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Discussion Starter #1
Well,

The Speed6 door panels (except the driver door) are designed a bit differently than previous models.

They each have the handle on it, instead of the insert in the door.

My question is, how are these panels removed? I don't want to use a screwdriver and pry things apart that will never look the same again. I just want to change my Bose speakers with some Infinity components.

Any adive/tips/help/pics are appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

-Pathik
www.pracing.com
 

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Nobody else answered yet? Oh well, I'll give it a try then. I've taken off the rear door panels to put in some Infinity Reference 6x8s. Yes they're 4 ohms and not 2, but they work fine for the amount of volume I usually listen to. I'm swapping out the fronts for some Reference components too. Why Reference? I prefer the soft dome tweeter (smoother highs) to the MMD tweeter on the Kappas.

There are two screws behind the cover on the handle. To remove the trim piece, get a large thin bladed screwdriver or something equivalent and pry gently but persistently at the lower edge of the hard shiny trim piece. Try not to mark up the door panel as it is soft. I found it best to focus on one corner (usually the one to the rear of the car) and get that one pried out a bit. Once there is a bit of a gap you can work up along the edge of the trim piece and get it moving out further. After that it's just a wiggle and pull exercise. Take care when you get to the top, work it out slowly as there is a tab that can be easily broken off. Don't just yank the trim piece off. Remove the two Phillips head screws that are now accessible.

Rest of the removal process is the same as the other 6s. I found it easiest to start popping off the clips holding the panel to the skin by putting my hand inside the space where the plastic latch handle was and applying outward pressure at the top inner corner to get the clip to release. Once this popped off I could lift up the panel edge and start popping off the remaining clips, working down then along the bottom and finally up the back edge.

If some of the clips break on you and stay stuck in the door. use a small socket or stubby screwdriver with removable hex tips, but without a tip installed. Use this to press on the inside tip of the clip to press it out. This hollow socket will allow you to put a lot of pressure on the clip and, it will slightly compress the clip barbs to help them release due to the shape of the clip and the socket.

Reinstallation of the trim piece on the handle is the opposite. Seat the upper tab first, then work the piece in from the top down. It will just snap into place.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
FINALLY, thanks a lot man.

I'll be installing them today :)

I hope the rears are the same as the 6s in regards to speaker size. I don't see why they would change it.

Thanks again, I got Infinity Kappas 50.7cs (rear) and 60.7cs (front). Excellent,top of the line from Infinity.
 

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FINALLY, thanks a lot man.

I'll be installing them today :)

I hope the rears are the same as the 6s in regards to speaker size. I don't see why they would change it.

Thanks again, I got Infinity Kappas 50.7cs (rear) and 60.7cs (front). Excellent,top of the line from Infinity.
[/b]
I installed my 60.7cs in the front yesterday. I absolutly love them!
 

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FINALLY, thanks a lot man.

I'll be installing them today :)

I hope the rears are the same as the 6s in regards to speaker size. I don't see why they would change it.

Thanks again, I got Infinity Kappas 50.7cs (rear) and 60.7cs (front). Excellent,top of the line from Infinity.
[/b]
You're welcome. The 50.7cs should fit in the back fine. You're going to cut a hole in the panel somewhere up top for the tweeter?

I installed 6810 (6x8) instead. I thought about components but decided to minimize the highs coming from the back, letting them stay low, coaxial with the mid driver. I didn't want to shift the image too far back, since high frequencies are really directional. The 6x8s go straight into the hole left by the adapter. That's the only drawback of using a 5.25" size is that you're reusing the adapter, which is plastic, mounting into another piece of plastic (the inner door liner). Should still sound great though!

Are you planning on installing any sound deadener? I'm going to later on, when the Reference Components and RAAMmat arrives.
 

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You're welcome. The 50.7cs should fit in the back fine. You're going to cut a hole in the panel somewhere up top for the tweeter?

I installed 6810 (6x8) instead. I thought about components but decided to minimize the highs coming from the back, letting them stay low, coaxial with the mid driver. I didn't want to shift the image too far back, since high frequencies are really directional. The 6x8s go straight into the hole left by the adapter. That's the only drawback of using a 5.25" size is that you're reusing the adapter, which is plastic, mounting into another piece of plastic (the inner door liner). Should still sound great though!

Are you planning on installing any sound deadener? I'm going to later on, when the Reference Components and RAAMmat arrives.
[/b]

Did you guys change only the speakers?
 

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Did you guys change only the speakers?
[/b]
Yes, I changed only the speakers. Infinity Reference series, 6802cf (current version is called the 6812cf) 6x8s in the rear doors, 6010cs (most current version) 6.5" components in the front. I cut off the plastic trim that comes on the Reference component tweeters and removed the grilles. That left a bare tweeter that just fits into the factory holders, and are held in perfectly by the stock bracket.

