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I do. I'll try to test tomorrow. Been working with my seller to figure it out as well. First I had to swap the two wires on the 4 pin cam connector but still isn't working. Does anyone have a manual showing the pin out for the 24 pin connector for the 2014 vs the 2015?
 

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Do either of you have a multi-meter to test the connections?

Can you test the "Cam Line" to see if it outputs 12v from the canbus when put in reverse?
If so, looking at my picture. What is it outputting on "Pin A" on the camera harness side? 12V or 6V?

You can also swap on the camera plug pins "C" with "B" to see if that will help.

If not, you can leave it swapped and use the "White/Red" "1M" wire on the car harness side "pinout" picture. Solder both the "Cam Line" going into the new stereo and a new wire to swap with "Pin A" on the camera harness to that.

In my case the red/white wire was outputting 11.9V when just used as a trigger wire. When soldered together with another wire going to the camera, the voltage dropped to 5.92V on camera side. No voltage regulator was needed but test first.
Do you know if that image of the Head Unit connector is for the 2014 of 2015?
 

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Do either of you have a multi-meter to test the connections?

Can you test the "Cam Line" to see if it outputs 12v from the canbus when put in reverse?
If so, looking at my picture. What is it outputting on "Pin A" on the camera harness side? 12V or 6V?

You can also swap on the camera plug pins "C" with "B" to see if that will help.

If not, you can leave it swapped and use the "White/Red" "1M" wire on the car harness side "pinout" picture. Solder both the "Cam Line" going into the new stereo and a new wire to swap with "Pin A" on the camera harness to that.

In my case the red/white wire was outputting 11.9V when just used as a trigger wire. When soldered together with another wire going to the camera, the voltage dropped to 5.92V on camera side. No voltage regulator was needed but test first.
I find this via google search engine from someone, but not sure if this is right for 2015 Mazda 6 or not.
 

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Do either of you have a multi-meter to test the connections?

Can you test the "Cam Line" to see if it outputs 12v from the canbus when put in reverse?
If so, looking at my picture. What is it outputting on "Pin A" on the camera harness side? 12V or 6V?

You can also swap on the camera plug pins "C" with "B" to see if that will help.

If not, you can leave it swapped and use the "White/Red" "1M" wire on the car harness side "pinout" picture. Solder both the "Cam Line" going into the new stereo and a new wire to swap with "Pin A" on the camera harness to that.

In my case the red/white wire was outputting 11.9V when just used as a trigger wire. When soldered together with another wire going to the camera, the voltage dropped to 5.92V on camera side. No voltage regulator was needed but test first.
I'm not getting any voltage coming from the canbus line. I do get 12v from the 1M wire and if i jump that to the cam line on the HU it switches to the camera screen. Still not getting video but i think my seller might have had me change the wires around on the 4 pin cam connector incorrectly. I'm not in my car now so i'll have to check maybe tomorrow. It sure is getting frustrating though haha. Thanks for the help.
 

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So based on everything I'm seeing, it's not so much a 2014/2015 issue as it is an ATX/MTX issue. It appears to me that these things are plug and play for automatic transmissions, but putting the manual transmission in reverse doesn't send a signal from the Canbus.
 

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So based on everything I'm seeing, it's not so much a 2014/2015 issue as it is an ATX/MTX issue. It appears to me that these things are plug and play for automatic transmissions, but putting the manual transmission in reverse doesn't send a signal from the Canbus.
I just sent you a message back and realized we were the ones talking about this. I also noticed that I'm getting a popping noise from my right door speaker when I adjust the powered seat back position. I mentioned it to the seller, we'll see what they come up with.
 

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I just sent you a message back and realized we were the ones talking about this. I also noticed that I'm getting a popping noise from my right door speaker when I adjust the powered seat back position. I mentioned it to the seller, we'll see what they come up with.
Yikes. I threw the stock head unit back in because I use the backup camera every day. I'll try to find time to put the 9" back in this weekend and see if I have the same issue.
 

