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And, nothing will happen, cause its been out of production for 10 years. They wont start making parts for a recall like that.
 

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Actually, it's been out of production for 9 years, and according to the NHTSA website, safety recalls can occur to vehicles up to 15 years PAST production date. There's also not a determining complaint number for them to start an inquiry, however, I'm sure the more complaints they get, the more they'll be inclined to start an inquiry.
 

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Hi Guys,
My 2009 Mazda 6 2.2 diesel has been running around the U.K. for approx 13 years, and i have had it for its last 3 years.
The car itself is quite superior to drive, but i noticed at its last yearly check for roadworthiness that the rear subframe was looking a bit tired, and
decided it was time to look around for a newer version of the same thing.
Does anyone know for sure when Mazda sorted this problem with the Mazda 6 and ensured that both front and rear subframes as well as everything else,
were made out of adequately engineerd metals.
I do not want to change brands, but i wont buy another Mazda till i know for sure that they have been treating these problems seriously.
thanks,
 

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Hi guys my Mazda 6 2009, 130k miles has severe rear subframe corrosion and complete failure. The right rear control arm is disconnected due to the rust. My car otherwise is in great shape. Is it a lost cause to repair?
 

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Hi guys my Mazda 6 2009, 130k miles has severe rear subframe corrosion and complete failure. The right rear control arm is disconnected due to the rust. My car otherwise is in great shape. Is it a lost cause to repair?
 

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Hi All

Sorry I know its about rear sub-frame - I removed mine one day and did POR15 all over it after clearing it with wire wheels etc and treated it with Fluid Film - I use Fluid Film under every time I do something on my car.
About front sub-frame here is the link:
Recalls | NHTSA - dealer did horrible job on mine but since then I use Fluid Film.

Good Luck all. Drive safely.
 

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My Mazda 6 rear subframe and other parts are so corroded after only 115000 miles. The repair is $7500 in one estimate. Right rear wheel is tilting in 5 to 10 degrees. My feelings for Mazda is now extremely bad. I'm going to share my experience everywhere. Those bastards at the insurance company totaled my car for this little damage. I had it repaired for much less than insurance gave me as the value of my car. But now Mazda is saying my car is BRANDED and they won't warranty or do any recall on it again. Eventually their poor choice in metal and coating will end someone's life and a safety recall will come but not for me. Sucks.
 

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Hi All,

I had the front subframe replaced in my 2011 Mazda 6, through the recall.
My mechanic now says the same level of corrosion appears in the rear subframe. I didn't have the chance to go under it myself and take pictures, but the thought is very disturbing.
Does anybody else have the same problem?

Thanks.
Hakan Toykoc
We are currently dealing with the same problem with the rear subframe. Front was covered under warranty. Would make sense to me that rear should be covered as well but Mazda says no. Can’t find part anywhere and Mazda has no idea when they can get it. My mechanic has checked salvage many times and the parts he keeps getting from salvage have all been bad. So I think we need to figure out how to get a Mazda recall on the rear as well.
 

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We are currently dealing with the same problem with the rear subframe. Front was covered under warranty. Would make sense to me that rear should be covered as well but Mazda says no. Can’t find part anywhere and Mazda has no idea when they can get it. My mechanic has checked salvage many times and the parts he keeps getting from salvage have all been bad. So I think we need to figure out how to get a Mazda recall on the rear as well.
I'm screwed because my car has a salvage title mazda won't warrantee it. The car was damaged in the rear passenger door, insurance said the could total because the repair was too close to the car value which was false.
 

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I just had my front sub frame replaced under warranty. Good on Mazda and my local dealership in NB Canada to do this work for me free of charge.
The rear is also a real concern as others are finding out. Why wouldn't Mazda cover both front and back as they are both decaying prematurely?
How can we make some "noise" on this issue to get Mazda to fix their/our problem?
 

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Recently, I noticed the same issue with my Mazda 6 2010. Something was hitting underneath when driving on bumpy roads making a strange noise. Then I noticed that the rear back of the car was sitting lower compared to the other side of the car.

When I took it to the mechanic, he told me that the rear subframe had to be replaced due to corrosion. Then I just decided to buy another car.

I was expecting to use the car a little bit more, since I was rustproofing it every year and washing it during the winters since I bought it used in 2018. I live in Ontario, Canada.
 

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Recently, I noticed the same issue with my Mazda 6 2010. Something was hitting underneath when driving on bumpy roads making a strange noise. Then I noticed that the rear back of the car was sitting lower compared to the other side of the car.

