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Discussion Starter #1
Let me start by stating my setup:

Bose HU
Infinity amp
Infinity Basslink

I had my system installed for almost a year now without any problem. But recently the sound in my system would drop out for a few seconds and come back on. I found out that the power to my amp and sub was being cut.

This is where the weird part comes. I figured it was my fuse and it seemed to be. I checked the power line fuse in the engine bay, the case was cracked and I replaced it. It worked for a few minutes before the system shut down again. Now I isolated the problem to the remote lead. The power seems fine because when I bridge the remote input on the amp to the 12 v power input, everything powered up fine.

So here's the headache. The remote wire on the bose wiring harness doesn't seem to work anymore. I ran another wire straight from that to my amp's remote input and nothing powered up. Is there a possibility the remote out failed? The rest of the HU seems fine as sound comes out when the amp is powered up. Is there any other wire I can splice the remote wire into? 12v Acc on the harness? or anything near the trunk because if at all possible, I don't want to take apart the console to hook the remote lead to the cigarette lighter.
 

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taking the center counsel apart enough to get to the cig lighter socket is easy; you wouldn't need to pull the whole dash apart. running a single wire for remote amp turn on should take less than 15 minutes. you can always run it to the fuse box in the DKP, or the ignition harness. wherever you grab it, be sure to fuse the wire within 6 inches of the power source. use a 3 or 5 amp fuse.

is the bose sub still installed? does it work? use a digital multi-meter to test the 12vACC at the bose sub harness.

also, check your ground to ensure that it's making good contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, pretty much checked everything. For some reason, the REM from the harness is just not sending anything out. I would like to tap into the bose sub's 12v acc, but does it still have power even with the stock amp removed?
 

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the blue/red strip wire in the bose sub harness is 12vACC. as with any wire tapping, be sure to test with your digital multi-meter to be sure. also, fuse within 6 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I didn't splice into the sub 12v acc, but I did pull out the harness and stuck a wire straight into the socket. Didn't seem to do anything though. So I ended up splicing into the secondary cigarette lighter (pink wire). It's definitely a lot tougher to removing the panel on an automatic due to the shift gate restrictions. Everything is working again and the slight speaker hiss seems to be gone too, which is weird cuz I thought it would generate more interference than the HU's rem.

But a to why my HU's rem crapped out is still a mystery. Not sure how I'm even gonna sell this car with the bose stereo now that it doesn't work anymore.

Also, mk706, what do you mean by fuse within 6 inches. In my case, should I but a 5 amp fuse within 6 inches of my amp or the cigarette lighter?
 

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In my case, should I but a 5 amp fuse within 6 inches of my amp or the cigarette lighter?
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from the source of power, in your case the cig lighter socket.

also, make sure that your amp has a fuse as well on the 12V constant. a lot of amps out there have a built in fuse, like 20-40 amps. however, if your amp doesn't have a fuse you should add an inline fuse, or fuse block, within 18 inches before the amp.

the rationale behind the fusing is to protect the circuit and reduce the likelihood of fire.
 
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