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I'm averaging about 33 MPG according to Fuelly, since my first fill-up 4800 miles ago. A little less than I hoped for, but I could probably improve the number by driving a little leaner. I'm right around 50/50 city/hwy and its usually just myself or 1 passenger. My commutes involve many hills that probably also negatively affect my economy.
If you're doing 50/50 city/Hwy you are getting 3 MPG above the Combined MPG that our cars are rated for which is 30MPG. I do 50/50 as well and am getting about 31.5MPG average but my last 10 fillups average over 33MPG though. You're getting great numbers actually.
 

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I trust basic maintenance like oil changes, differential fluid changes, etc. only to myself because then I know it was done correctly and my high end fluids didn'tnd up in the trunk, crankcase, or gearcase of some unscrupulous dealer employee's car. If I screw it up, it's on me and I'm OK owning it, but the chances of that happening are much lower than if some idiot that has no business working on cars is hired by the dealer to work on my car. I've passed on "free" dealer oil changes more than a couple of times. To me, they're not worth the risk, same with dealer "free" car washes. Nothing in this life is free.
Agreed. I never really trusted dealers. One time I caught my Honda dealer (when I had my old Civic) swiped a set of Spitfire spark plugs installed on my car (for some major service). Back then they were expensive, and the tech slapped stock NGK plugs on the engine (I was furious), even though the Spitfires were still good. The tech kept it...long story short, I got it back.

Since then, every time I go to have the car serviced (for the ones I cannot DIY), I always ask for the old part..dealer or independent shop. When it's time for the M6 for the first OCI, it's very likely I will bring my syn oil (Mobil 1 AFE 0W20) 5qt jug. Since the car only takes 4.5qts, I will ask for the near empty jug, with 0.5qt remaining. If it weren't for the dealer B2B Mazda warranty to be official and hassle free in the future...I will do my DIY stuff, including fluid changes in the M6 myself.

Ditto. Nothing in this life is free...esp dealer "free" this and that BS...there is ALWAYS a catch.
 

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Greeting all

Here's an update on my 2014 Touring 6. I reset the onboard computer 'avg MPG' at about the 200 mile mark.

Now with 5100 miles on my 6 the onboard computer is indicating 37.5 MPG avg for miles 200-5100. I do mostly highway driving in the 70+ mph range. I don't hot rod the car when driving on surface streets. :p

I'm VERY pleased with the overall fuel economy and drivability of this Mazda 6. Oh, I use mid grade (89) fuel.

cheers
JohnG
 

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No, you're not. My MPG is a mirror image of yours. I don't baby the car, as the MPG's are not appreciably improved by driving conservatively hoping for better fuel economy. Once the car is at operating temp, getting up to 40-45 mph as quickly as possible without dogging the car yields the same and even better results for me. Short city trips while the car is still cold kills my MPG's, period. I've done some highway runs specifically to see if fuel economy improves accordingly, and it does. The engine will break-in over time and your fuel economy will improve if you maintain the car and your tire pressure. Some cars of the same make/model do better than others, as no two cars are exactly alike. It seems to be luck of the draw; however, the overriding factor is driving style (i.e. coasting to red lights vs. staying on the accelerator right up to the pont where braking is imminent-basically anticipating what's ahead) and the type of trips that comprise your tankful. I've always had a difficult time meeting EPA estimates in all my drives. The common denominator has to be me, and not so much the car.

I'll probably have the car looked over at some point, but sometimes you can't fix what isn't broken, and short of stored hard OBDI codes or an obvious failure, I doubt anything will come of it. I'm never eager to turn my keys over to any dealer service department unless (1) I have some level of confidence that a competent master tech will be working on the car, and (2) it's absolutely necessary (either the repair is warrantable or over my skill level and shop/tool resources are not sufficient for the job). I trust basic maintenance like oil changes, differential fluid changes, etc. only to myself because then I know it was done correctly and my high end fluids didn't end up in the trunk, crankcase, or gearcase of some unscrupulous dealer employee's car. If I screw it up, it's on me and I'm OK owning it, but the chances of that happening are much lower than if some idiot that has no business working on cars is hired by the dealer to work on my car. I've passed on "free" dealer oil changes more than a couple of times. To me, they're not worth the risk, same with dealer "free" car washes. Nothing in this life is free.