When I took it to the mechanic, he told me that the rear subframe had to be replaced due to corrosion. Then I just decided to buy another car.

I was expecting to use the car a little bit more, since I was rustproofing it every year and washing it during the winters since I bought it used in 2018. I live in Ontario, Canada.
It seems to be a common problem. I went to a junkyard to look for a "front" sub frame when my sons car's frame rotted out bad recently, causing the steering to be off. There was two cars there on the lot. One had the rear sub frame missing :) and the other had a brand new front sub frame still on it. I couldn't believe it !
I decided to check with Mazda first to see if they would replace it and they actually DID!! Free of charge.
Now I'm looking for a rear replacement even though I'm soaking the rear frame with rust check undercoating and it still looks ok. Not sure why Mazda isn't covering the rear frame as well? It has the same issues as the front.
Good luck....
 

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It seems to be a common problem. I went to a junkyard to look for a "front" sub frame when my sons car's frame rotted out bad recently, causing the steering to be off. There was two cars there on the lot. One had the rear sub frame missing :) and the other had a brand new front sub frame still on it. I couldn't believe it !
I decided to check with Mazda first to see if they would replace it and they actually DID!! Free of charge.
Now I'm looking for a rear replacement even though I'm soaking the rear frame with rust check undercoating and it still looks ok. Not sure why Mazda isn't covering the rear frame as well? It has the same issues as the front.
Good luck....
Has RustCheck worked out well for you? Green can or red can (if memory serves, here)? Do you brush-apply it or spray it?

It's available as an aerosol can, or in an approx. 1qt. can with a cap...
 

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It seems to be a common problem. I went to a junkyard to look for a "front" sub frame when my sons car's frame rotted out bad recently, causing the steering to be off. There was two cars there on the lot. One had the rear sub frame missing :) and the other had a brand new front sub frame still on it. I couldn't believe it !
I decided to check with Mazda first to see if they would replace it and they actually DID!! Free of charge.
Now I'm looking for a rear replacement even though I'm soaking the rear frame with rust check undercoating and it still looks ok. Not sure why Mazda isn't covering the rear frame as well? It has the same issues as the front.
Good luck....
I called a Mazda dealer today.
They confirmed that there is a recall for the front sub-frame but not for the rear one.
I also wonder why Mazda didn't include the rear frame in the recall.

Cheers...
 

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Has RustCheck worked out well for you? Green can or red can (if memory serves, here)? Do you brush-apply it or spray it?

It's available as an aerosol can, or in an approx. 1qt. can with a cap...
I use both spray cans. :)
Mainly the green cans because the material is thicker and doesn't drip as much. I would prefer to use the red cans though as the material creeps really fast, but makes a huge mess in my garage so I use those cans sparingly. I buy large pails of undercoating that I use with a spray gun every season on all my cars. The material looks and acts just like the green cans of rust check. It may be the same stuff, who knows.
I found a lot of flaking rust on the rear frame and I tried tapping with a hammer to remove what I could, then soaked it real good with a green can of rust check. It still looks "ok" but not sure how much longer it will last.
 

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I found a lot of flaking rust on the rear frame and I tried tapping with a hammer to remove what I could, then soaked it real good with a green can of rust check. It still looks "ok" but not sure how much longer it will last.
I wish I knew why some steels/steel fabrications rust in the manner you describe, i.e. by spalling-off in layers. Also, some steels, generally, rust at a ferocious rate, and others just rust at a very slow rate.

I suspect, in part, the spalling-off in chunks relates to poor-quality steel-making; flakes of impurities throughout the steel matrix that act as layers that have poor adhesion... And it is along these flakes that the steel spalls-off.... ??? Also, the alloying chemistries probably aren't rich-enough with elements that somewhat counter corrosion. Cheap product, cheap processes.

Obviously Mazda sourced the cheapest steels they could, in this situation (well, at least I believe so)... so though your attempts are heroic (and are helpful, at least to some degree) you still are left with a flawed situation.

Toyota small pickups (Tacoma?) had Dana Corp-supplied frames that performed in the same manner. There was a replacement campaign...

The third gen Mazda6's, I think their subframes and suspension member fabrications use better, cleaner steels, but the phosphating and e-coating processes are p*ss-poor in my view. I think those cars, when "newish", benefit from roughening-up their subframe- and suspension member paint systems with light abrasion (sandpaper, wire brushes), then priming with red oxide and topcoating with chassis-black enamel, then using products like RustCheck Coat&Protect... waxy, self-healing materials. And also using RustCheck Red, creeping materials, for boxed-in, otherwise inaccessible parts of the fabrication(s).
 
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