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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for an explanation of a CEL I keep getting. I don't have the actual code, but the circumstances for the riggering seem to be consistent. I will usually reset after I start the car 5 times, but them it comes back on following a little time on the freeway (only the freeway).

I had the CEL just prior to my warranty expiring so I took it to the dealer to have them look at it. They told me (which come to find out was a load of bull) my Injen intake caused a vacuum leak in the fuel regulator vacuum line which caused the CEL to be triggered due to a lean condition in one o the cylinders. I have had the intake on for all but 2K of my currently 53K and have never had a problem. (There's a $110 down the drain!!)

Anywho, I have recently (3K ago) replaced the plugs to NGK Iridiums, and like I said before the CEL only comes on in the heat of the day on the freeway after about 10-15 minutes at speed. It then resets itself after 5 starts. There are no other secondary indications of a problem and the car seems to run fine, just the stupid light.

Has anyone experienced this? Any advice out there?

m0rph3u5
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's not that...I have the CPE fix. When I took it in the first time the Stealer told me about that code in the PCM but said that there was another code in there having to do with a lean condition in the fuel system.

Thanks for the post though.

m0rph3u5
 

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I've had about 7 CELs, usually ever 4 months or so, and the dealers don't seem to know what they are. They like to blame any aftermarket mod, even if its unrelated, like CP-E engine mounts, intake, engine dampeners, etc. I had P0441 a couple times, which was supposedly a purge solenoid sticking. There was also an improper flow code on another occasion, which they didn't or couldn't explain. They blamed the mods again, so I left totally unsatisfied after arguing with them. They wouldn't investigate or narrow it down unless I removed my mods. The light was gone though and didn't come back for about 4 months. When it came back on, I just reset it the old fashion way by removing the battery terminals and knocking them together, and it hasn't come back on in a few weeks. My warranty is up, and the car, even with the CEL on, always runs like a thief, so if it come back on, I'll take it to a shop or Pep Boys and let them scan it, rather than having the dealer do so. I wrote MazdaUSA to protest, but they just apologized and recommended different dealerships....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply...my CEL has since gone away again and my 6 continues to run like a raped ape. Leave it to those silly trons to always keep money in the dealers pockets, huh?
 

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Might see if you can get your current CEL code scanned somewhere else besides a dealer. CAN compatible readers are gettting more common as all cars will be CAN-based OBD2 in 2008. Might try a AZ, Advance, or maybe a Pep Boys. Once you get the code it's at least possible to start diagnosing possible causes. From the symptoms though, it sounds like a typical "too lean because of CAI pipe size" type CEL as mentioned above. (Without a code it's all just guess work. :huh:
 

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Might see if you can get your current CEL code scanned somewhere else besides a dealer. CAN compatible readers are gettting more common as all cars will be CAN-based OBD2 in 2008. Might try a AZ, Advance, or maybe a Pep Boys. Once you get the code it's at least possible to start diagnosing possible causes. From the symptoms though, it sounds like a typical "too lean because of CAI pipe size" type CEL as mentioned above. (Without a code it's all just guess work. :huh:[/b]
What does "CAN" based mean?
 

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yeah the dealer lies alla time. i have a scanner and have scanned the car and went in for a problem and they said i had a completely diff cel im like ur a idiot i scanned the damn cel myself and they fed me some crap about the handhelds dont read it rite and their machine is better and i cant use an aftermarket handheld cuz it will fuck up the car.


i have a friend that would smell anti freeze when the heat was turned on and since he had the metra kit and an aftermarket head unit in their they told him that it punctured the coil which is a load of crap cuz the coil is several feet behind the dash by the firewall and um.. a head unit is no more than 7 inches long. so then they wouldnt cover it.
 

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yeah the dealer lies alla time. i have a scanner and have scanned the car and went in for a problem and they said i had a completely diff cel im like ur a idiot i scanned the damn cel myself and they fed me some crap about the handhelds dont read it rite and their machine is better and i cant use an aftermarket handheld cuz it will fuck up the car.
i have a friend that would smell anti freeze when the heat was turned on and since he had the metra kit and an aftermarket head unit in their they told him that it punctured the coil which is a load of crap cuz the coil is several feet behind the dash by the firewall and um.. a head unit is no more than 7 inches long. so then they wouldnt cover it.[/b]
The dealer uses an OEM scan tool which spits out different codes and descriptions then your generic scan tool. It's annoying at the least.

Somepne else posted "knocking the battery cables together"......Please Please in the name of everything sane do not do this to erase or clear the MIL codes. Any vehicle that is OBDII when disconnected from the battery erases the computers KAM (keep alive memory) Yeah if your lucky and the fault is not a hard fault the light will go off but the vehicle will also have to re-learn all of its minimum specs that it has learned based on your driving habits. This is just plain silly!

People please don't knock the batt cables together, this is not an old chevy, K, Thanks.

Ok, m0rph3u5 If you can provide the MIL code some way I can try to help you get it diagnosed otherwise it's hard to say whats going on.

Blackwell
ASE Master Technician
 
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