Give yourself and the car a break and see what happens, especially if there's nothing obviously wrong other than your expectation or the roads and driving style that you incur. That, or take it into service and see what happens.
Thanks for the reply. I have noticed the same thing, once I get on a highway it goes up and and I try my best to warm up the car before I drive for about 5 mins.
I thought the break in period would be shorter, I just had my first oil change and I'm on ~4800 miles now.
Hopefully it gets better.
 

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I have recently noticed quite a drop in my MPG. I had been averaging about 35-36mpg for the first 10000 miles on the car (I drive about 450 miles, 90% highway a week) and the last 2500 miles or so, I am only averaging 33mpg. I have done 2 oil changes already, one at 5k and another at 11k. Not sure what is going on, not driving any different. Could the cold weather be a factor, or have they kicked in the winter blends already? It is making me crazy seeing my average so low compared to what I was getting.

Also OT but we have finally had some freezing days, and the noise has been awful, sounds like my back window is going to pop out!
 

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My mileage seems to be down lately, as well. Problem I think is I drive a number of short trips 2-4 miles and even though I put on highway miles at about 50% overall it seems the mileage drops quickly on the ave. mileage readout on the short trips but moves up more slowly on the longer highway trips. Weather is cooler, but not that cold. Currently averaging around 29-30 mpg per tank with this 50-50 mix. I know these short trips kill gas mileage, but shouldn't those highway miles keep the number above 30?
 

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I have recently noticed quite a drop in my MPG. I had been averaging about 35-36mpg for the first 10000 miles on the car (I drive about 450 miles, 90% highway a week) and the last 2500 miles or so, I am only averaging 33mpg. I have done 2 oil changes already, one at 5k and another at 11k. Not sure what is going on, not driving any different. Could the cold weather be a factor, or have they kicked in the winter blends already? It is making me crazy seeing my average so low compared to what I was getting.

Also OT but we have finally had some freezing days, and the noise has been awful, sounds like my back window is going to pop out!
Cold weather for sure affects MPG and that is exactly why you're seeing lower numbers as am I :). Yes, some stations have started with the winter blend. starting to see gas prices at $2.99 a gallon by me in East Brunswick. Been a long time since I saw that.

I've got used to the initial startup of the SkyActive. Only last for about 20 seconds at most until the RPM drops to around 1K, then I put in gear and move out.
 

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I have noticed the same thing, once I get on a highway it goes up and and I try my best to warm up the car before I drive for about 5 mins.
I'm not sure a 5 minute warm-up will help because that simply burns fuel without getting any mileagee at all. Once the initial one minute of Skyactiv "surge" dies down (about 60 seconds), just start your trip conservatiely until the car reaches operating temp. If yoy just sit there an additional 4 minutes waiting for a more complete warm-up, don't be surprised if your MPG's suffer even more. Conservatively going about your trip after waiting out the first minute of idle time will not hurt your engine, as long as you don't go wide open throttle or jack-rabbit starts from a red light prior to reaching operating temp.
 

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I have 2 2006 Mazda's. A Grandsport I4 and a Speed6 .I check mileage all the time, its like a habit I have. When I use Shell gas, I always get worst mileage--- about 4 mpg less. I generally use Chevron or Citgo gas. Shell is really close so in a pinch I get gas there. Yesterday I had to make a 200 mile trip (all highway). Just as a sanity check I filled up with Shell gas , maybe Im wrong about the mileage . Filled up again after the trip and my mileage is down 4-5 mpg ? Car runs fine. The only thing I can think of is that there is something in this gas, thats not in the other gas--- maybe more grain alcohol --- but its really less mpg. Thanks Oldvet
 

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I'm not sure a 5 minute warm-up will help because that simply burns fuel without getting any mileagee at all. Once the initial one minute of Skyactiv "surge" dies down (about 60 seconds), just start your trip conservatiely until the car reaches operating temp. If yoy just sit there an additional 4 minutes waiting for a more complete warm-up, don't be surprised if your MPG's suffer even more. Conservatively going about your trip after waiting out the first minute of idle time will not hurt your engine, as long as you don't go wide open throttle or jack-rabbit starts from a red light prior to reaching operating temp.
I actually tried that, and guess what the blue temp. light goes away faster now. I just wait for the sky active surge dies down and drive. Works better than warming up the car for minutes. THanks
 

