replacing lower control arms on a 2014 6 - is this a DIY job?
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Not that hard, not really a DIY yet. Just take your time.
Not bad at all. Just make sure you have a few tools. Generally you need a 1/2in drive metric socket set, torque wrench and joint separator.
When you toque them down at the end make sure you do it with the suspension in the normal ride height position.
Nice and easy unless everything is super rusted.
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+1 👍👍👍
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Yes. This is how I replaced mine on my 2014 GT.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I tried to use one of those for my front lower rears. Amazon Special. Not sure where to source a better one, but I ended up stripping the thread on the bolt because the damn thing was in so tight. Ended up using the tool to preload the joint and whacked it several times with a BFHammer to get it off. Tool shot across the garage with a ping once it broke free... good times.
Sounds about right. Did you lubricate the threads and piston head well? Most times the threads strip when they are not greased prior to use. Always makes me jump when that thing lets go. You never know the moment it is going to BAM!! let go...I tried to use one of those for my front lower rears. Amazon Special. Not sure where to source a better one, but I ended up stripping the thread on the bolt because the damn thing was in so tight. Ended up using the tool to preload the joint and whacked it several times with a BFHammer to get it off. Tool shot across the garage with a ping once it broke free... good times.
Yeah. I lubed up the tool with 3 in 1 oil prior to use (vs WD-40 lol). The threads weren’t square profile like one would expect from a heavy duty tool, so not surprised they turned into shavings.
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Story of my car repair life.........
Lower control arms are quite easy, BUT... having the PROPER tools really helps !
ALWAYS wet all bolts and nuts with PB BLASTER, it's what works and that is really a NO BRAINER !
DO NOT use WD40, it is a grease/oil displacer, NOT lubricant !
In reverse:
1. ALWAYS tighten bolts of control arms with vehicle weight(NOT on lift or floor jacks), at the end/final.
2. ALWAYS pre-lube everything
3. Having impact driver really aids in the R & R
4. DON'T skimp on VALUE, buy good stuff that WILL last(don't be a cheap-skate).
Otherwise you'll be doing it AGAIN soon !
5. PUT a large cloth bag or similar at end of large nuts so they don't FLY and hit someone(you ?)
6. DON'T rush, takes time, it is easy but you don't want to do again.
Everything else should be self common sense
Vrooom, Vroom...
ALWAYS wet all bolts and nuts with PB BLASTER, it's what works and that is really a NO BRAINER !
DO NOT use WD40, it is a grease/oil displacer, NOT lubricant !
In reverse:
1. ALWAYS tighten bolts of control arms with vehicle weight(NOT on lift or floor jacks), at the end/final.
2. ALWAYS pre-lube everything
3. Having impact driver really aids in the R & R
4. DON'T skimp on VALUE, buy good stuff that WILL last(don't be a cheap-skate).
Otherwise you'll be doing it AGAIN soon !
5. PUT a large cloth bag or similar at end of large nuts so they don't FLY and hit someone(you ?)
6. DON'T rush, takes time, it is easy but you don't want to do again.
Everything else should be self common sense
Vrooom, Vroom...
Well done! Love the video.
Nice write-up/advice.
Keep in mind when torquing a bolt that adding a lubricant lowers the torque value by 25-50%
The "non-lubricated" state of a bolt is considered to be clean with a light coat of machine oil on it, as if you just cut it.
If you shoot for the middle/lower of the specified torque range it should be fine regardless of lubrication state.
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