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Discussion Starter #1
Disclaimer: Read this entire thread through before attempting. If you still don't feel comfortable then don't do it. PM me if you have any questions. If you live close enough I'll come over and help you out.

First and foremost jack up the car and support it on jackstands. Never work under a vehicle that is only supported by the jack alone. Have your rear swaybar and bushing ready along with some brand new endlinks and nuts.

These instructions are about 99% the same as the Racing Beat ones, except that I took my swaybar out a little differently.

Here is a picture of all the tools that are required for this installation.



1 - 1/2" drive rachetting wrench
1 - 14mm deep socket
1 - 12mm deep socket
1 - 3/8 drive rachetting wrench
1 - 5mm allan head socket
1 - 1/2" or 3/8" drive torque wrench (must be able to be set at 45 ft.lbs)
1 - 14mm crowfoot socket
1 - 6" swivel extension for your crowsfoot.

Loctite (not shown) is optional, I used it but if this is done correctly you "shouldn't" need it.

Here is a better picture of the crowfoot socket incase people had no idea what it is.



Now if the crowsfoot socket and your torque wrench aren't the same drive you will need an adapter that will make it fit your torque wrench.

If this is your first time underneath your 6 take some time to see how things work and where everything is. This is the time you should decide if you need help. I did this installation with a friend my first time and then by myself the second time.

So here we go:



Looking up at the spring cup you will see the attachment piont for the rear swaybars endlink which is a 14mm bolt. This is the first piece to be removed. The other side of the car looks and functions exaclty the same, so remove this bolt on the other side as well.

Also in the above picture you will see 2 - 12mm bolts and 3 - 12mm nuts holding on a brace for the subframe. Remove the 2 bolts and 3 nuts and take the brace off the car and set it aside. Removing the drivers side is more important but I found for the extra 30 seconds you might as well remove the one on the passenger side as well, since sometimes the swaybar is a little tricky to remove and this just makes it a little easier.



Now we have the swaybar bushing. These location the swaybar relative the the subframe and chassis. Remove the top nut and the bottom bolt. Do this for both mounts amd pull the swaybar toward the front of the car to free the mounts incase they sticking to the subframe.

Next we will remove the swaybar from the vehicle. This is done by pulling the driverside half of the bar forward, and down.





Once the driverside part of the bar is down and out of the way remove the passenger side by moving it forward and then around the exhaust. My exhaust is a custom stovepipe and I was having trouble so I removed the center hanger for installation. If you are having the same issues just pull on the mount and it will come off. If it's being really stupid get some channel locks and pull it off.



Now that the bar is off the car you can do set it aside for sale on E-bay, or throw in the garbage, perhaps keep it as memory that you have left childhood and are now a real man, with a really big bar.

It's now time to attach your new endlinks to your new bar. This is the part that everyone according to Racing Beat is not doing correctly and thus resulted in having their endlinks fail. It's pretty easy to do it just looks complication, because I had to keep everything in place while taking the picture. Basically you do this: Hold the new swaybar between your feet to stop it from rotating. Place the 5mm allan head socket onto your 3/8" rachetting wrench, set this wrench to apply force in the counter clockwise direction. Put your crowsfoot socket and extension on your torque wrench and set it to 45 ft.lbs and to aplly force in the clockwise direction. Turn the too until the torque wrench clicks or beeps to indicate that the correct torque of 45 ft.lbs has been reached. At this time I also applied some red Loctite to the threads on the endlinks. This is how Racing Beat would like you to attach the endlinks so you don't have any issues. Now if I have any issues with this you can bet that they will be hearing from me. Here is what it looks like when you have everything ready to go.



*** IF YOU HAVE NEVER USED A CROWSFOOT SOCKET BEFORE, PLEASE PRACTISE ON SOMETHING BEFORE DOING THIS, CROWSFEET SOCKETS ARE REALLY ANNOYING !!! ***

Now that you have your endlinks torqued down properly get your pushings and some grease. I didn't think the grease supplied was enough because I have read on the forum of people complaining that there bars started to squeek, so I went out and bought a tube of grease.



Remember lubing these bushings are one of those time when you can't put enough. So the more the better, guys this may remind you of college, and some women for that matter. You can't put too much lube.



