cost purposes, as they are frequently costlier to repair than replace), or do you save the diagnostic expanse and just replace. Two hundred eighty four thousand kilometers is an awful lot of mileage on an automatic, especially assuming the fluid has never been replaced, which is possible.

I have thought of changing the automatic transmission but thought 'is it worth it' I am young and it is my first car. I bought it as the transmission was perfect at purchase. The signs began once I changed the transmission fluid and filter. I have flushed the system twice and will be doing it 2 more with an additive that expands the seals. Any idea if it was band-aided at my purchase.
Cheers
I think you know the answer here and the only reason I am reiterating it because of the part of your comment that I have put in bold. Being young and buying a vehicle that is a bit long in the tooth means you probably don't have a lot of disposable income. I would hate to see you spend extra on the diagnostics to only have to replace it in the end.

Source a replacement (preferably with a warranty) and install it. Take the old unit apart solenoid by solenoid and see if you can't find the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update!
Thanks, guys for the responses.
I have gone to see a few transmission auto mechanics that specialized in transmission and one suspected the bands are shot. Although since reverse was not working i had added the Lucas treatment. i then went to drive and build pressure and constantly tried reversing which then ended up in reverse working and engaging with full power. After that, the gears through 1-4 had become shot not working and locking up the wheels at speeds of 60km/hr. The car would also rev without going anywhere. since this, i had driven forwards with the AT light on which then fix gears 1-4 and are now running smoothly with no power loss. with this comes reverse not working anymore. Something i have come to is that i might have a worn/broken cog and possible PCM problem which a mechanic also suggested.
 

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Update!
Thanks, guys for the responses.
I have gone to see a few transmission auto mechanics that specialized in transmission and one suspected the bands are shot. Although since reverse was not working i had added the Lucas treatment. i then went to drive and build pressure and constantly tried reversing which then ended up in reverse working and engaging with full power. After that, the gears through 1-4 had become shot not working and locking up the wheels at speeds of 60km/hr. The car would also rev without going anywhere. since this, i had driven forwards with the AT light on which then fix gears 1-4 and are now running smoothly with no power loss. with this comes reverse not working anymore. Something i have come to is that i might have a worn/broken cog and possible PCM problem which a mechanic also suggested.
Thanks for the update. Not too many other ways to look at it now.
I would not drive this car anymore, if not for your own safety, then for others on the road.
 

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I still stand by changing to type F fluid with the Lucas. Yep the transmission is toast but it was working with the old crap fluid for the 4K miles you had it. You might get it to limp along for a while.
Your PCM has a 99.9% chance of being not the problem. It worked until you changed the fluid, so changing the fluid will not have damaged it.
Your only other options are to get a used transmission and take the roll of the dice that it is any good. These transmissions are not know for there longevity with spotty maintenance as you now know.
Sure a wreaking yard will give you a warranty for the transmission but not the labor to put it in. It’s the same labor if it’s a used transmission being put in or a rebuilt. Or just off the car.
I will never understand why people will not spend the money to maintain transmissions. If it was just changed every 30k, they will last damn near the life of the car. I changed mine every 10k and it shifted just as good as the day I got it as it did at 235k miles.
 
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