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Another 38mpg week (38.77mpg to be exact, combined) that ended today. Manual computation. 65%fwy/35%city of aggressive, spirited 1st-2nd gear city driving, esp 3rd-5th gear freeways. 75-85mph early mornings to work, 65-75mph end of work days, 40mi/day. Warm ups up to 3min (until blue temp indicators out), each start ups (also to warm 1.75qt trans fluid). Still on factory oil fill. 5,149mi on the clock. 38psi cold tires, both ends.
 

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Another 38mpg week (38.77mpg to be exact, combined) that ended today. Manual computation. 65%fwy/35%city of aggressive, spirited 1st-2nd gear city driving, esp 3rd-5th gear freeways. 75-85mph early mornings to work, 65-75mph end of work days, 40mi/day. Warm ups up to 3min (until blue temp indicators out), each start ups (also to warm 1.75qt trans fluid). Still on factory oil fill. 5,149mi on the clock. 38psi cold tires, both ends.
Awesome numbers.... I am at 35.1 on this tank so far. I just passed 2k, Amazing the MPG's this car produces IMO. :p
 

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With 6MT, this car is a real fun to drive...and gets great fuel economy (and I'm not even trying).:lol: This car begs to be driven fast. The faster I drive this thing, the better it gets on FE (average mpg readout goes up vs slower fwy drive).

It's having cake and eating it too. :D
 

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Another 38mpg week (38.77mpg to be exact, combined) that ended today. Manual computation. 65%fwy/35%city of aggressive, spirited 1st-2nd gear city driving, esp 3rd-5th gear freeways. 75-85mph early mornings to work, 65-75mph end of work days, 40mi/day. Warm ups up to 3min (until blue temp indicators out), each start ups (also to warm 1.75qt trans fluid). Still on factory oil fill. 5,149mi on the clock. 38psi cold tires, both ends.
wait.. 3 minutes warming up and your blue light goes out? Is that 3 minutes driving or idling? I can let mine idle for 30 minutes and the blue light is still on when I get in the car! LOL

Impressive MPG no doubt.. your commute is similiar to mine it sounds like, but your FE is significantly better. I've also noticed what you mention later, it seems BETTER FE is attained when driving a bit more spirited. When I TRY to get good MPG now I get worse, when I just drive, I get better (33 vs 36) FWIW my car should be mostly broken in at this point and is on a fresh 2nd oil change and new air filter (15K miles). Also interesting, and monitor yours for me as well if you don't mind. I noticed a significant dive in FE around 6200 miles, and promptly changed the factory fill at 6400 due to this, MPG came right back up. This car does NOT seem to like old oil LOL
 

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wait.. 3 minutes warming up and your blue light goes out? Is that 3 minutes driving or idling? I can let mine idle for 30 minutes and the blue light is still on when I get in the car! LOL

Impressive MPG no doubt.. your commute is similiar to mine it sounds like, but your FE is significantly better. I've also noticed what you mention later, it seems BETTER FE is attained when driving a bit more spirited. When I TRY to get good MPG now I get worse, when I just drive, I get better (33 vs 36) FWIW my car should be mostly broken in at this point and is on a fresh 2nd oil change and new air filter (15K miles). Also interesting, and monitor yours for me as well if you don't mind. I noticed a significant dive in FE around 6200 miles, and promptly changed the factory fill at 6400 due to this, MPG came right back up. This car does NOT seem to like old oil LOL
That is warm up idling. From the time I start the engine inside the garage, let revs level off to 700rpm, reverse/backing out, then work stuff/etc to load..and finally up till releasing the handbrake, first gear..take-off! (blue light off/3mins tops)

I was running the factory fill up until this morning @ exactly 5,200mi from dealer 1st OCI and brought my own Mobil 1 AFE 0W20. I was so pissed when the idiot tech overfilled the crank case with a full 5qt jug, when a oil and filter replacement calls for 4.8qts tops (per manual). Clueless service advisor says "the Mazda 6 2.0L :rolleyes: only takes less than 5qts (as in 4.8qts), your 2.5L engine takes a full 5." As usual, the incompetence of dealer and service dept is unparalleled. :banghead:

Luckily, I have an oil boy/extractor (from the old German DIY oil change days) and sucked up the excess overfill from my garage. By sheer guesstimate, upon pulling out the flexible extractor tube..Viola! Oil level was spot on the max indicator dipstick pinhole.