Now put the bushing on the bar with the flat part facing the direction the ends of the bar are pionted, try to keep these bushing in this position until it's time to bolt everything in. It's not really important it's just one of those things that will make life easier when it's time to bolt the bushing brackets back together.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c57/mazd...tx/HPIM0057.jpg

Installation is exactly the same as removal, just in the reverse order, if so just follow the pictures on your way back up to the top of this post and you should be fine. Please remember the 12mm nuts and bolts are very small and they are locking nuts so they will not be able to thread up all the way by hand. Because they are small they are prone to breaking if you over torque them so please be gentle. When you are finished you should have something that looks like this.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c57/mazd...tx/HPIM0058.jpg

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c57/mazd...tx/HPIM0059.jpg

I hope this cleared up some issues that people were having regarding the proper way to torque the endlinks.



EDIT: MAY 11, 2007. After going through my install and wondering why my endlinks eventually broke I realized that I installed the RB swaybar upside down. In the photo's if you look at the removal of the stock bar the end of the swaybar has an arch. The stock bar went up and over the spring cup, while the RB bar goes down closer to the spring cup. For those installing there bars in the further please be mindful of this. If you install the bar upside down the bar will come in contact with the spring cup and thus causes a shearing force on the endlinks which will cause there destruction. I will post more picture latter on when I change out the endlinks. Sorry for this mishap.
 

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Is that grease petrolumn based? Polyurethane bushing manufacturers advise to never use a petroleum based grease for poly bushing lubrication. Polyurethane should only be lubricated with one specific type of grease to insure a long bushing life, and squeak-free performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I ordered the endlinks from my local dealership, if came to something like $35 CAD after taxes for both the link and the nut.

I'm not 100% sure on the grease but I don't think I will have a problem, it's a general purpose grease and I use similar stuff at work with poly and I haven't noticed any issues.

One thing is for sure though, if there are any endlink issues I'm going straight to racing beat since there is no guessing as to whether or not I performed the installation incorrectly.



Ohh and yes that's rust you see on the car, not dirt. Canadian winters are very harsh as you can see.
 

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Sweet Diy. i will be doing mine soon
 

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My fiance got me these for our anniversary........in 2004! :hoho:

So, I've had these forever, just sitting in my garage in plastic begging to be put on. Unfortunately, I can't find the directions anymore. Oh well, thanks for the writeup so I can continue without them. Now that I've got my new rubber, I can't wait to get some more suspension upgrades.

Now I can't wait until my dampers blow so I can get the Koni yellows :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The rear bar totally changes the feel of the car.

Right now I'm waiting for the Koni rear shocks to arrive, and that should be my final upgrade to the rear suspension. Once the A-arms are all finished up I'll start to work on the rest of the front suspension.
 

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real men install the front one. hehe. that REALLY improves the feel of the car. but, its a ton of work. and kinda a pain. but the end result is awesome.

btw nice write up. i am working on one for the front. as i took plenty of pics during my install. :D
 

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The bushings are nothing on the front bar, just a PITA to get to the drivers side one undone the first time. Make sure you have the extension, or multiple extensions, that is the length they specific.
 

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Polyurethane should only be lubricated with one specific type of grease to insure a long bushing life, and squeak-free performance.
[/b]
And what is that specific type of lubrication?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don't think there is any. I did some experiments are work with rubber and polyurethane, and the rubber was the one that started to fall apart slightly with low grade petroleum grease (similar to vaseline). After 3 days the all the urethane tests looks fine.
 

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Ah, thanks for the pics and writeup. I'll be doing the rear bar along with the konis sometime this summer.

Those stock end-links look pretty small compared to the new bar. :)
 

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For those who sometimes wonder, which way is up, here's the definitive trick.

Set the swaybar on the floor and push on the middle of the bar, if it rocks back and forth, the bar is upside down.
Flip it around and go install it. :)

Also here are the torque values for anyone who loses the directions:

Bracket (12mm head): 13-19 ft/lbs
Sway Bar clamps: 32-36 ft/lbs
End links: 40-45 ft/lbs

Also, the Racing Beat directions say "remove the left side bracket". Well, I overthink everything and initially couldn't decide, "Do they mean, when I'm under the car, or sitting in the driver's seat or what?" They mean the driver's side (left hand drive) bracket.

Also, don't even bother trying to re-use the original endlinks. I didn't even try. I just ordered new endlinks and followed the forum suggestion of securing with red Loctite.
 
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