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I haven't been following this thread, but I just today finished wiring my own backup camera and had problems similar to some of you.

What I found is, the backup sense signal (the signal that tells the head unit to show the rear view) on my manual transmission 2015 cannot supply enough current to power the backup camera. The backup camera draws 84mA according to the power supply I hooked up. When I took power from the sense line, nothing happened when I shifted into reverse unless I left the camera unpowered. In that case, the head unit switched to the rear camera input, but of course had no signal.

Eventually, I took 12V from the accessory power line and fed it to a 6V linear regulator to the camera. This does mean that the camera is powered 100% of the time, but it appears to be working for me. Using the sense line to deliver power to the camera did not work.
 

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I haven't been following this thread, but I just today finished wiring my own backup camera and had problems similar to some of you.

What I found is, the backup sense signal (the signal that tells the head unit to show the rear view) on my manual transmission 2015 cannot supply enough current to power the backup camera. The backup camera draws 84mA according to the power supply I hooked up. When I took power from the sense line, nothing happened when I shifted into reverse unless I left the camera unpowered. In that case, the head unit switched to the rear camera input, but of course had no signal.

Eventually, I took 12V from the accessory power line and fed it to a 6V linear regulator to the camera. This does mean that the camera is powered 100% of the time, but it appears to be working for me. Using the sense line to deliver power to the camera did not work.
right, this is how I have mine set up currently as well. The reverse is just a trigger signal, the power can come from a 12V accessory (or in my case 12V from my HU), and then stepped down to 6V w/ a 12V to 6V transformer.
 

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right, this is how I have mine set up currently as well. The reverse is just a trigger signal, the power can come from a 12V accessory (or in my case 12V from my HU), and then stepped down to 6V w/ a 12V to 6V transformer.
Not a transformer... a transformer only works with AC, not DC. You need to use a voltage regulator.
 

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Not a transformer... a transformer only works with AC, not DC. You need to use a voltage regulator.
sorry, you are right. i need to get my terminology correct :). This is the one I used -
Robot Check

$7 on amazon. You will see in the comments section nearly everyone is using this for the same purpose... to retain their stock camera on an aftermarket HU.
 

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So, with this unit, http://www.aliexpress.com/item/8-Android-4-4-Car-PC-Audio-Video-Head-unit-For-Mazda-6-Atenza-2013-2014/32369470348.html. What all will I need to do to get the backup camera to work? That's literally the only thing holding me back from buying and changing out the stock head unit. When I hear cutting wires and soldering them in places I typically just say no thanks. I have the ATX, and saw someone say it's all just plug and play for them, yet some saying there was no video feed, so I'm confused.
 

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Having the same issues you all have talked about.

Pioneer 2400nex, factory installed OEM camera.

Everything seemed to be working except the camera signal.

Had some troubles finding the reverse signal, and then getting the voltages right out of the 12v 6v step down. Wired how the instructions said I was only getting 3v.

Rewired. So 12v at the red/white wire in the harness. 12v at the violet hu cam signal wire. 6v heading out the hot wire to the cam.

Hu flips to "camera" mode, but no image, just a black screen.

Stumped at this point.
 

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Decided to button it up at this time.

Hu works fine with the pac swi, AA, connected a dual usb port so AA connection is direct in front lighter spot plus hid a charger in the dash si that the 2nd usb is charge only.

Everything works except that dam rear cam video. Hu even trips over to a black screen, just can't get signal.

I think I plan to give up and get an aftermarket camera.
 

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Have you watched any of 5 Star Car Audios vids on YT? They go in depth about how fix issues like this with many cars and HU's and give you tips on how to figure out whats needed.
Actually yeah I’ve been following their channel for about 4 years now. I’ve done my fair share of headunit and amp installs but this is my first time working with a backup cam. Literally all I need to know is if there’s a wire in the factory wiring harness that has the backup trigger.
 
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