When I drove the car going home for 34mi (now @ 5,234mi), the Mobil 1 seems more viscous to the engine and somewhat a "sliver" slow, based on my butt dyno. Could be imagining it. Though for sure, the engine is much quieter now, less direct injection "fracas"...sounds just like the 1st hundred miles of the car.

Oh btw, I poured nearly a bottle (<300mL) of Liqui Moly MoS2 to the 4.8qts (50mL/qt) for some molybdenum and boron bump on the Mobil 1 0W20...Let's see if my gas mileage improves still, if not maintain it.
 

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Garage.. I think that's the key. I can get the blue light to go off after about 8-10 minutes idle time now (yet the dealer says that all systems checked ok on the AWUS and there was nothing wrong, but magically it's worked ever since that visit, down to that annoying whistle that was never there before.. I'll take the whistle!) Note that it's COLDER since that visit (30* mornings) where-as I had trouble on 40 and 50* days with the car not warming up.

AS for MPG right now I'm running about 33MPG. Dis-appointing to me no doubt, but I expect winter MPG to be significantly lower, and only a 1MPG hit off of the 34 I had been seeing (VERY DISAPPOINTING) is not a big deal.

FWIW with the castrol edge 0-20oe (I think -.-) in my car, it feels peppier than ever. That could just as well be the extra cold weather or the fact that I've been primarily driving the 6 and not flip-flopping the cars LOL. Granted at the point I can get basically 30MPG out of any of the three on the same drive driving the same way (read MUCH MORE AGGRESSIVELY from stops IN THE FORMULA and MX-5).. it's hard to stick to the 6 everyday -.-. Now that the heat is working A1 and it heats up as fast as the miata though it's not as big of a deal :p
 

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Garage.. I think that's the key. I can get the blue light to go off after about 8-10 minutes idle time now (yet the dealer says that all systems checked ok on the AWUS and there was nothing wrong, but magically it's worked ever since that visit, down to that annoying whistle that was never there before.. I'll take the whistle!) Note that it's COLDER since that visit (30* mornings) where-as I had trouble on 40 and 50* days with the car not warming up.

AS for MPG right now I'm running about 33MPG. Dis-appointing to me no doubt, but I expect winter MPG to be significantly lower, and only a 1MPG hit off of the 34 I had been seeing (VERY DISAPPOINTING) is not a big deal.

FWIW with the castrol edge 0-20oe (I think -.-) in my car, it feels peppier than ever. That could just as well be the extra cold weather or the fact that I've been primarily driving the 6 and not flip-flopping the cars LOL. Granted at the point I can get basically 30MPG out of any of the three on the same drive driving the same way (read MUCH MORE AGGRESSIVELY from stops IN THE FORMULA and MX-5).. it's hard to stick to the 6 everyday -.-. Now that the heat is working A1 and it heats up as fast as the miata though it's not as big of a deal :p
Definitely, keeping the car (I always) inside the garage helps alot, along with the residual heat from the engine. It helps keeping things "cozy". Also, the "Mediterranean" climate of LA helps..so no temp extremes here. The climate..just right.

MPG does indeed suffer esp in very cold weather. The time it takes to warm up your car (if parked outside), winter blend gas, dense cold air (increases drag while driving), freezing wind, snow, running the heater/ac compressor combo on (to keep things inside just right), etc can contribute to the not so ideal fuel economy.

Btw, I've read in BITOG that dealer Castrol Edge 0W20 flows the easiest (kinematic viscosity at 40*C = 35.6; nearest to Mazda Moly 0W20 @ 35.0) compared to these other 0W20 in the linky below. Very ideal for the frigid snowbelt. Though this oil has titanium as it's anti friction additive (very few avaliable syn oils use this), instead of molybdenum (value on this comparison chart link, which is barely to near none).