I put the crossovers inside the doors, velcro'd against the inside door lip just under the speaker opening. I then put a piece of duct tape on it to further secure it. I sealed up all the openings in the crossover box with electrical tape and wrapped up the terminals in plastic sheet to keep moisture/rain from the windows off.

The 6010cs crossovers come with two positions for the tweeters, 0dB or -3dB (slightly reduced output compared to woofer). I found that to get good balance and stereo imaging from either the driver's seat or passenger seat that the passenger side tweeter had to be set to the -3dB position. That moves the stereo image more to the center of the dash or windshield, which is where you want it. Set at 0dB (same as driver's side) the whole image was skewed to the right or passenger side.

I think there's two reasons for this. First, the passenger side tweeter has a more direct "line of sight" to the driver's right ear. The left tweeter is quite off axis. High freq are very directional, so the right tweeter being more in line with the tweeter means you hear it more than the left tweeter. Second, the left tweeter is firing into the side of the instrument pod, and then there's the steering column and steering wheel to block some of the signal as well.

Anyways it was a nice feature, to be able to individually adjust each tweeter output instead of using the stereo balance and tweeter level controls.

I did put sound deadener and acoustic foam in all four doors. That made a very big improvement as well, reducing resonances and tightening up the bass. Bass has a nice, sharp attack now, with no buzzing or boominess. I'm going to do the rear deck and trunk as well. I'm undecided as to whether I should replace the Bose sub or not, but I'm pretty happy with the bass as it is now.

With the Infinity References I have to run the volume level a bit higher than I did with the stock speakers. For normal listening, around a setting of 18-19, compared to 14-15 with stock speakers. Max setting is 32, but I find 25 is plenty for my needs, so it's good enough for me and I'm not going to put in an aftermarket amp.

If you used Kappas, you could probably match the stock speaker sound levels at the same volume settings. The newest Kappas (ending in a .7, as in 60.7cs, or 682.7cf) use neodymium magnets and are 2-3dB more efficient than the References I used. This means I'd have to almost double the signal going to the References to get the same apparent volume level as the new Kappas.
 

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Ok a quick question. I have a 6i, and am looking at replacing my front and rear speakers. I have heard that they are 6X8 by Best Buy and Crutchfield. But circuit city says that it is a 6.5. Well, can someone please clearify this for me. Thanks.
 

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Ok a quick question. I have a 6i, and am looking at replacing my front and rear speakers. I have heard that they are 6X8 by Best Buy and Crutchfield. But circuit city says that it is a 6.5. Well, can someone please clearify this for me. Thanks.[/b]
Can't tell you for certain. I have an '06 Mazdaspeed6 with Bose. It came stock with 5.25" speakers mounted in 6x8 adapters, so the hole in the door can accept 6x8 directly (5x7 as well). On mine that hole and the stock adapter will NOT accept a 6.5". A different adapter would be required.

I don't have any experience with other Mazda6 models. What I describe above may not be the same as for your car. Best thing to do is to take one door trim panel off as described in the 2nd post above and confirm for yourself. It's not a lot of work and good practice for when you have the speakers in hand and want to do the swap for real. It'll probably take you 15minutes to do.
 

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Nobody else answered yet? Oh well, I'll give it a try then. I've taken off the rear door panels to put in some Infinity Reference 6x8s. Yes they're 4 ohms and not 2, but they work fine for the amount of volume I usually listen to. I'm swapping out the fronts for some Reference components too. Why Reference? I prefer the soft dome tweeter (smoother highs) to the MMD tweeter on the Kappas.

There are two screws behind the cover on the handle. To remove the trim piece, get a large thin bladed screwdriver or something equivalent and pry gently but persistently at the lower edge of the hard shiny trim piece. Try not to mark up the door panel as it is soft. I found it best to focus on one corner (usually the one to the rear of the car) and get that one pried out a bit. Once there is a bit of a gap you can work up along the edge of the trim piece and get it moving out further. After that it's just a wiggle and pull exercise. Take care when you get to the top, work it out slowly as there is a tab that can be easily broken off. Don't just yank the trim piece off. Remove the two Phillips head screws that are now accessible.

Rest of the removal process is the same as the other 6s. I found it easiest to start popping off the clips holding the panel to the skin by putting my hand inside the space where the plastic latch handle was and applying outward pressure at the top inner corner to get the clip to release. Once this popped off I could lift up the panel edge and start popping off the remaining clips, working down then along the bottom and finally up the back edge.

If some of the clips break on you and stay stuck in the door. use a small socket or stubby screwdriver with removable hex tips, but without a tip installed. Use this to press on the inside tip of the clip to press it out. This hollow socket will allow you to put a lot of pressure on the clip and, it will slightly compress the clip barbs to help them release due to the shape of the clip and the socket.

Reinstallation of the trim piece on the handle is the opposite. Seat the upper tab first, then work the piece in from the top down. It will just snap into place.
Rear window in my MS6 wouldn't go down when I bought it... searched and just used these instructions to pull my door panel apart to find the power clip undone. 15 minutes and problem solved. Thanks!
 
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