Castrol Edge 0W-20 - Bob Is The Oil Guy

After my Mobil 1 oil change with Liqui Moly MoS2, the engine is so quiet like never before. Quite honestly, it is even quieter than when it was in the first hundred or so miles (back then, even on day 1 upon picking up the car from the dealership, I could hear loud direct injection ticking everytime..evident up until arrival at dealership yesterday, for said 1st OCI). But now, little to no direct injection noise, esp sitting/listening from the inside. Outside observation while idling, the engine noise is very subdued. Sounds like a different car. Btw, LM MoS2 is well known to quiet an engine, on top of improvements in MPG and reduced engine wear (due to slippery molybdenum disulfide).

As the miles rack up with this M1 0W20/MoS2 combo fill..I'll update often on the MPG.
 

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After my Mobil 1 oil change with Liqui Moly MoS2, the engine is so quiet like never before. Quite honestly, it is even quieter than when it was in the first hundred or so miles (back then, even on day 1 upon picking up the car from the dealership, I could hear loud direct injection ticking everytime..evident up until arrival at dealership yesterday, for said 1st OCI). But now, little to no direct injection noise, esp sitting/listening from the inside. Outside observation while idling, the engine noise is very subdued. Sounds like a different car. Btw, LM MoS2 is well known to quiet an engine, on top of improvements in MPG and reduced engine wear (due to slippery molybdenum disulfide).

As the miles rack up with this M1 0W20/MoS2 combo fill..I'll update often on the MPG.
I'm going to have to try to get my hands on some of that LM MoS2 for my next OCI.. or maybe to top off onto this one. The engine is pretty noisy to me from the outside. Inside it's un-noticeable. I always look at it like.. "When are you gonna break down sounding like that!?", knowings it's just part of the DI, but it's a noisier (engine at least) than my V8 with an exhaust leak at the header LOL. I'm also curious if the slightly thicker M1 has anything to do with quietening things down some, so adding the moly to the edge might be an interesting test :D


Winter fuel mixes.. don't have to tell me twice.. BS! LOL. I remember once this year I got to run the formula with summer fuel on a nice blustery 40* day... she was HAPPY. I filled up back on the way home and it was like I'd added 100lbs to the car (no.. I did not add 15 gallons LOL)
 

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I'm also curious if the slightly thicker M1 has anything to do with quietening things down some, so adding the moly to the edge might be an interesting test :D
On the 1st 34 mi, I did notice the car was quieter (on new motor oil, almost always the case) with this slightly thicker AFE 0W20. But I remember the DI tapping was still there, albeit very muffled or can be heard very slightly. This was without the LM MoS2 then, when the oil was overfilled (no thanks to the incompetence of the Mazda tech) early Vets Day.

Fast forward (overfill taken out, + LM MoS2). With the usual driving routine, I got home yesterday from work. When I alighted from the car on the driveway (to get snail mail) and left the engine idling, my reaction was "Wow!". The engine ruckus of which I'm used to it (being a DI engine) was gone. I tried to listen closely from the outside a little for over a minute..I cannot hear the DI tapping at all. The usual engine running sound you can hear was still there, of course (inside and out). But the one sure thing very noticeable and am quite positive on it, the DI tapping so common/notable on this engine type (regardless of car brand) was gone.
 

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Many members are talking about different engine oils to use to improve mileage which is fine. But few talk about the brand of gasoline they use. I posted recently about getting much less mileage with Shell gas. On numerous occasions Ive checked Shell and its much less. I know we have been told by numerous agencies that gas is gas ---thats it, the cheapest gas is the best gas. With the introduction of the direct injection engines it adds many additional questions. For those of use who trade cars every 3-4 years, maybe its not a problem. At the Walmart gas station down the road you see a large percentage of high end cars, 45k-75k price range filling up. A friend of mine works there , and he states customers say " Im only leasing , let the next guy worry about it, or this is the same as any gas --- they save 2-3 cents a gallon . This is fine. What Im saying is the BRAND of gas you buy makes a difference. Before you disagree , do your homework . Thanks Oldvet
 
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